M I  \  1 1 1 . ! !  i :  i  r  t . ; '  I  i » ! 


it  it  im    Mi 


GIFT    OF 
JANE  K.SATHER 


i 


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MATTHEW  CALBRAITH  PERRY.  A  Typical  American 
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JAPAN:    IN    HISTORY,    FOLK-LORE,    AND    ART.     In 

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HOUGHTON,   MIFFLIN   AND   COMPANY, 
Boston  and  New  York. 


TOWNSEND  HARRIS 

FIRST    AMERICAN     ENVOY    IN 
JAPAN 


BY 


WILLIAM  ELLIOT  GR1FF1S 


BOSTON    AND    NEW   YORK 
HOUGHTON,  MIFFLIN  AND   COMPANY 

1895 


.3 


/^W^um 


Copyright,  1895, 
By  WILLIAM  ELLIOT  GRIFFIS. 

All  rights  reserved. 


The  Riverside  Press,  Cambridge,  Mass.,  U.  S.  A. 
Electrotyped  and  Printed  by  H.  O.  Houghton  &  Co. 


TO 

MISS  BESSIE  HARRIS 

the  beloved  niece  and  executor  of  the  will 

of  him  whom  the  japanese  call 

"our  benefactor" 


-&7716- 


PREFACE. 


Japan's  re-birth,  in  this  our  day,  challenges 
the  attention  of  the  historian  and  philosopher.  In 
the  story  as  told  from  the  outside  by  foreigners, 
there  is  a  great  blank  between  Commodore  Perry 
and  Lord  Elgin.  Especially  in  the  works  of  Eng- 
lish writers  are  there  profound  ignorance  and  mis- 
apprehension of  what  Mr.  Townsend  Harris  did. 
This  volume  aims  to  fill  a  gap  in  history. 

The  opening  of  the  long-sealed  Empire  of  Japan 
to  foreign  trade  and  commerce  was  a  decisive  event 
in  the  history  of  Eastern  Asia  and  of  the  world. 
For  such  a  work,  the  American  envoy  was  prepared 
as  few  men  could  have  been.  After  fourteen  years 
in  a  village  in  the  Empire  State,  thirty-two  in 
the  metropolis  of  the  continent,  six  on  the  Pacific 
Ocean  and  in  far-Oriental  lands,  Townsend  Harris, 
when  fifty-two  years  of  age,  became,  like  the  great 
Yoritomo,  a  lonely  dweller  in  rocky  Idzu.  There 
both  were  exiles,  and  thence  both  emerged  victo- 
rious to  re-make  Japan.     This  they  did,  in  each 


vi  PBEFACE. 

case,  by  drawing  the  centre  of  government  from 
Kioto  to  the  region  of  Yedo  Bay.  Here,  however, 
in  the  perspective  of  history,  the  parallel  ends,  and 
dissolves  into  contrasts.  The  lord  of  Kamakura, 
becoming  the  first  Shogun,  gradually  but  surely 
degraded  the  Emperor.  He  made  his  camp  the 
substance,  and  the  throne  a  shadow.  The  Amer- 
ican envoy,  on  the  contrary,  may  in  a  large  sense 
be  called  the  real  overthrower  of  "Tyeoonism,"  the 
feudal  system,  and  military  rule,  and  the  restorer 
of  national  unity.  He  ushered  in  Dai  Nippon's 
new  career.  Of  the  powerful  influence  of  his 
actions  upon  the  development  of  the  representa- 
tive institutions  now  established  in  Japan,  there  can 
be  no  doubt  whatever.  In  the  making  of  that 
new  kind  of  Asiatic  state  and  man  that  have  sur- 
prised Europe,  Townsend  Harris  was  a  potency 
acknowledged  by  none  more  than  the  Japanese 
themselves.  He  was  the  greatest  of  the  foreign 
diplomatists.  He  was  the  recognized  teacher  of 
a  sensitive  people,  who  call  him  "the  nation's 
friend." 

Besides  living  for  nearly  four  years  either  on  the 
spot  or  in  the  region  of  Mr.  Harris's  labors,  I  had 
the  honor  of  knowing  him  personally,  and  of  en- 
joying his  friendship,  from  1874  to  1878.  Once, 
shortly  after  the  time  of  the  German  Count  Von 


PREFACE.  vii 

Arnhem's  severe  treatment  at  the  hands  of  Bis- 
marck, I  asked  him  whether  he  had  kept  a  record 
of  his  experiences  in  Japan,  and  would  give  it  to 
the  world.  His  answer,  after  reference  to  the 
danger  of  prematurely  exposing  state  secrets,  was, 
"Not  while  I  am  living."  He  told  his  intimate 
friends,  Judge  C.  P.  Daly  and  General  George  "W. 
Cullum,  that  he  should  publish  nothing  during  his 
lifetime,  but  that  he  had  a  journal  which  he  should 
deposit  in  either  the  Geographical  or  the  Historical 
Society  of  New  York,  that  might  be  referred  to 
after  his  death.  Four  years  ago,  this  journal,  con- 
tained in  five  small  volumes,  his  private  letter- 
books  and  letters,  were  placed  for  editing  and  pub- 
lication in  the  hands  of  the  writer  by  his  niece, 
Miss  Bessie  Harris,  who  also  administered  upon 
his  estate. 

This  journal  bears  all  the  marks  of  records 
made  day  by  day  and  hour  by  hour,  contempora- 
neous with  the  scenes  and  feelings  described,  but 
none  whatever  of  any  afterthought.  Erasures,  al- 
teration, or  interlineation  in  the  text  are  absent. 
All  the  more,  on  this  account,  has  the  editor  been 
scrupulously  careful  to  omit  or  suppress  nothing  of 
any  political  or  historical  value.  Even  the  italics 
made  by  Mr.  Harris  are  reproduced,  but  the  modern 
standard  system  of  transliterating  Japanese  names 


viii  PREFACE. 

and  words  has  been  used.  What  have  been  omitted 
are  observations  on  the  weather  and  upon  health, 
purely  private  and  domestic  references,  repetitions, 
corrections,  guesses  at  size,  measurements,  and  such 
minor  matters.  The  main  narrative,  which  culmi- 
nated in  the  treaty  already  made  and  signed  before 
a  man-of-war  appeared  on  the  scene,  has  not  been 
modified. 

The  biographical  sketch  and  concluding  chapters 
are  based  on  matter  furnished  in  Mr.  Harris's  let- 
ters or  by  his  friends,  and  upon  the  carefully  sifted 
data  in  Japanese  and  foreign  books  and  documents. 
I  wish  to  mention  with  thanks  the  names  of  all 
those  who  have  aided  me,  —  Judge  C.  P.  Daly, 
president  of  the  American  Geographical  Society; 
General  George  W.  CuUum,  U.  S.  A. ;  Dr.  W.  A. 
P.  Martin,  of  Peking,  China ;  Dr.  J.  C.  Hepburn 
and  Rev.  S.  R.  Brown,  D.  D. ;  Mr.  Tsuda  Sen, 
of  Tokio;  Rev.  J.  Takasugi;  Professor  Brander 
Matthews,  of  Columbia  College,  New  York ;  Mrs. 
James  Sherrill  and  Mr.  John  Dwyer,  of  Sandy 
Hill,  N.  Y. ;  and  last  and  most  of  all,  Miss  Bessie 
Harris,  the  custodian  of  Mr.  Harris's  papers. 

In  the  foot-notes,  there  are  several  abbreviations. 
The  letters  T.  A.  S.  J.  signify  "  Transactions  of  the 
Asiatic  Society  of  Japan ;  "  T.  J.,  Professor  Cham- 
berlain's "  Things  Japanese ;  "  M.  E.,  "  The  Mi- 


PREFACE.  ix 

kado's  Empire ; "  M.  C.  P.  (Life  of  Commodore) 
"  Matthew  Calbraith  Perry,"  etc. 

In  this  year  following  the  revision  of  our  treaty 
with  Japan  (expected  at  the  time  of  its  signature 
by  Mr.  Harris  to  take  place  in  1872),  when  justice 
has  been  meted  out  to  a  friendly  nation  after 
more  than  twenty  years  of  wrong  done  her,  the 
publication  of  this  journal  seems  appropriate  and 
auspicious. 

W.  E.  G. 

Ithaca,  N.  Y.,  May  24, 1895. 


CONTENTS. 


PART  I. 
PREPARATION  FOR  WORK  IN  JAPAN. 

PAGE 

I.  Ancestry,  Boyhood,  and  Life  in  New  York  3 

II.  Experiences  in  Oriental  Lands  and  Seas  .    .  14 

PART  II. 
MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

III.  Housekeeping  in  Shimoda 33 

IV.  Autumn  Experiences  in  Japan 58 

V.  The  Visit  of  the  Russians 84 

VI.  The  First  Skirmish  of  a  Long  Battle      .     .  97 
VII.   [The   Political  Situation.  —  A    Chapter    of 

Explanation] 115 

VIII.  Slow  but  Sure  Progress 123 

IX.  A  Lonely  Exile. — The  President's  Letter  144 

X.  Visit  of  the  Portsmouth. — The  First  Victory  167 

XL  The  Triumphal  Journey  to  Yedo      ....  182 

XII.  The  American  Envoy's  Audience  of  the  ShO-  e 

gun 29§- 

XIII.  Preliminaries  to  the  Treaty-Making  .    .    .  237 

XIV.  The  Hermits  instructed  in  Modern  World- 

Ld7e 253 

XV.  The  Struggle  for  the  Opening  of  the  Ports  278 


xii  CONTENTS. 

PART  III. 

SUCCESS,  REPOSE,  AND  HONORS. 

XVI.  Japan  opened  to  the  World 311 

XVII.  Home  Again. — Social  Joys. — Peaceful  End.    326 
XVIH.  Japan  at  the  End  of  the  Century  ....    334 


PAKT  I. 

PREPARATION  FOR  WORK  IN  JAPAN. 


From  this  window  I  look  on  Fuji  San, 
White  with  the  snows  of  a  thousand  years ; 
To  my  gates  ships  will  come  from  the  far  East 
Ten  thousand  miles. 
Stanza  attributed  to  Ota  do  Kuan,  founder  of  Yedo,  tl487. 

It  was  the  whale  that  emancipated  fishermen  and  led  them 
afar.  It  led  them  onward  and  onward  still,  until  they  found  it, 
after  having  almost  unconsciously  passed  from  one  world  to  the 
other.  Michelet. 

The  narrow  cleft  in  the  sealed  door  of  Japan,  into  which  Perry 
drove  his  wedge  of  diplomacy,  was  the  rescue  of  American  sailors. 

Nitobe. 

The  mission  of  Perry  was  that  of  a  pioneer ;  that  of  Harris,  of 
a  sower.  The  duty  of  one  was  to  force  a  barred  door  open ;  that 
of  the  other  was  to  keep  it  so.  Nitobe. 

In  the  work  of  young  Ronald  McDonald,  born  at  Astoria,  Ore- 
gon, a  seaman  from  an  American  whaler,  the  Plymouth,  who 
in  1848  was  set  to  work  by  the  Japanese  at  Nagasaki  to  teach 
English,  "  we  trace  a  promise  of  American  educational  activity  in 
Japan."  Nitobe. 

McDonald,  before  his  release,  was  requested  by  the  Japanese 
to  describe  the  relative  rank  of  the  commander  of  the  Preble,  by 
counting  down  in  the  order  of  succession  from  the  highest  chief 
in  the  United  States.  .  .  .  He  began  with  the  people. 

HlLDKETH. 

If  the  tutorship  of  the  United  States  in  Japan  is  to  be  suc- 
cessful, it  must  be  based  on  deeper  and  broader  principles  of  phi- 
lanthropy than  have  heretofore  been  practiced  in  the  intercourse 
of  nations  —  a  philanthropy  which  shall  recognize  not  merely  the 
distinction  of  strength  and  power  between  nations,  but  the  duties 
of  magnanimity,  moderation,  and  humanity.  Seward. 


CHAPTER  I. 

ANCESTRY,   BOYHOOD,   AND  LIFE  IN  NEW  YORK. 

In  the  composite  American  stock,  which  has 
made  the  United  States  a  new  and  better  Europe, 
the  Welsh  element  is  not  the  least  potent.  The 
ancestors  of  Townsend  Harris  were  Welshmen  who 
came  to  America  with  Roger  Williams,  and  settled 
in  Massachusetts.  Later  generations  emigrated  to 
Ulster  County,  in  the  State  of  New  York.  Both 
of  the  grandfathers  of  Townsend  Harris,  Gilbert 
Harris  and  John  Watson,  served  as  officers  in  the 
Continental  Army  under  Gates.  John  Watson, 
his  mother's  father,  was  in  the  battle  of  Saratoga, 
in  which  his  British  cousin,  General  Fraser,  fell. 

Gilbert  Harris  married  Thankful  Townsend, 
whose  maiden  name  the  future  envoy  to  Japan 
bore,  and  who  was  a  woman  of  strong  character. 
Her  home  was  in  a  village  near  Ticonderoga,  and 
here  she  reared  her  seven  children,  in  the  midst  of 
the  alarms  and  uncertainties  of  the  Revolutionary 
War.  When  John  Burgoyne,  general  and  drama- 
tist, with  a  large  British,  Indian,  and  Hessian  army, 
made  his  descent  from  Canada  to  expected  victory 
but  to  actual  surrender,  he  captured  Ticonderoga. 


4         PREPARATION  FOR   WORK  IN  JAPAN. 

In  the^  sedond  war  with  Great  Britain,  this  same 
;  c£iate*iet>  b£  our/country  was  ravaged.  Some  of  the 
British  forces,  whether  red  or  white  is  not  known, 
set  fire  to  the  Harris  home.  This  act  of  barbar- 
ity was  never  forgotten  or  forgiven  by  Thankful, 
whose  three  sons  were  Eraser,  Jonathan,  and 
Townsend. 

Jonathan  Harris  married  and  settled  at  Sandy 
Hill,  Washington  County,  N.  Y.  He  was  a  hatter, 
and  the  magistrate  of  the  village.  He  introduced 
the  grafting  of  fruit-trees  into  his  neighborhood. 
He  had  six  children.  Of  his  five  sons,  Townsend, 
the  future  treaty-maker,  was  the  youngest,  and  was 
born  October  3,  1804.  The  house  in  which  he 
was  born,  and  to  which  his  memory  fondly  reverted 
during  his  lonely  days  in  Japan,  was  burned  down 
in  1876.  Both  his  parents  were  persons  of  intelli- 
gence and  vigor,  and  they  fostered  his  early  love  of 
books  and  his  taste  for  reading  and  study.  From 
infancy  to  mature  life  his  mother  was  his  chief 
educator.  All  the  regular  schooling  which  Town- 
send  Harris  ever  received  was  at  the  village  pri- 
mary school  and  academy.  All  his  life  Mr.  Harris 
regretted  his  lack  of  a  university  training.  His 
grandmother  Thankful,  whose  home  had  been  re- 
duced to  ashes,  taught  him  "  to  tell  the  truth,  fear 
God,  and  hate  the  British,"  and  all  three  things  he 
did  all  his  life.  As  boy  and  as  man,  Townsend 
Harris  would  never  use  a  Sheffield  knife  or  wear 


ANCESTRY,  AND  LIFE  IN  NEW  YORK.         5 

English  cloth.  Fastidiously  neat  as  he  always  was 
in  his  dress,  he  was  careful  that  his  garments  were 
made  of  French  cloth. 

When  but  thirteen  years  old,  in  1817,  Townsend 
was  taken  by  his  father  to  New  York,  to  begin  his 
business  career  in  a  dry-goods  store.  Living  in  the 
home  of  his  employer  and  his  father's  friend,  the 
bright,  quick-witted,  and  obliging  boy  soon  became 
a  favorite  with  all  the  family.  A  few  years  later,  his 
father  and  older  brother  having  come  to  New  York, 
Townsend  joined  with  them  in  the  business  of 
importing  china  and  earthenware.  At  this  Town- 
send  Harris  continued  until  leaving  the  United 
States  in  1849.  In  the  great  fire  of  1835,  the 
crockery  store  had  to  be  blown  up  with  gunpowder 
to  stop  the  advance  of  the  flames.  In  the  reorgani- 
zation of  business  the  new  firm  was  that  of  John 
and  Townsend  Harris. 

Trade,  however,  was  not  the  law  of  Townsend 
Harris's  life,  but  its  necessity  only,  and  the  chosen 
means  to  a  higher  end.  Culture  was  his  dominant 
purpose.  He  read  constantly,  critically,  and  wisely 
in  the  best  literatures,  and  observed  and  studied 
men  and  things.  He  learned  the  French,  Spanish, 
and  Italian  languages.  He  had  access  to  the  best 
libraries,  and  his  memory,  naturally  retentive,  was 
trained  to  system.  His  power  of  prompt  recollec- 
tion was  noteworthy.  Living  for  several  years 
with  his  mother  in  one  home  with  his  orphaned 


6         PREPARATION  FOR   WORK  IN  JAPAN. 

nieces,  he  guided  their  reading  and  studies  and 
taught  them  Spanish  phrases. 

Once,  Mr.  Harris,  "  like  a  Dutch  uncle,"  scolded 
the  young  ladies  for  reading  novels,  which  he  uncer- 
emoniously seized  and  threw  into  the  fire.  Scarcely, 
however,  were  the  tears  of  his  sorrowful  nieces 
dried,  than  their  Uncle  Townsend  presented  them 
with  seventy  handsome  volumes  of  history,  biogra- 
phy, travels,  and  standard  works  by  well-known 
women  authors,  such  as  Hannah  More,  Mrs.  Opie, 
Maria  Edgeworth,  and  others. 

The  mother  of  Townsend  Harris  was  a  stately 
lady  of  keen  intellect  and  engaging  manners.  She 
was  the  teacher  and  inspirer  of  her  youngest  son 
from  his  cradle  days  even  until  her  death.  The 
sitting  and  dining  rooms  were  well  furnished  with 
the  best  books  of  reference.  Conversation  at  the 
dinner-table  was  bright  and  suggestive,  and  Town- 
send  Harris  made  it  his  pleasurable  habit  of  talk- 
ing with  his  mother  about  the  books  he  had  read. 

The  son  delighted  to  engage  the  mother  in  argu- 
ment, for  in  her  clear  views  and  strong  convictions 
she  was  of  the  Federalist  or  Whig  school,  while  he 
was  an  ardent  Democrat.  She  believed  in  a  strong 
central  government,  and  in  wise  restraint  of  pop- 
ular sentiment,  while  he  emphasized  local  freedom 
and  the  easily  expressed  will  of  the  people.  She 
looked  with  no  favor  but  rather  with  dread  upon 
the  theories  of  democracy.    Much  of  her  horror  had 


ANCESTBY,  AND  LIFE  IN  NEW  YORK.         7 

been  caused  by  the  dreadful  scenes  of  the  French 
Eevolution,  which  were  an  abuse  of  liberty.  De- 
mocratic ideas,  in  her  opinion,  tended  to  license. 
Often  did  she  warn  her  son  of  what  might  be  the 
result  should  democratic  rule  gain  the  ascendancy 
in  our  country.  She  saw  into  the  century  ahead. 
She  would  often  say,  "My  son,  you  do  not  look 
far  enough  into  the  future."  Opposed  to  the  idea 
of  a  property  qualification  for  voters,  Mr.  Harris 
labored  to  change  the  laws  upon  this  point.  His 
mother  vigorously  opposed  him,  warning  him  that 
he  might  live  to  see  the  day  when  he  would  regret 
the  freedom  given  to  ignorant  emigrants.  Hold- 
ing closely  to  her  convictions,  she  never  allowed 
her  son's  witticisms  to  upset  her  sober  reasonings. 

Townsend  Harris's  love  and  honor  to  his  mother 
were  dominant  passions.  He  was  extremely  sensi- 
tive to  her  regard  and  love.  She  was  his  greatest 
teacher.  So  strong  was  this  feeling  that  his  bro- 
ther John  could  never  prevail  upon  him  to  take 
his  place  and  go  to  England  on  business.  He 
never  left  his  mother  but  once,  for  a  trip  to  Ohio, 
to  make  which  was  in  those  days  considered  a  great 
enterprise.  She  lived  to  be  eighty-three  years  old. 
She  kept  her  wonderful  memory  and  reasoning 
powers  undimmed  until  within  three  weeks  of  her 
death. 

Townsend  Harris  never  married.  Why  he  did 
not  was  a  secret  locked  in  his  own  breast,  which 


8         PREPARATION  FOR   WORK  IN  JAPAN. 

has  perished  with  him.  It  may  be  that  seeing  in 
his  mother  so  exalted  an  ideal,  and  finding  in  her 
so  noble  a  reality  of  womanhood,  he  felt  unable  to 
search  long  and  far  enough  to  find  her  equal.  In 
chivalry  and  courtesy  to  woman  the  average  man 
was  no  peer  to  Mr.  Harris.  Being  a  trustee  of  the 
Northern  Dispensary  and  serving  often  on  commit- 
tees, he  opposed  with  vigor  and  eloquently  pleaded 
against  the  introduction  of  clinical  lectures.  His 
arguments,  whether  right  or  wrong,  were  based  on 
the  ground  of  the  painful  publicity  to  which  ladies 
in  poverty  but  of  refined  feelings  would  be  thus 
subject. 

Townsend  Harris  was  from  the  first  a  public- 
spirited  man.  He  was  keenly  interested  in  human 
progress  both  at  home  and  abroad.  Having  many 
customers  from  the  West  Indies  and  from  South 
America,  he  spoke  their  language,  the  Spanish, 
fluently.  He  took  a  hearty  interest  in  republican- 
ism, and  was  a  great  admirer  of  Bolivar.  Though 
in  politics  he  was  an  enthusiastic  partisan,  he 
gained  all  the  more  influence  with  his  fellow 
Democrats  because  he  refused  to  accept  office. 

He  had  wonderful  patience  and  powers  of  per- 
suasion, and  often  made  it  a  point  to  win  over  to 
good  words  and  works  men  of  vicious  ways  or  tur- 
bulent character.  His  ward  was  the  famous  and 
sometimes  infamous  "  Ninth."  In  those  days,  now 
happily  long  past,  of  volunteer  fire  companies,  the 


ANCESTRY,  AND  LIFE  IN  NEW   YORK         9 

fights  between  rival  gangs  of  rowdies  were  fearful 
and  often  bloody.  One  of  the  leading  spirits  in 
a  leading  company,  a  young  Irishman,  seemed  the 
incarnation  of  lawlessness,  with  apparently  no  de- 
sire to  become  a  decent  member  of  society.  Mr. 
Harris  on  inquiry  found  that  this  promising  anar- 
chist was  the  son  of  an  Irish  gentleman  who  had 
lost  position  in  life  through  admiration  of  the 
beauty  of  his  father's  cook,  who  drew  him  away 
from  home.  Marrying  her  and  coming  to  America, 
he  by  degrees  drifted  to  the  level  of  his  ignorant 
wife,  who  added  drunkenness  to  her  illiteracy,  —  a 
combination  which  Mr.  Harris  all  his  life  detested 
and  fought  against.  The  man  learned  blacksmith- 
ing.  His  children  grew  up  without  any  moral 
training.  Finally,  at  his  own  forge,  he  was  killed 
by  the  bursting  of  a  bombshell  which,  it  was  said, 
had  been  picked  up  on  some  old  battlefield  on 
Long  Island. 

Here  was  Townsend  Harris's  opportunity.  He 
went  to  the  funeral,  and  to  the  astonishment  of  his 
friends  rode  with  the  boy  in  a  carriage  to  the 
grave,  and  after  a  kindly  talk  invited  him  to  come 
and  see  him.  He  kept  his  word.  Kindness  cap- 
tured the  ringleader  in  bloody  riots.  A  lifelong 
influence  was  gained,  and  a  complete  change  of  life 
ensued.  Besides  pointing  out  a  better  way,  Mr. 
Harris  lent  him  books,  and  studied  the  bent  of  his 
mind.     In  later   years  when  Mr.    Harris  was  in 


10      PREPARATION  FOR   WORK  IN  JAPAN. 

Asia,  this  reformed  man  represented  in  Congress 
the  State  in  which  he  was  then  living. 

Eegretting  his  own  lack  of  superior  educational 
training,  Mr.  Harris  was  from  the  first  eagerly- 
interested  in  the  public  school  system.  Elected  a 
member  of  the  Board  of  Education  of  the  city  of 
New  York,  he  served  during  a  number  of  years, 
and  in  1846  and  1847  was  its  president.  Later, 
he  agitated  the  question  of  founding  the  New  York 
Free  Academy.  In  spite  of  all  opposition,  by 
answering  objections  and  using  freely  his  tongue, 
his  pen,  and  his  money,  Mr.  Harris  won  the  day. 
The  Free  Academy  became  a  fixed  fact.  The  idea 
of  the  founder  was  to  have  a  public  institution 
which  should  continue  and  carry  higher  the  educa- 
tion of  poor  boys.  In  later  years  when  Mr.  Har- 
ris's purpose  was  perverted,  and  the  Free  Academy 
became  the  "  College  of  the  City  of  New  York," 
he  grieved  sincerely  over  the  change  of  idea  as  well 
as  of  name. 

Strong  and  fearless  in  his  ideas  of  unselfish  duty, 
Mr.  Harris  was,  withal,  a  true  devotee  of  science. 
When  the  cholera  broke  out  in  1832,  he  sent  his 
mother,  sister,  brother,  and  four  motherless  nieces 
to  the  Catskill  Mountain  region  for  six  weeks, 
while  he  in  company  with  a  physician  remained  in 
the  city  and  visited  the  sick.  He  nursed  his  bro- 
ther's partner  when  attacked  by  this  disease,  and 
had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  his  patient  recover. 


ANCESTRY,  AND  LIFE  IN  NEW  YORK       11 

Of  national  and  international  affairs  Mr.  Har- 
ris was  more  than  an  observer :  tie  was  a  student. 
He  read  regularly  some  of  the  leading  French  and 
English  papers,  and  kept  himself  well  informed  as 
to  the  movement  in  European  politics.  He  was 
especially  interested  in  the  repeal  of  the  corn-laws. 
During  the  ministry  of  Robert  Peel  he  read  the 
parliamentary  debates  in  detail.  He  also  wrote 
several  articles  in  discussion  of  the  subject  in  the 
New  York  newspapers.  On  all  mercantile  subjects 
and  those  prominent  in  congressional  discussion 
he  took  a  hearty  interest.  In  a  knowledge  of 
certain  phases  of  political  economy  this  untitled 
man  might  well  be  called  a  past  master. 

Personally  interested  in  fire  and  military  compa- 
nies, this  handsome  and  healthy  young  man  enjoyed 
with  his  comrades  the  excitement  of  subduing 
"  dear  old  inflammable  New  York."  He  also  de- 
lighted in  the  exercise  of  drill  and  the  parade  down 
Broadway.  The  great  social  and  public  holidays 
were  gold-lettered  days  in  his  calendar.  On  rainy 
days  and  in  quiet  hours  chess  was  his  time-beguil- 
ing recreation. 

In  his  religious  life  Mr.  Harris  had  at  first  been 
trained  in  the  Presbyterian  form  of  Christianity, 
and  for  some  time  taught  a  class  in  the  Sunday- 
school  of  the  Christopher  Street  Church  in  New 
York.  Later,  he  felt  a  preference  for  the  ritual 
and   communion   of  the     Episcopal   fraternity   of 


12      PREPARATION  FOR    WORK  IN  JAPAN. 

Christians,  and  for  a  number  of  years  held  a  pew 
and  worshiped  in  the  Church  of  the  Ascension, 
then  under  the  charge  of  Rector  and  later  Bishop 
Gregory  T.  Bedell. 

Thus  passed  the  life  of  a  typical  gentleman  of 
old  New  York,  as  it  existed  chiefly  below  Four- 
teenth Street.  He  was  a  genuiue  product  of  the 
American  Christian  home.  So  dearly  did  he  en- 
joy his  environment,  that  though  often  urged  by 
his  brother  to  take  the  latter's  place  in  England, 
he  steadily  refused  to  leave  home  and  mother. 
Laughingly  he  would  say  that  when  he  did  expa- 
triate himself  he  would  go  to  the  Far  East  which 
was  so  shut  out  from  "  the  world."  With  books, 
with  his  favorite  chess,  with  his  mother  and  nieces, 
an  active  and  public-spirited  citizen,  a  true  Ameri- 
can to  the  very  iron  in  his  blood,  life  seemed  over- 
flowing in  richness  and  radiant  with  promise. 

Suddenly  night  fell  upon  this  home,  and  a 
"  cloudy  and  dark  day "  of  grief  followed.  In 
November,  1847,  his  mother  died.  Six  months 
later  the  old  home  was  broken  up.  Added  to  his 
personal  sorrow  came  a  depression  in  business 
which  gave  Townsend  Harris  his  opportunity. 
Settling  up  his  commercial  affairs,  he  left  New 
York,  resolved  to  see  Golden  California  and  the 
Mysterious  East. 

He  purchased  a  half-interest  in  a  vessel  bound 
for  California,  and  sailing  around  Cape  Horn  he 


ANCESTBY,  AND  LIFE  IN  NEW  YOBE.       13 

learned,  during  the  six  months'  voyage,  to  know 
the  ocean.  He  also  caught  glimpses  of  life  in 
South  America.  In  San  Francisco  he  purchased 
the  other  half  of  the  vessel.  He  now  resolved  to 
do  what  is  no  longer  possible  to  do  profitably  in 
these  days  of  steamers.  He  projected  a  trading 
voyage  to  China  and  the  Dutch  and  English 
Indies.  His  plan  was  to  stop  at  various  islands 
and  ports,  loading  and  unloading  at  each  place. 

Such  an  experience,  if  successful,  was  admir- 
ably calculated  to  increase  his  knowledge  of 
Malay,  insular,  and  Oriental  human  nature,  and  to 
give  him  a  wide  practical  knowledge  of  the  laws 
of  nations  and  of  the  conditions  of  trade  and  ex- 
change. Above  all,  it  would  fit  him  to  take  part 
in  the  solution  of  that  supreme  world-problem  of 
the  nineteenth  and  twentieth  centuries,  —  the 
harmony  of  Christendom  with  Buddhadom  and  the 
reconciliation  of  Occidental  and  Oriental  civiliza- 
tions. 


CHAPTER  II. 


EXPERIENCES   IN   ORIENTAL   LANDS   AND    SEAS. 


The  materials  are  not  accessible  for  illustra- 
ting in  full  the  life  of  Mr.  Harris  during  the  five 
years  in  which  he  was  engaged  in  commercial 
voyaging.  His  "Journal  No.  1,"  begun  after  a 
journey  through  India,  and  with  his  face  set  home- 
ward, is  dated  at  Penang. 

In  "  Journal  No.  3,"  written  at  Shimoda,  Japan, 
December  25,  1856,  he  writes :  "  I  will  here  note 
where  I  have  been  on  Christmas  Day  for  the  last 
eight  years. 

"Christmas,  1849,  at  sea  in  the  North  Pacific 
Ocean. 

"  Christmas,  1850,  at  Manila. 

1851,  at  Pulo-Penang. 

1852,  at  Singapore. 

1853,  at  Hong-Kong. 

1854,  at  Calcutta. 

1855,  at  Ceylon. 

1856,  in  Japan." 

From  his  personal  conversations  and  reminis- 
cences shared  with  his  friends  in  New  York  after 
his  return  from  Japan  late  in  1862,  it  is  certain 


IN  ORIENTAL  LANDS  AND  SEAS.  15 

that  he  made  extensive  trading  voyages  in  the 
Malayan  archipelago,  the  Dutch  East  Indies, 
probably  to  Australia,  and  even  further  afield 
among  the  cannibal  islands.  On  one  occasion 
he  spent  the  night  with  the  chief  of  a  man-eating 
tribe.  The  smoke-blackened  and  soot-festooned 
hut  was  decorated  with  a  dado  of  human  skulls. 
The  American's  host  not  only  expatiated  upon  the 
merits  of  man-meat,  but  even  touched  with  his 
fingers  Mr.  Harris's  body  at  those  parts  where  he 
declared  the  choicest  bits  were  to  be  found.   - 

In  his  journals,  begun  after  he  ceased  to  be  a 
commercial  and  became  a  diplomatic  traveler,  he 
occasionally  refers  to  former  experiences  in  Pacific 
and  Indian  waters.  He  remembers  especially  the 
flowers,  perfumes,  stars,  and  wonders  in  natural 
history.  His  favorite  region  appears  to  have 
been  the  Golden  Chersonese.  He  visited  Penang 
eight  times,  and  seemed  never  weary  of  describing 
its  delights  and  wonders. 

Mr.  Harris  resided  in  China  during  many 
months,  and  was  for  a  short  time,  we  believe, 
acting  vice-consul  of  the  United  States  at  Ningpo. 
On  conclusion  of  the  treaty  with  Japan  by  Com- 
modore Matthew  C.  Perry,  Mr.  Harris  wrote  to 
him  in  terms  of  warm  congratulation.  The  com- 
modore at  Hong-Kong  replied  January  7,  1854, 
in  terms  of  hearty  gratification. 

While  in  the  Middle   Kingdom,  Mr.   Harris's 


16      PREPARATION  FOR   WORE  IN  JAPAN. 

active  mind  was  applied  to  the  extension  of  Ameri- 
can commercial  enterprise,  and  especially  to  the 
acquisition  by  purchase  of  the  island  of  Formosa. 
This  fair  island,  misgoverned  and  only  partially 
settled  by  the  Chinese,  and  a  terror  to  navigators 
because  of  its  savage  and  cannibal  inhabitants, 
equals  in  area  the  two  States  of  New  Hampshire 
and  Vermont.  Mr.  Harris  made  a  careful  study 
from  many  authorities  in  English,  French,  Portu- 
guese, and  Dutch,  writing  out  his  excerpts  and  im- 
pressions. The  manuscript,  covering  one  hundred 
and  nineteen  pages  of  a  large  notebook,  shows  the 
reader's  critical  powers  and  sound  mental  diges- 
tion. Struck  with  the  capabilities  and  importance 
to  the  United  States  of  Formosa  as  a  coaling-sta- 
tion and  depot,  and  for  political  and  commercial 
advantages,  Mr.  Harris  from  Macao,  on  the  24th 
of  March,  1854,  wrote  concerning  it  to  the  Secre- 
tary of  State.  The  long  letter  tersely  summarizes 
the  whole  situation.  He  proposed  the  characteris- 
tic American  method  of  gaining  territory  by  pur- 
chase instead  of  by  conquest. 

Throughout  these  years,  the  merchant  navigator 
was  learning  diplomacy  at  first  hand,  and  studying 
especially  the  artifices  to  which  men  who  are  weak 
in  moral  courage  habitually  resort.  Oriental  and 
insular  human  nature  relies  more  on  cunning  than 
on  frankness.  Mr.  Harris  continually  proved  the 
advantage  of  truth-speaking.     He  believed  that  an 


IN  OBIENTAL  LANDS  AND  SEAS.  17 

honest  man  was  more  than  a  match  for  ten  thou- 
sand liars.  One  of  the  courtliest  of  men,  he  hated 
with  ever-deepening  hatred  both  the  liar  and  the 
politeness  that  cloaked  the  deception.  He  thought 
that  fine  manners  were  a  fine  art,  but  that  by 
deceit  art  was  degraded  and  its  beauty  turned  to 
ashes. 

Townsend  Harris  and  William  L.  Marcy,  Presi- 
dent Pierce's  able  Secretary  of  State,  were  personal 
friends.  When  these  high  officers  looked  about  to 
find  the  man  to  develop  American  relations  with 
Japan,  they  cast  their  eyes  upon  one  supremely 
fitted  for  the  task.  It  is  probable  that  Marcy 
wrote  to  China,  summoning  Mr.  Harris  on  the  plea 
of  personal  friendship  to  assume  the  responsible 
task.  To  get  into  the  Country  Behind  the  Looking- 
Glass  was  Townsend  Harris's  ambition.  He  quickly 
left  China,  and  turned  his  face  westward.  On  his 
way  home,  he  visited  India,  made  a  summer  voyage 
up  the  sultry  Red  Sea,  looked  at  Egypt's  antiqui- 
ties, and  saw  the  Pyramids  in  morning  sunlight. 
Traveling  by  the  new  railway  from  Cairo  to  Alex- 
andria, he  took  the  steamer  Euxine  to  Gibraltar. 
There,  as  he  writes,  he  richly  enjoyed  the  rolling 
sounds  of  the  majestic  Castilian  language.  He 
was  in  London  July  7.  He  had  intended  to  visit 
Paris,  but  letters  from  the  United  States  were  so 
urgent  that  he  took  passage  on  the  16th  at  Liver- 
pool for  home.     We  quote  now  from  his  journal : 


18       PREPARATION  FOR    WORK  IN  JAPAN. 

"  July  27,  1855.  At  four  p.  M.  we  passed  the 
buoy  on  the  bar  of  New  York,  which  completed  my 
voyage  round  the  world.  I  expressed  a  hope  to 
some  of  the  passengers  that  I  should  never  be 
required  to  leave  New  York  for  two  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  in  any  direction." 

The  summer  and  early  autumn  of  1855  form  a 
blank  in  Mr.  Harris's  journal,  but  evidently  about 
the  middle  of  October,  he  writes :  — 

"  I  omit  the  details  of  what  I  did  while  in  the 
United  States,  merely  noting  that  on  the  4th  of 
August  I  was  appointed  Consul-General  for  Japan. 
During  the  same  month  the  President  was  pleased 
to  intrust  me  with  the  making  [of]  a  commercial 
treaty  with  the  kingdom  of  Siam,  a  matter  in 
which  Mr.  Balestier  was  unsuccessful  in  1851." 

Apart  from  the  personal  friendship  of  Secretary 
Marcy  and  the  esteem  of  Commodore  M.  C.  Perry, 
Mr.  Harris  probably  did  not  himself  know  the 
forces  which  moved  President  Franklin  Pierce  to 
appoint  him.  To  intrust  two  such  difficult  tasks 
as  the  making  of  treaties  with  Siam  and  Japan  to 
an  untried  envoy  who  held  rank  below  that  of 
minister  was  at  least  a  noteworthy  proceeding. 
On  October  21,  1861,  Mr.  William  H.  Seward, 
President  Lincoln's  Secretary  of  State,  and  a  Re- 
publican, wrote  to  Townsend  Harris,  the  successful 
minister  of  the  United  States  in  Japan,  and  a 
Democrat :  — 


IN  OMENTAL  LANDS  AND  SEAS.  19 

"You  perhaps  are  informed  now  for  the  first 
time  that  your  appointment  as  the  first  commis- 
sioner to  Japan  was  made  by  President  Pierce 
upon  the  joint  recommendation  of  Commodore 
Perry  and  myself." 

The  three  months  on  his  native  soil  were  spent 
by  Mr.  Harris  (as  his  private  letter-books,  finance 
accounts,  and  other  data  we  have  read  show) 
in  selecting  and  purchasing  presents  for  the  two 
kings  of  Siam  and  the  "  Tycoon "  of  Yedo,  and 
in  preparing  his  personal  outfit  for  life  in  Japan. 
He  was  to  live  at  Shimoda,  —  a  pretty  place,  but 
for  commercial  development  a  cheat  and  a  sham. 
Apparently  promising  at  its  entrance  from  the  sea, 
it  was  landlocked.  It  resembled  what  the  Japanese 
call  a  "^Jmkuro  machi,"  or  bag  street.  It  had  ter- 
minal facilities  only  in  one  direction,  and  that  the 
wrong  one,  — .as  you  went  in.  The  name  means 
Low  Field. 

Presents  for  the  whole  pair  of  the  two-headed 
government  of  Siam  and  for  one  half  of  the 
duarchy  of  Japan  were  purchased  by  Mr.  Harris 
in  person.  At  that  time  the  peculiarities  of  Siam- 
ese royalty  were  known,  but  the  reality  of  things  in 
Nippon  was  not.  Then,  in  Western  eyes,  the  meat 
in  Yedo  was  more  than  the  life  in  Kioto,  and  the 
raiment  of  feudalism  more  than  the  national  body. 
Hence,  the  presents  selected  were  for  the  "  Tycoon," 
then  referred  to  as  "  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  of 
Japan." 


20       PBEPABATION  FOR   WORK  IN  JAPAN. 

The  tongue  of  Holland  was  the  only  European 
language  which  the  Japanese  knew  anything  about, 
it  being  the  basis  of  their  extra-Asiatic  culture. 
Moreover,  the  kindly  offices  and  recommendation 
of  the  Dutch  government  had  been  powerful  factors 
in  the  success  of  Perry's  mission.  Mr.  Harris's 
first  need,  therefore,  was  an  intelligent  young  Hol- 
lander to  act  as  secretary  and  interpreter.  This 
person,  through  the  aid  of  the  Reverend  Thomas 
De  Witt,  of  the  Collegiate  Reformed  Church  of 
New  York,  he  found  in  Mr.  Henry  C.  J.  Heusken, 
whose  widowed  mother  lived  in  Amsterdam.  He 
was  brave,  capable,  enthusiastic,  and  scholarly. 
He  acted  as  interpreter  to  the  British  and  Prussian 
embassies  during  the  treaty-making  epoch  follow- 
ing the  success  of  his  chief.  He  also  found  it 
necessary  to  instruct  the  Japanese,  who  called  them- 
selves interpreters,  in  modern  and  genuine  Dutch  : 
those  tyros  having  made  up  their  mind  that  a  local 
mercantile  patois,  two  hundred  years  old,  and 
steadily  flowing  in  Japanese  moulds  of  thought, 
was  the  only  proper  form  of  speech.  Moreover,  as 
they  insisted  that  every  word  in  the  Dutch  versions 
of  treaties,  etc.,  should  stand  in  the  same  order  as 
the  equivalent  in  the  Japanese,  they  had  to  be 
taught  not  only  a  new  language,  but  a  new  cycle  of 
ideas.  As  an  indispensable  element  in  Mr.  Harris's 
diplomatic  success  the  name  of  Henry  Heusken 
deserves  permanent  remembrance.     He  was  assas- 


IN  ORIENTAL  LANDS  AND  SEAS.  21 

sinated  by  cowardly  swashbucklers  in  Yedo  Jan- 
uary 14,  1861.1  His  tomb,  in  a  Buddhist  cemetery 
in  Tokio,  is  but  one  of  many  mournful  proofs  of 
the  great  sacrifice  of  life  attending  the  change  of 
civilization  in  Japan. 

In  Mr.  Harris's  journal  we  read :  — 

"  It  was  arranged  between  the  State  and  Navy 
departments  that  the  steam  frigate  San  Jacinto 
would  call  at  Penang,  to  which  place  I  wished  to 
proceed  overland,  and  then  take  me  to  Siam  and 
afterwards  to  Japan.  I  soon  made  the  acquaint- 
ance of  Commodore  Armstrong,  whose  flag  is  in 
the  San  Jacinto,  and  Captain  Bell  of  the  frigate. 
I  put  on  board  of  her  the  presents  for  the  kings 
of  Siam,  with  my  heavy  baggage  for  Japan,  with 
some  few  stores.  I  found  the  commodore  and 
Captain  Bell  very  kind,  and  I  hope  we  shall  prove 
to  be  good  messmates." 

Mr.  Heusken  embarked  on  board  the  United 
States  Steamship  San  Jacinto,  later  meeting  Mr. 
Harris  at  Penang.  His  active  duties  as  secretary 
began  in  Siam. 

The  San  Jacinto  was  named  after  the  famous 
battle  of  April,  1836,  by  which  Texas  ceased  to 
be  Spanish  and  Mexican  and  became  American. 
The  man-of-war  was  built  and  took  her  name  after 

1  His  diary  was  published  in  the  Proceedings  of  the  German 
Asiatic  Society  of  Japan,  June,  1883,  and  in  an  English  transla- 
tion in  The  Japan  Mail  of  January,  1884.  See  Alcoek's  Capital 
of  the  Tycoon,  vol.  ii.  pp.  39-55 ;   The  Tokio  Times,  vol.  iii.  p.  242. 


22      PREPARATION  FOR   WORK  IN  JAPAN. 

the  Lone  Star  State,  which,  by  joining  the  con- 
stellation of  the  Union,  had  added  the  twenty- 
eighth  light  to  its  azure  field.  While  bearing  our 
new  envoy  to  the  lands  of  the  White  Elephant 
and  of  Fuji-Yama,  the  San  Jacinto's  flag  bore 
thirty-one  stars.  This  war  steamer  was  a  pro- 
peller, but  her  motion  was  disagreeable,  her  speed 
low,  and  her  machinery  uncertain.  She  was  one 
hundred  and  forty-nine  days  out  from  New  York 
to  Penang.  The  story  of  her  long  cruise  has  been 
told  by  the  surgeon  W.  M.  Wood,  in  his  interest- 
ing book,  "  Fankwei :  The  San  Jacinto  in  the 
Seas  of  India,  China,  and  Japan."  Commodore 
James  Armstrong  captured  the  Barrier  Forts  at 
Canton  River  in  1857.  He  was  commandant  of  the 
Pensacola  Navy  Yard  in  1861,  and  died  in  the  year 
1868,  when  New  Japan  was  born.  Captain  Henry 
H.  Bell  afterwards  served  as  Farragut's  fleet  captain 
on  the  Mississippi.  Later,  while  in  command  of 
the  East  India  squadron,  he  attempted  to  pass  in 
his  barge  the  rough  waves  (which  even  in  early 
ages  were  called  Naniwa)  off  the  bar  in  Osaka 
River.  Where  hundreds  of  Japanese  have  lost 
their  lives  this  gallant  officer  was  drowned  April 
12,  1867. 

Leaving  New  York  October  17,  1855,  Consul- 
General  Harris  arrived  in  London  on  the  29th. 
He  made  his  financial  arrangements  with  the 
Baring  Brothers,  and  then  called  on  the  American 


IN  ORIENTAL  LANDS  AND  SEAS.  23 

Minister,  James  Buchanan.  In  Paris  he  saw  the 
great  Exposition,  the  bright  and  beautiful  city, 
and  the  treasures  of  art.  He  then  left  by  way  of 
Marseilles  for  Egypt.  During  his  agreeable  jour- 
ney down  the  Ked  Sea  he  became  acquainted 
with  Colonel  Chester  and  Miss  De  Quincey,  a 
daughter  of  the  most  subtle  master  of  English 
prose.  Mr.  Harris  wrote  :  "  She  is  going  out  to 
India  to  meet  her  betrothed.  She  has  a  sweet 
voice  and  sings  charmingly.  I  shall  long  remem- 
ber her  intelligent  face." 

In  Ceylon  at  Galle,  Mr.  Harris  studied  Bud- 
dhist relics  and  remains,  examined  Pali  manu- 
scripts, and  made  comparison  of  his  various  obser- 
vations in  other  countries  of  the  Buddhist  world. 
He  dined  with  Judge  Clarke,  of  whom  he  writes 
in  his  diary  :  — 

"  Mr.  Clarke  is  a  Teetotaller  —  of  which  class 
the  number  is  increasing  in  the  East.  While  in 
France,  I  drank  the  delightful  mild  wine  of  the 
South,  and,  after  leaving  Marseilles,  I  came  back 
to  my  old  Asiatic  habit  —  tea  and  cold  water." 

Waiting  amid  the  "  spicy  breezes  "  from  Christ- 
mas Eve  to  January  7,  Mr.  Harris  read  Thack- 
eray and  studied  the  story  of  the  foreigners  in 
India.  He  also  made  critical  survey  of  Great 
Britain's  policy  in  India  and  the  administration  of 
her  agents.  His  matured  desire  and  resolve  seem 
to  have   been  not  to  imitate   either   or  have  his 


24      PREPARATION  FOR   WORK  IN  JAPAN. 

countrymen  do  so.  His  journals  are  full  of  keen 
observations  and  fascinating  detail,  some  parts  of 
which  we  shall  utilize  in  annotating  his  Japan 
journal. 

On  January  19,  at  eight  P.  M.,  he  reached 
Penang.  This  made  his  seventh  visit.  He  re- 
ceived the  heartiest  welcome  from  many  men,  in 
several  languages.  He  was  kept  waiting  here  in 
spice-land  for  the  San  Jacinto  no  fewer  than 
seventy-six  days.  He  spent  the  time  in  enjoying 
social  hospitalities,  in  reading,  in  studying  nature 
and  man,  both  being  in  rather  a  mixed  and  con- 
centrated form.  His  daily  records  are  those  of  a 
close  and  wide  observer,  a  student  of  the  stars, 
birds,  fish,  mammals,  reptiles,  all  forms  of  vege- 
table and  animal  life,  as  well  as  of  minerals  and 
products  for  commerce.  He  seems  especially 
anxious  to  explode  and  banish  the  sensational 
stories  about  the  comparatively  harmless  and  use- 
ful boa-constrictor.  Mr.  Harris  delighted  in  ex- 
posing shams  and  bullies,  in  tearing  lions'  skins 
from  jackasses,  in  proving  that  "  Tycoons "  were 
frauds.  In  the  boa-constrictor  he  saw  a  scavenger 
rather  than  a  terror,  much  more  dangerous  in 
rhetoric  than  in  fact. 

All  Fools'  Day  came,  and  the  San  Jacinto, 
though  signaled,  was  not  evident  until  next  day, 
when  her  engines,  as  usual,  needed  repair.  Em- 
barking April  4,  the  run  to   Siam  was   made  in 


IN  ORIENTAL  LANDS  AND  SEAS.  25 

nine  days.  The  San  Jacinto  cast  anchor  off  the 
Menan  bar  April  13.  Townsend  Harris  was  to 
follow  up  the  work  of  Edmund  Roberts  in  1833, 
and  to  make  a  treaty  where  Mr.  Balestier  only  six 
years  before  had  failed.  Mr.  Parkes,  the  English 
consul  at  Amoy,  afterwards  Sir  Harry  Parkes, 
H.  B.  M.  Minister  in  Japan  and  China,  was  al- 
ready in  Bangkok  busy  at  negotiation.  Between 
the  apparent  "  inability  of  the  Siamese  to  enter- 
tain two  ideas  at  one  time  "  and  their  natural  sup- 
position that  the  English  must  necessarily  be  the 
basis  of  the  American  treaty,  Mr.  Harris  expected 
to  have  a  severe  strain  put  upon  his  patience. 

He  was  not  disappointed.  They  who  had  lived 
long  in  this  sub-tropical  "  Land  of  the  Free  "  had 
already  coined  a  proverb  that  "  one  must  come  to 
Siam  with  three  ships  ;  one  loaded  with  presents, 
another  with  patience,  and  a  third  ready  for  things 
to  be  carried  away."  After  due  formalities,  tedi- 
ous, dramatic,  necessary,  or  exhausting,  the  treaty 
was  won. 

Mr.  Harris  was  convinced  afresh  that  truth 
does  not  lie  at  the  basis  of  the  Asiatic  civiliza- 
tions. A  series  of  disagreeable  and  personal  epi- 
sodes, also,  —  in  the  form  of  "  Job's  comforters," 
—  neither  added  to  the  happiness  nor  improved 
the  temper  of  the  envoy  who  at  times  despaired 
of  success.  The  instrument,  together  with  that 
of  Edmund  Roberts  and  the  later  modifications  of 


26      PREPARATION  FOR    WORK  IN  JAPAN. 

the  Harris  treaty,  is  to  be  found  in  the  red-book 
entitled  "Treaties  and  Conventions  between  the 
United  States  and  Other  Powers^  1776-1887." 
Eight  chapters  on  Siam  and  the  Siamese  in  Dr. 
Wood's  "  Fankwei  "  give  copious  descriptions  of 
the  pageants,  presents,  and  outward  phases  of  Mr. 
Harris's  triumph. 

Leaving  Bangkok  May  31,  the  San  Jacinto 
anchored  off  Hong-Kong  June  12,  where  the  ship 
suffered  from  her  machinery  and  Mr.  Harris  had 
further  discipline  in  patience  until  August  12. 
Here,  also,  he  had  the  first  of  many  experiences 
with  his  rascally  Chinese  tailor.  He  learned  anew 
the  horrors  of  that  system  of  slave  trade,  euphemis- 
tically called  the  "  coolie  traffic,"  which  Japan,  in 
1874,  improved  off  the  face  of  the  earth.  He  saw 
in  the  harbor  the  hulk  of  the  old  74-gun  ship, 
Minden,  on  which  Key  the  prisoner  composed 
"  The  Star-Spangled  Banner  "  which  we  still  sing 
to  the  old  English  air,  "  Anacreon  in  Heaven." 

Again  Mr.  Harris  exercised  his  power  of  detect- 
ing and  exposing  shams.  A  Chinaman  had  brought 
on  board  a  "  wild  cat  "  to  sell.  It  was  loaded  with 
ropes  and  cords  for  the  protection  of  the  sons  of 
Mars  and  Neptune,  some  of  whom,  nevertheless, 
exhibited  signs  of  nervousness  when  the  civilian 
envoy  proceeded  to  mrwind  the  living  spool.  The 
poor  animal,  nearly  paralyzed  with  fright  and 
cramped  with  the  tight  lacing,  was  actually  unable 


IN  OBIENTAL  LANDS  AND  SEAS.  27 

for  some  minutes  to  stand.  By  noting  the  absence 
from  the  tip  of  the  ear  of  the  tuft  of  hair  always 
found  on  the  wild  species,  Mr.  Harris  recognized 
at  once  the  harmless  "  roof-scrambler  "  of  domestic 
life.  A  prompt  and  hearty  roar  of  laughter 
greeted  the  most  fearful  of  the  epauletted  specta- 
tors as  the  artificially  spotted  puss  lapped  up  her 
milk  and  purred  with  mingled  gratitude  and  satis- 
faction. 

On  his  greater  work  of  exposing  the  "  Tycoon," 
the  tiger  of  Yedo,  and  proving  that  beneath  the 
painted  skin  there  was  only  a  cat,  Mr.  Harris  pro- 
ceeded August  12.  It  was  an  apt  criticism  upon 
the  work  of  a  Japanese  artist  at  the  World's  Colum- 
bian Exposition  in  Chicago,  1893,  that  he  had 
painted  the  skin  but  not  the  tiger  inside  the  skin ; 
but  in  1856  all  the  world  thought  the  teeth  and 
claws  were  in  Yedo  and  nothing  but  the  stripes 
at  Kioto. 

On  the  way  up  the  Formosa  Channel  he  read  in 
Von  Siebold  of  coal  in  Kiushiu.  Several  disabled 
Chinese  junks  were  passed ;  two  were  assisted,  and 
the  crew  of  one  to  save  the  lives  of  the  waifs  was 
taken  on  board. 

On  the  18th  of  August,  the  first  view  of  Japan- 
land  was  caught  when  Tokura,1  one  of  the  islands 

1  Since  lighthouses  have  heen  erected,  ships  to  or  from  Yoko- 
hama and  Hong-Kong  take  the  route  more  than  a  hundred  miles 
northwardly,  running  under  the  extreme  southern  point  of  Kiu- 


28       PREPARATION  FOR   WORK  IN  JAPAN. 

of  the  Linschoten  group,  became  visible.  The 
Dutchmen  who  at  the  end  of  the  sixteenth  cen- 
tury were  enabled,  by  means  of  charts  copied 
at  Lisbon  by  Linschoten  from  the  Portuguese 
archives,  to  penetrate  the  marine  mysteries  of  the 
Far  East,  gratefully  named  their  first  landfall  in 
Japan  after  their  enterprising  countryman.  Later 
in  the  day,  as  Mr.  Harris  looked  at  Akuishi  Island, 
he  thus  recorded  his  impressions :  — 

"Conflicting  emotions  caused  by  the  sight  of 
these  Japanese  possessions.  My  future  brought 
vividly  to  mind.  Mental  and  social  isolation  on 
the  one  hand;  and  on  the  other  one,  important 
public  duties,  which,  if  properly  discharged,  will 
redound  to  my  credit.  A  people  almost  unknown 
to  the  world  is  to  be  examined  and  reported  on 
in  its  social,  moral,  and  political  state ;  the  produc- 
tions of  the  country,  animal,  vegetable,  and  mineral, 
to  be  ascertained  ;  the  products  of  the  industry  of 
the  country  found  out,  and  its  capacity  for  com- 
mercial intercourse,  what  are  its  wants,  and  what 
has  it  to  give  in  exchange.  A  new  and  difficult 
language  to  be  learned,  a  history  which  may 
throw  some  light  on  that  of  China  and  Korea  to  be 
examined,  and  finally  the  various  religious  creeds 
of  Japan  are  to  be  looked  at.  These  various  mat- 
ters offer  abundant  occupation  for  my  mind,  and 

shiu,  having  the  Sato  no  Misaki  light  for  a  day  and  night  land- 
mark. 


IN  ORIENTAL  LANDS  AND  SEAS.  29 

will  surely  prevent  anything  like  ennui  being  felt, 
if  I  only  give  myself  heartily  to  the  work,  and  if 
that  sine  qua  non  of  all  earthly  occupation,  health, 
be  vouchsafed  to  me  by  the  Great  Giver  of  all  good." 

The  excitement  proved  too  much,  and  Morpheus 
was  banished  that  night.     Next  day  he  wrote  :  — 

"  Rested  badly  —  could  not  drive  Japan  and  my 
duties,  on  which  I  am  so  soon  to  enter,  from  my 
mind.  Tried  every  plan  to  induce  sleep,  not  for- 
getting Dr.  Franklin's  air  bath,  but  I  did  not  sleep 
until  after  four  A.  M.,  and  was  called  at  six  o'clock, 
as  we  breakfast  at  seven. 

"  The  ship  has  been  going  on  well  during  the 
night,  averaging  about  ten  knots  per  hour.  Morn- 
ing bright  and  beautiful ;  wind  continues  fair,  but 
is  not  so  strong  as  last  night.  Saw  an  albatross, 
the  first  I  have  seen  since  I  last  left  the  coast  of 
California  in  the  month  of  October,  1850.  The 
bird  looked  almost  like  a  friend,  certainly  like  an 
old  acquaintance.  We  are  to-day  about  seventy 
miles  east  of  the  coast  of  Kiushiu,  but  the  water  is 
like  a  desert  so  far  as  man  is  concerned ;  not  a 
ship,  junk,  boat,  or  craft  of  any  kind  is  visible,  and 
this,  too,  when  near  the  coast  of  an  empire  more 
populous  than  the  United  States  !  What  a  con- 
trast to  the  whirl  of  life  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Pacific  !  I  shall  be  the  first  recognized  agent  from 
a  civilized  power  to  reside  in  Japan.  This  forms 
an  epoch  in  my  life,  and  may  be  the  beginning  of 
a  new  order  of  things  in  Japan.     I  hope  I  may  so 


30      PREPARATION  FOR   WORK  IN  JAPAN. 

conduct  myself  that  I  may  have  honorable  men- 
tion in  the  histories  which  will  be  written  on 
Japan  and  its  future  destiny." 

Mr.  Harris  had  not  yet  emancipated  his  pen 
from  the  uncouth  Dutch  spelling,  inaccurate  Euro- 
pean notions,  and  the  provincialism  of  such  caco- 
graphy  as  "Siri  Jama"  for  Shiroyama  (Hakuzan 
or  white  mountain),  "  Foosi  Jama  "  for  Fuji-Yama 
or  San,  and  "  Nippon  "  for  Hondo.  The  scholars 
of  the  British  Legation,  who  were  to  lay  the  foun- 
dations of  critical  scholarship,  reform  translitera- 
tion, and  prick  the  bubble  of  Japan's  mythical 
chronology,  Messrs.  Satow,  Aston,  Chamberlain, 
et  aL,  were  still  at  home.  It  is  not  known  that 
Fuji-San  had  ever  been  ascended  by  a  white  man. 
Though  Siebold  Japanese  pupils  had  measured 
the  height  of  Hakuzan,  the  writer  was  the  first 
foreigner  who  ever  reached  its  top.1 

Approaching  Cape  Idzu,  many  junks  were  in 
sight.  Towards  evening  they  increased  in  such 
numbers  that  it  was  difficult  to  avoid  collision. 
The  engines  were  stopped  and  the  ship  lay  to 
during  the  night,  which  was  one  of  rain  squalls. 
During  this  day,  August  20,  Dr.  Wood  taught 
both  Mr.  Harris  and  Mr.  Heusken  the  use  of  a 
tourniquet  in  case  of  accident,  and  gave  hints  as  to 
the  right  use  of  quinine. 

From  this  point,  Mr.  Harris  tells  his  own  story 
in  his  journals. 

1  The  Mikado's  Empire,  p.  530  ;  Rein's  Japan,  p.  76. 


PART  II. 

MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 


If  "  an  ambassador,"  according  to  Wotton's  definition,  u  is  an 
honest  man  sent  to  lie  abroad  for  his  commonwealth,"  Harris  was 
no  diplomat.  If,  on  the  contrary,  an  American  Minister  to  an 
Oriental  Court  is  a  representative  of  the  moral  principles  of  the 
great  Christian  Republic,  Harris  deserves  the  name  in  its  best 
sense.  Nitobe. 

The  most  wholesome  influence  that  can  be  exerted  upon  a 
young  individual  or  nation  is  to  awaken  in  him  or  it  self-respect 
and  a  manly  sense  of  independence.  Such  it  has  always  been  the 
policy  of  United  States  diplomacy  to  do  in  Japan.  Whatever  else 
changed  at  each  change  of  the  administration,  this  never  changed. 

Nitobe. 

Despite  the  admiration  for  military  exploits  which  the  Amer- 
icans have  sometimes  shown,  no  country  is  at  bottom  more  per- 
vaded by  a  hatred  of  war,  and  a  sense  that  national  honor  stands 
rooted  in  national  fair  dealing.  James  Bkyce. 

However  great  in  number  and  variety  be  the  nations  of  the 
earth,  the  God  who  rules  over  them  all  (or  binds  them  together) 
can  never  be  more  than  one.  Okubo  Ichio. 


CHAPTER  III. 

HOUSEKEEPING   IN   SHIMODA. 

Thursday,  August  21,  1856,  six  a.  m.  Find 
ourselves  in  sight  of  land,  which  proves  to  be  Cape 
Omaesaki.1  Large  numbers  of  fishing-boats,  near 
seventy.  Like  the  appearance  of  the  Japanese, 
clean  and  well  clad.  Cheerful  looking ;  pretty 
fish-boats.  At  half  past  seven  A.  M.  under  way. 
Showery.  Write  letters  announcing  my  arrival  to 
the  Governor  of  Shimoda  and  Minister  of  Foreign 
Affairs,  sending  to  the  latter  a  letter  from  Mr. 
Secretary  Marcy.  Mr.  Heusken  makes  Dutch 
translations  of  these  various  letters.  When  at  the 
mouth  of  the  harbor,  a  boat  with  the  American 
flag  at  the  bow,  and  Japanese  flags,  —  stripes,  white, 
black,  white,  horizontal,  —  came  off,  bringing  a 
pilot,  who  soon  took  us  into  the  petite  harbor  of 
Shimoda.  It  is  rather  a  bight  than  a  harbor,  and 
not  more  than  three  vessels  like  the  San  Jacinto 

1  In  Totomi,  the  seat  of  a  lighthouse,  a  few  miles  southeast  of 
the  great  naval  station  of  Yokosuka  ;  near  which  is  the  grave  of 
Will  Adams,  the  Englishman,  pilot  and  shipbuilder,  who  lived  in 
Japan  1600-1620,  and  where  are  built  the  wooden  and  steel  ves- 
sels of  the  Imperial  navy,  such  as  won  the  battle  off  the  Yalu 
River,  September  17,  1894. 


34  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

can  moor  at  the  same  time  in  the  inner  harbor. 
The  outer  harbor  is  nothing  more  than  an  open 
roadstead.  Soon  after  we  anchored,  three  officials 
and  two  Dutch  interpreters 1  came  off  from  the 
Governor  with  his  compliments  on  my  arrival,  ask- 
ing after  my  health,  how  long  a  passage  I  had, 
etc.,  offering  to  supply  water  and  food  to  the  ship. 
They  also  asked  when  I  proposed  to  land ;  in  reply 
I  said  that  as  the  weather  was  wet  I  would  not 
land  to-day,  but  if  the  weather  was  fair  should  do 
so  on  the  morrow,  asking  what  hour  it  would  suit 
the  Governor  to  receive  my  visit.  In  reply  to  this 
they  said  they  would  ask  the  Governor  and  make 
known  his  answer  to-day.  When  asked  what  pro- 
visions could  be  furnished,  they  said,  "  The  Gov- 
ernor would  answer."  I  asked  if  a  house  had  been 
prepared  for  me.  They  said  again,  "  The  Governor 
would  answer,"  adding  that  Shimoda  was  a  very 
poor  place ;  that  it  had  not  yet  recovered  from  the 
effects  of  the  earthquake  of  December,  1854,  when 
every  house  in  the  place  except  fourteen  were 
destroyed.     These  persons  soon  after  left. 

Some  of  the  officers  went  on  shore  this  after- 
noon, and  were  much  pleased  with  the  appearance 
of  the  little  place  and  the  people.  The  houses  are 
all  new  and  fresh  looking.  They  found  quite  a  lot 
of  coal  here  for  us,  say  some  two  hundred  tons. 

At  five  P.  M.,  the  officials  again  came  off,  and 

1  Native  Japanese  able  to  speak  Dutch. 


HOUSEKEEPING  IN  SHIMODA.  35 

said  that  the  letter  I  had  given  them  for  the  Gov- 
ernor was  then  being  translated,  and  that  the  two 
for  Yedo  had  been  already  sent  off,  and  that  it 
would  take  five  days  for  them  to  reach  Yedo,  that 
the  Governor  would  be  ready  to  receive  my  visit  at 
one  P.  M.  to-morrow. 

The  interpreters  were  in  constant  trepidation 
and  fear,  and  large  drops  of  perspiration  stood  on 
their  foreheads,  while  every  word  of  question  and 
answer  was  written  down  by  two  of  the  party.  The 
Commodore  is  quite  unwell  this  evening. 

Friday,  August  22, 1856.  The  officers  off  again 
this  morning  to  inquire  after  the  Commodore's 
health,  and  finding  he  was  too  unwell  to  go  on 
shore  to-day,  they  said  the  Governor  begged  to 
be  excused  from  seeing  me  to-day,  as  he  was 
unwell,  etc.  I  said  to-morrow  would  do  as  well. 
They  asked  if  the  Commodore  would  be  well  enough 
to  go  with  me  to-morrow.  I  answered  I  could  not 
say,  but  that  my  visit  was  entirely  independent  of 
the  Commodore  ;  that  when  he  was  well  enough  he 
would  himself  call  on  the  Governor. 

I  found  that  it  was  their  plan  to  delay  my 
visit  until  the  Commodore  was  well  enough,  so 
that  they  might  afterwards  deny  having  received 
me  on  my  individual  account,  but  solely  as  one 
of  the  Commodore's  suite ; 1  and  this  was  proved 

1  Those  who  think  that  Mr.  Harris  was  too  suspicious  may  re- 
member that  Commodore  Perry,  despite  his  shrewdness,  was  sev- 


36  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

by  their  saying  that  when  the  Governor  was 
well  enough  to  see  me,  he  would  send  me  word. 
I  then  said  this  was  a  matter  concerning  the  dig- 
nity of  my  government,  that  the  Governor  should 
write  to  me  excusing  himself  on  account  of  illness, 
and  that  I  would  send  that  letter  to  my  govern- 
ment, and  leave  it  for  its  adjustment. 

This  proposition  greatly  embarrassed  them. 
The  Governor  was  sick,  therefore  no  letter  was 
required.  I  insisted.  They  then  offered  to  write 
to  that  effect  themselves  ;  this  I  declined. 

I  finally  closed  the  discussion  by  saying  that  if 
the  Governor  wrote  his  excuse  to  me  before  noon 
of  to-morrow,  I  should  be  satisfied ;  but  that  other- 
wise, I  should  come  on  shore  to-morrow  at  one 
o'clock  to  visit  him. 

The  Governor  sent  off  ten  Bonito  and  some 
small  cray-fish  as  a  present  to  the  Commodore. 
Captain  Bell  gave  them  some  seeds  of  a  creeper 
and  a  large  sort  of  squash,  which  they  at  first 
accepted,  but  when  they  were  just  leaving  the 
ship,  they  brought  them  back  to  the  cabin,  their 
courage  having  failed  them.  They  went  ashore, 
promising  to  let  me  know  to-day  about  the  visit  to 
the  Governor,  etc. 

Visited  the  village  of  Kakizaki,1  opposite  Shi- 

eral  times  deceived,  in  one  instance  receiving  a  "  corporal,"  who 
pretended  to  be  the  "Prince  of  Idzu."     See  Life  and  Letters  of 
S.  Wells  Williams,  p.  298. 
1  Oyster  Point. 


HOUSEKEEPING  IN  SHIMODA.  37 

moda.  The  temple  of  this  place,  Yokushen,  of  the 
Shinto  sect,  is  set  apart  for  the  accommodation  of 
Americans.  The  rooms  are  spacious  and  very- 
neat  and  clean,  and  a  person  might  stay  here  for 
a  few  weeks  in  tolerable  comfort.  Near  this 
temple  is  the  American  cemetery,  which  contains 
four  neat  tombs,  prettily  fenced  in.  It  is  very 
small,  only  about  fifteen  by  ten  feet. 

Kakizaki  is  a  small  and  poor  fishing-village,  but 
the  people  are  clean  in  person  and  civil  in  manner. 
You  see  none  of  the  squalor  which  usually  attends 
poverty  in  all  parts  of  the  world.  Their  houses 
are  as  clean  as  need  be,  every  inch  of  ground  is 
cultivated,  as  the  ground  is  very  rolling,  rising  up 
in  pinnacles  of  lava  or  indurated  clay  ejected  from 
volcanoes,  and  so  steep  as  not  to  be  arable.  It  is 
a  pity  goats  are  not  introduced  here.  The  pinna- 
cles afford  fine  grazing  for  goats,  and  their  habits 
of  climbing  would  make  them  at  home  on  them  ; 
their  milk  would  be  a  nutritious  food,  and  cheese 
might  be  made  from  it  also,  and  this  would  be  an 
object  to  the  Japanese  even  though  they  might  not 
eat  the  flesh.1 

The  views  from  the  ship  present  a  series  of  ser- 
rated hills  rising  up  to  fifteen  hundred  feet  high, 

1  The  first  Dutch  ships  coming-  to  Japan  in  1600  were  laden 
with  butter  and  cheese,  for  which  the  Japanese  cared  nothing- 
then  and  but  little  now.  The  Dutchmen  soon  changed  their 
cargoes  to  suit  the  Japanese  taste  and  demand. 


38  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

most  of  which  are  covered  with  fir,  spruce,  and 
cedar  trees. 

The  Temple  Rioshen,  at  Shimoda,  is  also  set 
apart  for  the  use  of  Americans.  Perhaps  I  may 
have  to  reside  in  it  until  a  house  can  be  prepared 
for  me. 

Late  this  afternoon,  the  officers  again  came  off, 
but  I  declined  to  see  them,  so  Mr.  Heusken  heard 
what  they  had  to  say  and  reported  it  to  me.  The 
purport  was  that  the  Governor  was  really  unable 
to  see  me  to-morrow,  and  they  offered  to  bring  a 
doctor's  certificate  to  that  effect,  and  earnestly 
begged  me  to  postpone  my  visit  until  another 
day.  I  caused  them  to  be  told  that  I  was  most 
anxious  to  do  all  I  could  to  oblige  the  Governor, 
and  that  I  wished  to  be  on  friendly  terms  with 
him;  I  should  therefore  consent  to  postpone  my 
visit  until  Monday;  that  no  visits  could  be  paid  on 
Sunday  or  any  business  transacted  on  that  day. 
They  were  also  told  that  Commodore  Armstrong 
would  not  visit  the  Governor  until  after  I  had  seen 
the  Governor,  and  that  we  should  not  come  to- 
gether to  pay  a  visit  to  the  Governor.  The  offi- 
cers were  most  urgent  to  see  me,  and  their  anxiety 
on  this  point  appeared  to  increase  with  my  refu- 
sals, but  I  persisted,  and  at  last  they  left  quite 
chap-fallen.  It  is  now  understood  that  I  am  to 
visit  the  Governor  on  Monday  at  ten  A.  M.  Some 
of  the  officers  have  been  on  shore,  and  report  a 


HOUSEKEEPING  IN  SHIMODA.  39 

very  pretty  bazar  has  been  opened,  with  great  dis- 
play of  lacquered  ware,  etc.,  etc. 

Saturday,  August  23,  1856.  Go  on  shore  with 
Captain  Bell  and  Mr.  Heusken ;  visit  the  Temple 
Eioshen.  It  is  badly  placed  for  hot  weather, 
being  at  the  foot  of  a  steep  hill  that  shuts  out 
the  southwest  wind  entirely,  and  is  surrounded  by 
stagnant  pools  and  other  disagreeables. 

We  afterwards  visited  six  or  seven  other  tem- 
ples. They  are  all  built  after  one  pattern,  some  a 
little  larger  and  in  better  order  than  the  others, 
and  having  more  agreeable  situations,  but  be- 
yond this  they  are  exactly  alike.  We  afterwards 
walked  up  the  valley  some  two  miles.  Saw  a 
large  inclosure  containing  some  twenty  detached 
buildings,  all  new,  and  in  fact  some  were  not  yet 
completed.  I  learn  this  is  the  residence  of  the 
Governor.  In  the  afternoon  I  went  again  to  Kaki- 
zaki.  I  find  the  temple  there  has  been  cleaned  out, 
apparently  to  prepare  it  for  my  reception.  I  have 
thought  much  about  my  accepting  this  temple  for 
my  residence.  The  building  is  as  good,  if  not 
better  than  any  of  the  others,  but  it  is  isolated, 
and  the  approach  is  through  the  narrow  and 
crooked  alleys  of  a  very  poor  fishing-village.  I 
should  here  be  unseen  and  unknown  to  the  people, 
and  to  go  to  market  my  servants,  in  bad  weather, 
could  not  cross  in  a  boat,  and  the  road  to  go  and 
return  would  be   nearly  five   miles.     Again,  the 


40  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

treaty  says,  and  my  commission  says,  I  am  to  re- 
side at  Shimoda.  Now  Kakizaki  is  not  Shimoda. 
I  therefore  think  I  shall  refuse  this  temple  as  my 
place  of  residence. 

Weather  delightful.  Barometer  30.10.  The 
air  is  like  that  of  the  United  States,  full  of  oxy- 
gen. 

Sunday,  August  24,  1856.  Do  not  leave  the 
ship.  In  the  afternoon  the  Japanese  come  off  and 
desire  to  see  me.  I  decline  either  to  see  them  or 
to  hear  their  messages,  for  the  reason  that  it  is 
Sunday.  They  urge  me  at  least  to  hear  their 
message,  saying  that  it  is  very  important,  and 
from  the  Governor.  They  also  say  that  when 
Commodore  Perry  was  here,  he  made  no  differ- 
ence for  Sunday,1  etc.,  etc.  I  adhere  to  my  pre- 
vious determination,  telling  them  through  Mr. 
Heusken,  that  they  can  come  off  to-morrow  morn- 
ing as  early  as  they  please,  and  then  state  their 
message. 

Monday,  August  25,  1856.  The  officers  come 
off  at  eight  A.  M.  with  a  message  that  the  Governor 
will  be  ready  to  receive  me  at  ten  o'clock.  At 
that  hour  go  on  shore  accompanied  by  Captain 
Bell  and  some  ten  others.  I  go  in  the  Commo- 
dore's boat,  having  my  Secretary  with  me.  The 
three  boats  preceded  me  so  that  the  officers  could 

1  Compare  Ferry's  Expedition,  p.  276 ;  Life  and  Letters  of  S. 
Wells  Williams,  pp.  216,  254. 


HOUSEKEEPING  IN  SHIMODA.  41 

land  and  form  in  order  before  I  landed.  When 
my  boat  had  pulled  well  off  from  the  ship  a  salute 
of  thirteen  guns  was  fired,  waking  up  the  grandest 
echoes  among  the  hills.  On  landing  I  found  the 
streets  thronged  with  persons  collected  to  see  us 
pass.  I  was  conducted  to  a  new  building,  nearly 
in  the  centre  of  the  town. 

I  was  politely  received  by  the  Governor  and 
vice-governor.  Asked  after  my  health,  when  I 
left  the  United  States,  etc.,  etc.  They  asked  in 
whose  honor  the  salute  was  fired,  and  were  told 
that  it  was  in  mine,  when  I  perceived  that  I  in- 
stantly rose  in  their  estimation.  The  Governor 
said  he  should  like  to  see  such  guns  fired,  where- 
upon Captain  Bell  invited  him  to  visit  the  ship  on 
Saturday  next,  as  they  are  now  painting  on  board, 
and  he  feared  they  might  soil  their  clothes.  Re- 
freshments were  served  up  in  Japanese  style.  The 
cooking  was  excellent  and  served  up  with  extreme 
neatness  and  cleanliness.  I  am  much  prepossessed 
in  favor  of  their  cookery.  I  asked  the  Governor 
when  I  could  see  him  on  business.  He  said  I 
could  enter  on  business  then  if  I  pleased.  I  replied 
that  it  would  not  be  good  breeding  to  enter  on 
business  on  a  visit  of  ceremony.  He  then  said  the 
vice-governor  would  attend  me  the  next  day,  at 
the  same  hour  and  place,  and  that  the  vice-gov- 
ernor could  act  as  himself,  etc.,  etc. 

Our  visit  lasted  nearly  two  hours,  and  we  were 


42  MB.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

all  much  pleased  with  the  appearance  and  manners 
of  the  Japanese.  I  repeat  they  are  superior  to 
any  people  east  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

Tuesday,  August  26,  1856.  I  omitted  yester- 
day to  state  that  a  superior  interpreter  appeared 
at  my  interview.  He  is  attached  to  the  office  of 
the  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs;  a  good  inter- 
preter, of  most  agreeable  manners,  and  a  true 
courtier.  Seven  scribes  recorded  our  sayings  and 
doings  yesterday.  To-day  ashore  at  ten  with  Mr. 
Heusken.  Met  the  vice-governor  and  the  person 
from  Yedp,  who  evidently  has  come  down  since 
our  arrival  was  reported  there,  although  they  say 
the  journey  cannot  be  made  under  five  days  from 
here  to  Yedo. 

My  interview  was  long  and  far  from  satisfac- 
tory. They  did  not  expect  the  arrival  of  a  consul. 
A  consul  was  only  to  be  sent  when  some  difficulty 
arose,  and  no  such  thing  had  taken  place.  Shi- 
moda  was  a  poor  place,  and  had  been  recently 
desolated  by  an  earthquake.  They  had  no  resi- 
dence prepared  for  me.  I  had  better  go  away  and 
return  in  about  a  year,  when  they  hoped  to  have 
a  house  ready.  The  treaty  said  that  a  consul  was 
to  come  if  both  nations  wished  it,1  that  it  was 
not  left  to  the    simple  will  of  the  United  States 

i  "  There  shall  he  appointed  hy  the  government  of  the  United 
States,  consuls  or  agents,  to  reside  in  Shimoda  .  .  .  provided  that 
either  of  the  two  governments  deem  such  arrangement  necessary." 
Perry's  Treaty,  art.  xi. 


HOUSEKEEPING  IN  SHIMODA.  43 

government.  Would  I  land  at  Kakizaki  and  take 
up  my  residence  at  the  temple  there,  and  leave  the 
question  of  my  official  residence  to  be  settled  by 
future  negotiations  ?  Yedo  was  also  in  a  ruinous 
condition  from  an  earthquake  ten  months  since,1 
therefore  they  could  not  offer  me  a  house  there 
while  building  one  here. 

The  foregoing  is  the  substance  of  their  remarks 
and  propositions,  made  and  renewed  and  changed 
in  every  possible  form  and  manner  during  three 
mortal  hours.  I  need  hardly  write  that  I  courte- 
ously but  firmly  negatived  all  their  propositions. 
They  earnestly  protested  against  the  idea  that 
they  refused  to  receive  me,  or  that  they  meant  in 
any  way  to  break  the  treaty.  They  at  last  begged 
to  adjourn  the  business  until  to-morrow  at  the 
same  hour,  to  give  them  time  to  consult. 

The  sales  in  the  bazaar  cannot  be  much  under 
two  thousand  dollars  ;  the  prices  are  most  exorbi- 
tant. They  appear  to  raise  them  at  each  new 
arrival  of  a  ship  here.  Ordered  spars  to  make 
my  flag-staff,  one  of  50  feet,  12  inches  by  8,  and 
the  other,  30  feet  long,  7  inches  by  4  inches,  and 
four  small  pieces. 

1  This  great  earthquake  is  graphically  described  in  a  well- 
illustrated  book,  entitled  The  Tribulations  of  Ansei  (year  period, 
1854-1859).  Most  of  the  dead,  alleged  to  number  104,000,  were 
buried  in  or  cremated  near  the  one  enlarged  temple-yard  of  E'  Ko 
-In,  where  also  the  alleged  166,0^)0  victims  of  the  seismic  disturb- 
ances of  1656  had  been  interred  or  inurned. 


44  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

Wednesday,  August  27,  1856.  On  shore  at  ten 
A.  M.  by  appointment  to  meet  the  Governor  or  vice- 
governor,  but  neither  of  them  made  his  appear- 
ance. Ten  persons  were  present,  including  the 
Yedo  official.  They  said  the  Governor  was  very 
ill  the  previous  night  with  a  violent  headache,  so 
they  were  unable  to  consult  with  him.  They  then 
said  that  the  treaty  provided  for  a  consul,  but  not 
a  consul-general ;  that  the  additional  articles  had 
not  been  sent  out  as  ratified ;  that  they  expected 
the  government  of  the  United  States  would  send 
out  an  ambassador  with  the  ratified  articles,  and 
then  enter  on  negotiations  about  sending  a  consul. 

I  told  them  I  was  surprised  the  vice-governor 
should  not  appear  after  making  an  appointment 
with  me  ;  that  I  considered  it  as  want  of  respect, 
and  that  I  must  decline  entering  into  any  conver- 
sation about  my  affairs  with  any  one  but  the  Gov- 
ernor or  vice-governor  ;  that  I  would  go  on  board 
the  steamer  and  consult  with  Commodore  Arm- 
strong, and  then  he  would  determine  whether  he 
would  take  me  up  to  Yedo,  and  there  get  satisfac- 
tion. 

The  officer  from  Yedo  said  he  was  of  higher 
rank  than  the  Governor,  and  asked  why  I  should 
object  to  negotiate  with  him.  I  replied  that  I 
could  only  know  the  official  authorities  of  the 
place,  and  with  them  only  have  any  official  inter- 
course ;   that   for   himself  I  had   a   high   esteem, 


HOUSEKEEPING  IN  SHIMODA.  45 

based  on  what  I  had  seen  of  him,  but  that  personal 
feeling  could  not  give  him  that  status  which  my 
official  business  required.  They  urged  me  to  pro- 
ceed in  the  matter,  but  to  some  questions  they  put 
I  said  I  had  no  answer  to  give  them.  They  con- 
stantly renewed  and  urgently  the  request  that  I 
would  proceed  with  them.  I  as  constantly  de- 
clined. They  then  said  they  would  report  on  what 
had  occurred  to  the  Governor,  and  requested  me  to 
meet  them  to-morrow  at  the  same  hour  to  meet  the 
vice-governor.  I  told  them  that,  as  the  vice-gov- 
ernor had  broken  his  appointment  with  me,  I  could 
not  consent  to  make  another  appointment  until 
I  had  some  explanation  or  apology  for  his  absence 
of  this  morning  ;  that  I  wished  the  Governor  or 
vice-governor  to  write  me  a  letter  and  send  it  to 
me  on  board  the  steamer,  stating  whether  they 
would  receive  me  in  Shimoda  or  not,  and  whether 
they  would  assign  me  a  house  to  reside  in  ;  that  I 
desired  this  letter  to  be  sent  to  me  either  to-day  or 
to-morrow  morning. 

They  were  anxious  to  know  whether  I  was  re- 
solved to  go  to  Yedo,  if  not  received  here.  I  said 
that  would  be  settled  after  consultation  with  the 
Commodore.  They  were  greatly  agitated  when  I 
mentioned  the  going  up  to  Yedo. 

Thursday,  August  28,  1856.  The  vice-governor, 
the  high  person  from  Yedo,  and  a  large  suite 
came   off   this   morning.      The   vice-governor   ex- 


46  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

plained  his  absence  yesterday  by  saying  the  indi- 
vidual from  Yedo  was  of  higher  rank  than  himself, 
and  had  full  powers  from  the  government  to  act 
in  my  matters.  He  then  said  that  he  was  ready  to 
receive  me  with  all  the  honors  due  to  my  high 
place,  and  to  assign  me  the  only  place  that  was 
habitable  for  my  residence,  the  Temple  of  Yoku- 
shen  at  Kakizaki ;  that  Kakizaki  was  in  point  of 
fact  a  part  of  Shimoda,  subject  to  the  same  gov- 
ernor, magistrates,  police,  etc.,  etc. ;  that  the  name 
was  only  local  to  distinguish  it  as  a  part  of  Shi- 
moda, as  the  suburbs  of  Western  cities  receive  dis- 
tinctive local  names ;  that  the  Go-yosho  was  as  its 
name  indicated  an  "  Imperial  seat "  built  solely 
for  the  reception  of  strangers  of  distinction  who 
came  to  Shimoda ;  that  the  Governor  had  no  power 
to  use  it  for  himself  or  to  authorize  its  use  by 
others ;  that  I  must  see  how  deplorably  the  place 
had  been  injured  by  the  earthquake ;  that  as  to 
the  temples  in  Shimoda  they  were  all  actually  occu- 
pied as  places  of  worship  and  for  cemeteries  ;  that 
it  would  be  an  outrage  on  the  feelings  of  the  peo- 
ple who  worshiped  there,  or  who  frequently  went 
there  to  offer  prayers  at  the  graves  of  their  ances- 
tors, to  find  the  place  used  for  secular  purposes ; 
that  the  temple  at  Kakizaki  was  not  of  this  char- 
acter ;  that  its  purpose  was  the  accommodation 
of  parties  who  went  out  to  make  a  religious  holi- 
day ;  that  its  occupation  by  me  would  be  inconven- 


HOUSEKEEPING  IN  SHIMODA.  47 

ient,  but  would  not  be  a  desecration  ; *  that  the 
government  at  Yedo  could  not  give  me  any  other 
answer,  even  if  I  went  up  there  in  the  steamer; 
that  my  residence  was  to  be  considered  as  only 
temporary  and  until  they  could  erect  a  proper 
building  for  me,  and  that  they  would  adapt  the 
building  as  much  as  they  could  to  my  wants  ; 
finally,  that  they  had  offered  me  the  best  they  had, 
and  if  I  did  not  accept  it,  I  could  not  say  they  had 
refused  to  receive  me,  or  to  furnish  me  with  quar- 
ters. I  told  them  I  would  send  my  answer  on 
shore  in  two  hours  by  my  secretary. 

Accordingly  I  instructed  Mr.  Heusken  to  say  to 
the  Governor  that  I  was  most  anxious  to  avoid 
any  difficulties,  and  although  I  feared  my  govern- 
ment might  blame  me  for  accepting  a  residence  at 
Kakizaki,  instead  of  Shimoda,  I  would  accept  it 
with  the  full  understanding  that  a  suitable  house 
was  to  be  prepared  for  me  as  soon  as  possible,  and 
that  I  must  have  a  boat  and  men  constantly  at  my 
command  for  my  use  while  there. 

I  also  gave  notice  that  I  should  want  two  large 
boats  on  Saturday  to  take  my  things  on  shore,  and 
men  to  take  them  from  the  landing  to  the  house, 
with  proper  persons  to  watch  them  until  I  came  on 
shore,  etc.,  etc. 

1  The  Japanese  were  then  right,  and  in  "being  so,  in  1856,  showed 
the  utter  oecultation  of  the  ancient  Shinto  faith  (until  1870) 
by  Buddhism.     See  The  Religions  of  Japan,  chapter  vii. 


48  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

Friday,  August  29,  1856.  Mr.  Heusken  goes 
on  shore  with  the  carpenter  to  aid  him  in  selecting 
a  spar,  etc.,  and  afterwards  to  go  over  to  Kaki- 
zaki  to  indicate  what  alterations,  etc.,  are  required 
in  the  temple  to  fit  it  for  my  residence,  etc. 

The  Governor  informs  me  that  three  rooms  in 
my  house  will  be  required  for  Japanese  officers 
who  are  to  be  with  me  night  and  day  "to  await  my 
pleasure."  I  return  a  message  that  I  require  all 
the  rooms,  and  that  under  no  circumstances  would 
I  permit  any  Japanese,  except  servants,  to  be  in 
my  house,  or  even  to  enter  it  without  my  permis- 
sion. 

The  carpenter  comes  off  at  three  p.  M.  saying  he 
cannot  find  a  stick  that  will  answer  for  my  flag- 
staff. Mr.  Heusken  at  six  p.  M.  informs  me  that 
the  Japanese  say  they  have  cut  three  trees  that 
will  answer,  but  they  cannot  be  got  to  the  ship 
before  Monday  morning.  The  authorities  have 
agreed  to  give  me  all  my  rooms,  and  to  withdraw 
their  threatened  police  force. 

Dr.  Wood,  fleet  surgeon,  tells  me  a  story  which 
strongly  illustrates  the  determination  of  the  author- 
ities to  prevent  the  people  from  having  any  inter- 
course with  us,  except  what  is  unavoidable. 

While  in  the  bazaar  a  man  came  to  him  for 
medical  advice  for  a  cutaneous  affection ;  after 
examination,  the  doctor  wrote  a  prescription  and 
gave  it  to  the  man  telling  him  (through  the  inter- 


HOUSEKEEPING  IN  SHIMODA.  49 

preter)  to  take  the  paper  on  board  the  San  Ja- 
cinto, where  medicine  would  be  given  to  him  which 
would  cure  him.  The  man,  with  many  thanks,  took 
the  paper  and  went  away.  An  hour  afterwards  he 
returned,  looking  much  alarmed.  He  came  to  the 
doctor,  and  gave  him  a  paper,  which  he  found  to 
be  the  prescription.  .  The  doctor  made  signs  that 
he  should  take  the  paper  to  the  ship.  The  man 
shook  his  head  and  again  forced  the  paper  into  the 
doctor's  hands,  making  significant  motions  with  his 
finger  that  his  head  would  be  cut  off  if  he  took  the 
paper  to  the  ship !  !  ! 

Saturday,  August  30,  1856.  Busy  writing  let- 
ters until  one  P.  M.  After  dinner  the  Yedo  officer 
came  off  with  five  others.  The  Governor  sent  his 
compliments  to  me  and  requested  me  to  visit  him 
at  the  Go-yosho  at  ten  a.  m.  of  Monday.  I  ac- 
cepted. They  then  asked  if  the  Commodore  would 
come  off  with  me.  I  said  I  presumed  he  would  if 
well  enough,  and,  as  he  was  better  to-day,  I  had 
no  doubt  he  would  come.  They  then  asked  when 
the  Governor  could  visit  the  ship,  and  Tuesday 
was  suggested.  I  discovered  that  the  invitation  to 
me  was  a  ruse  to  get  the  Commodore  to  visit  the 
Governor  first,  and  then  the  Governor  could  visit 
the  ship.  I  told  them  frankly  that,  by  the  rule  of 
our  country  and  all  Western  etiquette,  the  Commo- 
dore of  a  ship  or  squadron  makes  the  first  visit, 
and  the  reason  the  Commodore  had  not  already 


50  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

visited  the  Governor  was  the  illness  of  the  Commo- 
dore in  the  first  place,  and  then  afterwards  the  ill- 
ness of  the  Governor  ;  this  gave  them  great  satis- 
faction. The  Commodore  came  in  afterwards,  and 
he  accepted  the  invitation  for  Monday,  and  at  the 
same  time  told  them  that  he  should  have  gone  with 
me  at  my  first  visit.  This  startled  and  pleased 
them,  for  they  evidently  had  not  forgotten  that  he 
had  told  some  of  them  that  he  would  not  visit  the 
Governor  until  after  I  had  been  received.  Then 
it  was  settled  that  the  Governor  would  visit  the 
ship  on  Tuesday  at  eleven  a.  m. 

I  was  requested  not  to  land  until  as  late  a  day 
as  possible,  in  order  to  give  them  the  utmost  time 
to  prepare  the  temple  for  my  reception.  Wednes- 
day morning  was  named,  and  they  then  told  me 
that  they  would  be  there  to  receive  me  in  due  form. 

I  am  compelled  to  pay  seventy-eight  dollars  for 
a  spar  to  make  my  flag-staff  —  an  enormous  price  ! 

Learn  that  some  great  personage  has  arrived  at 
the  residence  of  the  Governor,  as  a  long  procession 
was  seen  by  some  of  our  officers,  preceded  by  her- 
alds bearing  the  coat  of  arms,  then  a  number  of 
norimono,  one  very  large,1  a  led  horse,  servants 
bearing  luggage,  etc.,  etc. 

1  According  to  the  etiquette  and  carefully  graduated  honors 
and  paraphernalia  of  feudalism.  The  large  norimono  or  palan- 
quin of  officers  of  rank  had  the  needlessly  large  and  heavy  bear- 
er's beam  curved  on  top. 


HOUSEKEEPING  IN  SHIMODA.  51 

Sunday,  August  31,  1856.  A  lovely  day.  Write 
many  letters.  Japanese  come  off  to  see  me.  I 
refuse  to  see  any  one  on  Sunday.  I  am  resolved 
to  set  an  example  of  a  proper  observance  of  the 
Sabbath  by  abstaining  from  all  business  or  plea- 
sures on  that  day.  I  do  not  mean  I  should  not  take 
a  quiet  walk,  or  any  such  amusement.  I  do  not 
mean  to  set  an  example  of  Puritanism,  but  I  will 
try  to  make  it  what  I  believe  it  was  intended  to  be, 
a  day  of  rest. 

Monday,  September  1,  1856.  At  ten  A.  M.  go 
on  shore  with  Commodore  Armstrong  and  a  suite 
of  officers.  At  the  Go-yosho  meet  the  new  Gov- 
ernor, vice-governor,  and  the  other  Governor.  It 
appears  there  are  two  Governors  and  two  vice- 
governors  for  this  place ;  they  pass  six  months  in 
Shimoda,  then  six  in  Yedo.  The  new  one  arrives 
in  pursuance  of  this  rule.  The  conversation  began 
with  complimentary  inquiries  about  health,  etc., 
etc. ;  then  I  was  asked  what  was  the  secret  object  of 
my  government  in  sending  me  to  Japan.  I  an- 
swered that  I  knew  nothing  beyond  the  fact  of  my 
appointment  and  our  treaty  rights.  I  was  asked 
if  I  should  go  to  Hakodate  ?  I  replied,  that  would 
depend  on  circumstances.  If  I  was  wanted  there  I 
should  go. 

They  then  ran  over  all  the  old  objections,  and 
civilly  asked  me  to  go  away ;  and  on  my  declining 
to  do  so,  they  asked  the  Commodore  if  he  had  no 


52  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

power  to  take  me  away.  That  was  answered  by 
saying  that  he  was  a  military  man.  His  orders 
were  to  bring  the  consul  -  general  to  Shimoda 
and  land  him  there,  and  then  his  part  was  done. 
They  asked  would  he  take  a  letter  from  the  Japan- 
ese government  to  the  American  government  ex- 
plaining their  embarrassed  position,  and  asking  for 
my  removal.  The  Commodore  answered  that  all 
communications  for  his  government  from  the  Jap- 
anese would  of  necessity  come  through  the  consul- 
general.  Next,  would  the  Commodore  write  to  his 
government  explaining  the  reasons  why  the  Jap- 
anese refused  to  receive  the  consul-general.  This 
question,  covering  as  it  did  a  positive  intention  to 
refuse  me,  excited  much  surprise,  and  received  a 
positive  negative.  I  was  then  asked  would  I  for- 
ward a  letter  from  the  Japanese  government  to 
the  American  government.  I  answered  I  would 
if  it  was  written  by  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Af- 
fairs. Would  not  the  Governor  of  Shimoda  do  as 
well  ?  He  had  full  powers  to  treat  with  me,  there- 
fore it  was  the  same  thing.  I  replied  that  it  might 
be  the  same  thing  to  them,  but  it  was  not  in  our 
eyes.  Would  I  write  to  my  government  asking 
for  my  own  removal  ?     This  was  declined. 

It  was  now  twelve  o'clock,  two  mortal  hours 
having  been  frittered  away  in  renewing  and  twist- 
ing the  foregoing  into  all  possible  forms.  Refresh- 
ments were  served.     The  Governors  retired  for  a 


HOUSEKEEPING  IN  SHIMODA.  53 

short  time,  and  after  their  return,  and  the  tiffin 
being  over,  the  Commodore  and  his  suite,  except 
Fleet  Surgeon  Wood,  retired,  leaving  me  with  the 
doctor  and  my  interpreter. 

They  now  took  another  turn,  apologized  for  de- 
laying and  wasting  so  much  time  in  trivial  ques- 
tions, but  their  excuse  was  their  want  of  knowledge 
of  such  matters  —  that  it  was  a  new  thing,  etc.,  etc. 
They  asked  me  if  I  had  any  new  negotiations  to 
propose.  I  answered  none  at  that  time.  Did  I 
intend  to  make  new  regulations  about  sailors  who 
were  shipwrecked,  or  should  I  change  the  place  of 
the  consulate  without  giving  notice  to  them?  I 
answered  no. 

They  inquired  what  were  my  powers  and  privi- 
leges as  a  consul.  To  which  I  gave  a  short  synop- 
sis of  both.  They  then  begged  me  again  to  write 
my  government  the  strong  objections  they  had  to 
receiving  a  consul  at  this  time,  stating  that  they 
had  opened  Shimoda  to  the  Dutch  and  Kussians, 
and  that  they  would  send  a  consul  here  as  soon  as 
they  knew  I  was  received  here.  (This  was  news.) 
I  replied  that  I  could  not  write  any  formal  letter ; 
that  if  I  did,  it  would  not  be  attended  to  on  such  a 
point ;  that  I  should,  as  a  matter  of  course,  give 
my  government  an  account  of  all  that  had  occurred 
here,  but  they  might  be  sure  it  would  not  elicit  any 
reply ;  that  if  they  wanted  to  communicate  with 
the  government   of   the  United   States,  let   their 


54  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  write  a  letter,  and  lie 
might  depend  on  receiving  a  speedy  answer. 

They  said  their  laws  forbade  it.  Here,  for  the 
third  or  fourth  time,  they  begged  me  not  to  be 
offended  with  them.  They  were  acting  under 
orders.  The  matter  was  new  to  them,  and  from 
their  ignorance  it  appeared  the  more  alarming.  It 
being  now  near  two,  I  prepared  to  leave  them.  I 
should  remark  that  at  tiffin-time  I  was  told  the 
boats  were  ready  to  go  to  the  frigate  to  bring 
off  my  baggage,  and  asked  if  they  should  go.  I 
answered  in  the  affirmative.  Now  this  fact  took 
place  during  a  discussion  in  which  they  had,  in 
fact,  declared  they  would  not  receive  me,  and  it 
convinced  me  they  were  acting  a  part  in  which 
they  did  not  even  hope  to  succeed. 

The  people  are  of  a  genial  disposition,  and  are 
evidently  inclined  towards  intercourse  with  foreign- 
ers, but  the  despotic  rule  of  the  country,  and  the 
terror  they  have  of  their  so-called  inflexible  laws, 
forbid  them  to  express  their  wishes. 

I  do  not  like  the  look  of  the  new  Governor.  He 
has  a  dark,  sullen  look,  and  I  fear  I  shall  have 
trouble  with  him ;  I  much  regret  the  change.  Got 
on  board  near  three  P.  M.,  and  commenced  at  once 
sending  off  my  traps;  all  of  the  supplies,  furni- 
ture, and  some  heavy  luggage  were  sent  off,  and  all 
in  pretty  good  order,  except  a  hat  in  a  leather  box, 
which  was  destroyed. 


HOUSEKEEPING  IN  SHIMODA.  55 

Tuesday,  September  2,  1856.  The  new  Gov- 
ernor and  the  old  and  vice-governor,  our  Yedo 
friend,  and  a  large  suite  came  on  board  at  ten  A.  M. 
Men  were  exercised  at  the  guns,  and  went  through 
all  the  manoeuvres  of  an  action,  marines  were  put 
through  the  manual  and  marching,  etc.,  and  a 
salute  was  fired.  Then  to  table,  and  their  perform- 
ances in  the  way  of  eating  and  drinking  were  note- 
worthy. What  was  not  eaten  was  carried  away.1 
Ham,  tongue,  salt  beef,  and  such  preserved  food 
as  is  found  on  board  a  ship,  seemed,  all  of  it,  to 
suit  their  appetites.  The  new  Governor  was  cold 
and  rude ;  not  even  the  raw  brandy,  which  he  and 
others  drank,  seemed  to  warm  his  heart,  or  thaw 
him  towards  us. 

They  asked  when  I  should  land,  and  were  told 
to-morrow  at  five  p.  M.  I  was  informed  that  two 
officers  of  rank  would  be  sent  to  escort  me  to  my 
new  residence.  The  spar  for  my  lower  flag-staff 
only  reached  the  ship  at  one  p.  M.  The  carpenter 
says  it  shall  be  done  to-morrow. 

Wednesday,  September  3,  1856.  Go  on  shore 
and  select  spot  for  flag-staff  to  stand.  Return  and 
write  letter  to  Secretary  of  State,  —  twelve  fools- 
cap pages. 

Four  p.  m.      Instead   of   the   flag-staff's   being 

1  This  was  in  good  form.  "  Leavings  are  lucky  "  is  a  Japanese 
proverb,  and  the  capacious  sleeve  of  the  old-fashioned  haori  served 
the  polite  purpose  well. 


56  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

ready  at  noon,  it  is  not  yet  completed,  and  there 
is  a  fair  chance  it  will  not  be  sent  ashore  to-night. 
Mr.  Heusken  was  taken  ashore  to  interpret  about 
the  bills,  etc.,  with  a  positive  promise  he  should  be 
brought  back  at  half  past  twelve.  At  half  past 
two  P.  M.  he  procured  a  shore  boat  and  came  off. 
So  much  for  promises.  I  decide  to  land  to-day,  so 
I  send  off  all  my  remaining  traps,  and  attended 
by  two  officials  leave  the  ship  at  five  P.  M.,  having 
taken  a  kind  leave  of  all. 

As  I  left  the  ship  the  men  manned  the  rigging 
and  gave  me  three  hearty  cheers.  The  men  in  my 
boat  responded,  and  a  counter-cheer  of  two  more 
came  from  the  ship.  Through  surf,  and  then  the 
band  on  the  quarter-deck  struck  up  "  Hail  Colum- 
bia." I  was  both  flattered  and  touched  by  this 
mark  of  attention.  It  showed  at  least  that  I  had 
so  conducted  myself  while  on  board  the  San  Jacinto 
(off  and  on,  five  months)  that  I  had  secured  the 
good  will  of  all  on  board,  and  so  I  came  on  shore 
for  my  final  landing  in  Japan.  On  reaching  my 
temple,  I  found  the  vice-governor  and  a  suite 
of  officials  awaiting  my  arrival  to  welcome  me, 
which  they  did  in  very  good  terms,  at  the  same 
time  showing  me  a  present  of  fowls,  eggs,  and  lob- 
sters from  the  Governor. 

Two  things  I  must  note  which  caused  me  some 
regret  in  the  San  Jacinto :  the  first,  that  Commo- 
dore Armstrong  was  again  quite  unwell,  with  con- 


r 


HOUSEKEEPING  IN  SHIMODA.  57 

siderable  fever,  and  the  other  that  he  and  Captain 
Bell  refused  to  permit  me  to  pay  anything  for  my 
mess  while  I  was  on  board,  saying  I  had  not  cost 
the  mess  one  cent  extra ;  that  I  never  drank  any 
wine,  nor  had  called  for  any  different  cookery  ;  that 
I  had  not  given  any  trouble,  nor  added  to  their 
expenses.  They  therefore  declined  receiving  any- 
thing from  me.  This  was  contrary  to  agreement, 
as  before  I  left  New  York  I  agreed  with  the  Com- 
modore and  Captain  Bell  that  I  should  be  allowed 
to  pay  my  share  of  the  mess. 

We  were  up  till  after  midnight  getting  copies 
made  of  my  dispatches.  The  spar  came  ashore 
just  at  dusk,  too  late  to  put  up  my  staff. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

AUTUMN   EXPERIENCES   IN   JAPAN. 

Thursday,  September  4, 1856.  Slept  very  little, 
from  excitement  and  mosquitoes ; 2  the  latter  are 
enormous  in  size.  Men  on  shore  to  put  up  my  flag- 
staff. Heavy  lot.  Slow  work.  Spar  falls,  breaks 
cross-trees ;  fortunately  no  one  hurt.  At  last  get 
a  reinforcement  from  the  ship ;  flag-staff  erected. 
Men  form  a  ring  round  it,  and  at  half  past  two 
p.  M.  of  this  day  I  hoist  the  "  First  Consular  Flag  " 
ever  seen  in  this  empire.  Grave  reflections.  Om- 
inous of  change.  Undoubted  beginning  of  the 
end.     Query,  —  if   for  the  real  good   of   Japan? 

The  San  Jacinto  left  at  five  o'clock,  saluting  me 
by  dipping  her  flag,  which  was  answered  by  me, 
and  then  she  left  me  "  alone  in  my  glory,"  not 
feeling  very  sad,  for,  in  fact,  I  was  too  busy  in 
opening  boxes,  searching  out  eatables  and  mosquito- 
nets,  to  think  of  being  down-hearted.  Go  to  bed 
at  eight  P.  M.,  and  sleep  well. 

1  One  of  the  pests  of  Japan.  The  native  Ka-cho  (mosquito- 
house  or  net)  is  made  of  cubical  shape  and  fills  the  whole  room, 
being  hung  at  the  corners  by  rings  and  hooks  in  the  supporting 
timbers  of  the  dwelling.     On  the  other  hand,  house-flies  are  few, 


AUTUMN  EXPEBIENCES  IN  JAPAN.         59 

Friday,  September  5,  1856.  Busy  all  day  in 
opening  packages,  arranging  contents,  ordering 
various  articles  from  the  Japanese.  Got  an  old 
belfry  made  into  a  nice  pigeon-house,  in  which  I 
installed  my  four  pairs  of  pigeons.  Clear  all 
day. 

Saturday,  September  6,  1856.  Same  employ- 
ment as  yesterday.  Am  getting  things  to  look  a 
little  comfortable.  Find  that  the  Ichi-bu  is  equal 
to  sixteen  hundred  sen  or  u  cash."  This  takes  two 
thirds  off  the  price  of  everything  I  buy,  as  the 
Japanese  have  only  allowed  us  sixteen  hundred 
sen  for  the  dollar,  although  the  dollar  weighs  three 
times  as  much  as  the  Ichi-bu,  consequently  is  worth 
forty-eight  hundred  sen.1 

Moriyama,  the  Yedo  official,  visited  me  to-day 
on  a  mere  visit  of  friendship,  as  he  said.  Gave 
him  cakes  and  champagne. 

Hear  a  curious  insect  of  the  cricket  tribe  to- 
night ;  sound  was  precisely  like  a  miniature  loco- 
motive at  great  speed.  Bats  in  rooms.  See  enor- 
mous tete  du  mort  spider,  the  legs  extended  five 
and  a  half  inches  as  the  insect  stood.     Unpleasant 

and   ants   are   not   numerous.     Fleas,   or   nomi    (devourers),   are 
abundant,  but  the  bedbug  is  unknown. 

1  Ichi-bu,  one  bu  or  part.  Zeni,  or  sen,  was  the  general  name 
for  the  copper  or  iron  "  cash,"  or  cast  coin  with  a  square  hole  in 
the  centre  for  stringing.  The  modern  unit  of  Japanese  money  is 
the  sen  or  cent  and  the  yen  or  dollar,  both  struck  in  a  die,  one 
hundred  of  the  former  making  one  of  the  latter. 


60  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

discovery  of  large  rats  in  numbers  running  about 
the  house.     Light  showers  in  the  night. 

Sunday,  September  7,  1856.  No  work  to-day. 
Hoist  my  flag,  which  is  to  be  flown  on  Sundays, 
holidays,  Japanese  ditto,  and  when  foreign  ships 
are  here.  The  Japanese  were  much  pleased  when 
I  told  them  I  should  hoist  my  flag  in  honor  of 
their  holidays,  and  gave  me  list  for  six  months. 

Monday,  September  8,  1856.  Weather  same  as 
yesterday.  Get  on  very  slowly  in  fitting  up  the 
house  with  shelves,  closets,  tables,  etc.,  etc.  Every 
carpenter  that  comes  to  do  anything  is  attended 
by  an  officer.  It  may  be  to  keep  him  from  steal- 
ing, but  more  likely  to  prevent  any  communication 
between  us. 

I  have  required  my  poultry  to  be  all  hens  or 
pullets.  They  inform  me  that  in  Japan  fowls  are 
always  hatched  in  pairs,  one  cock  and  one  hen, 
therefore  they  must  give  them  to  me  in  the  same 
manner.  Send  to  each  of  the  first  Governors  five 
pints  of  champagne,  one  quart  brandy,  two  quarts 
whiskey,  one  anizette.  This  afternoon  we  discover 
a  Russian  cemetery,  with  three  tombs  of  the  same 
patterns  as  the  Americans.  They  are  of  persons 
who  belonged  to  the  Russian  frigate  Diana,1  and 
died  in  1854  and   1855.     One  tomb  is  evidently 

1  Which  had  been  caught  and  destroyed  in  the  great  tidal  wave 
and  earthquake  of  December  22,  1855,  by  which  Shimoda  was 
nearly  ruined  and  depopulated. 


AUTUMN  EXPERIENCES  IN  JAPAN.         61 

that  of  an  officer,  but  I  cannot  read  the  letters  to 
make  out  his  name  or  rank. 

This  tomb  is  decorated  with  two  crosses  deeply 
cut  in  the  stone ;  one  is  four  inches,  the  other  about 
sixteen  inches  long.  The  presence  of  these  crosses 
serves  to  prove  that  the  Japanese  of  the  present 
day  have  not  that  excessive  hatred  of  the  cross1 
that  was  said  to  animate  them  formerly.  On  Sat- 
urday last  I  showed  Moriyama  my  "Mitchell's 
Atlas,"  the  frontispiece  of  which  contains  a  col- 
ored engraving  of  the  "  Landing  of  Columbus," 
in  which  a  large  cross  is  prominently  engraved. 
Moriyama  paid  no  attention  to  it,  or  rather  said 
nothing.  Spaulding  2  says  that  he  asked  a  Japan- 
ese for  his  autograph,  which  he  was  about  to  write 
in  his  (Spaulding's)  prayer-book,  but,  discovering 
a  cross  in  the  frontispiece,  he  with  great  trepida- 
tion refused  to  write. 

Tuesday,  September  9,  1856.  I  applied  on  Fri- 
day last  (5th)  for  two  boys  as  house-servants. 
Am  told  to-day  that  they  must  write  to  Yedo 
about  them.  Got  measures  of  distance  from  Jap- 
anese. I  am  anxious  to  get  my  house  arranged, 
so  that  I  may  begin  to  wander  about  the  country 
and  see  how  it  looks.  Moriyama  and  suite  visited 
me  this   afternoon.     He  said  he   came  from  the 

1  A  feeling-  which  was  locally  intense,  and  resulted  in  violent 
manifestations  almost  wholly  in  Kiushiu  and  southwestern  Hondo. 

2  J.  W.  Spaulding's  The  Japan  Expedition,  p.  225.    N.  Y.  1855. 


62  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

Governor  to  inquire  if  I  was  frightened  by  the 
thunder  of  last  night  —  a  Japanese  ruse. 

He  quietly  changed  to  the  subject  of  Japanese 
servants,  which  I  had  asked  for  last  week.  He 
said  there  were  none  at  Shimoda,  must  write  to 
other  places  ;  that  they  had  to  reflect  on  every  new 
proposition  a  long  time  ;  that  they  could  not  de- 
cide as  quickly  as  the  men  of  the  West,  etc.,  etc. 
I  replied  that  I  believed  that  servants  could  at 
once  be  procured  for  me  in  Shimoda  ;  that  it  was 
treating  me  improperly  to  leave  me  to  wait  on 
myself.  I  showed  him  my  blistered  hands  which 
had  so  become  by  my  being  compelled  to  do  work 
in  fault  of  proper  servants.  He  then  begged  me 
to  give  them  some  more  time  to  procure  them 
(i.  e.,  to  invent  lies  to  deny  them,  if  they  should 
think  best  to  do  so).  I  said  I  did  not  wish  to 
appear  impatient,  and  would  wait  for  the  remain- 
der of  the  week.  I  complained  of  the  very  great 
delay  there  was  in  executing  my  orders.  I  had 
for  many  days  been  expecting  a  number  of  slight 
things  to  be  done,  naming  some  of  them,  and  al- 
though time  enough  to  do  them  four  times  over 
had  elapsed,  yet  none  of  them  had  been  done  ; 
that  I  felt  that  I  was  neglected,  and  expected  it 
would  be  remedied. 

He  at  once  began  blowing  up  the  officers  who 
were  with  him,  and  gave  me  some  of  their  excuses 
—  a  greater  tissue  of  lies  was  never  heard.     The 


AUTUMN  EXPERIENCES  IN  JAPAN.  63 

matter  was  closed  by  an  assurance  on  his  part  that 
I  should  have  the  matters  attended  to  in  the  morn- 
ing.    After  this  he  got  quite  jolly  on  champagne. 

Thursday,  September  11,  1856.  Men  are  here 
working  on  various  matters  for  my  house.  Had  a 
flare-up  with  the  officials,  who  told  me  some  egre- 
gious lies,  in  answer  to  some  requests  I  made.  I 
told  them  plainly  I  knew  they  lied  ;  that  if  they 
wished  me  to  have  any  confidence  in  them,  they 
must  always  speak  the  truth  ;  that  if  I  asked  any- 
thing they  were  not  authorized  to  grant,  or  about 
which  they  wished  to  consult,  let  them  simply  say 
they  were  not  prepared  to  answer  me  ;  but  that  to 
tell  lies  to  me  was  treating  me  like  a  child,  and 
that  I  should  consider  myself  as  insulted  thereby  ; 
that  in  my  country  a  man  who  lied  was  disgraced, 
and  that  to  call  a  man  a  liar  was  the  grossest  in- 
sult could  be  given  him  ;  that  I  hoped  they  would 
for  the  future  —  if  they  told  me  anything  —  simply 
tell  me  the  truth,  and  that  I  should  then  respect 
them,  which  I  could  not  do  when  they  told  me 
falsehoods.     Send  Moriyama  an  atlas  as  a  present. 

Friday,  September  12,  1856.  The  vice-gover- 
nor and  Moriyama  with  the  usual  suite.  The 
object  of  the  visit  was  my  demand  for  two  boys  as 
house-servants.  It  was  a  rare  scene  of  Japanese 
deceit,  falsehood,  flattery,  and  politeness.  I  at 
last  got  them  cornered,  and  they  were  compelled 
to  promise  me  to  supply  my  wants  by  the  16th. 


64  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

They  fought  hard  to  have  the  boys  leave  at  sun- 
set and  return  at  daylight,  but  I  was  firm,  and 
carried  my  point. 

I  may  here  remark  that  at  all  these  visits  they 
readily  drink  all  I  offer  them,  wine,  cordials, 
brandy,  whiskey,  etc.,  etc.,  and  many  of  them 
drink  more  than  enough.  Spirits  of  all  kinds 
they  drink  raw. 

Saturday,  September  13,  1856.  To-day  is  the 
anniversary  of  the  patron  saint  of  Shimoda,1  and 
is  one  of  their  greatest  holidays ;  but  as  my  house 
is  not  in  order,  I  remain  at  home  arranging  books, 
etc.,  and  trying  to  eradicate  the  cockroaches,  which 
I  have  brought  from  the  San  Jacinto  by  thousands. 
They  are  a  pest  of  the  most  disagreeable  kind. 

Mr.  Heusken  went  out  to  see  what  was  doing, 
and  says  he  saw  a  large  procession  bearing  a  metal 
mirror,  and  pieces  of  white  paper  (emblem  of  the 
Shinto  religion).  A  large  drum,  borne  by  three 
men,  was  beaten  by  one.  The  fashion  of  the  drum 
was  like  the  Chinese,  i.  e.,  a  cylinder  with  one  parch- 
ment head.     He  did  not  see  any  change  of  dress. 

A  number  of  persons  were  throwing  themselves 
into  extravagant  attitudes,  and  shouting  or  scream- 
ing loudly.  The  procession  went  to  a  temple,  where 
a  large  quantity  of  holy  water  was  showered  on 
them  by  the  attending  priest.  After  their  devo- 
tions they  visited  another  temple,  after  which  he 

1  Ushijiwa  no  Jinja. 


AUTUMN  EXPERIENCES  IN  JAPAN.         65 

left.  He  did  not  see  any  of  the  theatricals  referred 
to  by  Kaempfer,  Fischer,  and  Herr  Doeff. 

Sunday,  September  14,  1856.  Some  of  my  Chi- 
nese servants  went  out  to  walk.  They  were  fol- 
lowed by  three  policemen.  They  offered  to  purchase 
some  fruit,  but  were  refused,  and  finally,  on  asking 
for  a  drink  of  water  from  a  man  who  was  by  a 
well,  he  refused  and  ran  away  with  the  drinking- 
vessel. 

Monday,  September  15,  1856.  I  expect  the 
Governor  to  visit  me  to-day,  as  I  wrote  him  on 
Saturday  asking  him  to  order  the  proper  officer  to 
receive  from  Mr.  Heusken  1500  in  silver  coin,  and 
to  give  him  the  same  weight  of  Japanese  silver 
money.  I  am  sure  he  will  refuse,  as  they  have 
heretofore  refused,  to  take  the  dollar  for  more  than 
their  Ichi-bu,  or  quarter  of  a  tael  of  silver.  The 
value  of  the  tael  is  about  $1.36.  The  Ichi-bu  is 
therefore  worth  thirty-four  cents.  We  have  here- 
tofore paid  nearly  two  hundred  per  cent,  over  price, 
from  their  only  allowing  us  thirty-four  cents  for 
our  dollar.  But  this  must  have  an  end,  and  I  am 
fully  instructed  by  my  government  to  insist  on  our 
money  being  taken  at  its  proper  value. 

In  the  afternoon,  Moriyama  and  the  third  Gov- 
ernor and  suite  visited  me,  bringing  two  boys  of 
the  ages  of  fifteen  and  sixteen  years.  Their  names 
are  Sukezo  and  Take*zo ;  the  latter  I  take  for  my 
servant,  and  the  other  for  Mr.  Heusken. 


66  MB.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

On  showing  Kaempfer's  work  on  Japan  to  the 
Governor,  he  at  once  pointed  out  the  place  of  his 
and  Moriyama's  houses  in  Yedo,  showing  the  gen- 
eral correctness  of  the  plan  of  that  city.  I  tried  in 
various  ways  to  get  at  the  population  of  Yedo  from 
them,  but  without  any  success.  They  said  it  was  a 
large  place,  that  there  was  such  a  large  number  of 
persons  going  and  coming  daily  that  it  was  out  of 
their  power  to  state  the  population,  etc.,  etc.  Com- 
plained to  the  Governor  that  my  servants  on 
Sunday  last  had  been  followed  by  policemen,  that 
they  had  been  refused  fruit  which  they  offered 
to  buy,  and  even  denied  a  drink  of  water.  I  re- 
monstrated sharply  against  such  conduct  as  dis- 
graceful, inhospitable,  etc.,  etc.,  and  they  promised 
that  the  matter  should  be  inquired  into. 

Got  some  fine  ripe  grapes  and  persimmons 
to-day,  and  am  promised  a  regular  supply  so  long 
as  they  are  in  season.  They  have  constantly  denied 
to  me  having  any  such  fruits  here,  and  it  was  only 
after  my  cook  had  seen  them  in  the  streets  on 
Sunday,  and  I  charged  them  with  falsehood  about 
fruit,  that  they  would  bring  them  to  me. 

Tuesday,  September  16, 1856.  At  eleven  o'clock 
go  out  for  a  walk.  The  paths  lead  over  towards 
Yedo  Bay.  The  views  were  enchanting,  sky  clear, 
water  blue,  white  caps  cresting  the  waves,  high- 
lands on  the  opposite  side  of  Yedo  Bay  (N.  E. 
side)  dimly  seen,  Japanese  junks  with  their  large 


AUTUMN  EXPEBIENCES  IN  JAPAN.         67 

square  sails  scudding  merrily  before  the  wind. 
Ground  here  is  cultivated  wherever  water  can  be 
procured  to  irrigate  it.  It  appears  to  be  equally 
rich  on  the  steep  hillsides  as  on  the  little  plains. 
A  streamlet  of  water  is  found  running  down  the 
gorge  between  two  hills,  the  ground  is  cut  into 
terraces,  then  the  water  is  led  from  the  highest 
parts  right  and  left  from  the  stream  to  the  upper 
terraces,  thence  it  trickles  down  to  the  next,  and  the 
next,  until  all  the  terraces  have  been  watered  down 
to  the  foot  of  the  hill.  I  never  saw  such  fine  crops 
of  rice,  or  rice  of  so  good  a  quality,  as  here.  Kice 
is  the  chief  produce.  Some  maize,  millet,  a  little 
wheat,  barley,  and  buckwheat  are  also  grown.  A 
great  variety  of  pulse  and  lentils  is  also  grown. 
I  see  that  many  oleaginous  seeds,  of  whose  names 
I  am  ignorant,  are  also  cultivated.  A  bulbous 
root,  the  Taro  of  the  South  Seas,  is  also  grown 
here.  We  pursued  our  pleasant  walk  until  we 
reached  the  highest  hill  in  this  vicinity,  and  from 
that  we  could  just  see  the  top  of  the  celebrated 
Fuji-Yama,  the  highest  mountain  in  Japan,  and 
not  many  miles  from  Yedo. 

Tuesday,  September  23,  1856.  Yesterday  at 
four  P.  M.  the  wind  began  to  blow  fresh  from 
E.  S.  E.  with  rain.  The  wind  continued  to  freshen 
until  at  eight  p.  m.  it  became  a  heavy  typhoon,1 

1  Chinese  Tai-fun  (great  wind).     See  T.  A.  S.  J.  for  scientific 
analysis  and  description  of  these  cyclones.     The  circularity  of 


68  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

which  continued  up  to  midnight,  when  it  modera- 
ted. The  wind  at  four  p.  M.  was  S.  S.  E.,  and 
continued  to  haul  to  S.  S.  W.,  at  which  point  the 
gale  was  heaviest.  After  midnight  the  wind  stood 
W.  N.  W. 

I  was  under  much  apprehension  that  my  house 
would  be  blown  down,  as  it  shook  in  every  post 
and  beam,  and  swayed  to  and  fro  as  the  heavy 
gusts  struck  it.  My  kitchen  was  partly  unroofed, 
and  flag-staff  blown  over  so  as  to  stand  at  an  angle 
of  65°.  In  the  harbor  every  junk  was  cast  ashore, 
and  many  lives  lost  and  much  property  destroyed. 
In  Kakizaki,  full  one  half  the  houses  were  blown 
down  and  some  persons  killed.  The  landing-jetty 
and  breakwater  are  totally  destroyed. 

At  Shimoda  the  bazaar  part  of  the  Go-yosho  is 
totally  destroyed,  and  a  large  amount  of  beautiful 
lacquer  and  inlaid  ware  lost.  One  hundred  houses 
blown  down  and  twenty  lives  lost.  The  Japanese 
say  it  was  the  severest  storm  ever  known  at  this 
place. 

Wednesday,  October  1, 1856.  The  Dutch  steam 
frigate    Medusa,1    Captain   Fabius,    arrived   here 

these  storms,  whose  motion  in  a  periphery  is  contrary  to  that 
made  by  the  hands  of  a  watch,  is  indicated  in  Mr.  Harris's  notes 
on  the  wind. 

1  For  eight  years  this  man-of-war  was  active  in  the  waters  of 
Japan.  On  the  11th  of  July,  1863,  having  been  fired  on  by  the 
clansmen  of  Choshiu  while  in  the  Straits  of  Shimonos^ki,  Captain 
Casembroot  shelled  the    Japanese  batteries.     The  next  year,  as 


AUTUMN  EXPERIENCES  IN  JAPAN.         69 

to-day  from  Hakodate  en  route  to  Nagasaki.  I 
went  on  board,  and  was  kindly  received  by  Captain 
Fabius,  who  gave  ine  a  salute  of  eleven  guns  on 
leaving. 

Captain  Fabius  informs  me  that  a  mine  of  supe- 
rior coals  has  been  discovered  at  Hakodate,  which 
will  greatly  reduce  the  price  of  that  article  at  that 
place,  besides  giving  a  superior  quality. 

Captain  Fabius  also  says  that  two  steam  vessels 
are  now  being  constructed  in  Holland  for  the 
Japanese,1  which  are  to  be  paid  for  as  follows : 
say  one-fifth  part  in  each  of  the  following  arti- 
cles, copper,  lacquer-ware,  etc.,  wax,  camphor,  and 
money  or  bullion  for  the  remaining  twenty  per  cent. 

Dutch  mechanics  of  every  branch  connected 
with  ship-building  have  been  brought  out  for  the 
Japanese,  and  they  are  now  giving  instruction  to 
the  Japanese  in  all  the  various  branches  above 
referred  to  at  Nagasaki. 

It  appears  that  for  some  years  the  Dutch  have 
received  a  part  of  the  returns  of  their  annual  cargo 
in  money  or  bullion. 

one  of  the  four  Dutch  ships  in  the  combined  squadrons  of  Eng- 
land, France,  the  Netherlands,  and  the  United  States,  assisted  in 
the  bombardment  and  destruction  of  the  batteries.  See  Century 
Magazine,  April,  1892,  and  De  Medusa  in  de  Wateren  van  Japan, 
door  Jhr.  F.  de  Casembroot.     The  Hague,  1865. 

1  The  beginning  of  the  modern  marine  of  Japan.  See  the  "  Ev- 
olution of  the  Japanese  Navy,"  Harper's  Weekly,  pp.  1023-26, 
1894. 


70  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

The  King  of  Holland  has,  as  it  is  said,  written  a 
letter  to  the  Emperor  of  Japan  strongly  urging 
him  to  open  his  kingdom  x  to  the  commerce  of  all 
nations. 

Friday,  October  3,  1856.  The  Medusa  sailed 
to-day  for  Nagasaki. 

Saturday,  October  4,  1856.  I  am  fifty-two 
years  old  to-day.  God  grant  that  the  short  re- 
mainder of  my  life  may  be  more  usefully  and 
honorably  spent  than  the  preceding  and  larger 
portion  of  it. 

Sunday,  October  5,  1856.  The  American 
schooner  General  Pierce  arrived  here  from  Ha- 
kodate. She  left  no  American  vessels  there,  as 
it  is  too  early  for  them.  She  comes  here  to  com- 
plete her  trading.  Both  the  Medusa  and  General 
Pierce  were  in  the  typhoon  of  the  22d  ult. 

Thursday,  October  9, 1856.  The  General  Pierce 
left  to-day.  Wrote  by  her  to  the  Secretary  of 
State,  and  others. 

Wednesday,  October  22, 1856.  I  have  not  been 
well  since  the  17th  of  September.  I  am  suffering 
from  a  bad  wound  in  my  left  foot  caused  by  tread- 
ing on  a  large  nail,  and  also  from  a  total  loss  of 
appetite,  want  of  sleep,  and  depression  of  spirits. 
I  attribute  all  but  the  wound  to  two  causes:  first, 
inability  to  take  exercise  in  the  open  air,  and 
second,  from  smoking  too  much ;  the  latter  I  must 

1  See  Matthew  Calbraith  Perry,  p.  277. 


AUTUMN  EXPERIENCES  IN  JAPAN.  71 

break  off.  As  I  am  now  much  better,  I  shall  begin 
to  go  out  for  exercise  and  hope  to  be  in  robust 
health  again.     The  climate  here  is  delightful. 

The  Japanese  have  three  times  sent  me  the  flesh 
of  what  they  call  a  wild  hog.1  The  flesh  is  pecu- 
liar ;  it  is  very  tender,  juicy,  and  of  an  excellent 
flavor ;  the  taste  is  something  between  delicate  veal 
and  the  tenderloins  of  pork.  I  am  promised  a 
full  supply  during  the  cold  weather,  which  will  be 
a  great  relief  to  my  housekeeping.  The  typhoon 
destroyed  all  the  grapes,  but  I  have  been  well  sup- 
plied with  a  great  variety  of  the  persimmon,  some 
as  large  as  a  pippin,  and  all  of  good  quality. 
Chestnuts  have  also  been  sent  to  me. 

To-day  a  horse  was  brought  to  me  to  examine 
the  saddle,  bridle,  etc.  They  are  queer  affairs, 
but  I  have  ordered  a  horse  and  trappings  to  be 
sent  to  me  from  Yedo,  not  only  for  actual  use,  but 
to  give  me  increased  importance  in  the  eye  of  the 
natives.  For  the  same  reason  I  have  ordered  a 
norimono. 

The  Japanese  officials  are  daily  becoming  more 
and  more  friendly  and  more  open  in  their  commu- 
nications with  me.  I  hope  this  will  grow  and  lead 
to  good  results  by  and  by. 

1  Shishi,  or  Sus  leucomystax,  the  wild  boar  so  numerous  in 
Japan,  and  found  also  in  Formosa,  is  said  by  Swinhoe  to  be  the 
wild  stock  of  the  Chinese  pig1.  It  casts  a  large  shadow  in  the 
native  mythology  and  caricature. 


72  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

My  poor  pigeons  have  all  been  killed  in  one 
night  by  my  cat.  I  have  sent  up  to  Yedo  for 
more.  The  Itachi,  a  species  of  large  weasel,1  is  a 
sad  enemy  to  my  hen-coops. 

Thursday,  October  23,  1856.  A  lovely  day. 
The  weather  is  as  balmy  and  mild  as  in  New  York 
in  October,  but  we  have  no  smoke  or  haze  in  the 
air,  and  at  night  the  thermometer  does  not  fall 
below  60°. 

Took  a  walk  of  some  five  miles ;  the  country  is 
very  beautiful,  is  broken  up  in  steep  volcanic  cones, 
but  every  possible  spot  is  terraced  and  cultivated 
like  a  garden.  The  labor  expended  in  cutting 
down  the  rock  to  form  some  of  these  terraces  is 
something  wonderful.  My  walk  led  me  first  to 
Vandalia  Point,  the  most  southeastern  part  of 
the  land ;  from  this  I  had  a  view  of  the  vast  Pa- 
cific, and  it  was  a  curious  thought,  that  looking 
due  south  there  was  no  land  between  me  and  Aus- 
tralia. Some  five  thousand  miles  !  Turning  more 
to  the  eastward,  I  saw  the  island  of  Oshima,2  with 
its  volcano  smoking  on  its  summit.  The  day  is 
almost  calm,  so  the  smoke  arose  like  a  mighty  pil- 

1  The  weasel  family  is  well  represented  in  Japan.  The  itachi, 
"  the  din  of  whose  rat-chasing  is  so  common  a  clamor  in  the  houses 
of  European  residents,"  has  a  husy  representative  also  in  mytho- 
logy.    For  a  scientific  description,  see  T.  A.  S.  J.,  vol.  viii.  p.  416. 

2  For  an  account  of  Vries  Island  or  Oshima,  see  T.  A.  S.  J., 
vol.  v.  p.  64,  and  vol.  xi.  p.  162.  It  was  the  place  of  exile  of  the 
famous  archer  Tame'tomo. 


AUTUMN  EXPERIENCES  IN  JAPAN.  73 

lar  for  thousands  of  feet ;  it  then  spread  out  form- 
ing a  vast  white  cloud. 

This  volcano  has  been  in  action  for  some  centu- 
ries, and  occasionally  treats  us  here  to  an  earth- 
quake, as  it  did  in  December,  1853,1  when  a  mighty 
wave  rolled  in  on  Shimoda,  encountering,  as  it 
entered,  a  flourishing  town  of  some  eight  or  ten 
thousand  souls.  When  the  wave  receded,  it  left 
only  fourteen  houses  standing,  all  the  rest,  tem- 
ples, bazaars,  and  a  large  number  of  the  inhabit- 
ants, were  swept  into  the  bay  by  the  reflux  of  this 
mighty  wave,  which  was  said  to  have  been  thirty 
feet  high ;  four  times  it  returned  ;  but  the  deed  of 
destruction  was  perfected  by  the  first  one. 

I  passed  through  the  village  of  Satora  on  the 
Yedo  Bay,  thence,  through  another  village  back  of 
Kakizaki  whose  name  I  do  not  know,  home.  I  saw 
to-day,  cherry,  peach,  pear,  and  persimmon  trees, 
grapevines,  ivy,  althea,  the  last  just  putting  out 
new  leaves,  blue  privet,  very  pretty,  many  ferns, 
pine-trees  in  variety,  cedar,  spruce,  fir,  and  cam- 
phor trees.  Camellia  japonica  forms  the  jungle 
here,  and  is  cut  for  fuel.  I  saw  a  few  bushes  of 
the  common  rose,  but  no  flowers  were  on  them. 
Among  flowers  whose  names  I  know  I  found  blue- 
bell, Canterbury,  and  Scotch  thistle,  the  first  I  ever 
saw  in  the  East,  heart's  -  ease,  yellow  shamrock, 

1  In  1892  the  smoke  ceased  and  a  great  earthquake  followed. 
The  volcanic  cone  is  2600  feet  high. 


74  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

daisy,  and  others  whose  forms  are  familiar  but 
whose  names  I  do  not  know,  and  then  many  that 
were  strange  to  me.  How  much  I  wish  I  was  a 
botanist ! 

The  fine,  clear,  bracing  air,  the  high  cultivation 
you  see  everywhere,  combined  with  views  which 
are  of  the  most  picturesque  kind,  and  which  are 
constantly  changing,  make  a  walk  here  a  thing  to 
be  desired  and  long  remembered. 

Friday,  October  24,  1856.  Walked  to  the  top 
of  the  hill  that  overlooks  the  harbor.  A  wooden 
cannon,  about  twelve  pound  bore,  is  strongly 
bound  with  bamboo  hoops  from  end  to  end  ;  the 
hoops  are  close  together.1  Here  also  are  two  old 
iron  guns,  nine-pounders,  bearing  the  shield  of  the 
Dutch  East  India  Company.  These  guns  are  only 
for  signals.  A  lookout-house  is  erected  here,  and 
a  guard  is  always  here  from  daylight  to  dark.  It 
commands  a  vast  range  of  vision,  and  a  ship  could 
in  clear  weather  be  seen  some  twenty  miles  off. 

On  my  return  I  met  a  mountain  priest,2  one  of 
a  class  whose  vow  binds  him  to  ascend  all  moun- 
tains he  can   meet  with.     He  bears  a  staff  sur- 

1  These  wooden  mortars  set  upright  are  used  to  fire  off  "  day 
fireworks  "  for  signals  or  for  amusement.  M.  E.  p.  521.  These 
"  fire-flowers,"  which  bloom  in  daylight,  have  been  introduced  at 
Coney  Island  and  other  summer  pleasure  places  in  America. 

2  Yamabushi.  The  sect  was  founded  in  the  ninth  century. 
Their  history  is  given  in  Satow  and  Hawes'  Hand  Book  for  Japan, 
pp.  408,  412. 


AUTUMN  EXPERIENCES  IN  JAPAN.  75 

mounted  with  a  circle  of  iron  ;  within  is  a  trident 
like  that  of  Siva.  Four  loose  rings  are  attached 
to  the  circle,  two  on  each  side ;  these  make  a  jing- 
ling noise  when  the  priest  shakes  his  staff.  I  get 
forty-eight  hundred  of  the  small  copper  coin  of 
Japanese  for  one  dollar ;  ten  of  these  given  to  the 
priest  produced  a  long  prayer  and  a  great  jingling 
of  his  rings.  The  priest  was  of  a  good  pleasant 
countenance  and  very  robust  in  appearance. 

Saturday,  October  25,  1856.  The  vice-governor 
visited  me  to-day.  He  borrowed  the  "  Treaties  of 
the  United  States  with  Foreign  Nations  "  for  the 
purpose  of  having  it  translated.  It  will  be  a  heavy 
work  for  them,  as  they  will  have  to  do  it  by  means 
of  a  dictionary  in  English  and  Dutch.  The  two 
Kamis,1  who  are  Governors  here,  are  to  visit  me 
on  Thursday  next. 

I  have  visited  the  prison  of  Shimoda.  It  corre- 
sponds generally  with  Golownin's  description  of 
the  prisons  at  Hakodate  and  Matsmai,  but  what 
he  calls  cages  are  simply  cells  made  of  squared 
joists  of  timber  placed  some  three  inches  apart.  I 
am  sure  they  are  larger  and  not  so  solitary  as  the 
stone  cells  in  the  prisons  of  the  United  States. 
Imprisonment  as  a  punishment  for  the  Japanese 
is  unknown :  the  punishments  are  either  death  or 
whipping,  and  the  accused  is  only  in  prison  until 
he  can  be  tried.     The  Japanese  code  is  somewhat 

1  Kami  means  superior  or  lord. 


76  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

sanguinary.  Death  is  inflicted  for  murder,  arson, 
burglary,  grand  larceny,  and  for  violent  deport- 
ment towards  a  father.  The  parent  cannot  put 
his  children  to  death,  but  on  complaint  of  disobe- 
dience of  his  children  the  government  will  punish 
the  child  with  whipping,  or  death,  according  to  the 
nature  of  the  offense.  The  Japanese  declare  that 
infanticide  of  legitimate  children  is  unknown  in 
Japan.1  In  cases  where  the  parents  are  too  poor 
to  bear  the  incumbrance  of  an  additional  child  the 
government  makes  an  allowance  to  them  for  the 
purpose.  Paupers  are  placed  with  their  relatives 
and  an  allowance  made  for  their  support,  but  if 
the  pauper  goes  out  begging,  the  allowance  ceases. 
There  is  no  law  to  prohibit  begging,  and,  in  fact,  it 
would  be  difficult  to  frame  one  in  a  country  where 
all  the  priesthood,  beside  a  large  number  of  monks, 
hermits,  and  nuns,  live  solely  on  charity.  There 
were  three  prisoners  in  the  jail  awaiting  trial,  two 
for  gambling  and  one  for  a  small  larceny ;  they 
were  to  be  tried  to-day,  and  will  either  go  home 
acquitted  or  else  well  whipped  to-night.  Whip- 
ping is  inflicted  with  a  small  bamboo  or  rattan 
over  the  shoulders  or  back.  The  Japanese  can- 
not understand  our  imprisonment  for  punishment.2 

1  See  the  actual  facts,  so  different  froni  this  statement,  in  Pro- 
fessor Garret  Dropper's  paper  on  "  The  Population  of  Japan  dur- 
ing the  Tokugawa  Era  "  in  T.  A.  S.  J.  vol.  xxiii. 

2  There    are  many  more  and   larger   prisons  in  Japan  of  the 


AUTUMN  EXPERIENCES  IN  JAPAN.  77 

They  say  for  a  man  to  be  in  a  good  house  and 
have  enough  of  food  and  clothing  cannot  be  a 
punishment  to  a  large  portion  of  men,  who  only 
care  for  their  animal  wants  and  have  no  self- 
respect,  and  as  they  never  walk  for  pleasure  they 
cannot  think  it  hard  to  be  deprived  of  wandering 
about. 

Monday,  October  27,  1856.  Took  a  walk  over 
the  hills  and  up  the  valley  of  Shimoda,  making  a 
circuit  of  some  ten  miles,  part  of  it  on  the  road 
to  Yedo.  This  is  simply  a  foot  or  bridle-path  of 
some  six  to  eight  feet  wide,  and  is  only  practicable 
on  foot  or  on  horseback.  Every  new  walk  I  take 
shows  me  more  and  more  of  the  patient  industry 
of  the  Japanese,  and  creates  new  admiration  of 
their  agriculture,  while  the  landscape  from  the  top 
of  the  hills,  overlooking  the  terraces  rising  one 
above  another  like  the  steps  of  a  giant  staircase, 
and  running  over  the  rich  fields  of  the  valley,  and 
terminating  with  a  glimpse  of  the  blue  water  of 
the  sea,  forms  a  series  of  charming  views  which 
are  well  worthy  the  pencils  of  able  artists.  So  far 
as  buildings  or  monuments  are  concerned,  there  is 
nothing  to  mark  the  age  of  the  country. 

There  are  no  venerable  ivy-grown  ruins  ;  —  no 

M&ji  era  (1868-1895)  as  compared  with  the  times  when  arrest, 
trial,  decapitation,  and  burial  often  occurred  on  the  same  day,  and 
when  the  death  penalty  was  attached  to  over  two  hundred  offenses. 
Prison  reform  is  based  on  the  best  Western  models,  and  penology 
is  carefully  studied. 


78  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

temples  bearing  the  marks  of  the  tooth  of  time 
on  their  stones.  The  temples  and  houses  are  from 
necessity  built  from  wood  or  bamboo  wattles  plas- 
tered with  clay,  as  a  stone  edifice  would  be  very 
dangerous  in  a  country  so  frequently  visited  with 
violent  earthquakes.1 

In  my  rambles  over  the  hills  I  have  met  with 
some  proofs  that  Shimoda  has  been  settled  for 
many  centuries,  —  I  mean  in  the  stone  quarries.2 
The  stone  is  a  soft  and  light-colored  sandstone 
which  is  easily  wrought.  In  many  places  you  see 
the  face  of  the  quarry  in  a  smooth  perpendicular 
wall,  cut  down  in  quarrying  the  stones.  The 
great  number  of  these  quarries,  their  vast  size,  and 
the  fact  that  the  debris  in  many  places  is  covered 
with  trees  of  the  largest  size,  all  go  to  prove  the 
antiquity  of  the  place.  This  stone  is  used  for 
foundations,  for  flagging,  for  ovens  and  cooking- 
places,  for  tombstones,  for  altars,  for  images,  and, 
in  fact,  for  all  the  purposes,  except  houses,  to 
which  stone  can  be  applied.  I  see  that  some  of  it 
is  shipped  away  to  other  places. 

The  cotton  here  is  a  second  crop  which  springs 
up  just  before  the  first  is  taken  from  the  ground  ; 

1  Though  in  recent  years  stone  buildings  have  been  numer- 
ously erected  in  Japanese  cities,  yet  the  injury  done  to  them  in 
earthquakes  is  greater  than  to  wooden  houses. 

2  Most  of  the  new  government  buildings  in  Tokio  have  been 
built  of  Shimoda  stone,  which,  at  present,  is  the  chief  product  of 
the  port. 


AUTUMN  EXPERIENCES  IN  JAPAN.  79 

the  stool  and  bolls  are  small,  and  the  latter  few  in 
number,  but  the  staple  is  long,  strong,  and  fine. 
The  hemp  of  Japan  is  probably  the  best  in  the 
world.  It  is  water-rotted,  and  for  this  purpose  a 
small  rivulet  is  dammed  up  to  give  sufficient  depth 
to  immerse  the  hemp,  which  is  neatly  put  up  in 
cylindrical  bales. 

There  is  quite  a  number  of  water-mills  on  the 
principal  stream  of  Shimoda.  They  are  driven  by 
undershot  wheels,  and  are  used  for  grinding  rice, 
buckwheat,  etc.  Rice,  being  the  staple  food  of  the 
country,  is  of  course  the  chief  occupation  of  the 
mills.  The  water  is  sadly  mismanaged,  and  a 
small  increase  of  labor  would  convert  many  of  the 
mills  to  an  overshot  power,  but  they  appear  to  be 
either  ignorant  of  the  difference  of  power,  or  indif- 
ferent as  to  its  application. 

There  are  deer,  wolves,  hares,  and  wild  monkeys 
among  the  hills  of  this  place. 

I  was  much  moved  to-day  on  finding  in  the 
woods  a  bachelor's-button.  This  humble  flower, 
with  its  sweet  perfume,  brought  up  so  many  home 
associations  that  I  was  inclined  to  be  homesick  and 
miserable  for  the  space  of  an  hour. 

I  am  now  trying  to  learn  Japanese.  I  have 
begun  with  some  words  to  my  servants,  and  can 
give  them  all  the  orders  necessary  for  my  attend- 
ance. 

Wednesday,  October  29,   1856.     The  Japanese 


80  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

are  much  surprised  to  see  me  bathing  in  cold 
water,1  and  particularly  when  the  thermometer 
stands  at  50°,  as  it  does  this  morning. 

The  Japanese  are  a  clean  people ;  every  one 
bathes  every  day.  The  mechanic,  day-laborers,  — 
all,  male  and  female,  old  and  young,  —  bathe  every 
day  after  their  labor  is  completed.  There  are  many 
public  bath-houses  in  Shimoda.  The  charge  is  six 
sen,  or  the  eighth  part  of  one  cent.  The  wealthy 
people  have  their  baths  in  their  own  houses,  but 
the  working  classes,  all,  of  both  sexes,  old  and 
young,  enter  the  same  bath-room,  and  there  per- 
form their  ablutions  in  a  state  of  perfect  nudity. 

Thursday,  October  30,  1856.  This  will  be  re- 
membered hereafter  as  an  important  day  in  the 
history  of  Japan. 

The  laws  forbidding  the  Imperial  Governor  of  a 
city  to  visit  any  foreigner  at  his  residence  is  to-day 
to  be  broken,  and  I  am  to  receive  the  two  Gov- 
ernors with  the  vice-governor  in  a  friendly  and 
informal  way. 

They  arrived  about  noon  with  a  large  suite,  but 

1  "  The  charm  of  the  Japanese  system  of  hot  bathing  is  proved 
by  the  fact  that  almost  all  the  foreigners  resident  in  the  country 
abandon  their  cold  tubs  in  its  favor.  There  seems,  too,  to  be 
something  in  the  climate  which  renders  hot  baths  healthier  than 
cold.  By  persisting  in  the  use  of  cold  water  one  man  gets  rheum- 
atism, a  second  gets  fever,  a  third  a  never-ending  continuance 
of  colds  and  coughs.  So  nearly  all  end  by  coming  round  to  the 
Japanese  plan."     T.  J.  p.  54. 


AUTUMN  EXPERIENCES  IN  JAPAN.         81 

only  four  came  into  my  private  apartments  with 
the  two  Governors  and  vice-governor.  The  Gov- 
ernors were  very  anxious  on  the  subject  of  coast 
surveys,  and  inquired  where  Lieutenant  Rodgers 1 
was,  whether  he  would  return  here  to  survey, 
whether  the  American  government  had  given  or- 
ders for  any  new  expedition  to  survey  the  coasts, 
etc.,  and  if  I  knew  what  the  English  intended 
doing  in  the  matter  of  surveys,  etc.,  etc. 

I  told  them  that  Lieutenant  Kodgers  had  re- 
turned to  the  United  States,  that  I  did  not  know 
of  any  intended  expedition  here  for  a  similar  pur- 
pose, and  that  the  English  had  no  such  squadron 
out  here  at  present. 

They  wished  me  to  promise  to  order  off  any 
vessels  that  might  come  here  for  such  a  purpose, 
but  I  told  them  that  would  be  out  of  my  power.  I 
then  informed  them  that  the  United  States  govern- 
ment and  all  the  other  governments  of  the  world 
expended  large  sums  in  surveying  their  coasts  and 
harbors,  and  that  those   surveys   were   published 

1  "  Fighting  John  Rodgers,"  U.  S.  N.,  was  born  in  Maryland  in 
1812,  served  in  the  Seminole  and  Mexican  wars,  and  as  com- 
mander of  the  Vincennes  was  from  1853  to  1856  in  charge  of  the 
United  States  Surveying  and  Exploring  Expedition  to  the  North 
Pacific,  China  Sea,  etc.,  which  penetrated  into  the  Arctic  seas. 
See  Habersheim's  The  North  Pacific  Exploring  Expedition,  Phil- 
adelphia, 1857.  In  the  Civil  War  he  commanded  the  Galena  and 
monitor  Weehawken  in  the  battle  with  the  ironclad  Atlanta.  He 
was  made  Rear- Admiral  in  1869,  and  in  1871  commanded  the 
Korean  expedition.    See  Korea,  the  Hermit  Nation,  chapter  xlvi. 


82  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

with  charts  so  that  any  nation  in  the  world  could 
have  them ;  that  the  whole  world  was  surveyed 
except  Japan ;  that  these  surveys  made  many  books, 
and  that  all  shipmasters  purchased  these  books,  for 
they  were  sold  freely  to  all,  before  they  went  on 
any  voyage  to  a  part  of  the  world  that  was  new  to 
them ;  that  all  this  was  done  for  the  security  of 
ships,  it  being  the  great  object  of  all  civilized 
nations  to  encourage  commerce,  which,  next  to 
agriculture,  was  the  great  spring  of  prosperity  of 
nations ;  that  for  the  same  reasons  both  America 
and  England,  as  well  as  other  nations,  had  hun- 
dreds of  lighthouses  on  their  coasts,  and  the  chan- 
nels leading  into  their  harbors  were  carefully  marked 
out  with  buoys,  etc.  All  of  this  astonished  them 
much,  and  appeared  to  remove  some  of  their  anx- 
iety, although  at  the  beginning  they  told  me  that  it 
was  a  matter  of  life  and  death  to  them,  as  they 
must  perform  the  hara-kiri  or  "  happy  dispatch  " 1 
(suicide)  if  the  surveys  went  on.2     Moriyama  has 

1  The  word  hara-kiri,  which  means  belly-cut,  is  rarely  used  by 
Japanese  gentlemen,  who  prefer  the  term  seppuku  (opening  of  the 
abdomen)  for  the  same  reason  that  in  our  polite  society  we  prefer 
the  trisyllable  of  uncertain  Latin  to  the  homely  Anglo-Saxon 
word.  The  custom,  introduced  possibly  from  the  Malays,  in 
vogue  in  the  Middle  Ages,  developed  into  a  privilege  about  the 
fifteenth  century.  It  is  now  nearly  but  not  wholly  obsolete,  cases 
being  known  even  in  1894. 

2  Japan  has  now  one  of  the  best  lighthouse  systems  in  the 
world,  with  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  lighthouses  or  lightships, 
and  the  Bureau  of  Hydrography  ranks  very  high.  Charts  are 
cheap  and  excellent. 


AUTUMN  EXPERIENCES  IN  JAPAN.  83 

been  fasting  for  some  fifty  days  on  this  account, 
but  he  was  so  much  consoled  by  what  I  said  that 
he  ate  flesh  meat  most  heartily.  He  thanked  me 
warmly  for  my  friendly  deportment  towards  them, 
and  got  down  on  his  knees  and  prayed  fervently 
for  my  welfare.  My  company  partook  of  my  re- 
freshments (which  were  prepared  in  our  manner) 
without  any  hesitation,  and  by  their  eating  showed 
their  approval.  They  drank  punch,  brandy,  whiskey, 
cherry  bounce,  champagne,  and  cordials,  but  the 
punch  and  champagne  were  their  favorite  drinks. 
The  last  Governor  warmed  entirely,  and  showed 
himself,  like  the  other  Japanese,  of  a  most  genial 
temper.  They  did  not  eat  or  drink  to  excess  in 
any  respect,  and  their  conduct  during  the  whole 
visit  was  that  of  well-bred  persons.  I  made  the 
second  Governor  a  present  of  a  Colt's  pistol  of  five 
discharges,  with  which  he  was  much  pleased.  After 
staying  about  four  hours,  they  took  their  leave 
with  abundant  thanks  for  my  hospitality.  This 
P.  M.  they  brought  me  a  leg  of  real  venison ;  it  is 
excellent,  tender,  juicy,  and  well  flavored. 


CHAPTER  V. 

THE   VISIT   OF  THE   RUSSIANS. 

Saturday,  November  8,1  1856.  The  Russian 
corvette  Olivoutsa,  Commodore  Possiet 2  and 
Commander  Korsanoff.  She  brought  with  her  a 
schooner  built  by  the  Russians  at  the  river 
Amoor,  for  the  Japanese,  and  is  a  present,  as  I 
understand.  The  schooner  is  built  on  the  same 
lines  as  the  one  before  seen  by  me,  and  makes  an 
aggregate  of  jive  schooners  (all  on  the  same 
model)  now  owned  by  the  Japanese. 

Commodore  Possiet  is  the  bearer  of  the  ratified 
treaty  made  with  Japan,  and  will  probably  remain 
here  some  weeks.  I  went  on  board  the  corvette 
soon  after  she  anchored,  and  was  much  pleased  with 
the  officers.  The  corvette  is  a  poor  affair,  old  in 
age  and  older  in  model.  She  is  armed  with  old- 
fashioned  carronades,  and  looks  to  me  like  one  of 
the  old  ships  of  the  Russian  American  Company, 
although  she  now  wears  the  Imperial  flag.  I  was 
not  saluted  by  the  corvette.  I  also  went  on  board 
the  schooner ;  she  has  a  pretty  cabin,  very  hand- 

1  9th  by  mistake,  in  the  journal. 

2  After  whom  the  Russian  seaport  near  the  Korean  frontier, 
and  the  possible  terminal  of  the  trans-Siberian  railway,  is  named. 


THE   VISIT  OF  THE  RUSSIANS.  85 

somely  furnished ;  has  oilcloth  on  the  floor,  tables 
of  fine  woods,  and  the  hangings  are  of  mazarine 
blue  velvet.  She  is  commanded  by  Lieutenant 
Kolaxaltsoff.  I  presume  she  is  intended  as  a 
present  on  the  exchange  of  ratifications. 

Commodore  Possiet  promised  me  a  copy  of  the 
Eussian  treaty  with  Japan,  and  in  return  I  am  to 
give  him  the  American  and  Dutch  treaties  with 
Japan,  and  the  treaty  with  Siam,  which  I  made 
when  at  Bangkok. 

Tuesday,  November  11,  1856.  Captains  Pos- 
siet and  Corasacoff,  the  lieutenant  commanding 
the  schooner,  and  three  young  officers  dined  with 
me  to-day.  Previous  to  this  I  had  a  visit  from 
two  of  the  young  officers  ;  they  spoke  French 
very  well.  I  never  passed  a  more  agreeable  even- 
ing. The  Russians  behaved  like  polished  men  of 
the  world,  and  at  my  table  they  did  not  merit  the 
charge  so  often  brought  against  them  of  being 
hard  drinkers.  They  ate  with  good  appetites 
(and  my  dinner  was  both  good  and  abundant) 
and  took  their  wine  in  moderation.  I  do  think 
the  same  number  of  American  or  English  officers 
would  have  drunk  twice  the  quantity  of  wine  the 
Russians  did.  Captain  Possiet  informed  me  that 
the  vice-governor  told  him  that  he  wished  him  not 
to  pay  any  money  at  present,  for  that  the  American 
consul-general  had  made  a  demand  on  the  govern- 
ment to  have  a  just  value  put  on  the  dollar,  and 


86  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

that  they  expected  a  favorable  answer  in  a  few 
days. 

Captain  Possiet  brought  me  a  copy  of  the  Rus- 
sian treaty  with  Japan,  which  I  have  had  translated 
from  the  Dutch.  He  gave  me  a  Dutch  translation, 
and  I  shall  send  it  to  the  Secretary  of  State. 

Thursday,  November  13,  1856.  The  Russians 
came  on  shore  this  morning  early  to  arrange  my 
flag-staff.  The  Captain  Possiet  paid  me  a  visit 
quite  alone.  He  desires  that  our  visits  should  be 
without  ceremony,  and  as  between  friends ;  that 
I  should  make  myself  at  home  with  him,  and  he 
will  do  the  same  with  me  ;  all  this  I  was  quite 
willing  to  accede  to.  We  had  much  conversation 
about  the  harbor  of  Shimoda,  its  insecurity,  its 
small  size,  the  incapacity  of  Shimoda  to  furnish 
supplies  even  to  one  ship  of  war,  and  the  total 
absence  of  a  commercial  population.  We  agreed 
on  the  absolute  necessity  of  an  exchange  of  Shi- 
moda for  another  port. 

Captain  Possiet  gave  me  a  copy  of  a  letter  he 
wrote,  by  order  of  Admiral  Pontaitine,  after  the 
wreck  of  the  Diana  frigate,  on  the  subject  of  the 
harbor  of  Shimoda,  to  the  Japanese  authorities. 

Captain  Possiet  informs  me  that  had  the  Diana 
not  met  with  her  misfortune,  she  would  have 
examined  a  number  of  harbors  on  the  east  coast 
of  Japan,  and  he  is  of  opinion  that  an  exchange 
would  have  been  made  of  Shimoda  for  some  more 
eligible  place. 


THE  VISIT  OF  THE  RUSSIANS.  87 

The  Russian  sailors  finished  work  on  my  flag- 
staff about  four  p.  M.,  when  they  left.  I  gave 
them  a  dinner,  with  plenty  of  brandy  and  tea,  and 
I  gave  one  dollar  to  each  of  the  five  men  who 
were  employed  in  the  work. 

Friday,  November  14,  1856.  I  dined  with  Mr. 
Heusken  on  board  the  corvette  Volutsa.  Cap- 
tain Possiet  gave  me  a  salute  of  thirteen  guns, 
although  by  the  rules  of  the  Russian  service  a 
consul-general  is  saluted  with  eleven  guns.  Cap- 
tain Possiet  told  me  that  he  gave  me  thirteen  guns 
so  that  I  should  not  receive  less  than  he  gave  the 
Japanese  Governor  of  Shimoda.  I  passed  a  very 
agreeable  evening.  The  more  I  see  of  the  Rus- 
sian officers  the  more  I  am  pleased  with  them. 
They  are  polished  in  manner  and  are  exceedingly 
well  informed.  There  is  scarcely  one  of  them  that 
does  not  speak  two  or  more  languages. 

They  speak  in  high  terms  of  French  generals 
and  soldiers.  They  say  the  first  have  skill  equal 
to  any  in  the  world,  and  the  last  are  unsurpassed 
in  military  courage  and  enthusiasm.  The  Eng- 
lish, on  the  contrary,  they  put  directly  opposite,  — 
generals  without  skill,  and  men  without  one  of  the 
first  requisites  of  a  soldier,  except  mere  bulldog 
courage ;  that  to  deprive  an  English  army  of  its 
full  supply  of  food  and  comfortable  quarters  is  to 
demoralize  it;  that  an  English  soldier  dreads  an 
attack  on  his  belly  more  than  a  blow  aimed  at  his 


88  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

head.  A  current  remark  at  Sebastopol  during 
the  siege  was,  that  A  or  B  had  been  out  on  so 
many  occasions  of  sorties.  The  question  was  in- 
stantly asked,  Against  which  force  ?  If  against  the 
English,  the  querist  would  shrug  his  shoulders 
and  say,  "  That  was  nothing ;  "  but  if  against  the 
French  he  would  say,  "  Ah !  then  you  had  some- 
thing to  do." 

Constant  conversations  are  held  by  Captain 
Possiet  with  the  Japanese  on  the  subject  of  finally 
and  fully  opening  Japan  to  the  commerce  of  the 
world.  All  agree  that  it  is  only  a  question  of 
time,  and  Moriyama  Yenoske  goes  so  far  as  to 
place  it  less  than  three  years  distant. 

All  these  things  will  help  to  prepare  the  way 
for  me  in  my  attempt  to  make  a  treaty  which  shall 
at  once  open  Japan  (at  different  dates  for  different 
ports)  to  our  commerce. 

Sunday,  November  16,  1856.  I  regularly  read 
the  service  of  the  "  Protestant  Episcopal  Church 
of  the  United  States "  every  Sunday.  I  am 
probably  the  first  resident  of  Japan  who  ever 
used  that  service.  How  long  will  it  be  before 
that  same  service  will  be  used  in  Japan  in  conse- 
crated churches  ? 

It  is  to  me  one  of  the  pregnant  facts  that  grow 
up  daily  under  my  observation,  and  which  are  the 
natural  result  of  my  residence  here  in  a  protected 
capacity. 


THE  VISIT  OF  THE  EUSSIANS.  89 

Tuesday,  November  18,  1856.  I  wrote  to  the 
Governor  yesterday,  urging  a  reply  to  my  letters 
on  the  subject  of  the  currency.  To-day  the  vice- 
governor,  a  high  official,  and  my  old  friend  Mori- 
yama  Yenoske  came  to  visit  me.  They  apologize 
for  their  long  absence,  saying  the  arrival  of  the 
Russians  had  kept  them  much  occupied,  etc.,  etc. 
They  brought  me  a  cage  containing  six  pretty 
tame  pigeons,  a  present  from  the  Governor,  and 
they  told  me  that  he  had  written  to  Yedo  expressly 
for  them,  as  they  are  scarce  in  Japan. 

I  knew  the  visit  of  ceremony  and  the  present 
were  all  a  pretense,  and  that  something  else  was 
behind,  and  a  short  time  brought  it  out.  They  (as 
if  casually)  said  my  letter  of  yesterday  to  the  Gov- 
ernor had  been  at  once  forwarded  to  Yedo  by  a 
"  special  post,"  and  that  as  soon  as  an  answer  was 
received  the  Governor  would  let  me  know  it.  I 
told  them  I  was  happy  to  see  them  at  all  times, 
but  I  could  not  consent  to  receive  verbal  answers 
to  or  notices  of  my  written  communications.  I 
told  them  that  I  knew  that  the  Shogun  had  written 
at  least  two  letters  to  the  King  of  Holland ;  that 
the  high  officers  of  Japan  had  written  more  than 
thirty  letters  to  the  Russians  within  the  last  two 
years  ;  and  that  numerous  letters  had  been  written 
also  to  Captain  Fabius  of  the  Dutch  steam  frigate 
Medusa,  when  he  was  here  ;  that  I  could  not  con- 
sent to  be  treated  with  less  formality  than  they 


90  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

had  shown  to  the  Russians  and  Dutch,  and  there- 
fore I  must  insist  on  written  answers  to  my  letters. 

Saturday,  November  22,  1856.  The  Russians 
have  presented  to  the  Japanese  all  the  guns  that 
were  on  board  the  frigate  Diana.  They  consist  of 
18  short  24-pounders,  30  long  24-pounders,  4  Paix- 
han  68-pounders,  shell  guns. 

The  Russians  are  assisting  the  Japanese  in  get- 
ting up  all  the  fittings  necessary  for  mounting  the 
guns  properly,  such  as  screws,  quoins,  etc.,  etc., 
etc.,  all  of  which  were  lost  when  the  Diana  sunk. 

Monday,  November  24,  1856.  The  Go-yosho 
people  came  to  inform  me  that  my  Chinese  cook 
and  tailor  went  to  the  apothecary's  shops  in  Shi- 
moda  yesterday  and  asked  for  opium,1  and  were 
told  they  had  none  ;  but  the  Chinese  characters 
being  on  the  drawers,  they  discovered  it,  and  de- 
manded it  in  my  name,  and  with  a  show  of  vio- 
lence. They  took  the  whole  they  found  in  two 
shops,  which  was  all  the  opium  there  was  in  Shi- 
moda.  They  said  to  me  that  opium  was  only  used 
as  a  medicine,  and  that  it  was  unjust  that  two 
men  should  have  the  whole  of  it,  particularly  as  it 
was  not  wanted  for  medical  purposes  ;  they  respect- 
fully  asked   that   I  would   order   the  Chinese  to 

1  Opium-smoking'  has  been  forbidden  under  very  severe  penal- 
ties by  the  Japanese  government,  and  the  importation  of  the  drug 
except  for  medicinal  purposes  is  not  allowed.  Laudanum  is  sold 
under  the  Japanized  Dutch  name  of  Rauda  there  being  no  "  1 " 
in  Japanese. 


THE  VISIT  OF  THE  RUSSIANS.  91 

restore  the  greater  part  of  it.  I  gave  orders  that 
the  whole  should  be  taken  from  them.  Mr.  Heus- 
ken  got  a  lump  of  some  six  ounces  from  the  tailor, 
but  the  cook  had  dissolved  his  in  water  to  refine  it, 
in  the  Chinese  way,  so  as  to  make  it  fit  for  smoking, 
and  refused  to  give  it  up.  I  went  to  him  myself. 
He  was  very  surly,  and  after  some  time  brought 
me  a  dish  containing  a  small  quantity  of  sediment 
and  water.  I  demanded  the  filtered  liquid,  and  it 
was  not  until  I  had  given  him  his  choice  between 
a  prison  and  the  surrender  of  the  drug  that  he 
gave  it  up.  The  lump  was  restored  to  the  Japan- 
ese, but  they  said  they  could  do  nothing  with  the 
solution,  so  that  was  thrown  away.  I  directed  the 
officers  to  tell  the  shopkeepers  that  my  people  were 
not  to  be  supplied  with  opium,  sake,1  or  any  kind 
of  intoxicating  beverage. 

Tuesday,  November  25,  1856.  Evacuation  Day 
in  New  York.  What  recollection  of  my  "  soldier 
life  "  this  day  brings  up,  my  marching  up  and  down 
Broadway,  Bowery,  Hudson  Street,  Greenwich 
Street  to  the  Battery,  to  the  Park,  and  there  firing 
off  "  real  guns,"  as  Mr.  Mantalini  said. 

Wednesday,  November  26,  1856.  Moriyama 
Yenoske  came  to  see  me,  as  he  said,  with  a  mes- 
sage from  the  Governor.  Three  horses  have  been 
offered,  but  none  suit  the  Japanese ;  one  is  too  old 

1  Rice-beer.     By  distillation,  liquors  of  high  alcoholic  strength 
may  be  obtained. 


92  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

and  clumsy,  one  too  young  and  vicious,  the  third  is 
too  ill-looking  for  me. 

The  Governor  is  a  good  judge  of  a  horse,  and 
has  promised  to  select  one  that  will  suit.  He  says 
he  is  responsible  for  my  personal  safety  to  both 
the  American  and  Japanese  governments,  and  if 
I  should  be  killed  by  a  vicious  horse,  he  would 
have  to  perform  the  hara-kiri.  I  told  Yenoske 
that  I  should  be  satisfied  with  any  horse  the  Gov- 
ernor might  select,  etc.  Commodore  Possiet  and 
Mr.  Heusken  took  a  walk  southwest  from  Shi- 
moda,  and  were  followed  by  a  Gobangoshi.1  The 
Commodore  in  a  decided  and  stern  manner  ordered 
him  to  go  about  his  business  and  not  to  follow  him, 
and  the  man  left  them.  But  soon  afterwards  he 
reappeared,  and  pertinaciously  kept  with  them. 
The  Commodore  then  seized  the  man,  and  gave 
him  a  thorough  shaking,  and  when  he  was  released 
the  Gobangoshi  started  off  running  like  a  deer, 
and  no  more  appeared. 

Monday,  December  1, 1856.  Visit  the  corvette, 
but  am  soon  interrupted  by  a  lot  of  Japanese  offi- 
cials who  came  to  see  the  Commodore  on  the  sub- 
ject of  boat  landings.  Commodore  Perry's  addi- 
tional articles  provided  that  certain  landing-places 
should  be  provided  at  Shimoda  and  Hakodate,  and 

1  Goshi  were  independent  farmers  who  owned  their  own  land, 
but  in  time  of  war  or  public  danger  aided  the  feudal  lord  of  the 
country  with  personal  service. 


THE  VISIT  OF  THE  RUSSIANS.  93 

the  Japanese  now  wish  to  confine  ns  to  landing  at 
these  places  alone.  I  resist  the  proposition,  as 
does  the  Commodore. 

In  order  to  have  a  clear  understanding  about 
the  orders  I  give,  I  have  procured  a  book  in  which 
I  write  every  order,  and  there  are  columns  left  in 
which  to  enter  the  name  of  the  interpreter  to 
whom  the  order  was  given,  with  the  date  of  it,  and 
another  column  for  the  date  at  which  it  was  exe- 
cuted. By  this  means  I  shall  know  whether  my 
orders  have  been  given  by  Mr.  Heusken  or  for- 
gotten by  him,  and  also  whether  the  interpreter 
neglects  them  after  he  has  received  them.  So  far 
it  works  to  a  charm,  and  I  have  had  more  done  in 
the  last  two  days  than  in  the  previous  fortnight. 

Friday,  December  5,  1856.  The  Commodore 
sends  me  word  that  the  ratified  treaties  are  to  be 
exchanged  on  Sunday  next,  and  invites  me  to 
"  assist  "  on  the  occasion. 

I  must  regret  that  I  cannot  attend.  I  am  suf- 
fering from  a  very  severe  cold  and  great  hoarse- 
ness ;  but  the  most  important  reason  is,  that  I  can- 
not consistently  "  assist  "  in  any  such  matter  on  a 
Sunday.  From  the  time  of  my  arrival  I  have 
refused  to  attend  to  any  kind  of  business  on  that 
day ;  and  after  a  short  time  the  Japanese  ceased 
to  ask  it  of  me.  Should  I  now  join  the  Russians, 
I  shall  contradict  all  my  previous  acts  on  this 
account,  and  lose   my  character  for   consistency, 


94  MB.  HARMS' S  JOURNAL. 

a  point  that  cannot  be  too  carefully  watched  in 
dealing  with  people  like  the  Japanese.  They 
delight  to  convict  a  man  of  inconsistency. 

Sunday,  December  7,  1856.  The  corvette  fired 
a  salute  as  the  Commodore  landed  about  eleven 
A.  M.,  and  at  one  fired  a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns 
in  honor  of  the  exchange  of  ratifications.  The 
Russian,  American,  and  Japanese  flags  were 
hoisted  from  the  three  masts  from  noon  until  sun- 
set. After  the  exchange  was  completed,  the  Com- 
modore and  the  Japanese  commissioners  proceeded 
to  the  place  where  the  guns  of  the  frigate  Diana 
were  placed. 

The  guns  had  been  neatly  furbished  up,  and 
a  double  guard  of  honor  composed  of  Russians  and 
Japanese  was  mounted  over  them.  The  guns  were 
then  formally  presented  to  the  Japanese  ;  the  com- 
missioners then  attended  the  Commodore  to  the 
corvette,  where  they  received  a  salute  and  a  din- 
ner, and  thus  completed  the  ceremonies  of  the 
day. 

Monday,  December  8,  1856.  The  third  Gov- 
ernor, Moriyama,  and  some  others  visited  me 
to-day.  After  kind  messages  and  inquiries  on 
behalf  of  the  Governors,  they  said  they  had  been 
ordered  to  inform  me  of  the  exchange  of  ratifica- 
tions, etc.  Moriyama  was  quite  communicative  and 
oracular ;  said  that  a  great  change  was  impending 
in  Japanese  affairs,  as  it  relates  to  foreign  inter- 


THE  VISIT  OF  THE  BUSSIANS.  95 

course,  and  that  it  would  surprise  all  when  it  took 
place,  from  its  suddenness,  etc.,  etc. 

The  Governor  and  Moriyama  told  me  that  the 
largest  Japanese  vessels  were  about  two  hundred 
tons  burden,  and  that,  enumerating  all  vessels  of 
sixty  tons  up  to  two  hundred  tons,  the  aggregate 
number  was  about  one  hundred  thousand  III1  This 
aggregate  was  so  astounding  that  I  made  them 
repeat  it  in  different  forms,  so  that  I  might  be  sure 
there  was  no  misunderstanding  as  to  their  mean- 
ing ;  but  they  all  adhered  to  it,  remarking  that  if 
they  had  counted  all  their  craft  of  fifty  tons  down 
to  fishing-boats  the  number  would  be  enormous. 

They  said  they  had  seen  seven  hundred  junks, 
all  over  sixty  tons,  in  Shimoda  harbor  at  one  time ! 
If  their  figures  be  correct,  the  tonnage  of  Japan 
exceeds  that  of  any  nation  in  the  world. 

Tuesday,  December  9,  1856.  Up  at  seven  a.  m. 
to  go  on  board  the  corvette  to  see  the  Commodore 
before  he  meets  the  Japanese  to-day  on  the  subject 

1  The  official  statistics  from  1873  to  1879  show  the  number  of 
Japanese  junks  with  a  capacity  of  over  500  koku  (roughly,  about 
2500  bushels)  to  have  been  21,156,  21,147,  19,208,  18,420,  17,387, 
17,614,  17,755,  respectively.  Those  of  over  500  koku  capacity 
show  annually  decreasing  figures,  from  1536  in  1873  to  1369  in 
1879.  From  1885  the  building  of  junks  of  less  than  600  koku  ca- 
pacity has  been  forbidden.  In  1892  besides  643  steamers  and 
778  sailing-vessels  in  European  form,  there  were  18,193  junks 
and  585,456  fishing-smacks,  sail,  scull,  and  row  boats  of  all  de- 
scriptions. It  is  not  probable  that  Japan  ever  possessed  over  half 
the  tonnage  reported  to  Mr.  Harris. 


96  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

of  the  currency.  I  got  him  to  agree  that  he  would 
refuse  to  pay  except  on  the  basis  I  had  named, 
viz.,  one  dollar  to  pass  for  three  bus,  that  he  would 
pay  that  amount  to  them,  and,  if  they  were  dissat- 
isfied, he  would  place  the  difference  in  my  hands, 
until  the  arrival  of  a  Russian  consul,  to  await  the 
final  settlement  of  the  question.  I  am  much  pleased 
with  this,  as  it  will  greatly  strengthen  my  demands 
for  the  adjustment  of  the  question.  Am  told  the 
corvette  will  leave  on  Friday  next,  and  am  invited 
to  dine  with  them  for  the  last  time  on  Thursday 
next. 

Thursday,  December  11,  1856.  Send  my  tailor 
on  board  the  Russian  corvette.  He  had  the  impu- 
dence to  ask  me  to  give  him  a  good  character! 
Who  can  ever  hope  to  fathom  the  want  of  moral 
principle  in  a  Chinese  ? 

The  weather  is  the  most  lovely  ever  seen  at  this 
season  of  the  year  in  a  similar  latitude  ;  the  sky 
is  as  blue  as  a  sapphire. 

My  black  pet  hen  commenced  to  incubate  on  the 
9th  instant,  therefore  I  shall  look  for  some  chicks 
from  her  about  New  Year's  Day. 

Sunday,  December  14, 1856.  The  corvette  went 
to  sea  early  this  morning.  The  Commodore  paid 
one  third  of  the  Japanese  bill  for  pilotage  and  boat 
hire,  and  sent  the  other  two  thirds  to  me  to  await 
the  final  settlement  of  their  accounts. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

THE   FIRST   SKIRMISH   OF  A   LONG   BATTLE. 

Thursday,  December  18,  1856.  To-day  the 
vice-governor  called,  and  being  anxious  to  settle 
the  question  of  the  guards  I  admitted  him.  I  de- 
manded the  immediate  removal  of  the  people  who 
have  been  in  my  Compound  from  the  day  of  my 
arrival.  The  vice-governor  said  he  would  report 
it  to  the  Governor.  I  complained  that  the  shop- 
keepers of  Shimoda  would  not  sell  anything  to  my 
people,  or  even  give  the  prices.  I  added  that  I 
had  before  complained  of  this,  and  had  been  prom- 
ised redress,  but  things  went  on  just  as  they  did 
before.  I  also  demanded  ten  silver  bus  to  make 
presents  to  my  Japanese  servants  on  Christmas 
Day,  according  to  the  custom  of  my  country.  The 
vice-governor  said  that  orders  to  the  shopkeepers 
should  again  be  given ;  as  to  the  bus,  he  must  re- 
port that  to  the  Governors. 

Saturday,  December  20,  1856.  At  last  my 
horse  has  arrived.  It  is  not  a  high-mettled  racer, 
but  will  answer  my  purpose.  The  price  is  nine- 
teen kobangs,  about  twenty-six  dollars.  The  sad- 
dle and  bridle  are  real  curiosities,  and  cost  thirty 


98  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

kobangs,  about  forty-two  dollars,  or  about  sixty  per 
cent,  more  than  the  horse !  The  groom  to  attend 
the  horse  costs  me  seven  bus  per  month,  about  one 
dollar  and  seventy-five  cents.  The  horse  is  shod 
with  straw  sandals,  which  last  about  an  hour  on 
the  road. 

Monday,  December  22,  1856.  I  am  refused  the 
bus.  I  am  told  I  must  give  orders  on  the  Go-yosho 
and  the  money  will  be  paid  to  the  bearer  of  the 
order.  I  reply  that  such  a  proposition  is  offensive, 
and  must  not  be  renewed,  and  I  do  not  get  the 
money.  I  renew  my  complaint  about  the  guards, 
and  demand  their  immediate  removal.  I  am  told 
it  must  be  referred  to  Yedo  for  settlement. 

Tuesday,  December  23,  1856.  Mr.  Heusken 
walked  out  to-day  alone  and  unarmed.  On  the 
road  he  met  a  Japanese  wearing  a  coat  of  arms  on 
his  sleeve.1  As  soon  as  he  saw  Mr.  Heusken  he 
flourished  a  long  stick  he  had  in  a  threatening 
manner,  and  then  drew  his  sword,  which  was  also 
flourished.  Mr.  Heusken  at  first  halted,  and  then, 
being  unarmed,  turned  back.  I  directed  him  never 
to  go  out  unarmed  again. 

Thursday,  December  25,  1856.  Merry  Christ- 
mas !  how  happy  are  those  who  live  in  lands  where 
these  joyous  greetings  can  be  exchanged !  As  for 
me,  I  am  sick  and  solitary,  living,  as  one  may  say, 

1  The  samurai  or  two-sworded  gentry  wore  their  clan  or  family 
crest  on  the  back,  breasts,  and  sleeves  of  their  haori  or  coat. 


FIEST  SKIRMISH  OF  A  LONG  BATTLE.       99 

in  a  prison;  a  large  one  it  is  true,  but  still  a 
prison. 

Friday,  December  26, 1856.  Moriyama  Yenoske 
has  gone  to  Yedo  to  see  about  the  currency  ques- 
tion, and  to  try  to  hurry  a  decision.  I  have  given 
notice  that  I  will  not  allow  any  spies  to  come  into 
my  presence,  or  even  on  my  premises ;  that  when 
they  wish  to  see  me  I  will  only  receive  the  princi- 
pals and  interpreters,  excluding  spies  and  secreta- 
ries. The  Japanese  term  for  spy  is  "  a  looker 
across."  1 

Wednesday,  December  31,  1856.  The  last  day 
of  the  year !  How  many  events  of  great  impor- 
tance to  me  have  occurred  during  this  year !  I  am 
very  low-spirited  from  ill-health,  and  from  the  very 
slow  progress  I  am  making  with  the  Japanese. 
However,  I  must  keep  up  my  spirits  and  hope  for 
the  best.  My  pet  hen  has  presented  me  with  five 
chicks,  the  merest  mites  of  chickens  ever  seen. 

January  1,  1857.  Happy  New  Year !  What 
a  busy  day  in  dear  old  New  York.  What  univer- 
sal joy  appears  on  the  faces  that  throng  the  streets, 
each  hurrying  along  to  get  through  "his  list  of 
calls."  2 

1  Om^tsuke*  from  o  honorific,  mi  the  eye,  tsuk'e,  apply  or  fix ; 
hence  the  odd  translations  "cross-eyed  men,"  or  "  eye-appliers." 
They  were  the  censors,  spies,  "  doubles  "  required  by  the  abnor- 
mal system  of  government  under  the  Shoguns.     M.  E.  p.  295. 

2  It  is  highly  probable  that  the  custom  of  calling  on  friends  at 
New  Year's  Day  was  introduced  into  New  Netherland  by  the 


100  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

It  is  a  good  custom,  and  one  that  I  hope  will 
never  be  given  up.  How  many  friendships  are 
then  renewed  which,  without  the  occurrence  of  this 
day  of  "  oblivion  of  neglect,"  would  otherwise  die 
a  natural  death.  I  pass  the  day  in  calling,  in 
imagination,  on  my  friends ;  but  as  to  Japan,  not 
a  soul  has  darkened  my  door.  I  could  only  ex- 
change greetings  with  Mr.  Heusken,  and  present 
my  Chinese  servants  with  the  expected  cumsliaw.1 
All  my  New  Years  since  Christmas,  1849,  were 
passed  in  the  same  places  as  my  Christmases, 
except  New  Year's  Day  of  1855,  which  was  at 
Benares,  in  Northwestern  India.  The  preceding 
Christmas  was  at  Calcutta. 

Saturday,  January  3,  1857.  Assam,  my  [Chi- 
nese] butler,  goes  to  Shimoda  —  is  refused  a  few 
cakes  he  wished  to  buy  for  refreshment. 

Monday,  January  5,  1857.  Vice-governor  calls 
to  say  that  orders  have  been  given  to  all  shopkeep- 
ers to  give  prices,  or  sell  anything  my  people  may 
ask  for.  I  asked  when  those  orders  were  given. 
He  said  they  have  been  frequently  given,  but  were 
specially  renewed  eight  days  ago.  I  then  told 
him  what  had  occurred  on   Saturday,  and  added 

Dutch  from  Japan,  where  the  renewal  of  friendships  and  hospital- 
ity is  an  age-old  institution.  Until  1872  the  Japanese  used  the 
Chinese  or  lunar  calendar,  which  in  1857  made  the  end  of  the  year 
fall  on  January  25,  and  New  Year's  Day  on  January  26. 

1  The  Chinese  or  pidgin  (business) -English  pronunciation  of 
"  commission." 


FIRST  SKIRMISH  OF  A  LONG  pA^TjM:     101  /}  \\ 

that  I  did  not  believe  one  word  they  'said  t,  iiiat  H  ^  ; 
was  an  infraction  of  the  treaty,  etc. /etc." '  I  also 
told  him  that  I  demanded  the  instant  removal  of 
the  guards,  that  their  presence  made  me  in  reality 
a  prisoner,  and  was  a  gross  outrage  and  open  vio- 
lation of  the  treaty. 

The  poor  vice-governor  shook  in  every  joint, 
and  the  perspiration  streamed  from  his  forehead 
and  that  of  the  interpreter.  I  also  complained  of 
the  insult  to  Mr.  Heusken,  and  demanded  the 
arrest  and  punishment  of  the  offender.  The  vice- 
governor  begged  me  to  believe  that  everything 
should  be  done  to  give  me  satisfaction  that  lay  in 
their  power,  that  they  wished  to  keep  the  treaty 
faithfully,  and  that  he  would  hurry  over  to  the 
Governor  at  once,  etc.,  etc. 

Tuesday,  January  6,  1857.  Invited  to  meet  the 
Governors  at  the  Go-yosho  to-morrow.  Although 
quite  ill,  I  consented. 

Wednesday,  January  7,  1857.  Went  to  the 
Go-yosho  at  noon,  and  there  met  the  two  Kami, 
—  the  two  Governors  of  Shimoda ;  the  two  vice- 
governors  were  present  also,  but  no  secretaries. 

The  business  commenced  by  the  Governors  in- 
forming me  that  they  had  been  directed  to  give  an 
answer  to  my  letter  of  October  25  to  the  Minister 
of  Foreign  Affairs.  I  inquired  if  it  was  a  written 
answer?  They  said  it  was  not.  I  told  them  I 
must  decline    any  verbal   answer  delivered  by   a 


102  3/S.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

third  person  *  to  a  written  letter  from  me.  They 
asked  if  I  objected  to  their  rank.  I  told  them  no. 
They  told  me  that  the  laws  of  Japan  forbade  the 
writing  of  letters  to  foreigners.  I  told  them  I 
knew  better ;  that  letters  had  been  written  by  the 
highest  officials,  and  even  by  the  Emperor  himself 
to  Commodore  Perry,  to  the  Russians,  and  to  the 
Dutch  ;  that  to  assert  such  palpable  falsehoods  was 
to  treat  me  like  a  child,  and  that  if  they  repeated 
it  I  should  feel  myself  insulted.  They  did  not 
open  any  other  matter.  I  then  repeated  what  I 
had  told  the  vice-governor  on  the  5th  about  the 
guards  and  the  shops,  and  enlarged  upon  it,  tell- 
ing them  that  it  was  not  only  a  breach  of  the  treaty, 
but  a  violation  of  the  laws  of  nations,  and  that  my 
government  would  never  submit  to  such  treatment. 
The  Governors  were  in  great  trouble  ;  they  gave 
me  their  private  word  of  honor  that  the  com- 
plaints about  the  shopkeepers  should  be  instantly 
attended  to,  and  begged  me  to  wait  until  they 
could  write  to  Yedo  about  the  officers  which  are 
stationed  at  my  house;  that  I  mistook  their  na- 
ture ;  that  they  were  there  simply  to  protect  me 
against  intrusion  from  the  Japanese ;  that  the 
Shimoda  people  were  very  rude,  and  would  be 
sure  to  give  me  cause  of  offense,  if  the  officers 
were  not  there  to  keep  them  away ;  and  closed  by 
saying  they  had  no  power  to  remove  the  officers, 
but  must  refer  to  Yedo. 


FIBST  SKIRMISH  OF  A  LONG  BATTLE.      103 

In  reply,  I  told  them  they  could  not  disguise  the 
fact  of  my  being  under  guard  by  a  mere  change  of 
name  ;  that  I  had  no  fears  of  the  Shimoda  people, 
who  I  knew  were  friendly  when  not  under  the 
eyes  of  their  officials;  that  I  would  not  consent 
to  the  delay  of  one  day  longer  as  to  the  guards ; 
that  more  than  three  months  had  elapsed  since  I 
had  requested  their  removal ;  and,  finally,  so  long 
as  they  remained,  I  declared  I  should  consider 
myself  a  prisoner  and  would  not  leave  the  Com- 
pound, and  that  I  would  write  to  my  government 
the  manner  in  which  they  had  treated  me. 

The  trouble  of  the  Governors  increased.  Fi- 
nally, they  told  me  the  officers  should  be  removed. 
"  When  ?  "  said  I.  "  Very  soon,"  was  the  reply. 
"  How  many  days  ?  "  They  hesitated.  I  repeated 
firmly,  that  now  I  had  so  strongly  brought  the 
matter  up,  and  that  they  had  consented  to  the 
removal  of  the  guards,  that  every  day  they  re- 
mained was  a  new  outrage,  and  they  must  abide 
the  consequences.  They  then  said  that  the  officers 
should  be  removed  to-morrow.  Knowing  their 
duplicity,  I  told  them  the  removal  must  be  real 
and  not  nominal;  they  must  not  post  them  near 
or  even  in  sight  of  my  house ;  that  if  they  made 
any  such  attempt  I  should  consider  it  an  aggra- 
vation of  the  wrong  already  done  me.  They  as- 
sented to  the  justice  of  my  remarks,  and  said  the 
officers  should  be  brought  back  to  the  Go-yosho. 


104  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

They  then  said  they  hoped  I  would  not,  at  what 
had  passed,  interrupt  the  good  feelings  heretofore 
existing  between  us  ;  that  they  were  most  anxious 
to  give  me  every  proof  of  their  friendship,  etc.,  etc. 

I  told  them  they  had  a  queer  way  of  showing 
friendship  and  hospitality ;  that  I  had  been  in 
the  country  four  months  and  a  half,  and  had  never 
yet  been  invited  to  enter  the  house  of  a  Japanese, 
and  that  they  had  even  refused  to  dine  with  me  on 
my  New  Year's  Day,  making  a  flimsy  excuse ;  that 
in  my  country  New  Year's  Day  was  kept  as  it 
is  in  Japan,  by  friendly  visits,  etc.,  etc.,  but  not  a 
single  Japanese  came  near  me  on  that  day,  and 
closed  by  saying  that  in  America  such  conduct 
would  be  called  inhospitable. 

I  then  asked  if  the  man  that  threatened  Mr. 
Heusken  had  been  arrested.  They  said  they  did 
not  know  who  it  was,  therefore  they  could  not 
arrest  him.  I  told  them  the  person  was  one  of  a 
small  class  ;  that  he  had  a  crest  on  his  clothes, 
and  wore  a  sword,  and  that  if  they  did  not  arrest 
him  I  should  have  a  right  to  think  the  person  was 
acting  either  under  direct  orders  from  them,  or 
according  to  their  secret  wishes,  adding  that  here- 
after we  should  go  out  armed,  and  any  insult 
would  be  promptly  punished  by  us,  since  they 
were  either  unable  or  unwilling  to  punish  such 
persons. 

I  then   remarked,  that  with  such  a  system   of 


FIBST  SKIRMISH  OF  A  LONG  BATTLE.      105 

espionage  as  they  had,  I  well  knew  that  every- 
thing that  occurred  to  us  in  our  walk  was  reported 
to  them. 

I  then  inquired  about  the  currency  question, 
and  received  the  old  reply,  "  waiting  for  decision 
from  Yedo."  I  told  them  that  it  had  the  appear- 
ance of  a  determination  on  their  part  to  postpone 
the  question  indefinitely ;  they  eagerly  assured  me 
that  it  was  their  wish  to  close  the  matter  as 
speedily  as  possible.  So,  after  four  hours  of 
stormy  debate,  I  went  home,  where  I  was  agree- 
ably surprised  to  find  the  officers  and  guard  pack- 
ing up  to  leave,  and  in  effect  they  did  leave  in 
the  evening.  So  much  for  showing  them  a  bold 
face. 

Thursday,  January  8,  1857.  Quite  ill.  Write 
a  letter  to  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  about  the 
verbal  answer  offered  to  me.  One  of  the  Gover- 
nors goes  to  Yedo  to-day;  I  suppose  in  conse- 
quence of  the  flare-up  of  yesterday.  I  am  deter- 
mined to  take  firm  ground  with  the  Japanese.  I 
will  cordially  meet  any  real  offers  of  amity,  but 
words  will  not  do.  They  are  the  greatest  liars  on 
earth.1 

1  Mr.  Harris,  in  his  later  journals,  in  his  public  and  private 
letters,  and  in  his  conversations  with  his  friends  and  with  the 
editor,  showed  that  he  never  included  the  Japanese  people  under 
such  a  sweeping  generalization.  On  the  contrary,  he  praised 
highly  the  common  folks  for  their  honesty  and  the  government 
for  keeping  its  plighted  word  when  given  in  treaty  form. 


106  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

Thursday,  January  15.  Ill,  ill,  ill.  I  am  con- 
stantly wasting  away  in  flesh.  I  am  most  careful 
in  my  diet,  but  all  is  of  no  avail.  What  it  is 
that  ails  me  I  cannot  say.  I  left  Penang  on 
the  2d  of  April  last,  and  am  now  forty  pounds 
lighter  than  I  then  was.  We  are  well  supplied 
with  wild  boar's  hams,  some  venison,  plenty  of 
fine  golden  pheasants,  and  large  and  good  hares. 

Sunday,  January  18,  1857.  First  snow  seen  on 
the  hilltops.  I  cannot  sleep,  nor  can  I  study. 
I  have  laid  aside  the  Japanese  entirely.  My  read- 
ing is  unsatisfactory ;  I  have  a  craving  for  some- 
thing I  cannot  define. 

Thursday,  Friday,  and  Saturday,  January  26, 
27,  28.  Festival  of  the  Japanese  New  Year; 
every  one  released  from  labor ;  all  in  their  best 
clothes ;  faces'  shining  with  sake,  and  everybody 
paying  visits  of  ceremony  to  everybody.  Persons 
of  rank  put  on  their  kami-shimo,1  or  dress  of  cere- 
mony, on  these  occasions.  I  went  on  Thursday  to 
see  the  decorations  of  the  houses.  Evergreens, 
rice  in  the  straw,  oranges,  and  radishes,  were  fes- 
tooned about  the  front  of  every  house ;  before  each 
house  was  a  piece  of  cypress  branch  planted  in  the 
ground  to  represent  a  tree,  while  at  the  base  of  the 
tree  a  quantity  of  firewood,  some  fourteen  inches 

1  Literally,  "  High-low,"  a  dress  in  old  Japan  corresponding  to 
our  "  evening  dress,"  worn  alike  by  high  officers,  multi-million- 
aires, and  by  waiters  and  barbers. 


FIRST  SKIRMISH  OF  A  LONG  BATTLE.      107 

long,  was  set  on  end,  forming  a  bulk  of  some  seven 
feet  in  circumference.  The  fuel  was  kept  in  its 
place  by  straw  ropes.  At  some  houses,  wheat 
straw  was  neatly  twisted  into  the  form  of  a  cornu- 
copia ;  in  others,  the  universal  shoe  of  Japan,  i.  e., 
a  straw  sandal,  was  hung  up.  Every  one  appeared 
under  the  influence  of  sake,  while  but  few  were 
intoxicated  and  none  quarrelsome. 

Saturday,  January  31,  1857.  To-day  closes  the 
first  month  of  the  year.  I  wish  I  could  say  that 
my  health  and  spirits  were  as  good  as  the  weather 
is  fine. 

Saturday,  February  21.  One  of  the  Governors 
of  Shimoda  calls  on  me  on  his  return  from  Yedo. 
After  the  usual  compliments,  he  presented  me  with 
two  pieces  of  Japanese  crape,  a  really  good  article, 
and  a  Japanese  sword  !  It  was  in  a  common  white 
wood  scabbard,  and  had  a  handle  to  slip  on  of  the 
same,  in  fact,  was  simply  a  packing-case.  He  told 
me  the  blade  was  one  he  had  worn  for  some  years ; 
that  it  was  by  the  first  sword-maker  of  Japan.  [He 
said]  that,  having  procured  another  blade,  he  had 
shifted  the  scabbard  and  mountings  to  it,  and 
therefore  presented  me  with  the  blade  ;  that  no 
foreigner  had  ever  before  obtained  such  a  blade. 

To  all  this  I  made  the  required  replies.  The 
blade  is  really  a  superb  one,  and  has  the  "  shark- 
teeth  mark  "  the  whole  length  of  it.  This,  I  am 
told,  is   not   a   mere   surface   mark,  but   extends 


108  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

through  the  metal,  like  the  pamoin  in  some  Malay 
krisses.1 

The  Governor  invited  me  to  visit  him  and  his 
colleague  at  their  private  residence,  —  which  I 
accepted.  He  then  asked  me  if  I  would  have 
European  or  Japanese  cookery.  I  selected  the 
latter.  So  I  am  at  last  to  see  the  inside  of  their 
residence. 

Tuesday,  February  24,2  1857.  Norimonos  were 
sent  at  nine  this  morning,  but  I  did  not  leave 
until  eleven,  when  I  proceeded  with  quite  a  train 
of  attendants.  The  norimono  is  a  horrible  affair. 
The  only  position  you  can  assume  is  to  sit  on  your 
heels,3  Japanese  fashion,  or  else  cross-legged.  It  is 
only  four  feet  long,  and  about  three  and  a  half 
feet  high.  I  was  received  with  all  formality  by  the 
two  Governors  in  an  anteroom  ;  I  was  then  con- 
ducted to  an  inner  apartment  furnished  with  seats 
[and]  brasiers.     After  drinking  a  cup  of  tea,  and 

1  An  examination  of  the  historical,  chemical,  and  metallurgi- 
cal relations  between  the  Japanese  and  Malay  iron  and  steel 
weapons,  as  well  as  a  comparative  study  of  suicide  (hara-kiri), 
should  be  made. 

2  For  February  23,  see  further  on. 

8  Japanese  surgeons  think  that  this  habit  of  sitting  in  a  way 
that  prevents  proper  circulation  of  the  blood  in  the  lower  limbs, 
continued  during  ages,  and  in  individuals  often  for  hours  at 
a  time,  is  the  chief  cause  of  the  short-leggedness  of  the  Japan- 
ese. While  their  bodies  are  of  normal  dimensions,  they  are  from 
a  half  inch  to  two  inches  short  in  the  parts  below  the  symphisis 
pubis. 


FIBST  SKIRMISH  OF  A  LONG  BATTLE.      109 

smoking  three  whiffs  of  tobacco,  I  was  then  con- 
ducted to  the  room  of  my  entertainment.  This 
room,  out  of  compliment  to  me,  was  furnished  with 
seats  and  tables.  On  the  table  before  me  were 
pipes,  tobacco,  [and]  a  brasier.  My  seat  was  on 
the  left  of  the  Governor  and  close  to  the  toko1 
or  sacred  place,  and  consequently  the  seat  of 
honor. 

The  meal  consisted  of  fish  cooked  in  every  pos- 
sible Japanese  way,  and  fish  raw,  the  latter  cut 
from  a  large  fish  which  was  brought  to  me  to  see. 
It  was  in  a  large  dish,  decorated  with  a  mast  and 
sail,  the  colors  of  the  latter  indicating  welcome. 
A  pate  made  of  lobster  was  very  nice.  Sweet  po- 
tatoes and  radishes  served  up  in  various  forms 
were  the  vegetables.  Contrary  to  my  expectations, 
neither  rice  nor  bread  was  served  with  the  dishes. 
Some  ten  courses  were  served,  all  brought  to  me 
in  wooden  cups  brightly  lacquered.  On  a  table 
placed  across  the  foot  of  the  room  was  a  dwarfed 
cedar-tree,  decorated  with  storks  cut  out  of  radish, 
and  neatly  colored  ;  these  were  fastened  to  the  tree 

1  The  toko-no-ma,  literally,  bedroom,  or  place  of  the  couch, 
is  an  alcove  which  is  believed  to  have  been  anciently  either  the 
raised  sleeping-bench  along  the  wall  as  still  seen  in  the  Aino  hut, 
or  the  kang  over  the  warmed  flues  seen  in  a  Chinese  or  Korean 
house.  In  modern  times  the  toko-no-ma  is  the  alcove  in  which 
the  sword-rack  rests,  ornamental  shelves  are  set,  pictures  hung, 
and  works  of  art  kept.  It  is  usually  raised  a  few  inches  above 
the  floor.     See  Morse's  Japanese  Homes. 


110  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

by  springs  of  twisted  wire,  which  continued  in  mo- 
tion for  a  long  time.  Flowers  also,  both  real  and 
artificial,  were  used  to  decorate  the  dishes  of  cakes, 
bonbons,  etc.,  etc.,  which  were  also  placed  on  this 
table.  I  was  told  the  storks  were  a  wish  for  my 
longevity,  and  that  the  various  flowers  had  a  com- 
plimentary meaning  in  them.  After  all  the  fish 
dishes  were  done,  rice  was  served,  without  salt  or 
any  other  condiment.  Sake  was  the  beverage,  but 
I  plead  ill-health,  and  only  drank  tea. 

When  the  heavy  part  of  the  meal  was  over,  the 
Governor  had  brought  to  him  the  prettiest  toy  tea- 
making  apparatus  I  ever  saw.  It  was  in  a  neat 
plain  wooden  case,  which,  when  opened,  displayed 
a  tiny  furnace  for  boiling  water,  teapot  and  cups, 
a  jar  of  tea,  mats  for  the  teapot  and  cups,  a  scoop 
for  the  tea,  and  a  curious  machine  for  heating  the 
tea  over  the  fire  before  it  is  put  in  the  water.  My 
host  then  proceeded  to  boil  the  water,  measure  and 
heat  the  tea,  place  it  in  pot,  pour  on  the  boiling 
water,  and  then  pour  out  a  cup  and  hand  it  to  me 
with  his  own  hands,  whereat  all  the  Japanese  fell 
into  immense  admiration.  Then  the  matter  was 
expounded  to  me,  that  the  making  of  tea  by  the 
Governor,  and  serving  it  with  his  own  hands,  was 
a  proof  of  friendship  only  given  to  those  of  exalted 
character  and  position,  and  I  was  requested  to  view 
it  in  that  light,  whereupon  I  agreed  so  to  regard 
it.     Then  the  Governor  requested  my  acceptance 


FIRST  SKIRMISH  OF  A  LONG  BATTLE.      Ill 

of  the  whole  concern,  as  a  proof  of  his  great 
regard,  and  this  was  also  agreed  to.1 

The  conversation  now  took  the  usual  Japanese 
turn.  The  lubricity  of  these  people  passes  belief ; 
the  moment  business  is  over,  the  one  and  only  sub- 
ject on  which  they  dare  converse  comes  up.  I  was 
asked  a  hundred  different  questions  about  Ameri- 
can females;  I  will  not  soil  my  paper  with  the 
greater  part  of  them. 

I  was  asked  if  their  people  could  receive  some 
instruction  in  beating  the  drum  when  the  next 
man-of-war  came.  I  replied  I  had  no  doubt  the 
commander  would  be  willing  to  gratify  them  on 
that  point ;  they  said  they  had  brass  drums  copied 
from  the  Dutch ;  they  asked  me  about  the  various 
signals  given  by  beat  of  drum,  which  I  answered 
as  well  as  I  could;  then  —  oh,  shame!  ...  I 
gladly  took  my  leave  at  three  p.  M.,  and  reached 
home  quite  jaded  out. 

Monday,  February  23,  1857.  I  applied  to  the 
Japanese  to  fire  a  salute  for  me  on  Washington's 
Birthday ;  but,  as  it  fell  on  Sunday,  I  wished  the 
salute  to  be  on  Monday.  This  was  agreed  to,  and 
this  morning  they  sent  over  two  handsome  brass 
howitzers  exactly  copied  in  every  respect  from  one 
Commodore  Perry  gave  them.  Every  appointment 
about  the  gun,  down  to  the  smallest  particular,  was 

1  The  ceremony  of  cha  no  yu,  here  described,  has  a  voluminous 
native  literature  for  its  illustration. 


112  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

exactly  copied,  percussion  locks,  drag-ropes,  powder 
or  cartridge  holder,  and  all.  The  cartridges  were 
made  of  paper,  and  for  wads  they  used  wood.  The 
firing  was  good,  quite  as  good  as  I  have  seen 
among  civilized  persons.  Judging  from  the  report, 
their  powder  is  much  better  than  that  of  the  Chi- 
nese or  Siamese.  The  Japanese  say  they  have 
made  one  thousand  howitzers  like  those  used  at 
the  salute! 

Wednesday,  February  25,  1857.  Met  the  Gov- 
ernors at  the  Go-yosho  at  noon  to-day.  They 
brought  in,  with  great  ceremony,  a  box,  which  was 
reverentially  placed  before  me.  Then  a  vice-gov- 
ernor opened  the  box,  which  I  found  contained 
five  pieces  of  a  very  poor  satin  damask,  which  I  was 
told  was  from  five  members  of  the  Regency  at  Yedo, 
one  piece  from  each  person.  This  over,  another 
box  was  brought,  which,  as  I  was  told,  contained 
an  answer  to  my  two  letters  to  Yedo,  and  at  last 
they  mustered  courage  to  open  it  and  unfold  a 
sheet  of  paper  about  five  feet  long  by  eighteen 
inches  wide,  written  quite  full,  and  bearing  the 
seals  and  signatures  of  the  following  princes,  who 
are  members  of  the  Regency,  with  a  Dutch  trans- 
lation of  the  same,  which  they  placed  in  Mr. 
Heusken's  hands :  — 

Hotta,  Bitchiu  no  Kami.  Abe*,  Ise*  no  Kami. 
Makino,  Bizen  no  Kami.  Kuze*,  Yamato  no  Kami. 
Naito,  Kii  no  Kami. 


FIBST  SKIBMISH  OF  A  LONG  BATTLE.      113 

I  directed  Mr.  Heusken  to  put  the  letter  and 
translation  in  the  box  and  close  it.  The  Governors 
wished  me  to  have  it  translated  into  English  at 
once.  This  I  declined,  saying  I  should  prefer  hav- 
ing it  done  at  leisure,  and  that  in  the  mean  time  I 
should  like  to  hear  their  answer  on  the  currency 
question. 

Now  ensued  a  scene,  quite  Japanese,  which 
occupied  full  two  hours.  The  substance  of  it  was 
that  they  admitted  the  justice  of  my  demand  in 
part,  but  said  my  offer  (five  per  cent.)  to  pay  for 
recoining  was  not  sufficient ;  that  they  should  lose 
by  it,  and  they  therefore  begged  me  to  reconsider 
it,  and  make  them  an  increased  offer.  I  asked 
them  what  was  the  cost  of  coining  money  in 
Japan.  They  gravely  replied  twenty-five  per  cent. 
Twenty-five  per  cent. !  I  told  them  it  was  simply 
impossible ;  that  the  cost  in  Europe  and  America 
for  such  labor  was  not  one  per  cent. ;  that  I  would 
bring  competent  moneyers  from  the  United  States, 
who  would  do  the  whole  work  for  five  per  cent.,  and 
even  less.  They  said  the  laws  of  Japan  forbade 
the  employment  of  foreigners  about  their  coinage. 

I  endeavored  to  elicit  a  direct  offer  from  them, 
but  without  success.  Among  other  statements  made 
by  them  was  this,  —  that  gold  and  silver,  before 
coinage,  had  no  value ;  that  it  was  the  mint  stamp 
that  gave  it  its  value,  etc.  I  told  them  their  gov- 
ernment had  an  undoubted  right  to  deal  with  the 


114  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

precious  metals  produced  in  Japan  as  they  pleased, 
but  they  had  no  such  right  over  a  foreigner,  and 
that  to  attempt  to  exercise  such  a  right  over  him 
would,  in  effect,  be  a  confiscation  of  his  property ; 
that  they  might  stamp  pieces  of  paper  or  leather, 
and  compel  their  own  subjects  to  take  them  in  lieu 
of  gold  and  silver,  but  they  could  not  expect  the 
foreigner  to  take  them  in  exchange  for  his  mer- 
chandise, or  to  have  his  coins  measured  by  the 
intrinsic  value  of  such  worthless  tokens. 

This  ground  was  traveled  over  and  over  again,  the 
Japanese  always  reasoning  in  a  circle,  and  trying 
to  gain  their  point  by  simple  pertinacity.  I  passed 
four  weary  hours,  and  left  at  four  p.  M.,  appointing 
the  next  day  to  meet  again. 

On  reaching  home,  Mr.  Heusken  translated  the 
Dutch  copy  of  the  letter,  and  I  found  it  to  be  a 
simple  announcement  that  all  business  was  to  be 
transacted  with  the  Governors  of  Shimoda  or 
Hakodate*,  and  not  one  word  in  reference  to  the 
President's  letter  to  the  Emperor  of  Japan,  of 
which  I  told  them  I  was  the  bearer.1 

1  Here  end  the  records  in  "  Journal  No.  3,"  commencing  July 
7,  1856,  ending  February  25,  1857. 


CHAPTER  Vn. 

THE   POLITICAL    SITUATION.  —  A  CHAPTER  OF 
EXPLANATION. 

To  save  further  explanations  and  to  make  Mr. 
Harris's  records  more  intelligible,  let  us  here  note 
the  forces  and  the  lines  of  battle.  It  is  no  dis- 
grace to  Japanese  men  of  to-day  that  he  so  often 
calls  attention  to  the  blackness  of  moral  darkness 
that  overshadowed  nearly  all  government  dealings 
in  the  Japan  of  the  Ansei  Era.  Nevertheless,  it 
is  even  yet  true  that  the  two  things  most  noticed 
and  condemned  by  Mr.  Harris,  lying  and  licen- 
tiousness, are  still  the  national  sins.  Both  for 
politeness's  sake  and  for  trivial  reasons,  much  in- 
tellect is  wasted  in  calling  white  black  and  black 
white,  while  official  statistics  show  one  divorce  to 
every  three  marriages  as  still  the  rule.  In  Mr. 
Harris's  day,  the  very  government  itself,  being  a 
fraud,  built  on  lies,  and  liable  at  any  moment 
to  totter  to  its  fall,  needed  a  buttressing  of  false- 
hood to  hold  it  up  and  stave  off  the  crash.  Hence 
the  originality,  ingenuity,  and  energy  shown  in 
prevarication  painfully  impressed  the  American 
envoy.     His  record  of  their  lies  is  appalling.     It 


116  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

seemed  to  him  a  dissipation  of  a  mental  power 
much  better  put  to  use  in  other  directions,  while 
the  mass  and  toughness  of  the  fabrications  resem- 
bled masonry. 

Compelled  by  the  force  of  circumstances  to 
make  the  Perry  treaty,  the  Yedo  government  had 
relapsed  into  slumber,  only  to  be  rudely  awakened 
in  pettish  ill-humor  by  the  promptness  of  the 
Americans.  Besides,  the  more  wily  ones  had  ex- 
pected, after  making  the  treaty,  to  be  able  to  nul- 
lify it  by  their  choice  of  distant  or  worthless  ports. 
It  was  not  at  first  that  Mr.  Harris  discovered,  what 
all  along  the  Yedo  officers  knew,  that  Shimoda  was 
nearly  useless  for  foreign  commerce.  Open  to  the 
sea,  it  was  shut  in  by  ranges  of  high  hills,  and  lay 
near  the  end  of  a  barren  promontory,  remote 
from  trade,  highways,  and  markets.  Its  chief  use 
now  is  as  a  stone-quarry  for  the  public  buildings 
in  Tokio. 

In  glancing  at  the  historical  situation,  the  dwarf 
of  to-day  can  see  further  than  could  the  giant  of 
a  generation  ago.  The  more  Japanese  history  is 
studied  the  more  is  it  seen  to  be  but  slightly 
bizarre,  peculiar,  or  anomalous,  and  the  more  is 
it  analogous  to  that  of  Europe.  Sprung,  in  all 
probability,  from  two  distinct  stocks,  the  Malay 
islanders  and  the  immigrants  from  the  Asiatic 
highlands,  the  primitive  men  of  Nippon  brought 
with  them  the  rude  feudalism  which  was  common 


THE  POLITICAL  SITUATION.  117 

to  both  Korea  and  Malaysia.  The  clan  of  Ya- 
mato,  becoming  paramount  over  the  other  inhabit- 
ants of  Hondo,  or  the  main  island,  exalted  their 
chief  to  the  rank  of  the  gods.  They  quelled  the 
Ainos  and  their  aboriginal  neighbors  with  bolts 
and  blades  of  dogma  as  well  as  of  iron.  It  was 
superior  theology  as  well  as  improved  weapons 
that  won  the  day  in  central  Japan.1  In  the  sev- 
enth century  the  introduction  from  China  of  the 
centralized  system  of  imperialism,  with  standing 
armies,  codes  of  law,  boards  of  government  at  the 
capital,  and  civil  governors  sent  out  to  the  pro- 
vinces to  rule  conjointly  with  the  military  magis- 
trates, brought  the  remotest  ends  of  Hondo,  Yezo, 
Shikoku,  and  Kiushiu  under  the  sway  of  the 
Awful  Gate,  or  Mikado.  These  centuries,  from 
the  seventh  to  the  twelfth,  of  the  undivided  rule 
of  the  Emperor  —  despite  the  fact  that  in  later 
generations  the  Fujiwara,  Taira,  and  other  noble 
families  practically  barred  access  to  the  Mikado, 
monopolized  power  and  office,  and  dictated  nomi- 
nations to  the  throne  —  are  looked  upon  as  the 
golden  age  of  Japan.  Even  in  this  year  of  grace 
1895,  or,  in  the  purely  mythical  chronology  of  the 
Japanese  empire,  the  twenty-five  hundred  and  fifty- 
fourth,  and  of  actual  history  possibly  the  sixteen 
hundredth,  a  native  philosopher,  in  an  elaborate 
treatise  on  ethics,  makes  the  central  principle  of 
all  morals  Loyalty  to  the  Throne. 

1  See  The  Religions  of  Japan.     New  York,  1895. 


118  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

In  Koman  history  the  development  of  the  Pre- 
torium,  which  made  and  deposed  emperors  and 
dictated  the  policy  of  the  empire,  has  a  striking 
parallel  in  the  Bakufu,  or  Shogunate,  by  which 
Japan  was,  with  a  few  brief  intervals,  governed 
from  a.  d.  1184  to  1868.  The  word  pretorium 
meant,  first  of  all,  a  general's  tent ;  and  so  did 
the  word  bakufu,  from  baku,  a  curtain,  such  as 
was  used  to  mark  off  the  general's  headquarters, 
and  fu,  authority  or  government.  In  time,  this 
tent  inclosed  and  overshadowed  all  Japan.  The 
typical  product  of  Japanese  architecture,  the  ya- 
shiki,  or  clan-caravansary,  of  which  Yedo  was  full, 
was  but  a  wooden  tent.  Kamakura  first,  and  then 
Yedo,  was  the  camp  city  of  the  Japanese  preto- 
rian  guard.  The  Shogun's  central  castle,  girt 
with  moats  and  masonry,  was  surrounded  by  the 
wooden  tents  of  his  vassals.  The  Camp  and  the 
Throne,  Yedo  and  Kioto,  Shogun  and  Emperor, 
divided  the  political  and  moral  assets  of  the 
nation  ;  the  former  holding  the  purse  and  sword, 
the  latter  monopolizing  divinity  and  honors. 

In  theory,  all  the  land  belonged  to  the  Mikado, 
but  parallel  with  the  development  of  duarchy  was 
that  of  feudalism.  After  the  civil  magistracies 
of  the  Middle  Ages  had  been  swallowed  up  in 
the  military  offices  (created  by  Yoritomo  soon 
after  his  own  appointment  as  Shogun,  1192 
A.  D.),  the   next   step  was  to  turn  districts   into 


THE  POLITICAL  SITUATION.  119 

fiefs,  and  the  next  to  make  the  feudal  allotments 
hereditary  in  the  families  of  the  Shogun's  nomi- 
nees. The  force  of  feudalism  could  no  further  go 
when  these  fiefs  were  parceled  out  by  the  Shogun 
without  reference  to  the  Mikado's  will,  and  this 
Iyeyasii  did  in  1604  and  later.  He  further  so  dis- 
tributed the  lands  of  his  kinsmen  and  most  loyal 
vassals  that  the  eighteen  jealous  princes  of  ancient 
fame  and  continuing  power,  and  the  other  daimios 
who  held  land  and  rule  before  Iyeyasu's  time, 
could  never  combine  to  overthrow  the  Shogunate, 
or  Yedo  Pretorium. 

On  the  chessboard  of  Japan,  the  master-move, 
or  "  king's  hand,"  has  always  been  to  get  posses- 
sion of  the  Mikado  and  issue  edicts  in  the  name  of 
the  Son  of  Heaven.  For  two  hundred  and  fifty 
years,  because  of  the  iron  hand  of  Iyeyasu  and  his 
successors,  none  had  been  able  to  make  that  move. 
Further,  the  country  had  been  so  long  at  peace, 
under  the  system  which  seemed  fixed  forever,  that 
most  people  forgot  that  things  had  ever  been  dif- 
ferent. Not  only  was  feudalism,  with  its  two  foci 
at  Yedo  and  Kioto  coextensive  with  the  whole 
empire,  but  in  intensiveness  its  influence  per- 
meated every  department  of  life,  even  morals  and 
religion.1  The  Mikado,  whom  none  except  a  few 
august  nobles  of  the  court  had  ever  seen,  whose 

1  See  this  assertion  abundantly  justified  in  Dr.  G.  W.  Knox's 
papers  in  T.  A.  S.  J.  vol.  xx.,  and  in  The  Religions  of  Japan. 


120  ME.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

feet  never  touched  the  ground,  whose  palace  was 
a  miya,  or  temple,  and  his  capital  and  capitol  a 
miya-ko,  whose  countenance  was  a  "  dragon's," 
who  was  a  son  of  the  gods,  all  men  loved.  The 
Shogun,  whose  iron  hand  every  man,  woman,  and 
child  felt  and  feared,  was  the  one  to  be  reverently 
obeyed.  This  was  Japanese  politics  and  religion 
for  centuries. 

With  foreigners  and  all  the  world  excluded  by 
edict,  with  "  the  evil  sect  called  Christian "  ex- 
tirpated, with  the  millions  of  Japan  included 
and  made  adscripts  glebce  by  feudal  law  and  by 
the  reduction  to  ashes  of  all  seaworthy  ships,  by 
a  ban  laid  on  travel  to  other  lands,  and  by  death 
pronounced  upon  both  passenger  abroad  and  Chris- 
tian within,  Japan  was  isolated  from  the  shock  of 
change. 

The  apparition  of  Perry's  fleet  had  indeed  been 
a  nightmare ;  yet  even  with  two  ports  open  to  the 
"ugly"  and  "hairy"  foreigners,  was  it  not  possi- 
ble to  keep  things  as  they  were  ?  Could  not  the 
aliens'  eyes  be  blinked,  the  veil  be  kept  over  Ki5to, 
and  the  Mikado  still  float  on  "  purple  clouds  "  as 
the  "  spiritual  "  emperor  only,  and  the  mystery- 
play  be  continued?  This,  on  the  Japanese  side, 
and  from  the  Yedo  point  of  view,  was  the  problem 
and  set  scheme  laboriously  contrived  and  vigilantly 
maintained. 

This   pretorian   purpose  might    have  succeeded 


THE  POLITICAL  SITUATION.  121 

had  there  been  no  students  or  thinkers  in  Japan. 
Unfortunately  for  the  Pretoriuin  at  Yedo,  men 
studied  history,  pondered  and  wrote,  and  the  pen 
proved  mightier  than  the  sword.  In  reality,  even 
while  Townsend  Harris  was  at  Shimoda,  could  he 
have  had  the  statistics  of  men  imprisoned,  tortured, 
banished,  beheaded,  or  compelled  to  commit  hara- 
kiri  for  uttering  the  truth ;  could  he  have  seen  the 
list  of  books  purged  by  the  censors,  or  confiscated 
and  suppressed  by  the  Yedo  government ;  could  he 
have  seen  the  eager  students  furtively  copying  with 
wearisome  labor  English  and  Dutch  books  at  peril 
of  reputation  and  life,  while  even  those  who  would 
study  philosophy,  introduce  new  arts,  sciences,  or 
weapons  of  war,  jeoparded  their  lives,  —  his  eyes 
would  have  been  opened  as  were  the  lad's  at  Do- 
than.  He  would  have  seen  that  even  the  later 
assassinations  and  incendiarisms  were  wrought  by 
men  loyal  to  the  Mikado,  who  hoped,  by  embroiling 
the  Bakufu  with  foreign  nations,  to  hasten  its  fall. 
Mr.  Harris  was  the  bearer  of  a  letter  from  the 
President  of  the  United  States  addressed  to  "  the 
Emperor  "  in  Yedo.  To  the  American  envoy,  the 
idea  of  there  being  two  Emperors,  one  "  spiritual  " 
and  the  other  "  temporal,"  a  figment  of  the  govern- 
ment interpreters,  was  not  perplexing.  Such  an 
arrangement  was  implied  in  the  Perry  Treaty,  and 
had  apparently  a  close  analogy  in  Siam.  A  criti- 
cal student  might  wonder  at  two  suns  in  the  same 


122  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

system,  yet,  considering  that  both  sun  and  moon 
furnished  light,  ask  which  was  the  fire  and  which 
the  reflector,  Kioto  or  Yedo?  Later  (November 
20,  1857)  Mr.  Harris  wrote  :  "  Among  the  mys- 
teries of  this  mysterious  land,  none  is  more  puz- 
zling to  me  than  this  Mikado.  The  Japanese 
negotiators  spoke  of  him  in  almost  contemptuous 
terms  during  the  course  of  our  discussions,  and  yet 
he  appears  to  have  a  greater  influence  over  the 
refractory  nobles  of  this  land  than  the  Tycoon  and 
Council  of  State." 

Even  a  decade  of  life  spent  by  the  American  en- 
voy in  the  morally  fetid  atmospheres  of  the  East 
had  scarcely  blunted  the  edge  of  his  surprise  at  the 
mystery  surrounding  political  affairs  in  Japan,  and 
especially  at  the  subterfuges  daily  resorted  to, 
daily  exposed,  and  daily  repeated.  He  was,  how- 
ever, so  far  forearmed  that  he  resolved  on  no  pre- 
text whatever  should  the  President's  letter  leave 
his  hands  until  deposited  by  him  in  person  before 
the  Tycoon  in  Yedo.  He  knew  that  the  consum- 
ing curiosity  of  the  Japanese  would  be  his  strong- 
est ally. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

SLOW   BUT   SURE   PROGRESS. 

Thursday,  February  26,  1857.1  On  reaching 
the  Go-yosho  to-day,  the  Governors  asked  me  if 
I  had  perused  the  letter  from  the  Regency,  etc., 
etc.,  and  said  they  had  something  to  add,  which 
was  that  they  had  full  powers  to  receive  from 
me  any  propositions  I  had  to  make,  and  to  treat 
on  all  the  matters  referred  to  in  my  two  letters  to 
the  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs,  and  then  began 
to  question  me  as  to  certain  matters  contained 
therein. 

I  told  them  I  was  not  yet  ready  to  answer,  but 
rather  to  ask  questions,  and  that  I  wished  to  know 
the  nature  of  their  powers.  Could  they  give  me 
answers  at  once  on  all  matters  I  might  propose 
without  waiting  to  hear  from  Yedo  ?  They  assured 
me  in  the  most  solemn  manner  that  they  could. 
I  then  asked  could  they  make  a  new  treaty  without 
such  reference  ? 

Their  answer  soon  proved  what  I  before  sus- 
pected, that  in  any  minor  matter  they  could  decide, 

1  Here  begins  "  Journal  No.  4,"  commencing  February  26, 
1857,  ending  December  7,  1857. 


124  MB.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

but  on  any  important  one  they  could  only  hear  and 
report.  I  then  said,  "  I  have  some  matters  under 
the  treaty  which  properly  come  under  your  juris- 
diction, and  will  now  proceed  to  open  them."  They 
wished  to  renew  the  discussion  of  the  currency,  but 
I  told  them  unless  they  had  some  new  matter,  or 
a  distinct  proposition  to  make,  I  should  prefer 
leaving  that  for  the  present. 

I  then  stated  that  the  port  of  Nagasaki  had 
been  opened  to  the  Russians  as  a  place  where  their 
ships  could  obtain  necessary  supplies  and  coals  for 
steamers,  and  I  demanded  the  same  rights  for  the 
Americans.  This  was  finally  agreed  to.  My  next 
was,  that  in  the  case  of  American  ships  in  want  of 
supplies  and  not  having  money,  goods  should  be 
taken  in  payment.  They  said  this  was  already 
granted  by  our  treaty.  I  told  them  if  that  was 
the  case,  of  course  they  could  have  no  objection  to 
reaffirming  it,  and  this  was  agreed  to.  My  next 
was,  that  Americans  committing  offenses  in  Japan 
should  be  tried  by  the  consul  and  punished,  if 
guilty,  according  to  Japanese  laws.  To  my  great 
and  agreeable  surprise  this  was  agreed  to  without 
demur.1 

1  This  clause,  so  heartily  agreed  to  by  the  Japanese,  was  later 
the  intolerable  burden  under  which  the  governments  of  both 
Yedo  and  Tokio  groaned  for  a  generation,  the  rock  on  which  sev- 
eral cabinets  were  wrecked,  and  on  account  of  which  civil  war 
was  more  than  once  on  the  point  of  breaking  out.  In  the  treaties 
made  with  England  and  the  United  States  in  1894,  the  abolition 
of  consular  courts  is  provided  for. 


SLOW  BUT  SURE  PROGRESS.  125 

I  next  told  them  that  I  demanded  the  right  for 
Americans  to  lease  ground,  buy,  build,  repair,  or 
alter  such  buildings  at  their  pleasure,  and  that  they 
should  be  supplied  with  materials  and  laborers  for 
such  purposes  whenever  they  might  require  them. 
I  told  them  I  founded  this  claim  on  the  12th  and 
13th  Articles  made  with  the  Dutch  at  Nagasaki, 
on  the  9th  of  November,  1855,  by  which  all  the 
ground  at  Deshima  was  leased  to  the  Dutch,  and 
the  buildings  sold  to  them,  and  that  they  also  had 
the  right  to  build,  alter,  or  repair,  etc.,  etc. ;  that  I 
claimed  those  same  privileges  under  the  9th  Arti- 
cle of  the  Treaty  of  Kanagawa. 

The  Governors  were  amazed ;  they  never  heard 
of  any  such  convention;  it  did  not,  it  could  not 
exist ;  when,  where,  and  by  whom  was  it  made  ?  I 
told  them.  It  was  not  known  to  the  government 
at  Yedo ;  had  never  been  ratified,  and  therefore 
had  never  gone  into  effect.  I  then  read  the  29th 
Article,  which  declared  the  convention  should  go 
into  full  effect  on  the  1st  of  January,  1856,  and 
extended  the  time  of  exchange  of  the  ratifications 
to  the  9th  of  November,  1857  ;  but  the  ratifica- 
tions had  been  exchanged,  and  that  I  had  with  my 
own  eyes  seen  the  ratified  Japanese  copy.  They 
then  asked  where  the  ratifications  were  exchanged, 
and  where  it  was  that  I  saw  it  ?  I  told  them  that 
Captain  Fabius  of  the  Dutch  Navy  brought  the 
Dutch  ratification  to  Nagasaki,  in  August  or  Sep- 


126  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

tember  last,  and  that  when  he  came  here  in  the 
frigate  Medusa  he  had  the  ratified  convention  on 
board,  and  that  what  I  held  in  my  hand  was  an 
authenticated  translation  of  it. 

Now,  will  it  be  believed  that  during  all  this  time 
(more  than  one  hour)  the  Governors  had  an  au- 
thentic copy  of  that  very  convention  lying  before 
them  in  a  dispatch  box  ?  It  was  so ;  and  all  this 
barefaced  falsehood  was  a  fair  specimen  of  Japan- 
ese diplomacy. 

They  then  took  new  ground;  the  Dutch  had 
been  in  Japan  more  than  two  hundred  years ;  that 
these  were  old  matters,  and  had  no  relation  to  the 
present  state  of  affairs.  I  replied  that  I  claimed 
none  of  the  rights  the  Dutch  had  before  the  Treaty 
of  Kanagawa  was  signed ;  that  I  only  claimed  the 
same  new  right  as  had  been  granted  to  the  Dutch ; 
that  under  the  old  regulations  the  Dutch  lived  in 
De*shinia  simply  on  sufferance,  had  no  written 
rights,  and  were  liable  to  be  ordered  away  at  any 
moment ;  but  the  convention  of  November  9, 1855, 
placed  them  on  new  and  secure  ground ;  they  had 
acquired  fixed  and  indefeasible  rights,  and  among 
others  that  of  permanent  residence  in  Japan. 

Again  the  ground  was  shifted.  The  privileges 
granted  to  the  Dutch  were,  in  effect,  to  the  Dutch 
government  represented  by  a  factory,  and  not  to 
the  Dutch  at  large ;  as  I  had  told  them  the  gov- 
ernment of  the  United  States   never  engaged  in 


SLOW  BUT  SURE  PROGRESS.  127 

trade,  of  course  it  could  not  have  a  factory ;  and, 
as  a  natural  consequence,  the  claim  on  my  part  was 
ill-founded.  I  replied  that  it  was  a  privilege  of 
trade  and  residence  granted  to  Dutchmen,  no  mat- 
ter whom  they  represented ;  that  the  effect  was  the 
same,  whether  they  traded  for  themselves  or  for 
the  Dutch  government.  Four  o'clock  having  ar- 
rived, I  left  them  to  meet  again  to-morrow  at  the 
same  hour. 

Friday,  February  27,  1857.  At  the  Go-yosho 
at  noon.  The  Governors  opened  the  business  by 
traveling  over  the  same  ground  as  yesterday  (on 
my  last  proposition)  for  nearly  two  hours,  not  one 
new  idea  or  argument  being  stated.  At  last,  when 
they  questioned  the  correctness  of  my  translation, 
I  suddenly  asked  them  to  give  me  a  copy  of  the 
12th  and  13th  Articles  according  to  their  version, 
which  they  promised  to  do,  apparently  for  the 
moment  forgetting  their  denial  of  any  knowledge 
of  such  a  convention  only  yesterday. 

I  next  claimed  the  right  to  have  purchases  made 
for  me  by  any  person  I  might  employ,  and  that 
payment  should  be  made  directly  to  the  seller  with- 
out the  interference  of  any  Japanese  official.  I 
also  claimed  that  the  limits  of  seven  ri 1  and  five  ri 
at  Shimoda  and  Hakodate  did  not  apply  to  me  as 
Consul-General,  but  that  the  whole  Empire  of  Japan 
was  included  in  my  consulate. 

1  Ri  =  two  and  a  half  English  miles. 


128  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

There  was  less  falsehood  in  their  replies  to  this 
point  than  there  was  to  the  preceding  one,  but  this 
arose  from  the  want  of  opportunity  rather  than  the 
want  of  inclination.  Two  hours  were  thus  con- 
sumed, and  I  left  at  four  p.  M.,  they  promising  to 
send  me  their  version  of  the  12th  and  13th  Arti- 
cles of  the  Dutch  convention. 

Monday,  March  2,  1857.  Moriyama  Yenoske 
comes  here  to-day  with  their  version  of  the  12th 
and  13th  Articles  of  the  Dutch  convention.  They 
agree  in  every  essential  with  my  version. 

He  introduced  the  "  currency  question  "  by  saying 
how  very  anxious  he  was  to  have  it  settled,  and 
tried  to  persuade  me  to  open  the  question  with  him. 
He  assured  me  that  he  knew  of  his  own  knowledge 
it  did  cost  twenty-five  per  cent,  on  all  their  coin- 
age; and,  on  being  pressed,  he  admitted  that  a 
whole  army  of  officers  was  quartered  on  the  mint ; 
that  some  of  them  had  very  large  salaries.  I  in- 
ferred from  what  he  said  that  the  mint  is  a  sort  of 
pension  establishment  for  the  Empire. 

Tuesday,  March  3,  1857.  Met  the  Governors. 
The  currency  question  was  introduced,  and  they 
at  last  made  a  distinct  offer.  They  said  that  here- 
tofore the  dollar  had  been  taken  by  them  for  six- 
teen hundred  sen  (or  cash)  ;  that  this  was  not 
right ;  they  proposed  to  weigh  coins  brought  here 
by  the  Americans,  gold  coin  with  Japanese  gold 
coin,  and  silver  coin  against  Japanese  silver  coin, 


SLOW  BUT  SURE  PROGRESS.  129 

weight  for  weight,  and  from  the  amount  of  Japan- 
ese coin  to  deduct  fifteen  per  cent,  to  pay  for  the 
loss  of  melting  and  coining.  I  told  them  the  de- 
mand was  unreasonable,  and  that  I  could  not  agree 
to  it.  They  then  asked  me  to  give  them  a  counter- 
proposition;  I  accordingly  made  three  distinct 
offers : — 

(1)  The  dollar  in  silver  to  pass  by  tale  for  three 
bus,  or  forty-eight  hundred  sen. 

(2)  Weighing  the  coin  as  proposed  by  them 
and  deducting  five  per  cent. 

(3)  That  inasmuch  as  they  said  their  coin  was 
composed  of  pure  silver,  or  pure  gold  without 
alloy,  that  if  that  statement  was  correct,  I  would 
allow  them  ten  per  cent,  discount,  and  that  any 
alloy  found  in  their  coin  should  be  deducted  from 
that  allowance,  and  that  any  increase  of  alloy  in 
the  coin  brought  by  Americans,  over  the  present 
standard,  should  go  to  swell  the  discount. 

The  third  proposition  was  instantly  rejected, 
with  such  manifest  trepidation  that  I  am  con- 
vinced that  their  coin  contains  a  large  amount  of 
alloy.  They  also  said  that  to  weigh  the  coin 
would  be  more  just  than  to  have  it  pass  by  tale, 
as  from  wear  or  other  causes  old  coins  were  never 
as  heavy  as  new  ones.  We  then  went  over  the 
ground  again  on  my  two  last  propositions. 

At  last  I  told  them  I  had  something  of  great 
importance  to  communicate  confidentially  and  to 


130  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

them  alone.  To  my  great  surprise  the  room  was 
at  once  cleared  of  all  but  the  two  Governors  and 
Moriyama. 

I  then  read  to  them  an  extract  from  a  letter  to 
me  from  the  Secretary  of  State,  which  was  to  the 
effect  that,  if  the  Japanese  sought  to  evade  the 
treaty,  the  President  would  not  hesitate  to  ask 
Congress  to  give  him  power  to  use  such  arguments 
as  they  could  not  resist. 

The  fluttering  was  fearful,  the  effect  strong. 
They  thanked  me  for  the  confidence  I  had  placed 
in  them,  by  reading  that  part  of  the  Secretary's 
letter,  and  asked  if  they  might  communicate  the 
same  to  their  government.  I  told  them  they 
could  do  so.  They  then  asked  me  to  give  them  a 
written  translation  of  the  paragraj)h,  so  that  they 
might  make  a  correct  translation.  This  I  de- 
clined, but  told  them  I  would  have  it  translated, 
and  that  Moriyama  might  use  that  paper  in  my 
presence  to  translate  it  to  them,  but  that  the  paper 
must  be  returned  to  me.  This  ended  our  proceed- 
ings for  the  day  at  half-past  four  p.  M. 

Wednesday,  March  4,  1857.  Met  the  Gover- 
nors at  noon.  The  room  was  cleared,  and  I  then 
handed  them  the  Dutch  translation  referred  to 
yesterday,  and  it  was  carefully  translated  into 
Japanese  by  Moriyama,  and  then  the  paper  was 
returned  to  me. 

Traveled   over  the  debates  of  yesterday  like  a 


SLOW  BUT  SURE  PROGRESS.  131 

horse  in  a  mill.  I  finally  demanded  a  categorical 
answer  to  the  three  points  open,  viz.,  currency, 
residence  of  Americans,  and  the  consular  rights. 
They  requested  me  to  place  all  my  propositions  in 
writing ;  this  I  declined,  telling  them,  that  once  I 
had  placed  my  name  to  a  paper  it  could  not  be 
modified,  and  that  I  wished  to  leave  a  door  open 
by  which  we  might  arrive  at  a  solution  of  the 
questions.  It  was  finally  agreed,  that  Mr.  Heus- 
ken,  as  from  himself,  should  give  them  an  unsigned 
paper  containing  the  substance  of  my  demands, 
the  paper  to  be  sent  to  the  Governor's  residence 
in  the  morning  of  to-morrow ;  and  that  we  should 
meet  again  for  the  dispatch  of  business  on  Friday. 

Friday,  March  6,  1857.  Met  the  Governors  at 
the  usual  place,  i.  e.  the  Go-yosho. 

I  asked  them  if  they  were  prepared  to  give  me 
answers  to  the  points  remaining  unsettled,  and  soon 
found  they  were  anything  but  ready.  They  said 
these  were  important  matters  and  must  be  calmly 
considered ;  that  the  Japanese  took  a  great  while 
to  consider  every  question ;  that  in  this  respect 
they  differed  from  the  Americans  who  decided 
promptly  on  all  questions. 

The  currency  question  again  came  up,  and  was 
again  gone  over  for  the  twentieth  time.  At  last 
I  told  them  my  mind  was  made  up,  and  that  I 
would  not  allow  more  than  five  per  cent,  for  re- 
coinage  ;  that  their  demands  were  exorbitant ;  that 


132  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

their  plea  that  it  cost  twenty-five  per  cent.  I  had 
fully  met  by  offering  to  have  it  done  for  five  per 
cent.,  and  that  it  appeared  as  though  the  govern- 
ment wished  to  squeeze  the  Americans  who  come 
here. 

This  elicited  a  direct  offer  on  their  part  of  tak- 
ing our  coins  at  six  per  cent,  discount.  To  show 
how  great  a  step  this  was  in  our  favor,  it  should 
be  remembered  that  heretofore  the  dollar  passed 
for  sixteen  hundred  sen,  but  the  last  offer  of  the 
Japanese  would  give  four  thousand  six  hundred 
and  seventy  for  the  dollar,  or  nearly  two  hundred 
per  cent,  more  than  they  formerly  allowed. 

I  refused  to  advance  from  the  five  per  cent. 
The  Prince  of  Shinano  rose  from  his  seat  and 
came  to  me ;  and,  while  standing,  begged  me  as  a 
personal  favor  to  him  to  yield  the  one  per  cent,  of 
difference ;  that  they  were  most  anxious  to  have 
the  matter  settled,  but  that  it  was  impossible  for 
them  to  go  further  than  they  had  done,  and  (mark 
this)  that,  if  they  took  the  coin  of  the  Americans 
at  less  than  six  per  cent.,  the  government  would 
lose  by  the  operation  of  recoinage.  Contrast  this 
with  their  solemn  assurance  that  it  cost  twenty- 
five  per  cent,  to  coin  the  money  of  Japan ! 1     The 

1  Regular  mints  were  first  established  in  Japan  in  1601.  The 
seigniorage  was  charged  at  an  extravagant  rate.  See  "  The  Cur- 
rency Question"  (1854-1869),  in  Inazo  Nitobe^s  United  States  and 
Japan,  pp.  71-74. 


SLOW  BUT  SURE  PROGRESS.  133 

mendacity  of  these  men  passes  all  human  belief. 
We  finally  adjourned  to  some  day  next  week. 

I  am  really  ill,  yet  I  am  forced  day  after  day 
to  listen  to  useless  debates,  on  points  that  have 
been  exhausted  and  are  only  varied  by  some  new 
phase  of  falsehood. 

Saturday,  March  7,  1857.  On  looking  over  my 
journal  for  February  25,  I  find  I  have  omitted 
two  important  matters. 

On  the  4th  of  October,  1855,  the  Secretary  of 
State  wrote  me  that  the  Navy  Department  had 
received  dispatches  from  Lieutenant  Rodgers  to 
the  effect  that  Reed  and  Dougherty,  two  Ameri- 
cans who  had  gone  to  Japan  to  establish  them- 
selves there,  had  been  ordered  away  from  Shimoda 
and  refused  permission  to  land  at  Hakodate. 
Lieutenant  Rodgers  also  wrote 1  that  the  Jap- 
anese version  of  the  7th  Article  of  Commodore 
Perry's  treaty  contained  the  words,  "  such  as  may 
be  necessary  for  them,"  in  connection  with  the 
agreement  to  permit  Americans  to  make  purchases 
of  goods  in  Japan.  I  was  informed  by  the  Depart- 
ment that  these  words  were  not  contained  in  the 
English,  Dutch,  or  Chinese  versions  of  the  treaty, 
and  I  was  directed  to  inquire  into  the  matter,  and 
see  if  they  were  actually  inserted  in  the  Japanese 
version. 

1  See  pp.  453-457  of  Perry's  Narrative  for  the  note  of  Com- 
mander John  Rodgers,  with  other  documents  and  information  on 
this  matter  of  Messrs.  Reed  and  Dougherty. 


134  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

I  asked  the  Governors  if  they  had  an  authentic 
copy  of  the  Treaty  of  Kanagawa,  and,  on  their  an- 
swering in  the  affirmative,  I  requested  them  to 
turn  to  the  7th  Article  of  the  treaty,  and  then 
asked  them  if  the  words  above  noted  were  con- 
tained in  it.  They  at  once  said  they  were  not  in 
the  article.  I  then  told  them  Lieutenant  Rodgers 
was  here,  that  the  Governor  had  assured  him  that 
these  words  were  contained  in  the  Japanese  ver- 
sion of  the  treaty. 

With  unmoved  faces  they  assured  me  they  never 
heard  of  any  such  statement;  that  the  Governor 
could  not  have  said  so,  and  that  there  must  be 
some  mistake  about  it.  I  then  complained  of  the 
ordering  away  of  Messrs.  Reed  and  Dougherty 
from  Shimoda  and  refusing  them  permission  to 
land  in  Hakodate.  They  answered  that  that  was 
wrong ;  that  they  ought  not  to  have  ordered  them 
away  from  Shimoda,  nor  have  refused  them  per- 
mission to  land  at  Hakodate. 

Sunday,  March  8,  1857.  A  cannon  from  the 
signal  hill  announced  a  foreign  ship  at  noon  to- 
day, and  caused  emotions  of  sincere  pleasure. 

On  ascending  a  height  near  the  consulate  I  saw 
the  blessed  stars  and  stripes  flying  from  a  barque 
which  was  standing  towards  the  inner  harbor, 
having  a  signal  for  a  pilot  flying.  The  pilot  was 
seen  pulling  off  to  her,  but  as  the  pilot  neared  her 
she  filled  away,  stood  off  until  she  was  fairly  in 


SLOW  BUT  SUBE  PBOGBESS.  135 

Yedo  Bay,  and  then  stood  southward.  What  does 
it  mean  ?     It  was  like  the  Flying  Dutchman. 

Monday,  March  9,  1857.  At  nine  this  morning 
the  barque  again  made  her  appearance  and  an- 
chored in  the  outer  harbor.  Mr.  Heusken  went 
on  board,  and  when  he  returned  he  brought  with 
him  Captain  Horner  of  the  barque  Messenger  Bird 
from  Boston  via  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Mr.  Ed- 
ward F.  Hall,  the  super-cargo,  presented  a  letter  of 
introduction  written  by  Hon.  David  L.  Gregg, 
U.  S.  Commissioner  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. 
Captain  Horner  has  his  wife  and  two  children  on 
board,  one  an  infant  born  at  sea  off  the  Caroline 
Islands. 

Mr.  Hall  having  come  via  San  Francisco,  I  got 
newspapers  up  to  the  8th  of  November,  or  six 
months  later  than  my  last  dates.  So  Mr.  Bu- 
chanan is  President.  When  I  last  saw  him  in 
London,  on  the  31st  of  October  last,  I  told  him 
that  I  had  no  doubt  he  would  be  the  next  Pre- 
sident. I  am  glad  to  hear  it,  and  trust  that  under 
his  administration  peace  and  quiet  will  settle  on 
the  land.  As  the  newspapers  were  only  from  the 
20th  of  October  to  the  8th  of  November,  there  is 
a  large  hiatus  in  details,  and  Mr.  Hall  being  only 
eighteen  years  of  age  could  not  give  me  many 
particulars.  Mr.  Hall  informs  me  that  he  has  an 
assorted  cargo,  and  wishes  to  trade  here,  and  that 
he  shall  then  proceed  to  Hakodate,  and  thence  to 


136  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

the  Amoor  River,  at  which  last  place  he  is  to  estab- 
lish himself  in  business  as  a  ship-chandler.  I  told 
him  that  I  was  still  negotiating  with  the  Japanese 
about  the  currency,  and  told  him  he  could  depend 
on  not  losing  over  six  per  cent,  on  the  money  he 
should  expend  here,  and  which  gave  him  great  sat- 
isfaction. 

Sent  word  to  the  Governors  that  I  wished  to  see 
them  to-morrow. 

Tuesday,  March  10,  1857.  Met  the  Governors. 
Told  them  the  arrival  of  a  ship  required  a  settle- 
ment of  the  currency  question.  They  stuck  at  the 
six,  and  I  at  the  five  per  cent.  I  proposed  that 
this  ship  should  settle  at  the  six  per  cent.,  but  that 
it  should  not  be  used  as  a  precedent.  They  said 
they  required  ten  days  to  settle  the  currency  ques- 
tion, as  they  must  send  to  Yedo. 

They  then  opened  on  ground  that  even  aston- 
ished me,  used  as  I  am  to  Japanese  falsehood. 
They  roundly  declared  the  Dutch  convention  did 
not  exist ;  that  it  was  a  false  report.  I  told  them, 
with  some  sternness,  that  I  had  seen  it  with  my 
own  eyes,  on  board  the  Dutch  frigate  (Medusa), 
in  October  last.  They  then  said  it  had  not  been 
ratified.  This  I  also  stopped  by  saying  that  it  did 
bear  the  ratification  of  the  Japanese  government. 
This  point  was  asserted  and  reasserted  by  them 
time  and  again,  and  as  often  met  by  a  plain  state- 
ment of  the  truth  by  me. 


SLOW  BUT  SUBE  PBOGBESS.  137 

Now  came  a  new  turn  ;  they  said  the  12th  and 
13th  Articles  had  been  stricken  out  of  the  Jap- 
anese copy. 

In  reply,  I  asked,  if  that  was  so,  how  was  it  that 
they  gave  me  a  correct  version  of  the  12th  and 
13th  Articles  from  their  copy?  The  Governor 
said  he  got  a  copy  made  for  himself  when  at  Yedo, 
before  it  was  acted  on  by  the  government.  I  asked 
to  see  his  copy,  when,  lo,  it  was  a  printed  and  not 
a  manuscript  copy.  I  called  their  attention  to  the 
fact,  but  they  made  no  reply. 

I  then  said  that  the  evidence  of  the  authenticity 
of  my  version  was  quite  satisfactory  to  me,  and 
that  it  would  be  so  to  my  government,  who  would 
act  on  it  as  authentic.  They  then  repeated  that 
those  two  articles  never  went  into  operation,  etc., 
etc.  I  told  them  that  Captain  Fabius  of  the 
Dutch  Navy  had  informed  me  that  the  buildings 
at  De*shima  had  been  sold  to  the  Dutch,  and  the 
ground  leased  to  them.  They  vehemently  denied 
the  truth  of  that  statement.  I  told  them  that 
negative  proof  was  nothing  against  credible,  posi- 
tive testimony.  It  was  now  past  four,  and  I  closed 
a  very  stormy  interview,  with  an  appointment  for 
the  next  day. 

Wednesday,  March  11,  1857.  I  went  yesterday 
on  board  the  Messenger  Bird  and  saw  Mrs.  Hor- 
ner, a  nice  person  indeed,  with  a  bouncing  baby 
in  her  arms.  This  home  sight  almost  made  me 
homesick. 


138  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

At  the  Go-yosho  at  half  past  eleven.  The  Gov- 
ernors again  wished  to  open  the  currency  question. 
I  told  them  if  they  would  give  me  satisfaction  on 
the  other  unsettled  points,  I  would  satisfy  them  in 
the  matter  of  the  currency.  After  a  great  deal  of 
debate,  in  which,  however,  they  did  not  repeat  the 
barefaced  assertions  of  yesterday,  they  requested 
me  to  put  the  two  claims  of  residence  of  Americans 
and  consular  rights  on  paper,  and  give  them  time 
to  consider  about  it,  as  it  was  a  matter  of  much 
gravity,  etc.,  etc.  I  assented  to  this,  and  so  closed 
our  business  for  the  present.  Again  visited  the 
barque,  and  after  chatting  for  an  hour  went 
home. 

Captain  and  Mrs.  Horner  and  Mr.  Hall  are  to 
breakfast  with  me  on  Friday  noon. 

Friday,  March  13,  1857.  Breakfast  party  as 
above.  Walk  to  a  place  where  can  see  Oshima. 
Day  fine  and  pass  it  most  agreeably.  Company 
leave  at  five  p.  m. 

In  the  evening  write  a  letter  to  the  Governors, 
on  the  two  points,  which  I  support  with  a  few  of 
the  strongest  arguments. 

Saturday,  March  14,  1857.  Mr.  Heusken  has 
translated  Mr.  Hall's  lists  of  merchandise,  and  goes 
with  him  to  assist  as  his  interpreter. 

Sunday,  March  15,  1857.  I  have  never  been  so 
ill  for  seven  years  as  I  am  to-day. 

Saturday,     March    28.      Moriyama   calls,    and 


SLOW  BUT  SUBE  PBOGBESS.  139 

wished  to  discuss  the  two  points,  which  I  decline. 
In  answer  to  my  questions,  as  to  the  state  of  public 
opinion  at  Yedo,  regarding  intercourse  with  foreign- 
ers, he  says  that,  taking  ten  persons  in  authority, 
three  would  be  in  favor  of  opening  the  country  at 
once  ;  two  would  be  in  favor,  but  with  delay  ;  three 
would  refuse  so  long  as  force  is  not  used,  but  would 
yield  to  such  a  demonstration  without  fighting ; 
and  two  would  fight  to  the  last.  Moriyama  says 
the  Governor  wishes  to  call  on  me  to-morrow. 
I  request  the  Prince  to  excuse  me  on  Sunday,  but 
that  I  shall  be  very  happy  to  see  him  on  any  other 
day  of  the  week. 

Sunday,  March  29,  1857.  The  barque  Messen- 
ger Bird  went  to  sea  early  this  morning,  bound  to 
Hakodate,  and  the  river  Amoor. 

Monday,  March  30, 1857.  The  Governor  visited 
me  to-day.  He  was  attended  by  a  very  large  train, 
but  only  a  vice-governor  and  the  interpreter  were 
admitted  to  my  private  rooms.  I  have  completely 
broken  up  the  system  of  having  a  cloud  of  secreta- 
ries and  spies  crowding  into  my  private  rooms. 
All  are  delighted,  except  the  writers  and  spies. 
Gave  the  Prince  a  Colt's  revolver,  one  of  three 
that  were  put,  in  the  case  of  arms  I  purchased  for 
the  King  of  Siam,  in  lieu  of  discount. 

Wednesday,  April  1,  1857.  Dispatch  letter, 
dated  March  28,  to  Council  of  State  in  reply  to 
their  letter  received  February  25.     I  have  delayed 


140  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

writing  this  letter  so  long,  in  the  hope  of  bringing 
things  to  a  quiet  close  here. 

Friday,  3d  April.  Governors  wish  to  see  me. 
Go  to  Go-yosho  at  two  p.  M.  They  wish  to  know  the 
contents  of  my  letter  to  Council  of  State.  Sorry, 
but  it  would  be  improper  in  me  to  disclose  it. 
They  ask  the  meaning  of  certain  words  in  12th 
Article  of  the  Treaty.  I  ask  for  a  piece  of  ground 
for  a  garden,  which  is  promised. 

Monday,  April  6,  1857.  Moriyama  calls  about 
garden  spot.  Have  given  me  the  piece  asked  for, 
about  one  eighth  of  an  acre.  Rent  six  bus  per 
annum. 

Tuesday,  April  7, 1857.  Moriyama  again ;  brings 
me  a  gardener,  the  occupant  of  the  land  I  have 
hired.  Have  a  chat  with  Moriyama,  as  he  is  quite 
alone,  and  therefore  more  communicative.  He 
says  that  I  shall  soon  have  an  answer  to  the  two 
points,  and  that  it  will  be  satisfactory  to  me ;  that 
I  must  not  hurry  them  too  much ;  that  but  a  short 
time  need  elapse  before  a  commercial  treaty  can  be 
negotiated,  etc.,  etc.  He  says  the  letter  to  me  was 
signed  by  the  whole  of  the  High  Council  of  Re- 
gents, the  power  next  the  Shogun ;  that  there  is 
another  council  of  five  to  seven  persons  who  are 
under  the  Regents.  The  Regents  are  not  heredi- 
tary officers ;  they  are  appointed  by  the  Shogun, 
and  hold  office  during  his  pleasure  alone.  That 
the  story  of  an  appeal  lying  to  the  Princes  of  the 


SLOW  BUT  SURE  PROGRESS.  141 

Empire,  when  there  is  a  difference  of  opinion  be- 
tween the  Shogun  and  his  Regents,  when  the 
defeated  party,  if  a  Regent,  performs  the  hara-kiri, 
if  the  Shogun,  resigns,  is  not  true.  No  appeal 
from  the  Shogun  exists  ; 1  his  veto  is  final.  If  a 
Regent  proposes  a  measure  which  is  negatived  by 
the  Shogun,  no  harm  arises,  but  if  he  renews  the 
recommendation,  and  it  is  again  rejected,  then  the 
Regent  does  perforin  the  hara-kiri. 

No  reports  of  the  Treasury,  War,  Marine,  or 
Commerce.  The  results  are  only  known  to  the 
Shogun  and  Regents  and  the  heads  of  each 
department.  Moriyama  says,  "  It  would  be  con- 
sidered impolite  for  a  person  to  make  any  in- 
quiries concerning  a  department  with  which  he 
is  not  connected."  The  English  of  it  is  that 
he  dare  not  make  such  inquiries.  I  put  down  the 
information  I  get  from  time  to  time  from  the 
Japanese.  I  know  there  is  much  falsehood,  but 
I  cannot  at  the  time  separate  the  true  from  the 
false. 

Shimonose'ki,  one  of  the  interpreters,  told  Mr. 
Heusken  that  all  the  buildings  at  Deshima  had 
been  sold  to  the  Dutch. 

Easter  Sunday,  April  12,  1857.  I  have  kept 
a  very  good  account  of  the  festivals  of  the  Church 
since  my  arrival  here.     It  has  served  to  bring  up 

i  No  doubt  the  average  Japanese  in  1857  believed  this  to  be 
true. 


142  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

many  pleasant  recollections  and  associations  of 
ideas  in  my  mind.  The  day  is  a  lovely  one ;  the 
fields  around  me  are  green  with  the  waving  wheat, 
or  finely  decorated  with  flowers.  An  abundance  of 
violets  grow  about  here. 

Monday,  April  13.  A  strong  wind  and  driving 
rain  from  the  southwest  serves  to  inaugurate  Easter 
Monday  at  Shimoda. 

Moriyama  calls  on  me,  nominally  to  see  me,  but 
in  reality  to  settle  the  wages  of  my  two  Japanese 
boys,  which  is  at  last  settled  at  six  bus  per  month, 
or  about  two  dollars.  The  vice-governor  last  De- 
cember wanted  me  to  pay  them  sixteen  dollars  per 
month. 

Moriyama  tells  me,  as  a  most  profound  State 
secret,  that  the  Prince  of  Satsuma  is  father-in-law 
to  the  Shogun.  I  knew  this  last  October.  M. 
says  that  although  the  Shogun  has  the  supreme 
power  to  appoint  or  displace  the  members  of  the 
High  Council,  yet  he.  is  influenced  by  a  council  of 
six  persons  or  families,  to  wit,  three  princes  of  the 
blood  and  the  powerful  nobles;  among  the  latter 
is  the  Prince  of  Satsuma.  In  other  words,  that  an 
oligarchy  governs  Japan.  Moriyama  says  that 
Japan  will  be  opened  to  foreigners  within  the  year. 
He  admits  that  the  Japanese  are  now  negotiating 
a  commercial  treaty  with  the  Dutch,  but  I  shoidd 
greatly  distrust  the  provisions  of  a  treaty  so  made. 
The  Dutch  are  altogether  too  fond  of  monopolies 


SLOW  BUT  SURE  PROGRESS.  143 

to  make  a  treaty  suited  to  the  present  wants  of  the 
commercial  world. 

Moriyama  informs  me  that  the  guns  presented 
to  the  Japanese  (fifty-two  in  number)  have  been 
taken  to  Yedo ;  that  eight  or  nine  of  them  are  to 
be  mounted  on  a  corvette  they  have  built  on  the 
"Western  model.  The  corvette  is  one  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  keel. 

Tuesday,  April  14,  1857.  The  chief  of  the 
Go-yosho  came  to  see  me  to-day.  At  last  they 
have  brought  me  my  account  for  seven  months; 
the  total  looks  alarming,  as  it  is  two  million  eighty- 
seven  thousand  and  nine  of  their  coins,  but  luckily 
that  is  fully  liquidated  with  the  sum  of  four  hun- 
dred and  forty-seven  dollars.  My  servants  (i.  e. 
the  Chinese)  are  the  heaviest  item  of  my  expenses 
here,  as  their  wages  amount  to  more  than  seven 
hundred  dollars  per  annum  ;  that  is,  for  four  men, 
and  I  also  give  them  their  food  and  lodging ;  while 
for  five  Japanese,  I  pay  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
two  dollars  per  annum,  and  they  board  themselves. 

The  Go-yosho  man  also  brought  me  a  Japanese 
Dictionary,  and  promises  in  a  few  days  to  bring 
me  some  school-books,  works  of  fiction  and  history. 

I  think  that  two  thousand  dollars  per  annum 
will  cover  my  expenses.  But  had  I  not  brought 
them  to  terms  about  the  currency,  I  should  have 
found  my  salary  insufficient  for  my  support. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

A   LONELY   EXILE.  — THE   PRESIDENT'S   LETTER. 

Wednesday,  April  15,  1857.  Moriyama  vis- 
ited the  consulate  to-day.  I  had  proposed  to  the 
Governors  that,  when  the  next  American  man-of- 
war  came  here,  salutes  should  be  exchanged  after 
our  fashion. 

Moriyama  says  the  Governor  would  be  much 
pleased  by  such  a  mark  of  friendship  as  would  be 
indicated  by  a  salute  to  the  flag  of  Japan,  but  pro- 
posed to  return  it  in  the  Japanese  manner,  i.  e., 
after  the  salute  to  send  a  high  officer  dressed  in  his 
kami-shimo,  or  robes  of  ceremony,  to  return  thanks 
for  the  salute.  I  told  him  that  would  hardly  be 
satisfactory ;  that  our  custom  was  to  give  gun  for 
gun,1  the  ship,  being  a  visitor,  to  salute  first,  and 
then  to  have  it  returned  from  the  land. 

1  There  is  no  record,  so  far  as  we  know  after  an  examination 
of  the  archives  of  the  United  States  Navy  Department,  of  an 
American  warship  firing  a  salute  to  the  flag  of  a  European  power 
on  other  than  equal  terms,  except  in  the  one  instance  of  the  first 
salute  ever  fired  by  a  foreign  magistrate  or  government  to  the 
American  flag,  by  the  Dutch  Governor  Johannes  de  Graeff ,  at  St. 
Eustatius,  West  Indies,  November  17,  1776.  See  the  New  Eng- 
land Magazine,  July,  1893.  When  in  1820  the  Portuguese  gov- 
ernor of  Teneriffe   declined  to  return  the  salute  of  the  U.  S.  S. 


A  LONELY  EXILE.  145 

I  told  him  that  I  was  anxious  that  the  Japanese 
should  take  their  place  among  the  civilized  nations 
of  the  world,  and  that  all  these  small  things  were 
so  many  steps  in  that  direction.  I  then  entered  at 
large  into  the  system  of  salutes,  and  explained  the 
manner  in  which  they  were  given  and  returned. 

The  Governors  having  expressed  a  wish  for 
books  of  all  branches  of  military  and  naval  science, 
as  taught  at  West  Point  and  at  the  Naval  School,  I 
sent  them  word  that  if  they  would  address  a  letter 
on  the  subject  I  should  at  once  forward  it  to  the 
Secretary  of  State,  and  that  I  had  no  doubt  the 
books  would  be  at  once  sent. 

Moriyama  then  said  that  he  wished  to  ask  me  a 
question,  and  that  he  wanted  me  to  consider  it  as 
a  dream,  i.  e.  to  forget  it.  The  query  was,  "  Sup- 
pose the  Governors  of  Shimoda  should  wish  to 
make  a  commercial  treaty  with  you,  what  would 
you  do  ?  "  I  replied  that  I  should  first  ask  to  see 
their  full  powers,  and,  if  those  were  satisfactory, 
that  I  would  then  show  them  mine ;  and  after  that 
we  would  go  to  work  at  a  treaty  at  once.  He  said 
if  that  was  so  that  they  had  misunderstood  me; 
that  they  supposed  that  I  would  only  negotiate  at 

Cyane,  Lieutenant  M.  C.  Perry  commanding,  except  with  one  gun 
less,  —  "  as  it  was  not  customary  for  Portugal  to  return  an  equal 
number  of  guns  to  republican  governments,  but  only  to  those  of 
acknowledged  sovereigns,"  —  he  got  no  salute,  and  the  Cyane 
burned  no  powder  in  compliment  to  Portugal  or  the  governor. 
M.  C.  P.,  pp.  54,  55. 


146  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

Yedo,  and  with  the  High  Council.  I  told  them 
that  they  had  confounded  two  things ;  that  what  I 
had  to  say  confidentially,  as  from  my  government, 
could  only  be  said  at  Yedo ;  so  also  the  President's 
letter  could  only  be  delivered  by  me  at  Yedo,  and 
in  the  Imperial  presence,  etc.  That  negotiations 
were  a  different  thing ;  that  I  was  ready  to  nego- 
tiate with  any  person  of  proper  rank  who  could 
show  me  the  requisite  full  powers. 

He  declared  that  they  were  not  negotiating  with 
the  Dutch  a  commercial  treaty  ;  that  as  soon  as 
they  were  ready  to  negotiate  on  that  point,  they 
would  negotiate  with  me. 

Moriyama  says  that  almost  all  the  books  of 
Japan  are  simple  reprints  of  Chinese  classics,  such 
as  Confucius,  Mencius,  etc.,  but  that  I  shall  have 
copies  of  such  purely  Japanese  works  as  they  have.1 

Saturday,  April  18,  1857.  My  servants  consist 
of  a  butler,  cook  and  his  mate,  washman,  two  house- 
boys,  one  water-carrier,  one  sweeper,  one  gardener, 
one  groom  —  in  all  ten  persons,  and  not  one  that  I 
can  do  without. 

I  am  much  concerned  at  the  non-arrival  of  the 
San  Jacinto.     Commodore  Armstrong  promised  to 

1  The  first  real  survey  of  Japanese  literature  given  in  a  foreign 
language  is  that  of  Mr.  Ernest  Satow,  Secretary  of  the  British 
Legation  in  Japan,  and  now  H.  B.  M.  Minister  to  Morocco,  in  the 
American  Cyclopedia.  The  Japanese  have  a  very  voluminous 
literature.  See  Japan:  in  History,  Folk-lore,  and  Art,  Boston, 
2d  edition,  1895. 


A  LONELY  EXILE.  147 

be  here  in  March,  and  now  more  than  one  half  of 
April  has  slipped  away.  My  last  letters  from  the 
United  States  were  dated  March  17,  1856,  more 
than  thirteen  months  ago.  How  much  may  have 
happened  in  that  time !     My  health  is  not  good. 

I  wish  the  frigate  would  arrive,  that  I  could 
have  some  medical  advice. 

Monday,  April  20,  1857.  A  miserable  wet  day. 
Send  word  to  the  Governors  that  I  wish  to  meet 
them  at  the  Go-yosho  to-morrow  at  noon.  I  wish 
to  engross  the  articles  already  settled  with  them, 
and  have  them  make  their  translation,  as  the  last 
is  always  a  work  of  much  time,  and  thus  I  shall 
be  able  to  expedite  the  whole  matter  the  more 
promptly  when  I  get  a  decision  on  the  "two 
points." 

Tuesday,  April  21,  1857.  Met  the  Governors 
at  noon  at  the  Go-yosho.  Agreed  to  settle  the 
wording  of  the  points  already  agreed  on.  Told 
them  I  should  write  them  a  formal  letter  request- 
ing them  to  give  me  their  version  of  the  7th 
Article  of  the  Treaty  of  Kanagawa,  as  when  Lieu- 
tenant Eodgers  was  here  (May,  1855)  they  had 
interpolated  the  words  "  such  as  may  be  necessary 
for  them  "  after  the  words  agreeing  to  trade.  I 
told  them  I  should  also  ask  them  for  an  explana- 
tion of  the  sending  away  of  Reed  and  Dougherty 
from  Shimoda,  and  refusing  them  permission  to 
land  at  Hakodate*,  in   1855.      I  inquired  when  I 


148  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

was  to  receive  an  answer  on  the  "two  points." 
They  could  only  repeat  that  they  were  anxiously 
looking  for  it  to  arrive  here  from  Yedo. 

I  found  the  matter  of  salutes,  mentioned  to  Mori- 
yama  on  the  15th,  is  a  perplexing  matter  to  them, 
so  I  let  it  rest  where  it  is  for  the  present. 

I  requested  the  Governors  to  order  the  Go-yosho 
officers  to  answer  certain  questions  which  I  had 
received  from  my  government  concerning  cotton, 
its  production  in  Japan,  etc.,  which  they  promised 
should  be  done.  I  called  their  attention  to  the 
breakwater  of  the  jetty  now  erecting  at  Kakizaki, 
that  it  is  so  short  that  at  low  water  of  spring  tides 
it  will  not  give  any  protection  to  boats.  I  left  at 
two  P.  M.  After  my  return  home  wrote  the  letter 
to  the  Governors,  referred  to  in  the  beginning  of 
this  entry,  and  settled  the  wording  of  the  articles. 

Saturday,  April  25,  1857.  I  have  given  some 
lessons  in  English  to  the  Imperial  surgeon  who 
attends  the  Governors  here ;  I  did  this  at  their 
request.  I  found  him  very  apt.  He  has  been 
absent  for  some  weeks  to  visit  his  sick  father  at 
Yedo,  and  to-day  came  to  renew  his  lessons.  I  did 
not  give  him  anything  but  a  letter  to  the  Gover- 
nors, in  which  I  told  them  that  I  should  be  very 
happy  to  give  instruction  in  English  after  I  had 
been  permitted  the  full  exercise  of  my  rights  as 
consul,  but  so  long  as  I  was  denied  any  of  those 
rights  I  must  decline  the  lessons. 


A  LONELY  EXILE.  149 

I  cannot  see  what  it  is  that  keeps  away  Commo- 
dore Armstrong;  if  I  had  a  vessel-of-war  here  I 
should  have  speedy  answers  to  my  demands  on  the 
two  points,  but  I  feel  sure  they  will  not  be  settled 
so  long  as  no  ship-of-war  comes  here.  The  Com- 
modore promised  to  be  here  in  March,  yet  April 
has  nearly  passed  away,  and  no  ship  has  come.  My 
last  letters  from  the  Department  of  State  were 
dated  in  October,  1855,  more  than  eighteen  months 
ago.  It  is  too  long  a  period  to  leave  me  here 
alone,  and  some  order  should  be  given  to  insure 
more  frequent  communication  with  me. 

Monday,  April  27,  1857.  The  Rhododendron 
Althea  is  now  in  beautiful  flower,  —  colors  chiefly 
pink.  I  have  planted  some  of  them  in  the  ceme- 
tery where  the  four  Americans  are  buried.1 

Flowers  of  the  Peony  —  China  poppy,  flowered 
peony,  and  "  tree-peony  "  brought  me  to-day. 

Monday,  April  27,  continued.  Moriyama  calls 
for  verbal  explanations  about  the  wording  of  the 
articles  already  agreed  on.  Find  it  is  a  cunning 
attempt  to  interpolate  words  of  different  meaning. 
Moriyama  says  very  coolly  that "  it  is  a  very  differ- 
ent thing  to  say  a  thing,  or  to  write  it ;  "  in  other 

1  Decoration  Day,  which  Mr.  Harris  thus  inaugurated  in  Japan, 
is  now  regularly  observed  with  formal  ceremonies  by  the  Amer- 
ican residents  and  officers  and  sailors  from  the  men-of-war  in 
port.  In  1894,  Rev.  W.  F.  Dierst  of  Tokio  cleaned  and  reset  the 
gravestones  and  renovated  the  cemetery. 


150  MR.  HARMS' S  JOURNAL. 

words,  they  are  always  at  liberty  to  deny  anything 
they  have  said  or  promised,  so  long  as  it  is  not  in 
writing. 

Tuesday,  April  28.  Busy  to-day  in  making  in- 
dexes of  the  correspondence  and  documents  of  the 
consulate.  Have  got  all  my  papers  in  perfect 
order,  and  only  await  the  arrival  of  a  ship  to  dis- 
patch a  large  amount  of  correspondence.  I  feel 
sure  that  what  I  have  accomplished  will  give  satis- 
faction. I  have  settled  the  currency,  so  that  one 
dollar  goes  as  far  almost  as  three  did  when  Com- 
modore Perry  left  the  question. 

I  have  opened  the  port  of  Nagasaki  to  Amer- 
ican ships  wanting  supplies. 

Americans  are  only  to  be  amenable  to  American 
authority  for  offenses  committed  in  Japan. 

American  ships  in  distress  that  have  no  money 
can  pay  for  all  necessary  supplies  by  barter. 

The  great  point  of  residence  of  Americans  is 
still  pending,  and  although  it  may  not  now  be 
admitted,  yet  I  have  placed  it  on  a  footing  which 
must  ultimately  secure  it. 

The  consular  rights  and  franchises  stand  on  the 
same  ground  as  the  rights  of  residence. 

I  have  fought  the  battles,  and  although  I  may 
not  receive  the  victory,  yet  victory  will  come,  and 
will  be  owing  to  my  labors. 

Wednesday,  April  29,  1857.  Moriyama  visits 
me  and  brings  the  Dutch  version  of  the  articles 


A  LONELY  EXILE.  151 

agreed  on.  I  find  it  correct  at  last.  One  would 
think  the  translation  of  a  paper  to  be  a  simple  pro- 
cess, but  it  is  not  so  with  the  Japanese,  for,  beside 
their  duplicity  and  constant  effort  to  vary  the  sub- 
stance, they  are  so  absurd  as  to  wish  to  have  every 
word  placed  in  the  Dutch  version  exactly  in  the 
order  it  stands  in  the  Japanese  ;  it  is  very  difficult 
to  explain  to  them  the  idioms  of  language,  or  the 
grammatical  structure  of  it ;  or  to  get  them  to  see 
that  although  the  placing  of  the  words  does  not  cor- 
respond with  theirs,  yet  the  meaning  is  the  same. 
Their  knowledge  of  Dutch  is  imperfect ;  they  have 
learned  the  language  as  spoken  by  traders  and 
sailors,  and  the  Dutch  they  use  is  not  only  that  of 
two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  but  it  is  limited 
to  the  subjects  above  referred  to.1  Hence  we  have 
great  difficulty  in  conveying  an  abstract  idea  to 
them,  and  it  is  almost  impossible  to  speak  figura- 
tively 2  to  them. 

As  a  specimen  of  the  cool  mendacity  of  the  Jap- 
anese even  about  things  that  are  tangible  to  the 
sight,  I  note  the  following.     The  island  of  Oshima 

1  "  Interpreter's  Dutch  "  was  quite  different  from  that  of  the 
scholars  in  Yedo,  who  read  the  Dutch  books  which,  for  over  a  cen- 
tury previous  to  1853,  were  leavening  the  Japanese  mind  and  pre- 
paring it  for  the  transformation  of  to-day.  Laurence  Oliphant,  in 
his  book,  Lord  Elgin's  Mission,  makes  the  same  complaint  of  the 
word  for  word  translators  of  English. 

2  On  the  peculiarities  of  the  Japanese  language,  its  matter  of 
fact  character,  see  Aston's  and  Chamberlain's  Grammars. 


152  MR,  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

is  in  plain  sight  of  Shimoda,  and  some  twelve  or 
fifteen  miles  distant  from  us,  so  that  it  comes 
within  the  limits  of  seven  ri,  or  sixteen  and  five- 
eighths  miles,  as  settled  for  the  Americans.  Yet 
the  Governors  coolly  tell  me  that  Oshima  is  twenty- 
five  ri,  or  fifty-nine  and  three-eighths  miles  distant 
from  Shimoda! 

Tuesday,  May  5,  1857.  It  is  now  eight  months 
and  three  days  since  the  San  Jacinto  left  here. 
Commodore  Armstrong  promised  me  he  would  be 
here  again  in  six  months.1  I  am  a  prey  to  unceas- 
ing anxiety ;  I  have  not  heard  a  word  from  Wash- 
ington since  I  left  the  United  States,  say  October, 
1855. 

What  can  be  the  cause  of  this  prolonged  absence 
of  an  American  man-of-war  ?  Where  are  the  Eng- 
lish ?  Where  are  the  French  ?  Above  all,  where 
is  the  Russian  Consul  ?  He  should  have  been  here 
before  this.  I  am  only  nine  days  distant  from 
Hong-Kong,  yet  I  am  more  isolated  than  any 
American  official  in  any  part  of  the  world. 

I  have  important  intelligence  to  send  to  my  gov- 
ernment ;  intelligence  that  will  give  an  immediate 
spur  to  our  trade  with  Japan,  yet  here  it  remains, 

1  What  Commodore  Armstrong  and  the  English  and  French 
were  doing,  and  the  reasons  for  the  delay  of  the  San  Jacinto,  are 
told  in  Dr.  Wood's  book  Fankwei.  The  Opium  War  in  China  had 
begun.  See  the  latest  account  of  it  in  the  Life  of  Sir  Harry 
Parkes,  who  was  afterwards  British  Minister  in  Japan. 


A  LONELY  EXILE.  153 

month  after  month,  without  my  being  able  to  com- 
municate it  to  my  government,  or  enabling  my 
countrymen  to  benefit  by  it.  The  absence  of  a  man- 
of-war  also  tends  to  weaken  my  influence  with  the 
Japanese.  They  have  yielded  nothing  except  from 
fear,  and  any  future  ameliorations  of  our  inter- 
course will  only  take  place  after  a  demonstration 
of  force  on  our  part. 

I  will  not  suppose  that  this  apparent  neglect 
arises  from  indifference  or  idleness  on  the  part  of 
our  naval  commanders  out  here ;  I  therefore  am 
left  a  prey  to  all  sorts  of  imaginations  as  to  the 
detaining  causes.  # 

Saturday,  May  9,  1857.  I  have  called  on  the 
Governors  of  Shimoda  to  redeem  the  promise  they 
made  me,  before  I  landed,  that  "  all  my  supplies 
should  be  furnished  at  the  same  rates  as  were 
charged  to  the  Japanese."  I  am  satisfied  that  I 
have  been  constantly  and  systematically  over- 
charged, and  I  sent  to  the  Governors  a  list  of 
prices  at  which  I  am  charged,  and  against  them 
I  placed  the  prices  that  I  have  obtained  from  time 
to  time,  from  Japanese  who  are  not  connected 
with  the  government.  The  difference  is  very 
great. 

Monday,  May  11,  1857.  Went  over  to  the  Go- 
yosho.  I  was  not  pleased  with  the  articles  offered 
to  me.  I  think  we  have  overrated  the  habit  of  the 
Japanese  in  making  elaborately  fine  articles  of  any 


154  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

kind.  The  genius  of  their  government  seems  to 
forbid  any  exercise  of  ingenuity  in  producing  arti- 
cles for  the  gratification  of  wealth  and  luxury. 

Sumptuary  laws  rigidly  enforce  the  forms,  color, 
material,  and  time  of  changing  the  dress  of  all. 
As  to  luxury  of  furniture,  the  thing  is  unknown 
in  Japan.  I  do  not  hesitate  to  say  that  the 
house  of  a  Prince  of  the  Empire  does  not  con- 
tain half  the  value  of  furniture  that  you  will 
find  in  the  house  of  a  sober,  steady  mechanic  in 
America. 

Simplicity  and  frugality  is  the  great  maxim  of 
this  country,  and  it  is  enforced  in  a  most  surprising 
manner.  It  would  be  an  endless  task  to  attempt 
to  put  down  all  the  acts  of  a  Japanese  that  are 
regulated  by  authority.  This  is  no  country  for 
modistes,  tailors,  jewelers,  and  the  whole  army 
that  fatten  on  the  imaginary  wants  of  the  West. 

Wednesday,  May  13,  1857.  For  the  purpose  of 
ascertaining  whether  gold  is  really  as  cheap  in 
Japan  as  the  Japanese  pretend,  I  ordered  two  mus- 
tard-spoons to  be  made  of  pure,  unalloyed  gold. 
They  wished  me  to  give  them  coin  to  make  the 
spoons  from.  This  I  declined,  as  it  would  defeat 
the  object  I  had  in  view. 

After  some  days  a  formal  message  was  sent  to 
me  by  the  Governors,  stating  that  by  the  laws  of 
Japan  gold  could  only  be  used  to  ornament  their 
swords,  and  that  its  use  by  the  people  in  any  other 


A  LONELY  EXILE.  155 

form  was  absolutely  prohibited.1  A  greater  false- 
hood was  never  uttered.  It  is  true  that  the  Japan- 
ese own  but  few  ornaments,  or,  indeed,  articles  of 
luxury  of  any  kind,  but  gold  is  used  in  weaving 
brocades,  in  decorating  saddles,  in  making  a  small 
chain  which  secures  a  small  basket,  which  contains 
a  cloth  with  which  they  wipe  perspiration  from 
their  faces,  and  for  women's  ornaments. 

I  told  the  messenger  to  say  to  the  Governors 
that  I  knew  that  gold  was  used  for  many  purposes 
besides  swords ;  but  even  if  that  was  not  the  case, 
it  was  nothing  to  me,  as  I  was  not  a  Japanese,  nor 
bound  by  Japanese  law. 

Moriyama  comes  to  say  that  the  Governor  has 
received  orders  to  go  to  Yedo,  and  that  he  is  to 
leave  early  to-morrow  morning ;  that  he  is  unable 
to  call  in  person  to  take  leave  of  me,  and  begs  me 
to  excuse  his  apparent  neglect.  I  send  him  mes- 
sages wishing  him  a  pleasant  journey  to  Yedo,  and 
a  favorable  reception  on  his  arrival. 

Thursday,  May  14,  1857.  I  have  received  a  cir- 
cular from  the  United  States  Patent-office,  asking 
for  a  great  variety  of  information   about  cotton,2 

1  Extract  from  the  Kindai  Geppio  (which  contains  brief  notes 
on  Japanese  history  from  1844  to  1863,  published  in  Tokio,  1873) : 
"  11th  month,  7th  day  (1855).  The  use  of  gold  or  silver  in  mak- 
ing utensils  of  all  kinds  was  prohibited."  This  is  one  of  several 
instances  in  which  Mr.  Harris  was  too  severe  in  his  generalizations. 
In  after-years  his  earlier  and  hastier  judgments  were  corrected. 

2  In  1895,  Japan,  with   nearly  fifty  large  steam-power  cotton- 


156  MR.  HARMS' S  JOURNAL. 

the  whole  being  put  in  the  form  of  twenty-seven 
questions.  These  I  had  translated  and  gave  them 
to  the  Japanese,  requesting  them  to  give  me  the 
desired  information. 

To-day  I  have  their  return.  It  is  a  beautiful 
specimen  of  Japanese  craft,  cunning,  and  false- 
hood. Their  great  object  appears  to  be,  to  permit 
as  little  to  be  learned  about  their  country  as  possi- 
ble, and  to  that  end  all  fraud,  deceit,  falsehood, 
and  even  violence  are  justifiable  in  their  eyes.  It 
is  true  that  this  is  the  most  difficult  country  in  the 
world  to  get  information ;  no  statistics  exist ;  no 
publications  are  made  on  any  subject  connected 
with  industry.  No  man  makes  experiments  to  im- 
prove his  implements,  or  to  increase  the  product 
of  his  lands  by  new  modes  of  culture ;  as  his 
father  sowed  and  reaped,  so  does  he ;  and  if  the 
crop  is  large,  it  is  his  good  fortune ;  if  it  be  poor, 
it  is  his  misfortune  ;  as  in  everything  else  in 
Japan,  the  motto  is  Quieta  non  movere. 

The  cultivator  never  measures  his  produce  to  see 
how  it  compares  with  that  of  his  neighbor,  or  with 
his  own  on  previous  years ;  he  is  entirely  ignorant 
of  the  mode  of  culture,  or  crops  produced,  at  places 
not  twenty  miles  distant  from  him.  The  great 
mass  of  the  people  are  literally  tied  to  the  spot  on 

mills,  with  the  best  improved  modern  machinery,  is  competing  for 
the  trade  with  India,  having  already  gained  much  of  the  trade  in 
cotton  stuffs  with  China  and  Korea, 


A  LONELY  EXILE,  157 

which  they  were  born.  Of  course  government  offi- 
cials, priests,  pilgrims,  etc.,  are  exceptions.  It  may- 
be that  some  few  of  the  traders  may  go  from  place 
to  place  in  pursuit  of  their  calling,  but  such  men 
in  Japan  have  no  eyes  for  anything  but  their 
traffic. 

Saturday,  May  16,  1857.  I  ordered  a  small  Bel- 
vedere to  be  erected  on  the  top  of  a  hill  near  the 
consulate,  so  that  I  might  enjoy  the  cool  air  during 
the  hot  season,  and  also  have  a  view  over  the  whole 
of  the  harbor.  To-day  they  brought  me  some  plans 
and  elevations  very  neatly  done,  with  estimate  of 
the  cost  of  the  work.  It  seems  to  be  a  most  im- 
portant matter  to  them,  as  they  have  been  a  number 
of  days  about  it,  and  many  persons  are  engaged  on 
it.  I  was  satisfied  with  their  plans,  and  accepted 
them.     The  price  is  fifteen  dollars. 

I  am  collecting  specimens  of  natural  history,  but 
they  are  meagre,  as  the  Japanese  will  not  bring 
me  one,  on  the  national  principle  of  concealing 
everything. 

Thursday,  May  21,  1857.  Nine  months  to-day 
since  I  arrived  in  Japan,  and  I  am  still  without 
any  communication  with  home.  Where  is  Com- 
modore Armstrong? 

The  Japanese  brought  a  horse  for  Mr.  Heusken 
to-day.  It  is  dearer  than  mine,  although  not  so 
good-looking  ;  but  this  is  Japanese  custom  —  always 
advance  the  price,  but  never  lower  it. 


158  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

Tuesday,  May  26,  1857.  To-day  I  have  a  reply 
from  the  Governors  about  the  prices  charged  me 
by  the  Go-yosho  people. 

It  is  plainly  and  unequivocally  a  full  support  of 
the  Go-yosho  rascality  in  all  of  its  ramifications. 
They  do  not  regard  the  promise  they  gave  me  last 
August  as  worth  the  breath  cost  them  to  utter  it. 
However,  to  lie  is,  for  a  Japanese,  simply  to  speak. 

Tuesday,  June  2.  Moriyama  brings  me  Mr.  Port- 
man's  1  Dutch  version  of  the  Treaty  of  Kanagawa, 
as  well  as  their  Dutch  version  made  from  the 
Japanese.  I  wish  to  have  a  copy,  to  save  the 
trouble  of  constant  reference  by  means  of  letters 
asking  for  copies  of  parts  of  Articles.  .  .  .  Burgo 
no  Kami  is  in  disgrace.  .  .  .  Took  a  walk  to  the 
southwest  of  Shimoda,  towards  Cape  Idzu.  It  is 
of  the  same  character  as  the  other  parts  seen ; 
every  possible  spot  is  cultivated,  and  as  many  in- 
habitants as  can  be  supported.  I  find  that  what  I 
considered  as  jungle  on  the  steep  hillsides  is  actu- 
ally all  planted  —  trees,  bamboos,  rushes,  etc. ;  all 
are  renewed  as  they  are  cut  off  for  use.  No  spot  is 
neglected ;  I  have  never  seen  a  person  that  had  the 
appearance  of  want  marked  on  his  countenance. 
The  children  all  have  faces  like  "  full  moons,"  and 
the  men  and  women  are  quite  fleshy  enough.     No 

l  The  Dutch  interpreter  for  Commodore  Perry,  and  afterwards 
of  the  United  States  Legation  in  Yedo  and  Tokio,  who  perished  in 
the  steamer  Ville  du  Harve. 


A  LONELY  EXILE.  159 

one  can  for  a  moment  suppose,  after  seeing  the 
people,  that  they  are  not  well  fed. 

Wednesday,  June  3.  Walked  up  the  valley 
of  Shimoda  towards  Matsusaki,  and  visited  a  new 
hot  spring.  It  is  arranged  as  a  bath-house,  like 
those  before  described,  but  the  water  is  much 
warmer,  and  more  strongly  impregnated  with  sul- 
phur. I  found  a  woman  in  the  bath  with  her 
child;  she  was  not  in  the  least  discomposed,  but 
gave  me  the  usual  "  ohio  " 1  (good  morning)  with  a 
smiling  face.  Her  skin  was  very  fair,  nearly  as 
white  as  a  Circassian's.  On  my  return  homewards 
I  called  on  the  Governor,  and  passed  a  very  agree- 
able hour  with  him. 

Monday,  June  8,  1857.  I  omitted  to  enter  the 
arrival  here  of  the  new  Governor,  who  comes  in 
place  of  Shinano  no  Kami.  His  name  is  Naka- 
mura,  Dewa  no  Kami.  I  have  at  least  carried 
every  point  triumphantly  with  the  Japanese,  and 
have  got  everything  conceded  that  I  have  been 
negotiating  for  since  last  September.  Among  my 
papers  will  be  found  a  copy  of  the  Convention,2 
which  contains  the  following  provisions :  — 

1.  Opens  the  Port  of  Nagasaki  to  American 
ships. 

2.  Gives  the  right  of   permanent  residence  to 

1  u  0  "  honorific,  and  "  hayo  "  early. 

2  See  the  text  of  this  document  in   Treaties  and  Conventions 
between  the  United  States  and  Other  Powers,  1776-1887. 


160  MB.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

Americans  at  Shimoda   and   Hakodate,   and   the 
right  to  appoint  a  vice-consul  at  the  latter  port. 

3.  Settles  the  currency,  so  that  where  we  paid 
one  hundred,  we  now  pay  only  thirty-four  dollars 
and  a  half. 

4.  Americans  to  be  exclusively  under  the  con- 
trol of  their  consuls,  and  to  be  tried  by  American 
law. 

5.  Concedes  the  right  of  the  Consul-General  to 
go  where  he  pleases  in  Japan,  and  to  be  furnished 
with  Japanese  money  to  enable  him  in  person,  or 
by  his  servants,  to  make  his  purchases,  without  the 
intervention  of  any  Japanese  official.  This  is  even 
more  than  I  was  instructed  to  ask  for  by  my  spe- 
cial instructions  dated  October  4, 1855.  No  classes 
of  Americans  are  named  in  the  second  article,  so 
that  missionaries  may  actually  come  and  reside  in 
Japan. 

Am  I  elated  by  this  success?  Not  a  whit;  I 
know  my  dear  countrymen  but  too  well  to  expect 
any  praise  for  what  I  have  done,  and  I  shall  esteem 
myself  lucky  if  I  am  not  removed  from  office ;  not 
for  what  I  have  done,  but  because  I  have  not  made 
a  commercial  treaty  that  would  open  Japan  as 
freely  as  England  is  open  to  us.  Besides,  it  is  so 
easy  to  criticise,  and  so  agreeable  to  condemn ;  it 
is  much  more  pleasant  to  write  "imbecile,"  "ass," 
or  "fool,"  than  to  say  "able,"  "discreet,"  and 
"  competent." 


A  LONELY  EXILE.  161 

Wednesday,  June  17,  1857.  To-day  we  signed 
the  Convention,  having  been  some  nine  days  in 
settling  the  wording  of  the  articles,  which,  by  the 
way,  is  a  work  of  much  difficulty,  as  the  Dutch  of 
the  Japanese  interpreters  is  that  of  the  ship  cap- 
tains and  traders,  used  some  two  hundred  and  fifty 
years  ago.  They  have  not  been  taught  a  single 
new  word  in  the  interim,  so  they  are  quite  igno- 
rant of  all  the  terms  used  in  treaties,  conventions, 
etc.,  etc.  This,  joined  to  their  excessive  jealousy 
and  fear  of  being  cheated,  makes  it  excessively 
difficult  to  manage  such  a  matter  as  the  present 
one.  They  even  wanted  the  words  in  the  Dutch 
version  to  stand  in  the  exact  order  they  stood  in 
the  Japanese!  Owing  to  the  difference  of  gram- 
matical structure,  this  would  have  rendered  it  per- 
fect gibberish. 

Monday,  June  22,  1857.  I  have  been  in  cor- 
respondence with  the  "  Council  of  State "  since 
October  25,  1856,  concerning  a  letter  from  the 
President  of  which  I  am  the  bearer,  and  I  have  had 
a  great  many  interviews  with  the  Governors  of  Shi- 
moda  of  late  concerning  the  manner  in  which  that 
letter  should  be  delivered,  as  well  as  [to  how]  certain 
communications,  which  I  wrote  them  I  was  charged 
with,  should  be  made.  They  wished  the  letter  to 
be  delivered  here  in  Shimoda,  and  the  communica- 
tions made  to  the  Governors,  while  I  demanded  to 
go  to  Yedo,  have  an  audience  of  the  Shogun,  and 


162  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

then  deliver  the  letter,  and  afterwards  make  the 
communications  to  the  proper  minister. 

The  Governors  now  produce  an  Imperial  man- 
date, under  the  "  seal  and  signature  Royal,"  com- 
manding them  to  receive  the  President's  letter  and 
bring  it  to  Yedo,  and  they  are  now  quite  dum- 
founded  that  I  refuse  to  yield  to  the  mandate. 

Tuesday,  June  23,  1857.  To-day  received  an 
official  and  also  a  private  letter  from  Mr.  E.  E. 
Rice,  "U.  S.  Commercial  Agent  at  Hakodate," 
announcing  his  arrival  at  that  place,  and  that  he 
had  "hoisted  his  flag."  He  writes  me  that  two 
ships  under  the  American  flag  are  there  from  Hong- 
Kong,  and  that  the  supercargo,  Mr.  Luhdorf,  has 
some  things  for  me,  which  Mr.  Rice  promises  to 
forward  to  me  if  they  are  landed  at  Hakodate,  but 
he  does  not  say  one  word  about  letters. 

This  is  most  tantalizing.  I  am  now  more  than 
ten  months  in  Japan,  and  have  not  as  yet  received 
a  single  letter  from  the  United  States.  As  no 
direct  communication  is  allowed  by  sea  between 
Shimoda  and  Hakodate  by  Japanese  junks,  my 
supplies  might  as  well  be  at  Hong-Kong  as  there. 
I  have  been  out  of  flour,  bread,  butter,  lard,  bacon, 
hams,  sweet  oil,  and,  in  fact,  out  of  every  kind  of 
foreign  supply  for  more  than  two  months.  I  am 
living  on  rice,  fish,  and  very  poor  poultry,  as  no 
game  of  any  kind  has  been  brought  to  me  for  the 
last  three  months. 


A  LONELY  EXILE.  163 

My  health  is  miserable.  My  appetite  is  gone, 
and  I  am  so  shrunk  away  that  I  look  as  though  a 
"  vice-consul  had  been  cut  out  of  me."  Where,  oh, 
where,  is  Commodore  Armstrong? 

Saturday,  July  4,  1857.  I  never  felt  more  mis- 
erable and  wretched  than  on  this  day.  Ill  in  health 
and  in  want  of  everything  but  low  spirits,  of  which 
I  have  an  abundant  supply. 

I  had  a  national  salute  of  twenty-one  guns  fired 
in  honor  of  the  day  by  the  Japanese,  I  paying  the 
expense,  which  was  less  than  two  dollars.  Dear 
New  York  !  how  I  wish  I  could  pass  the  day  there 
among  my  friends.  I  have  now  abandoned  all 
hopes  of  seeing  Commodore  Armstrong,  and  I  ac- 
cordingly have  made  an  effort  to  send  some  letters 
through  the  Japanese  to  Hakodate,  hoping  Mr. 
Eice  may  be  able  to  forward  them.  My  letters 
were  very  short  and  very  guarded,  as  I  do  not 
doubt  the  Japanese  will  open  them.  Although  the 
distance  from  here  to  Hakodate  is  under  six  hun- 
dred miles  by  land,  yet  the  Japanese  consume 
thirty-five  days  in  conveying  a  letter  there. 

Wednesday,  July  8.  Shinano  no  Kami  started 
to-day  for  Yedo,  for  the  purpose  of  reporting  my 
refusal  to  deliver  the  letter  of  the  President  any- 
where but  in  Yedo,  or  to  any  one  but  the  Emperor. 
They  assure  me  that  it  is  quite  preposterous  to 
even  think  of  an  audience  of  His  Majesty,  as  the 
laws  of  Japan  forbid  it.     As  it  happens,  they  also 


164  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

told  me  that  the  Council  of  State  could  not  write 
to  any  foreigners  (the  laws  forbidding  it),  and  as 
the  council  has  written  to  me,  I  am  shrewdly  in- 
clined to  think  that  they  will  be  found  equally 
pliable  in  the  matter  of  an  audience. 

Thursday,  July  23,  1857.  The  cannon  from  the 
lookout  hill  was  fired  at  noon  to-day,  and  it  caused 
such  joy  as  only  can  be  felt  by  those  who  have 
been  living  isolated  as  I  have  been  for  the  last 
eleven  months.  Mr.  Heusken  ran  like  a  deer  to 
the  top  of  the  signal  hill,  and  came  back  breathless 
and  streaming  with  sweat  to  say  that  there  was 
a  ship  in  sight,  about  ten  miles  south  of  the  har- 
bor; that  as  the  wind  was  not  very  fresh  she 
would  not  come  in  for  some  time.  He  started 
again  for  Vandalia  Point  (the  most  southern  point) 
to  watch  her  approach.  At  four  p.  m.  he  returned 
quite  downhearted  ;  the  ship  had  disappeared  in 
the  blue  haze  at  a  little  after  one  o'clock,  and  had 
not  reappeared ;  she  appeared  to  be  standing  about 
N.  E.  We  are  now  in  doubt  what  it  can  mean,  but 
think  she  must  be  bound  here  ;  else  why  approach 
so  near? 

Friday,  July  24,  1857.  Up  at  daylight,  and  off 
to  the  east  hills  that  command  a  view  of  the  bay  of 
Yedo  and  the  south  Pacific.  Alas  !  no  ship  could 
be  seen.  Whoever  she  was,  it  was  clear  that  she 
was  not  bound  to  Shimoda.  I  never  had  anything 
to  try  my  philosophy  so  harshly  as  this. 


A  LONELY  EXILE.  165 

I  am  inclined  to  think  that  she  was  not  the  Fly- 
ing Dutchman  (as  suggested  nationally  by  Mr. 
Heusken)  but  simply  a  whaler,  fishing  along  the 
coast.  I  wish  the  "blubber-hunter"  had  kept 
a  few  miles  further  from  land,  and  spared  us  the 
excitement  of  hope  and  the  bitter  disappointment 
that  followed. 

Monday,  July  27.  Made  a  present  of  my  third 
and  last  revolver  to  De*wa  no  Kami.  I  am  sorry 
to  hear  of  the  death  of  Abe  Ise  no  Kami  at  Yedo. 
He  was  the  second  member  of  the  Council  of  State, 
and  very  influential. 

He  has  always  been  represented  to  me  as  a  man 
of  great  intelligence,  and  one  that  fully  understood 
the  power  of  the  United  States  and  other  Western 
nations  ;  and,  above  all,  was  convinced  that  the 
time  had  arrived  when  Japan  must  abandon  her 
exclusive  policy,  or  be  plunged  into  the  miseries  of 
war.  He  is  a  great  loss  to  the  liberal  party  of 
Japan. 

Friday,  August  21.  Happy  day!  I  get  a  pack- 
age with  a  dozen  newspapers  and  some  China  let- 
ters from  Mr.  Rice.  He  writes  me  that  he  will 
forward  my  packages  about  October  next  by  a 
Japanese  schooner  (American  model)  which  will 
leave  about  that  time.  What  a  relief  to  have  this 
slight  glimpse  of  the  outer  world,  although  I  do  not 
get  any  American  letters.  This  day  is  the  anniver- 
sary of  my  arrival  in  Japan.     One  year  here,  and 


166  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

not  a  single  letter  from  America !  My  last  letters 
were  dated  February,  1856,  eighteen  months  ago ! 
How  much  may  have  happened  in  the  mean  time. 
Who  among  my  old  friends  has  death  removed? 
I  suppose  my  letters  must  be  packed  up  in  a  box, 
which  was  not  known  to  Mr.  Rice,  or  he  would 
have  sent  letters  in  place  of  newspapers.  What 
has  become  of  the  American  men-of-war  of  the 
East  India  squadron  ? 


CHAPTER  X. 

VISIT  OF  THE  POKTSMOUTH. — THE  FIEST  VICTORY. 

Monday,  September  7, 1857.  At  noon  to-day 
the  signal  cannon  again  gave  us  the  joyful  news 
that  a  foreign  ship  was  in  sight.  Mr.  Heusken 
went  over  his  old  ground,  and  on  his  return  in- 
formed me  that  a  heavy  ship  was  standing  in  for 
the  harbor ;  that  as  the  wind  blew  the  colors  end 
on,  he  could  not  make  them  out.  It  was  a  comfort 
to  think  that  she  was  coming  here,  although  we 
did  not  know  what  flag  she  wore;  at  all  events, 
she  was  from  a  civilized  land. 

It  is  now  one  year  and  four  days  since  I  was 
left  here  by  the  San  Jacinto,  and  full  six  months 
have  run  beyond  the  time  that  Commodore  Arm- 
strong promised  to  visit  me.  That  it  was  not  the 
Commodore  was  clear,  as  it  was  a  sailing-ship. 
The  wind  fell  provokingly  light,  and  at  seven  p.  M. 
the  boom  of  a  heavy  gun  came  from  the  ship. 
Mr.  Heusken  volunteered  to  go  to  her,  although  she 
was  some  ten  miles  off.  He  accordingly  started, 
and  did  not  get  back  until  one  A.  M. 

Tuesday,  September  8.  The  ship  proves  to  be 
the  United  States   sloop-of-war  Portsmouth,  Cap- 


168  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

tain  A.  H.  Foote,1  eighteen  days  from  Shanghai, 
where  he  left  Commodore  Armstrong  in  the  San 
Jacinto,  and  where  he  has  been  nearly  three 
months,  at  the  distance  of  seven  days'  steaming 
from  me.  The  Portsmouth  did  not  expect  to  visit 
Japan  when  she  left  Hong-Kong,  so  that  all  my 
letters  from  home  that  have  been  received  since 
April  last  (one  still  at  Hong-Kong)  have  not  come 
to  me.  She  brought  me  letters  from  Captain  Bell 
and  the  officers  of  the  San  Jacinto  only.  I  was  up 
all  night  eagerly  reading  the  newspapers  and  the 
few  letters  she  brought  me. 

The  ship  came  up  at  noon,  and  at  two  P.  M.  the 
captain  came  to  see  me.  He  was  much  pleased 
when  I  showed  him  the  Convention  of  June  17, 
and  said  that  all  would  be  surprised  at  my  success. 
He  told  me  that  he  had  great  difficulty  in  getting 
the  Commodore's  consent  to  come  here,  and  I  be- 
lieve it  was  only  obtained  by  some  medical  ruse 
by  which  the  ship  was  ordered  here  for  the  health 
of  the  crew.  Captain  Foote  told  me  he  had  the 
most  stringent  orders  not  to  enter  the  harbor  of 
Shimoda ;  that  he  was  to  stay  the  shortest  possible 

1  Andrew  Hull  Foote,  U.  S.  N.,  was  born  at  New  Haven  in 
1806,  and  entered  the  navy  in  1822,  becoming  a  lieutenant  in 
1830,  a  commander  in  1852,  a  captain  in  1861,  and  a  rear-admiral 
in  1862.  His  capture  of  the  Barrier  Forts  near  Canton  in  China 
in  1856,  and  his  services  in  the  gunboats  on  the  Mississippi  and 
other  inland  waters  during  the  Civil  War,  form  part  of  one  of 
the  most  noble  records  in  the  United  States  Navy. 


VISIT  OF  THE  PORTSMOUTH.  169 

time  here,  and  an  ungracious  addendum  was  made 
that  he  would  probably  have  to  bring  me  away. 

It  appears  that  Commodore  Armstrong  has  been 
occupied  from  December  to  June  in  protecting 
the  British  Colony  of  Hong-Kong,  thus  enabling 
Admiral  Seymour  to  employ  more  of  his  force  in 
active  hostilities  against  the  Chinese;  he  found 
himself  able  to  send  a  ship  to  Manila  to  inquire 
about  some  Americans  who  are  imprisoned  there 
under  a  charge  of  murder ;  and  he  was  also  able 
to  send  another  to  Singapore  to  inquire  into  — 
what  ?  —  a  case  of  salvage  !  !  !  However,  let  him 
pass  with  this  addition.  I  informed  Captain  Foote 
that  all  my  dispatches  from  the  government  were 
at  Hakodate,  where  they  had  remained  since  last 
May,  and  that  as  he  was  going  there  I  asked  him 
to  touch  here  on  his  return  and  give  me  my  letters. 
It  would  seem  as  though  the  Commodore  had  fore- 
seen this  request,  for  he  positively  ordered  Captain 
Foote  on  leaving  Hakodate,  to  stretch  out  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  from  land,  while  his  direct 
route  would  have  carried  him  about  twenty  miles 
south  of  Shimoda. 

Captain  Foote  invited  me  to  visit  his  ship  to- 
morrow to  receive  a  salute,  and  to  dine  with  him. 
He  then  went  over  to  the  Go-yosho  to  look  at  the 
lacquer  ware,  Mr.  Heusken  attending  him  as  his 
interpreter.  Employed  until  a  late  hour  of  the 
night  on  my  correspondence. 


170  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

Wednesday,  September  9,  1857.  I  told  Captain 
Foote  and  his  officers  that  I  was  deeply  mortified 
that  I  could  not  invite  them  to  dine  with  me,  as  in 
reality  all  I  had  to  offer  them  was  rice,  fish,  and 
tough  chickens;  they  begged  me  not  to  mention 
it,  as  they  had  been  fully  prepared  to  find  me  suf- 
fering from  privations,  owing  to  the  manner  in 
which  I  had  been  neglected.  Went  on  board  at 
two  P.  M.  and  had  my  salute  of  thirteen  guns  from 
the  heavy  68-pounders,  which  were  loaded  with 
full  charges,  and  not  with  the  usual  reduced 
charge  which  is  for  saluting.  A  pleasant  dinner 
in  the  cabin,  with  Captain  Foote  and  his  first 
lieutenant,  Mr.  Macomb,  son  of  Major-General 
Macomb,  of  Plattsburgh  memory. 

I  am  to  go  with  Captain  Foote  and  his  officers 
to  visit  the  Governor  to-morrow,  and  afterward 
dine  in  the  ward-room.  Returned  home  at  five  p.  m., 
and  went  to  work  and  wrote  to  a  very  late  hour. 

Thursday,  September  10,  1857.  To  the  Go- 
yosho  at  eleven  A.  M.,  and  had  a  pleasant  visit 
which  lasted  about  an  hour.  Captain  Foote  and 
his  officers  are  very  busy  in  making  purchases,  and 
they  are  delighted  at  only  paying  thirty-four  and 
a  half  cents  for  what  cost  the  San  Jacinto  one 
dollar.  Mr.  Heusken  is  constantly  occupied  with 
them,  which  retards  my  writing  sadly. 

Went  on  board  ship  at  one  p.  m.  and  remained 
until  G.ve9  having  dined  in  the  ward-room.     The 


VISIT  OF  THE  PORTSMOUTH.  171 

Portsmouth  appears  to  be  a  very  happy  ship.  I 
learn  from  Captain  Foote  that  he  took  Mr.  C.  W. 
Bradley  with  the  Siamese  treaty  to  Bangkok,  and 
that  the  ratifications  were  exchanged.  The  Senate 
struck  out  the  fifth  article,  which  nearly  lost  the 
treaty,  but  the  consul,  Mr.  Mattoon,  accepted  all 
the  provisions  of  the  article  (which  related  to  pass- 
ports) as  a  police  regulation.  I  am  pleased  to 
learn  that  the  treaty  is  working  admirably.  Ships 
have  already  loaded  for  New  York  and  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  a  large  quantity  of  American  tonnage  is 
employed  in  the  trade  between  Siam  and  China. 
Many  of  the  finest  American  clippers  have  traded 
in  this  manner  at  the  Menam. 

Captain  Foote  has  kindly  permitted  the  purser 
to  supply  me  with  flour,  butter,  and  pork  from  the 
ship's  stores,  I  paying  for  them;  and  a  great  favor 
it  is  in  two  senses  :  First,  to  be  able  to  get  them  at 
all ;  and,  second,  the  price  is  only  about  half  what 
they  would  have  been  at  Hong-Kong.  I  cannot 
find  words  to  express  my  thanks  to  Captain  Foote 
and  the  officers  of  the  Portsmouth  for  the  generous 
manner  in  which  they  have  divided  their  own  pri- 
vate stores  to  help  me  in  my  distressed  situation. 
Captain  Foote  supplied  me  with  a  quarter  box  of 
superior  tea,  two  jars  of  lard,  and  a  bag  of  pre- 
pared hominy.  From  the  ward-room  I  received 
half  a  dozen  fine  Virginia  hams,  and  five  smoked 
tongues.  I  had  nothing  to  give  them  in  return 
but  barren  thanks. 


172  MB.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

Saturday,  September  12,  1857.  Mr.  Heusken 
finished  his  copying  at  four  A.  M.,  and  having  made 
up  our  mail,  he  went  on  board  the  Portsmouth  at 
five  A.  M.  The  wind  being  light,  the  ship  did  not 
get  clear  off  the  south  point  until  three  P.  M. 

The  visit  of  the  ship  has  thrown  me  into  a  state 
of  intense  excitement,  as  may  well  be  imagined ;  I 
have  not  had  three  hours  of  consecutive  sleep  since 
the  signal  was  fired  announcing  her  approach. 

Thursday,  September  25,  1857.  At  the  Go- 
yosho  this  morning  at  eleven  o'clock;  the  Gov- 
ernors informed  me  that  they  had  received  letters 
from  Yedo  relating  to  the  President's  letter.  That 
after  many  anxious  consultations  it  was  finally  set- 
tled that  I  am  to  go  to  Yedo  in  the  most  honora- 
ble manner ;  and  after  my  arrival  I  am  to  have  an 
audience  of  the  Shogun,  and  then  present  the  letter 
of  the  President ! ! 

I  expected  that  something  would  follow  this,  — 
some  objectionable  proposition  that  I  could  not 
accept,  which  would  throw  the  responsibility  of  the 
non-delivery  of  the  letter  on  me,  but  nothing  of  the 
kind  occurred.  They  wished  me  to  agree  to  start 
and  stop  at  certain  hours  and  at  certain  places, 
saying  that  accommodations  suitable  for  me  could 
only  be  found  at  such  places,  etc. 

I  informed  them  that  I  should  be  willing  to  agree 
to  such  hours  as  might  prove  best,  and  to  stop  where 
I  could  be  best  accommodated;  but  I  could  not 


THE  FIRST  VICTORY.  173 

bind  myself  beforehand  to  any  hour  or  march ;  that 
I  must  not  only  be  free  in  my  action,  but  that  the 
escort  attending  me  must  be  under  my  command 
exclusively.  That  they  would  find  me,  as  a  reason- 
able man,  quite  ready  to  adopt  any  proper  sugges- 
tions on  those  points  on  the  road,  but  I  could  not 
be  bound  up  to  comply  with  their  regulations  be- 
fore I  knew  what  might  occur,  etc.,  etc.,  to  which 
they  at  once  assented. 

The  manner  in  which  I  am  to  salute  the  Shogun 
is  to  be  the  same  as  in  the  courts  of  Europe,  i.  e., 
three  bows.  They  made  a  faint  request  that  I 
would  prostrate  myself  and  "  knockhead,"  but  I 
told  them  the  mentioning  such  a  thing  was  offen- 
sive to  me.  The  Governors  informed  me  that 
Shinano  no  Kami  was  ordered  to  Yedo  for  the 
purpose  of  assisting  in  the  arrangements  to  be  made 
for  my  visit.  They  said  that  a  great  deal  was  to  be 
done  in  the  way  of  preparation,  and  that  it  would 
probably  require  some  two  months  to  complete  the 
arrangements.  In  the  mean  time,  they  will  con- 
sult with  me  in  preparing  my  retinue,  etc.,  etc. 

Monday,  September  28,  1857.  Shinano  no 
Kami,  with  Moriyama  Ydnoske,  started  yesterday 
for  Yedo.  The  commissary  of  Shimoda  came  to- 
day to  take  orders  for  procuring  the  men  I  shall 
want,  and  preparing  their  dresses. 

I  shall  not  take  any  of  my  Chinese  with  me,  as 
the  Japanese  have  a  great  dislike  to  the  Chinese, 


174  ME.  HAREIS'S  JOURNAL. 

and  I  do  not  wish  to  be  associated  in  their  minds 
with  the  Chinese  or  any  other  people.  I  shall 
therefore  only  be  accompanied  by  Mr.  Heusken 
and  my  two  Japanese  house  servants  from  my 
family.  My  own  train  will  consist  of  some  forty 
porters  bearing  my  luggage,  cooking  utensils,  bed- 
ding, etc.,  etc.,  and  by  the  following,  who  will  all 
have  the  arms  of  the  United  States  on  their 
dresses,  as  the  coat  of  arms  is  worn  by  the  Japan- 
ese, i.  e.,  20  norimono  bearers,  1  sword ;  12  guards, 
2  swords ;  2  standard  bearers,  2  swords ;  2  shoe 
and  fan  bearers,  2  swords ;  2  grooms,  1  sword ;  2 
commanders  of  the  foregoing.  All  except  grooms 
and  norimono  bearers  are  to  have  silk  dresses. 

I  am  to  be  attended  by  the  vice-governor  of  Shi- 
moda,  the  Mayor  of  Kakizaki,  the  commissary  of 
Shimoda,  and  by  the  private  secretary  of  the  Gov- 
ernor. They  will  have  together  a  tail  of  some  one 
hundred  and  fifty  or  more  men,  so  that  the  whole 
train  will  form  a  body  of  not  far  from  two  hundred 
and  fifty. 

Wednesday,  September  30,  1857.  My  health  is 
much  improved.  I  attribute  this  to  my  improved 
diet,  as  I  am  now  well  supplied  with  delicate  China 
pork,  my  sow  having  littered  thirteen  pigs  on  the 
5th  of  August  last.  I  have  no  doubt  that  the 
agreeable  termination  of  the  vexed  question  of 
the  reception  of  the  President's  letter  has  also 
been  of  great  service  to  me,  as  it  has  removed  an 


THE  FIRST  VICTORY.  175 

immense  pressure  from  my  mind.  I  cannot  help 
hoping  that  I  shall  be  able  to  do  something  sat- 
isfactory in  the  way  of  a  commercial  treaty  before 
I  leave  Yedo. 

Sunday,  October  4,  1857.  My  birthday;  I  am 
fifty-three  years  old ;  my  lease  is  rapidly  running 
to  its  close ;  God  grant  that  the  short  remainder 
of  it  may  be  usefully  and  honorably  employed. 
My  health  is  better  than  it  was  a  month  ago,  but 
far,  very  far,  from  being  as  good  as  it  was  this  time 
last  year.  Shall  I  ever  see  New  York  and  my  dear 
American  friends  again?  Doubtful,  but  God's 
will  be  done,  I  can  say  truly  and  heartily. 

Saturday,  October  17,  1857.  I  have  selected  a 
variety  of  such  things  as  I  have  that  will  probably 
be  acceptable  as  presents  to  the  Shogun  and  the 
ministers  at  Yedo.  They  consist  of  champagne 
and  sherry,  wines,  cordials,  and  cherry  brandy, 
books  of  natural  history  richly  illustrated,  tele- 
scope, barometer,  rich  astral  lamp,  rich  cut  decan- 
ters, preserved  fruits,  etc.  I  am  having  these  care- 
fully packed  up,  and  the  Japanese  prove  to  be 
very  handy  at  such  work.  I  have  been  almost 
daily  occupied  in  seeing  to  clothing,  etc.,  preparing 
for  my  people.  The  coat  of  arms  is  very  neatly 
done,  and  the  motto,  "  E  pluribus  unum,"  the 
eagle,  arrows,  and  olive  branch  quite  perfect.  I 
am  informed  that  the  news  of  my  visit  has  spread 
like  wildfire  over  the  country,  and  as  they  express 


176  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

it,  "  Millions  will  go  to  Yedo  to  see  the  grand  entry 
of  the  American  Ambassador."  They  will  call  me 
that  name  instead  of  Plenipotentiary,  as  the  former 
has  the  grandest  sound  in  their  ears.  They  tell 
me  that  printed  accounts  of  me,  illustrated  by 
drawings,  are  circulated  by  thousands.1  These  are 
not  in  the  form  of  newspapers,  but  are  analogous 
to  the  "broad  sheets  and  little  books"  that  pre- 
ceded that  mighty  engine,  the  newspaper. 

Tuesday,  October  20,  1857.  At  last,  and  four- 
teen months  after  my  arrival  in  Japan,  I  have 
received  my  letters  and  supplies  from  Hakodate, 
from  which  place  they  were  conveyed  in  a  schooner 
to  Yedo,  and  from  thence  they  were  sent  to  me  in 
a  Japanese  junk.     Thank  God  for  them. 

I  received  in  all  twenty-eight  letters,  but  not 
one  word  from  the  Department  of  State  about 
my  treaty  with  Siam,  or  one  word  in  answer  to 
some  of  mine  [to  which]  it  was  important  to  me  to 
receive  answers.  All  the  letters  from  the  Depart- 
ment were  printed  circulars  except  one,  dated 
August,  1856,  and  relating  to  a  debt  contracted 
by  two  Americans,  Reed  and  Dougherty,  with  the 
Japanese. 

1  These  were  the  nishiki-ye*  or  "  brocade  pictures,"  drawn  on 
and  printed  from  wooden  blocks,  and  gaily  colored,  being  zy- 
lographs.  These  pictures  are  usually  made  in  three  parts, 
which  are  pasted  together,  making  one  piece.  They  have  been 
unusually  numerous  during  the  war  between  Japan  and  China  in 
1894  and  1895. 


THE  FIRST  VICTORY.  177 

Saturday,  October  24,  1857.  I  find  that  the 
President  was  strongly  inclined  to  reward  my  ser- 
vices in  making  a  commercial  treaty  with  Siam  by 
removing  me  from  my  office  of  Consul-General  at 
Japan.  It  appears  that  the  treaty  reached  Wash- 
ington on  the  17th  of  September,  1856,  and  on  the 
same  day  the  "  New  York  Times  "  published  what 
it  said  was  the  actual  treaty.  The  President  held 
that  it  was  I,  and  I  alone,  who  communicated  it  to 
the  "  Times,"  and  was  for  my  instant  removal.  This 
was  only  prevented  by  the  friendship  of  Governor 
Marcy,  and  the  untiring  labors  of  my  kind  friend 
General  Wetmore.  The  President  appeared  to 
think  the  best  mode  of  proceeding  would  be  to 
punish  me  first,  and  then  call  on  me  for  my  de- 
fense. This  mode  of  procedure  is  quite  common 
among  oriental  despots,  but  I  am  inclined  to  think 
that  the  Western  rule  is  to  hold  every  man  innocent 
until  he  is  proved  to  be  guilty.  Had  the  Presi- 
dent, in  his  ardent  desire  to  punish  the  guilty, 
given  orders  to  compare  the  publication  in  the 
"  Times  "  with  the  official  copy  in  the  State  Depart- 
ment, he  would  at  once  have  seen  that  the  "  Times  " 
version  could  not  have  emanated  from  me,  nor 
from  any  one  who  had  an  opportunity  of  copying 
the  treaty. 

Wednesday,  October  28,  1857.  Moriyama  ap- 
peared at  my  house  this  morning,  having  just  re- 
turned from  Yedo.     He  brought  a  message  from 


178  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

Dewa  no  Kami,  requesting  to  meet  me  at  the 
Go-yosho  at  noon  to-day.  Moriyama  brought  me  a 
box  containing  files  of  the  "  Singapore  Free  Press," 
"  Illustrated  London  News,"  and  "  Java  Bode," 
which  were  forwarded  to  me  from  Nagasaki  on  the 
14th  of  August  by  Mr.  H.  Donker  Curtius,  by  sea, 
and  had  (of  course)  passed  by  Shimoda  and  been 
taken  to  Yedo.  Moriyama  informed  me  that  it 
was  true  that  publications  had  been  made  concern- 
ing my  visit,  and  added  that  the  government  had 
suppressed  them,  as  they  contained  so  many  mis- 
statements. On  going  to  the  Go-yosho,  De*wa  no 
Kami  showed  me  various  ground-plans  of  the  build- 
ing where  my  audience  was  to  take  place,  and  ex- 
plained their  views  of  the  ceremonies  to  be  had, 
etc. 

I  accepted  the  whole  programme,  with  one  excep- 
tion. They  proposed  after  my  audience  was  over, 
and  I  had  retired,  that  I  should  return  to  the 
Audience  Chamber,  not  as  the  representative  of 
the  President,  but  in  my  private  capacity ;  that  in- 
stead of  proceeding  to  the  place  I  formerly  occu- 
pied, I  should  stop  at  the  place  where  I  made  my 
first  bow;  that  the  Shogun  would  then  address 
me,  to  which  I  was  not  to  reply,  but  simply  bow 
and  retire. 

It  struck  me  that  there  was  some  petty  scheme 
of  glorifying  themselves  at  my  expense  in  this 
proposition,  and  I  avoided  it  by  saying  that  I  could 


THE  FIRST  VICTORY.  179 

not  divest  myself  of  my  character  of  Plenipoten- 
tiary which  had  been  conferred  on  me  by  the  Pres- 
ident, and  that  so  long  as  the  President  pleased,  I 
must  maintain  that  character. 

They  were  evidently  chagrined  at  this,  and  tried 
to  persuade  me  to  alter  my  decision,  assuring  me 
that  it  was  meant  as  a  personal  honor  to  me,  etc., 
etc.  I  replied  that  I  was  grateful  for  the  inten- 
tion, and  that  if  the  Shogun  wished  to  see  me 
at  a  private  audience  I  would  cheerfully  attend 
him,  but  that  it  must  always  be  in  my  official 
character. 

To-day  I  am  told  that  Shogun  is  not  the  proper 
appellation  of  their  ruler,  but  that  it  is  Tai-kun.1 
Shogun  is  literally  "  generalissimo,"  while  Tai-kun 
means  "  great  ruler."  The  genius  of  the  people 
shines  out  in  this.  For  more  than  a  year  I  have 
spoken  and  written  Shogun  when  referring  to  their 
ruler,  and  they  never  gave  me  any  explanation ; 
but  now,  when  I  am  on  the  eve  of  starting  for 
Yedo,  they  give  me  the  real  word. 

My  departure  is  fixed  for  Monday,  November 

1  This  term,  now  long  obsolete  in  Japan,  comes  into  view  again 
in  Korea,  where  the  Tai  (wen)  knn  or  father  of  the  king  has  been 
so  active  in  politics  for  a  generation  past.  The  term  Tai-kun 
(u  Tycoon  ")  was  first  assumed  by  the  Yedo  rider  in  dealing  with 
the  Koreans  in  the  seventeenth  century.  The  term  Shogun  or 
army  commander  is  of  very  ancient  use,  though  the  first  Tai 
Shogun  or  Great  General  who  also  exercised  civil  functions  was 
Yoritomo,  in  1192. 


180  ME.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

23.  They  proposed  Friday,  November  20,  but 
as  that  would  cause  me  to  pass  Sunday  among  the 
hills,  I  declined  it  and  fixed  on  Monday,  which 
will  cause  me  to  pass  my  Sunday  at  Kawasaki,  a 
town  about  fifteen  miles  from  Yedo,  on  the  banks 
of  the  river  that  brought  up  Mr.  Bittinger,  chap- 
lain of  the  Susquehanna,  when  he  made  his  dash 
at  Yedo  in  1854.1 

Friday,  October  30,  1857.  To-day  is  the  anni- 
versary of  the  first  visit  paid  to  me  by  the  Gov- 
ernors of  Shimoda,  and  according  to  appointment 
Dewa  no  Kami  visited  me,  attended  by  one  of  the 
vice-governors,  the  Mayor  or  Prefect  of  Kakizaki, 
the  commissary  of  Shimoda  and  his  private  secre- 
tary, besides  a  large  train  of  officers,  guards,  etc., 
etc.,  but  the  above  were  all  that  were  admitted  into 
my  private  room.  After  an  hour  of  pleasant  chat, 
we  sat  down  to  a  very  good  dinner  provided  in  our 
style,  and  they  did  full  honor  to  my  cheer,  both 
solids  and  fluids. 

As  soon  as  this  was  done,  the  dishes  were  re- 
moved, and  I  gave  them  a  second  one  in  Japan- 
ese style.  Still  they  ate,  but  nature  has  its  limits ; 
they  did  what  they  could,  but  fell  far  short  of 
their  first  performance.  They  left  me  at  five  P.  M., 
full  of  fun  and  good  cheer.  Their  conduct  at  table 
would  have  passed  in  any  society  of  New  York, 
Paris,  or  London. 

1  Perry's  Narrative,  p.  419. 


THE  FIRST  VICTORY.  181 

An  enormous  umbrella  has  been  added  to  the 
paraphernalia  of  my  tail  for  Yedo. 

Saturday,  October  31.  I  am  truly  grateful 
for  improved  health.  I  begin  to  recover  a  little  of 
my  lost  flesh. 

Wednesday,  November  18.  I  have  got  every- 
thing packed  up  and  ready  for  my  journey  to  Yedo, 
which  is  to  begin  on  Monday  next,  the  23d.  Visited 
the  Prince  of  Dewa  at  Nakamura,  to  take  leave  of 
him  before  my  setting  out,  according  to  Japanese 
custom.  The  Governor  gave  me  a  copy  of  a  treaty 
made  with  the  Dutch  in  January,  1856.  It  is  only 
a  recapitulation  of  the  substance  of  the  Dutch  Con- 
vention of  November,  1855,  except  that  it  withdraws 
the  right  of  the  Dutch  to  lease  the  grounds  and 
buy  the  buildings  at  D^  shim  a. 

Friday,  November  20,  1857.  Went  to  the  Go- 
yosho  at  the  special  request  of  the  Governor,  who 
gave  me  copies  of  additional  articles  made  with 
the  Dutch  October  16,  1857,  and  with  the  Rus- 
sians on  the  24th  of  the  same  month.  The  only 
points  of  importance  in  these  articles  are  those 
contained  in  my  Convention  of  June  17. 


CHAPTER  XL 

THE  TRIUMPHAL  JOURNEY  TO  YEDO. 

Monday,  November  23.  At  eight  this  morning 
I  start  on  my  journey  to  Yedo. 

I  went  on  horseback  ;  the  morning  was  very  fine, 
and  the  idea  of  the  importance  of  my  journey,  and 
the  success  that  had  crowned  my  efforts  to  reach 
Yedo,  gave  me  a  fine  flow  of  spirits.  The  Ameri- 
can flag  was  borne  before  me,  and  I  felt  an  honest 
pride  in  displaying  it  in  this  hitherto  secluded 
country. 

At  Nakamura,  about  one  mile  from  my  house, 
I  joined  the  main  cavalcade,  and  we  started  in  the 
following  order:  My  avant-courier  was  Kikuna, 
a  military  officer  with  a  rank  corresponding  to  cap- 
tain ;  he  had  his  horse,  and  norimono,  and  the 
usual  bearers  and  attendants,  but  before  him  went 
three  lads,  each  bearing  a  wand  of  bamboo,  with 
strips  of  paper  attached  to  the  top ;  they  cried  out 
alternately,  "  Shi-ta-ni-iro ! "  that  is,  "Sit  down," 
"  sit  down  ;  "  they  kept  some  four  hundred  yards  in 
advance,  and  their  cry  sounded  quite  musical. 

Next  to  Kikuna  came  the  American  flag  guarded 
by  two  of  my  guards.     Then  I  came  on  horseback 


THE  TRIUMPHAL  JOURNEY  TO   YEDO.    183 

with  six  guards  ;  next  my  norimono,  with  its  twelve 
bearers,  and  their  head  man,  bearers  of  my  shoes, 
etc. ;  then  Mr.  Heusken  on  horseback  with  two 
guards,  then  his  norimono  bearers,  etc.  Next  fol- 
lowed a  long  retinue  bearing  packages  containing 
my  bedding,  chairs,  food,  trunks,  and  packages 
containing  presents ;  my  cook  and  his  following. 

The  vice-governor  of  Shimoda  followed  with  his 
train,  then  the  Mayor  of  Kakizaki,  and  lastly  the 
private  secretary  of  the  Governor  of  Shimoda.  A 
Dutch  interpreter  was  carried  in  a  kago  in  Mr. 
Heusken's  rear.  The  whole  train  numbered  some 
three  hundred  and  fifty  persons.  All  the  bearers 
of  luggage,  etc.,  etc.,  were  changed  every  two  ri, 
or  about  five  miles,  and  I  was  glad  to  see  that 
these  men  were  all  paid  for  their  labor. 

My  "  Standard  Bearer  "  was  clothed  in  a  long 
kabi-ya,  or  gown  made  of  brown  and  white  calico 
of  a  particular  pattern  and  open  at  the  sides  like 
a  herald's  coat,  from  the  hip  downward.  My 
guards  were  clothed  in  silk  dresses,  and  had  the 
arms  of  the  United  States  on  the  right  and  left 
breasts  of  their  upper  garment ;  each  man  wore 
two  swords. 

The  norimono  of  Japan  appears  to  have  been 
made  after  the  model  of  the  iron  cages  said  to  have 
been  invented  by  Cardinal  Balue,  in  the  reign  of 
Louis  XI.  of  France.  They  are  so  low  that  you 
cannot  stand  upright  in  them,  and  so  short  that 


184  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

you  cannot  lie  down  at  full  length.  To  one  who 
has  not  been  accustomed  to  sit  with  his  legs  folded 
under  him,  and  the  whole  weight  of  his  body  press- 
ing on  his  heels,  the  posture  is  more  painful  than 
can  be  easily  imagined.  I  previously  had  a  nori- 
mono  made  for  me,  which  was  six  and  a  half  feet 
long,  like  a  palanquin  of  India,  which  enabled  me 
to  avoid  the  tortures  of  the  Japanese  norimono. 

The  packages  containing  my  bedding,  clothing, 
etc.,  were  covered  with  black  cotton  cloth  with 
the  arms  of  the  United  States  neatly  put  on  them. 
The  other  packages  were  nicely  put  up,  and  had 
a  little  pennon  with  the  United  States  arms  flying 
from  a  short  bamboo,  which  was  placed  upright  on 
each  package. 

My  norimono  bearers  were  dressed  in  dark  blue, 
with  the  arms  of  the  United  States  on  the  back ; 
these  were  picked  men,  twelve  for  me  and  eight 
for  Mr.  Heusken,  and  very  tall  for  Japanese. 

My  men  wore  a  peculiar  ornament,  which  is  pro- 
hibited to  any  below  the  bearers  of  princes.  It  is 
made  of  cotton  cloth,  gummed  very  stiffly,  and 
folded  back  and  forth  in  folds  about  three  inches 
wide.  It  is  about  thirty  inches  long,  and  has  one 
end  stuck  in  the  girdle  at  an  angle  below  the  right 
shoulder,  with  the  upper  end  projecting  a  little 
beyond  the  right  side  of  the  body ;  across  the 
upper  end  two  white  strips  run  diagonally  across 
all  the  folds.  * 


THE  TRIUMPHAL  JOURNEY  TO    YEDO.      185 

The  motion  of  the  body  causes  the  folds  to 
open  and  close,  something  like  the  action  of  a 
fan,  and  is  considered  as  being  very  beautiful  by 
the  Japanese. 

My  route  to-day  was  only  fifteen  miles.  It  con- 
tinued along  the  river  of  Shimoda,  the  ground 
gradually  rising,  and  the  river  diminishing  to 
a  mere  thread  of  water,  until  we  crossed  a  hill  some 
four  hundred  feet  high  which  separates  the  water- 
shed of  Shimoda  from  the  valley  of  Nashimoto. 
Our  midday  halt  was  at  Mitsukuri.  The  last  part 
of  the  ride  gave  us  the  sight  of  some  noble  cypress 
and  camphor  trees ;  one  of  the  latter  was  of  enor- 
mous bulk,  and  the  Japanese  said  it  was  many  hun- 
dred years  old.  Nashimoto  is  a  small  village  of 
about  one  hundred  houses,  very  prettily  situated. 
My  quarters  for  the  night  were  in  a  temple  which 
commanded  a  most  beautiful  view  of  the  hills  and 
valley,  and  of  the  village  which  lay  some  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  abruptly  below  us. 

I  have  remarked,  that  throughout  the  Catholic 
and  Pagan  world  the  most  picturesque  positions 
are  always  selected  for  churches  and  temples. 
I  found  that  much  attention  had  been  paid  to  the 
path,  for  it  cannot  be  called  a  road,  over  which 
I  passed  to-day.  Bridges  had  been  built  over  every 
stream,  the  pathway  mended,  and  all  the  bushes 
cut  away  so  as  to  leave  the  path  clear.  At  the 
temple  I  found  that  a   bathroom  had  been  built 


186  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

for  my  special  use,  and  every  attention  paid  to  my 
comfort. 

Tuesday,  November  24.  Started  at  eight  a.  m. 
Our  route  was  over  the  mountain  Amagi,1  which 
is  some  thirty -five  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  The  path  was  very  difficult ;  so  much 
so  that  I  was  compelled  to  leave  my  horse  and 
enter  my  norimono,  and  it  was  no  easy  matter 
to  carry  that,  even  with  eight  men  bearing  it,  as 
the  road  was  sometimes  at  an  angle  of  35°,  while 
the  zigzags  were  some  of  them  not  so  long  as  the 
pole  or  beam  of  my  norimono,  which  is  twenty-two 
feet  long.  Amagi  is  clothed  with  noble  trees,  con- 
sisting of  cypress,  pine,  camphor,  and  others  of  the 
laurel  family,  besides  many  of  whose  names  I  am 
ignorant.  The  orchidea  were  numerous,  and  offer 
a  rich  harvest  to  the  experienced  botanist.  We 
halted  on  the  top  of  Amagi,  whence  we  had  a  fine 
view  of  Shimoda,  Oshima  and  its  volcano,  with  the 
Bay  of  Suruga,  the  Gulf  of  Yedo,  etc.,  etc.  The 
descent  is  not  quite  so  abrupt  as  the  ascent  was, 
and  about  two  thirds  of  the  way  down  I  mounted 
my  horse  once  more.  As  I  descended,  the  valley 
opened  and  gave  some  beautiful  views.  On  the 
south  side  of  Amagi  I  saw  a  very  pretty  cascade. 
Passing  through  a  village,  I  saw  some  camellias 

1  Amagi  San  or  Yama  is  4700  feet  high,  and  has  given  its  name 
to  one  of  the  warships  in  the  Imperial  Navy  that  was  in  the  bat- 
tle off  the  Yalu  River,  September  17,  1894. 


THE  TRIUMPHAL  JOURNEY  TO    YEDO.      187 

which  were  already  in  full  bloom,  both  white  and 
red,  but  the  flowers  were  all  single. 

Passing  through  the  village  of  Yu-ga-shima  to  go 
to  my  quarters  at  a  temple,  I  turned  to  the  right 
from  the  road,  and  in  a  few  moments  I  had  my 
first  view  of  the  mountain  Fuji-Yama.  It  is 
grand  beyond  description  ;  viewed  from  this  place, 
the  mountain  is  entirely  isolated,  and  appears  to 
shoot  up  in  a  perfect  and  glorious  cone,  some  ten 
thousand  feet  high,  while  its  actual  height  is  exag- 
gerated by  the  absence  of  any  neighboring  hills  by 
which  to  contrast  its  altitude.  It  was  covered  with 
snow,  and  in  the  bright  sun,  about  four  p.  M.,  it 
appeared  like  frosted  silver.  In  its  majestic  soli- 
tude it  appeared  even  more  striking  to  me  than  the 
celebrated  Dwhalgiri  of  the  Himalayas,  which  I 
saw  in  January,  1855.  I  found  the  temple  at 
Yu-ga-shima  prepared  for  me  in  the  same  manner 
as  that  at  Nashimoto. 

Wednesday,  November  25,  1857.  Left  Yu-ga- 
shima  at  eight  A.  M.,  and  as  our  road  lay  over  a 
plain,  I  mounted  on  horseback.  As  I  proceeded, 
the  plain  widened  until,  in  many  places,  it  was 
three  miles  across  it.  The  scene  was  very  pleas- 
ing. The  plain  was  covered  with  a  heavy  crop  of 
rice,  of  which  the  harvest  had  just  commenced,  and 
it  reminded  me  of  the  golden  wheatfields  of  old 
Ontario.  The  houses  of  the  people,  the  mode  of 
cultivation,  the  dress  of  the  people,  and  all  minor 


188  MIL  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

particulars  were  exactly  like  Shimoda.  We  halted 
at  noon  at  a  hamlet  called  Ogiso ;  and  when  I 
mounted  my  horse  I  passed  on  in  company  with 
Kikuna  and  Mr.  Heusken  more  rapidly  than  my 
attendants  could  do  ; x  this  brought  me  to  the  town 
of  Mishima  at  three  p.  M.  This  town  is  on  the 
Tokaido,  or  great  road  of  Japan,  and  is  the  route 
traveled  by  the  Dutch  when  they  go  to  Yedo.  I 
may  here  remark  that  the  Dutch  have  not  been  to 
Yedo  for  the  last  ten  years,  their  tribute  having 
been  delivered  at  Nagasaki  to  the  Japanese. 

The  Dutch  thus  avoided  the  great  expense  of 
the  journey ;  but  this  has  not  relieved  them  from 
the  presents  they  made  on  the  occasion  of  those 
visits,  as  they  are  regularly  demanded  and  given 
at  Nagasaki. 

Mishima  contains  about  nine  hundred  houses, 
and  the  description  of  it  by  Kaempfer  in  1696,  after 
making  due  allowance  for  high  coloring,  will  apply 
to  it  now.  It  had  a  fine  temple,  situated  in  a  fine 
square,  and  surrounded  by  noble  trees,  but  it  was 
totally  destroyed  by  the  great  earthquakes  of  De- 
cember, 1855.  I  went  to  see  its  ruins,  and  in  my 
walk  I  was  surprised  at  the  numbers  of  the  people, 
which  were  apparently  far  more  numerous  than  the 

1  One  of  the  villages  passed  through  by  Mr.  Harris  was  that  of 
Ho-jo,  where  originated  the  famous  family  of  the  same  name.  At 
Kamakura,  during  the  thirteenth  and  early  part  of  the  fourteenth 
century,  they  ruled  Japan  as  Regents  in  the  name  of  the  "  Puppet 
Shoguns."     M.  E.  chapters  xiv.  and  xv. 


THE   TRIUMPHAL  JOURNEY  TO    YEDO.      189 

whole  population  of  the  place.  On  asking  for  an 
explanation,  I  was  told  that  the  time  of  my  arrival 
was  known  many  days  ago,  and  that  all  those 
who  could  procure  permission  had  come  to  Mi- 
shima  to  see  me,  and  that  some  had  come  more 
than  one  hundred  miles.  The  people  were  'per- 
fectly well  behaved,  no  crowding  on  me,  no  shout- 
ing or  noise  of  any  kind.  As  I  passed,  all  knelt 
and  cast  their  eyes  down  as  though  they  were  not 
worthy  even  to  look  at  me ;  only  those  of  a  certain 
rank  were  allowed  to  salute  me,  which  was  done  by 
"  knocking  head  "  or  bringing  the  forehead  actually 
to  the  ground. 

Thursday,  November  26,  1857.  As  our  march 
to-day  is  a  weary  one,  I  start  at  half  past  seven.  I 
stop  in  the  suburbs  to  visit  a  temple.  It  is  ap- 
proached by  a  noble  flight  of  eighty-five  stone  steps. 
There  was  nothing  to  mark  the  difference  between 
this  and  a  Chinese  Buddhist  temple  except  that  the 
Japanese  affair  was  less  gaudy  and  much  cleaner 
than  its  Chinese  fellow. 

We  were  now  on  the  great  road  of  Japan ;  it  is 
from  thirty  to  forty  feet  wide,  and  is  bordered  by 
very  noble  cypress,  pine,  fir,  and  camphor  trees. 
Many  of  the  cypresses  are  of  extraordinary  size. 
The  typhoon  of  September  22,  1856,  made  sad 
ravages  among  these  fine  trees.  I  found  marks  of 
its  effects  almost  every  hundred  yards.  We  soon 
began  to  ascend  the  spurs  of  Hakone ;  the  road  up 


190  ME.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

the  mountain  is  paved  with  flat  stones,  and  from  the 
total  absence  of  wheel  carriages,  or  of  horses  that  are 
shod  with  iron,  the  stones  are  quite  polished,  and 
so  slippery  that  it  is  dangerous  riding  a  horse  over 
them.  The  ascent  is  bad,  but  not  so  vile  as  that 
over  Mount  Amagi.  Near  the  top  of  the  mountain 
I  was  taken  to  a  temple  built  by  lyeyasu,  the 
founder  of  the  present  dynasty  of  Tai-kuns.  From 
the  top  of  Hakone  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  city 
and  Bay  of  Suruga.  Fuji-Yama  was  quite  near, 
and  altogether  a  different  affair  from  the  glorious 
view  at  Yu-ga-shima. 

A  short  distance  on  the  north  side  of  Hakone, 
and  about  one  mile  from  the  top,  stands  the  village 
of  that  name.  Here  is  the  celebrated  pass  into  the 
Yedo  district,  and  a  rigid  search  is  made  of  every 
norimono,  and  each  person  is  examined  as  to  his 
passport.  Here  the  vice-governor  of  Shimoda, 
after  a  vast  deal  of  circumlocution,  informed  me 
that  when  the  great  Princes  of  the  Empire  passed 
here,  the  door  of  the  norimono  was  opened,  and  an 
officer  looked  into  it  without  stopping  the  bearers ; 
that  it  was  a  mere  ceremony,  but  the  ancient  laws 
required  it,  etc.,  etc.  I  replied  that  as  I  was 
not  a  Japanese  subject,  and  being,  as  I  was,  the 
diplomatic  representative  of  the  United  States,  I 
was  free  from  any  such  search  ;  that  they  knew  what 
was  in  my  norimono,  and  could  inform  the  officers 
at  the  pass  that  there  was  nothing  forbidden  in  it. 


THE  TRIUMPHAL  JOURNEY  TO    YEDO.      191 

The  vice-governor  tried  for  some  time  to  change 
my  determination,  and  at  last  proposed  that  I 
should  ride  through  on  horseback,  and  then  permit 
the  search  of  the  empty  norimono.  I  decidedly 
declined  this,  telling  him  that  it  was  the  search 
under  any  form  that  I  objected  to.  He  then  said 
that  we  must  stop  until  he  could  send  to  Yedo  for 
instructions,  which  would  only  take  five  days.  I 
told  him  I  should  not  wait  five  days  nor  five  hours ; 
that  if  the  search  was  insisted  on,  I  should  at 
once  return  to  Shimoda.  The  poor  vice-governor 
was  in  great  tribulation,  and  finally  went  to  the 
guard-house,  and  after  a  delay  of  two  hours  re- 
turned with  word  that  it  was  all  settled,  and  that 
I  should  pass  unmolested. 

Owing  to  the  loss  of  time,  I  did  not  reach  Oda- 
wara *  until  long  after  dark,  but  I  was  not  sorry 
for  the  delay,  as  the  effect  of  my  train  with  an  im- 
mense number  of  flambeaus,  made  from  bamboo, 
presented  a  curious  and  novel  appearance,  as  it 
wound  and  turned  in  the  descents  of  the  mountain, 
making  a  figure  like  the  tail  of  an  imaginary  fiery 
dragon.  Beyond  the  walls  of  the  town  I  was  met 
by  the  officials  with  an  army  of  lanterns  of  all 
imaginable  sizes,  shapes,  and  colors,  all  decorated 
with  the  arms  of  the  owners. 

1  The  seat  of  the  powerful  second  Ho-jo  family  which  ruled 
Eastern  Japan  in  the  days  of  the  Ashikaga  Shoguns.  Chamber- 
lain's Hand-Rook  for  Japan,  p.  98. 


192  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

It  was  so  late  when  I  arrived  that  I  could  not 
see  much  of  the  town.  I  was  told  it  contains 
seven  hundred  houses,  while  Kaempfer  gave  it  one 
thousand  in  1696.  If  his  account  was  correct,  the 
town  has  lost  three  tenths  of  its  houses  during  the 
last  one  hundred  and  sixty  years.1 

I  should  here  remark  that  the  principality  of 
Idzu  ends  at  Mishima.  Idzu,  in  which  Shimoda 
is  situated,  is  one  of  the  poorest  provinces  of  the 
empire.  It  is  so  mountainous  that  only  a  very 
small  portion  of  it  can  be  cultivated,  and  it  has  no 
resources  to  support  any  large  population.  It  has 
no  town  of  ten  thousand  inhabitants,  and  the  moun- 
tain Amagi  cuts  off  the  rest  of  the  world  from  it, 
except  by  a  painful  and  troublesome  journey  over 
it.  The  Japanese  showed  their  astuteness  in  get- 
ting Commodore  Perry  to  accept  Shimoda  for  the 
Americans,  as  they  were  completely  isolated  by 
land,  and  they  could  easily  keep  away  any  undue 
number  of  Japanese  craft.  In  fact,  since  I  have 
been  at  Shimoda  I  have  never  seen  one  hundred 
and  fifty  vessels  at  one  time  in  that  harbor ;  while 
the  Japanese  assured  me  that  a  short  time  before 
my  arrival  it  was  not  unusual  to  see  from  three  to 
four  hundred  vessels  at  a  time,  and  that  during 
a  gale  of  some  days  seven  hundred  vessels  had  been 
there  at  one  time. 

Friday,  November   27.     Left  Odawara  at   half 

1  The  town  now  contains  14,000  inhabitants. 


THE  TRIUMPHAL  JOURNEY  TO    YEDO.      193 

past  eight,  and  at  noon  halted  at  Oiso.1  We  were 
ferried  over  the  river  Banriugawa,  which  is  now 
some  two  hundred  yards  wide,  but  in  the  rains  of 
May  and  June  it  is  over  one  mile  wide.2  The  land 
on  either  side  is  a  mere  bed  of  sand,  and  the  river 
is  filled  with  quicksands.  These  sands,  and  the 
great  width  of  the  river  during  the  floods,  joined 
to  the  very  low  banks,  render  the  bridging  of  the 
stream  very  difficult.  This  river  with  the  broad 
sands  and  low  banks  reminded  me  of  the  river 
Sone  in  India. 

Reached  Fujisawa  3  at  six  p.  M.  From  Odawara 
to  Fujisawa  it  is  almost  one  continuous  village, 
as  the  hamlets  are  only  separated  a  few  hundred 
yards  from  each  other.  Kaempfer  speaks  of  the 
crowds  of  travelers,  priests,  pilgrims,  nuns,  and 
beggars  which  thronged  the  Tokaido  when  he  was 
in  Japan.  Nothing  of  the  kind  was  seen  by  me. 
I  have  not  as  yet  seen  a  dozen  travelers  on  the 
road,  nor  met  any  of  the  great  trains  that  attend 
the  princes  when  they  travel.  In  the  towns  and 
villages  the  shops  are  all  closed  except  the  cook 
shops.  The  people  are  collected  in  large  numbers 
in  front  of  their  houses,  and  are  silent  and  motion- 

1  Oiso  was  more  famous  in  Yoritomo's  days  in  the  twelfth  cen- 
tury than  now,  though  the  entirely  modern  Japanese  practice  of 
sea-bathing  gives  it  new  importance.  Neesima  died  here  Jan- 
uary 23, 1890. 

2  Banriu  gives  its  name  to  an  Imperial  ironclad  warship. 

3  Famous  for  its  monastery,  temple,  legends.     S.  and  H.  p.  62. 


194  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

less  as  I  pass.  The  authorities  of  each  village  con- 
duct me  to  the  bounds  of  their  village,  where  they 
are  relieved  by  those  of  the  next.  They  salute  me 
on  leaving  by  a  prostration,  which  is  also  made  by 
my  new  conductors.  The  road  has  not  only  been 
repaired  and  put  in  order  for  my  reception,  but  it 
is  actually  swept  only  a  few  hours  before  I  pass 
over  it.  The  cross  roads  and  paths  leading  to  the 
Tokaido  are  closed  by  ropes  stretched  across  them. 
At  the  entrance  of  each  village  small  cones  formed 
of  earth  are  erected,  each  having  a  small  green 
sprig  in  the  top  of  it.  This  is  in  honor  of  me.  It 
reminds  me  of  the  "  Shiva  Lingas  "  x  of  India. 

All  the  people  I  see  are  clad  in  their  holiday  cos- 
tume, but  as  noted  at  Mishima  it  is  only  those  of 
rank  that  salute  me.  All  below  that  rank  kneel 
and  avert  their  eyes  from  me.  At  each  place 
where  I  halt,  the  front  of  the  house  is  decorated 
wTith  long  cloths  festooned  over  the  gates  and 
doors,  and  of  the  Imperial  colors,  i.  e.,  black  and 
white  stripes,  and  a  stake  is  always  found  placed 
to  which  my  flag-staff  can  be  attached. 

As  I  mounted  my  horse  after  being  ferried  over 
the  Banriugawa,  my  vicious  brute  of  a  horse  both 
bit  and  kicked  me.     The  little  finger  of  my  left 

1  Although  in  his  Siam  journal  Mr.  Harris  refers  to  the  phallic 
emblems  seen  by  him  near  Bangkok,  he  does  not  seem  to  have 
noticed  any  in  Japan,  where  the  worship  of  the  phallus  or  ling-am 
was  once  quite  general,  being  organically  a  part  of  Shinto  or  the 
indigenous  faith.     See  The  Religions  of  Japan. 


THE  TRIUMPHAL  JOURNEY  TO    YEDO.      195 

hand  was  very  painful,  and  I  ordered  some  leeches 
to  be  applied.  The  doctor  approached  with  great 
trepidation,  while  large  drops  of  perspiration  stood 
on  his  forehead.  I  asked  what  ailed  him.  He 
said  that  he  never  approached  any  person  of  such 
exalted  rank  before,  and  he  was  terrified  at  the 
idea  of  drawing  blood  from  me.  He  was  told  to 
forget  all  about  rank,  and  to  apply  his  remedy  as 
quickly  as  possible.1  The  leeches  are  very  small, 
and  of  course  are  not  very  efficient.  Excellent 
leeches  are  found  in  every  part  of  the  tropical 
East.  A  tank  like  those  of  Pulo  Penang  would 
be  a  pretty  fortune  to  a  man  if  he  had  it  in  New 
York.  I  have  known  the  bites  of  those  leeches  to 
bleed  for  twenty-four  hours. 

The  doctors  of  Japan  are  of  two  classes,  the  one 
following  the  European  mode  so  far  as  they  under- 
stand it ;  the  other  continues  the  old  Chinese  prac- 
tice. Their  medicines  are  generally  of  a  simple 
kind.  No  violent  chemicals  are  used,  and  calomel 
is  unknown.  Rhubarb  and  gentian  are  their  in- 
ternal remedies,  while  the  moxa  or  cautery,  with 
scarification,  is  applied  externally  in  local  inflam- 
mations, rheumatism,  etc.  Topical  bleeding  by 
leeching  and  cupping  is  also  used.  Vaccine  matter 
was  introduced  by  the    Dutch   a  few  years  ago. 

1  A  study  of  the  leeches  of  Japan  has  been  made  by  Mr.  C.  O. 
Whitman,  of  Milwaukee,  formerly  Professor  of  Biology  in  Japan, 
in  the  Quarterly  Journal  of  Microscopy,  London. 


196  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

I  was  informed  that  about  one  tenth  of  the  popula- 
tion have  been  vaccinated.  They  do  not  inoculate 
the  small-pox.  Still  the  ignorance  of  the  Japan- 
ese of  the  true  mode  of  treating  the  diseases  of 
children,  in  particular,  is  shown  in  the  frightful 
statement  made  to  me  by  the  Prince  of  Shiano,  that, 
out  of  one  hundred  children  born,  no  more  than 
thirty  reach  the  age  of  twenty  years.  My  sur- 
geon, having  finished  his  labor,  retired  a  proud  and 
happy  man :  happy  that  he  had  pleased  me,  and 
proud  that  he  had  been  called  on  to  attend  a  per- 
son occupying  my  position.1 

Saturday,  November  28,  1857.  Left  Fujisawa 
at  seven  A.  M.  The  road  is  very  pleasant  as  the 
plain  gradually  widens  as  we  approach  Yedo.  The 
Tokaido  from  Odawara  runs  quite  near  the  shore, 
except  where  it  crosses  the  peninsula  of  Sagami. 
See  many  marks  of  the  typhoon  of  September, 
1856,  along  the  road.  Fuji-Yama  begins  to  im- 
prove in  appearance   as  we  recede  from  it.     The 

1  To  the  doctors,  more  than  to  any  one  class,  is  Japan  indebted 
for  her  modern  renascence.  The  new  civilization  may  he  said  to 
rest  upon  medical  science.  Long  before  Perry's  arrival  the  phy- 
sicians taught  by  the  Dutch  at  Nagasaki,  and  scattered  all  over 
the  country,  began  the  creation  of  the  public  opinion  which  wel- 
comed Western  ideas.  See  the  Religions  of  Japan,  chapter  xii. 
In  1891  there  were  579  hospitals,  42,348  physicians  (mostly  prac- 
ticing according  to  European  science),  33,359  nurses  and  midwives, 
2706  pharmacists,  11,849  druggists,  besides  excellent  schools  of 
pharmacy  and  medicine.  Small-pox  is  nearly  eradicated,  and  the 
proportion  of  infants  reared  is  vastly  greater  than  in  1857. 


THE  TRIUMPHAL  JOURNEY  TO    YEDO.      197 

villages  are  larger  and  more  closely  connected  than 
on  yesterday's  route.  The  people,  all  in  holiday 
costume,  are  kneeling  on  mats  in  front  of  their 
houses  as  I  pass. 

At  noon,  stop  at  Kanagawa,  at  a  pretty  honjin 
placed  at  the  water  side.  This  is  an  interesting 
spot  to  me,  as  it  was  the  scene  of  Commodore 
Perry's  negotiations.  From  my  house  I  look 
across  the  bay  to  Yokohama,  the  place  where  his 
fleet  was  anchored.  I  was  much  surprised  by  the 
sight  of  three  ships  of  European  build  and  rig, 
which  with  two  schooners  were  lying  about  midway 
between  Kanagawa  and  Yokohama.  These  ships 
have  been  purchased  from  the  Dutch  by  the  Japan- 
ese, as  the  beginning  of  a  navy.  To  the  North- 
east from  Kanagawa  I  saw  the  steamer  which  the 
Dutch  presented  to  the  Japanese. 

Kanagawa  has  the  air  of  a  flourishing  town,  and 
has  much  increased  since  Kaempfer  described  it. 
It  is  the  nearest  harbor  to  Yedo,  and  must  become 
a  place  of  great  importance  whenever  Yedo  shall 
be  opened  to  foreign  commerce.1  I  left  Kanagawa 
with  regret,  and  pursued  my  road  to  Kawasaki 2 

1  Population  of  Kanagawa  in  1889,  11,345.  Of  Yokohama 
in  1892,  143,754 ;  of  the  Empire  of  Japan  December  31,  1893, 
41,386,265. 

2  Mr.  Harris  passed  over  the  road  later  made  famous  by  the 
attack  on  Mr.  Richardson  (to  whom  the  Japanese  have  erected 
a  monument)  by  the  clansmen  of  Satsuma,  and  the  story  of  the 
Japanese  Rip  Van  Winkle,  Urashima  Taro.  See  Chamberlain's 
J  land-Book  for  Japan. 


198  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

where  I  shall  pass  Sunday.  Ever  since  I  have 
been  in  this  country  I  have  refused  to  transact 
any  business  on  that  day,  or  even  to  receive 
a  message  from  the  Japanese.  They  now  fully 
understand  my  motives,  and  they  respect  me  for 
them. 

The  village  authorities  are  now  preceded  by  a 
body  of  policemen,  each  bearing  an  iron  rod  some 
half  an  inch  thick  and  six  feet  long.  Four  or  five 
iron  rings  are  attached  by  eyes  to  the  top  of  the 
rod,  which  make  a  loud  jingling  noise  as  the  foot 
of  the  rod  is  struck  on  the  ground  by  the  police- 
man at  each  two  or  three  steps.  They  alternate 
the  time  of  striking  the  rod  on  the  ground  by  a 
regular  measure ;  and  this,  with  the  different 
tones  of  the  rings,  makes  a  species  of  music. 

The  number  of  people  seen  increases.  They  are 
all  fat,  well  clad,  and  happy  looking,  but  there  is 
an  equal  absence  of  any  appearance  of  wealth  or 
of  poverty,  —  a  state  of  things  that  may  perhaps 
constitute  the  real  happiness  of  a  people ;  I  some- 
times doubt  whether  the  opening  of  Japan  to  for- 
eign influences  will  promote  the  general  happiness 
of  this   people.1     It  is  more  like  the  golden  age 

1  Whatever  be  the  facts  as  to  "  happiness,"  it  is  certain  that 
Japan's  increase  in  actual  wealth,  population,  and  popular  rights 
and  privileges,  since  the  introduction  of  the  ideas  and  methods  of 
Christendom,  is  amazing.  The  Resume  Statistique  de  L1 Empire  du 
Japan  (published  annually  in  Tokio  by  the  Imperial  Cabinet)  for 
1894  shows  this  most  eloquently. 


THE  TRIUMPHAL  JOURNEY  TO    YEDO.      199 

of  simplicity  and  honesty  than  I  have  ever  seen 
in  any  other  country.  Security  for  person  and 
property,  universal  frugality  and  contentment, 
seem  to  be  the  apparent  condition  of  Japan  at 
present. 

Sunday,  November  29,  1857.  The  first  Sunday 
in  Advent.  I  read  the  whole  service  for  this  day 
with  Mr.  Heusken  as  my  clerk  and  congregation. 
I  experienced  some  peculiar  feelings  on  this  occa- 
sion. It  was  beyond  doubt  the  first  time  that  ever 
a  Christian  service  on  the  Sabbath  was  read  audi- 
bly in  this  place,  which  is  only  thirteen  miles  from 
Yedo,  and  this,  too,  while  the  law  punishing  such 
an  act  with  death  is  still  in  force. 

I  now  learn  beyond  doubt  that  the  solitude  of 
the  great  road  is  caused  by  positive  orders  issued 
by  the  government,  prohibiting  any  travel  over  the 
road  during  my  journey  ;  and  as  my  route  for  each 
day  was  fixed  some  time  before,  they  could  make 
their  arrangements,  and  by  my  punctuality  the 
stoppage  of  traffic  was  only  for  one  day  on  each 
day's  route. 

Monday,  November  30,  1857.  To-day  I  am  to 
enter  Yedo.  It  will  form  an  important  epoch  in 
my  life,  and  a  still  more  important  one  in  the  his- 
tory of  Japan.  I  am  the  first  diplomatic  represen- 
tative that  has  ever  been  received  in  this  city,  and 
whether  I  succeed  or  fail  in  my  intended  negotia- 
tions, it  is  a  great  fact  that  will   always  remain, 


200  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

showing  that  at  last  I  have  forced  this  singular 
people  to  acknowledge  the  rights  of  embassy.  I 
feel  no  little  pride,  too,  in  carrying  the  American 
flag  through  that  part  of  Japan  between  the  ex- 
tremity of  Cape  Idzu  and  into  the  very  castle  of 
the  city  of  Yedo. 

I  left  Kawasaki  a  little  before  eight  A.  M.  and 
was  ferried  over  the  river  Rokugo,1  which  even 
now  is  both  broad  and  deep.  I  proceeded  to-day, 
after  much  deliberation,  in  my  norimono.  My  wish 
was  to  go  into  Yedo  on  horseback,  and  the  vice- 
governor  eagerly  encouraged  that  idea.  This  ex- 
cited my  suspicion,  and  after  much  difficulty  I 
discovered  that  none  but  the  "  daimios  "  or  princes 
of  the  highest  rank  can  enter  Yedo  in  their  no- 
rimonos  ;  all  below  that  rank  enter  the  city  on 
horseback  or  on  foot.  This  fact,  coupled  with  the 
Japanese  idea  of  seclusion  and  respectability  being 
equivalent  terms,  determined  me  very  reluctantly 
to  proceed  in  my  norimono. 

The  distance  from  Kawasaki  to  Shinagawa  is 
seven  and  a  half  English  miles,  and  the  houses 
form  almost  a  continuous  street  the  whole  way. 

At  Shinagawa  our  procession  was  re-formed ;  the 
vice-governor  now  led  the  way,  and  all  my  coolies, 
etc.,  were  kept  in  line,  and  the  whole  cavalcade 
was  nearly  half  a  mile  long.  They  proceeded  with 
a  slow  and  stately  step  along  an  unpaved  street, 

1  Spanned  since  1876  by  iron  bridges. 


THE  TRIUMPHAL  JOURNEY   TO    YEDO.      201 

some  forty  to  fifty  feet  wide,  and  bordered  with 
wooden  houses,  none  more  than  two  stories  high 
and  mostly  covered  with  tiles.  Every  Japanese 
town  is  divided  into  streets  of  one  hundred  and 
twenty  yards  long,  and  this  district  is  responsible 
for  the  conduct  of  all  in  it.  It  has  a  captain  called 
the  "  O-tono,"  and  he  has  policemen  under  him. 
From  Shinagawa,  I  found  that  these  divisions 
were  marked  in  an  unmistakable  manner :  a  strong 
stockade  is  erected  each  one  hundred  and  twenty 
yards  across  the  street,  and  has  a  pair  of  wide  and 
strong  gates.  These  gates  are  shut  at  a  certain  hour 
in  the  evening,  and  a  wicket  of  some  two  feet  square 
is  opened  for  the  passage  of  those  who  have  the 
right  to  pass  after  the  closing  of  the  main  gates. 
At  many  places  in  Yedo  this  stockade  is  double ; 
that  is,  a  second  one  is  erected  some  fifteen  yards 
distant  from  the  regular  one.  When  both  the 
stockades  are  closed  it  makes  quite  a  strong  defense 
against  anything  but  artillery,  and  is  admirably 
calculated  to  stop  the  advance  of  a  mob,  or  to 
secure  the  arrest  of  criminals.  Again,  Yedo  has 
between  eight  and  nine  thousand  of  these  streets, 
so  that  after  a  certain  hour,  it  is  cut  up  into 
that  number  of  little  forts.  From  Shinagawa, 
the  people  no  longer  knelt,  nor  did  they  avert 
their  eyes. 

The  authorities  made  their  prostrations  as  be- 
fore, but  the  people  remained  standing.     As  the 


202  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

authorities  were  changed  every  one  hundred  and 
twenty  yards,  there  was  a  constant  "  knocking  of 
heads."  A  large  proportion  of  the  assemblage 
wore  two  swords,  showing  they  were  of  some  rank, 
and  almost  all  had  on  the  kami-shimo,  or  dress  of 
ceremony.  The  number  admitted  into  the  streets 
through  which  I  passed  formed  a  rank  of  five  deep 
on  each  side  of  the  way ;  every  cross  street  had 
its  stockade  closed  to  prevent  too  great  a  crowd, 
and  as  I  looked  up  and  down  those  streets  they 
seemed  a  solid  mass  of  men  and  women.  The 
most  perfect  order  was  maintained  from  Shina- 
gawa  to  my  lodgings,  a  distance  of  over  seven 
miles.  Not  a  shout  or  cry  was  heard ;  the  silence 
of  such  a  vast  multitude  had  something  appalling 
in  it.  Lord  Byron  called  a  silent  woman  "sleep- 
ing thunder." 

I  calculated  the  number  of  persons  that  lined 
the  street  from  Shinagawa  to  my  residence  at  one 
hundred  and  eighty-five  thousand.  I  called  the 
distance  seven  miles,  that  each  person  occupied  two 
feet  of  front  in  his  lines,  and  that  the  lines  were 
five  deep  on  each  side  of  the  way.  This  calcula- 
tion excludes  all  those  who  were  in  the  cross 
streets  or  on  the  tops  of  the  houses.  In  front  of 
the  lines  of  the  spectators  stood  men  about  ten  feet 
apart,  each  armed  with  a  long  white  stave  like  a 
marshal's  staff  in  the  courts  of  New  York.  These 
men  wore  clothes  of  various  colors,  some  green, 


THE  TRIUMPHAL  JOURNEY  TO    YEBO.      203 

some  blue,  black,  gray,  etc.,  while  the  coats  of 
arms  were  so  various  that  it  easily  appeared  that 
they  were  the  retainers  of  persons  of  rank,  who 
"kept  the  ground"  in  the  vicinity  of  their  resi- 
dences. 

The  people  all  appeared  clean,  well  clad,  and 
well  fed.  Indeed,  I  have  never  seen  a  case  of 
squalid  misery  since  I  have  been  in  Japan.  A 
large  number  of  officers  of  police  attended  the  pro- 
cession. In  addition  to  his  two  swords,  each  one 
bore  an  iron  truncheon  about  two  feet  long  and 
one  inch  in  diameter,  a  savage  and  dangerous 
weapon  in  the  hands  of  a  passionate  or  violent 
man  ;  but  there  was  no  use  for  them,  nor  any  ap- 
parent need  of  the  constant  cry  of  "  Satu  !  Satu !  " 
"Keep  back!  Keep  back!"  which  was  shouted 
forth  by  the  street-keepers. 

In  this  manner  I  went  on,  passing  over  seven 
bridges ;  the  fifth  was  the  Nippon  Bashi,  or  bridge 
of  Japan.  It  is  from  this  bridge  that  all  dis- 
tances are  reckoned  in  this  country.  After  pass- 
ing the  bridge  some  few  hundred  yards,  we  went 
in  a  nearly  N.  N.  W.  direction,  and  after  a 
while  we  reached  a  broad  moat,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  which  rose  a  stone  wall,  varying  from 
twenty  to  forty  feet  high,  according  to  the  make 
of  the  ground.  The  road  followed  this  ditch 
for  more  than  a  mile,  when  my  bearers  started  on 
a  full  run,  rushed   through  a  gateway,   across  a 


204  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

court,  and  ended  by  bearing  me  into  the  house. 
This  was  doing  the  matter  in  the  most  honorable 
Japanese  manner.  Mr.  Heusken  had  to  leave  his 
norimono  at  the  outer  gate. 

As  I  got  out  of  mine,  I  was  warmly  welcomed  by 
my  old  friend  the  Prince  of  Shinano,  who  con- 
ducted me  to  my  rooms,  and  pointed  out  the  ar- 
rangements made  for  my  comfort.  It  will  sound 
queerly  when  I  say  that  these  consisted  of  a  bed- 
stead, some  chairs  and  tables,  though  the  Japanese 
never  use  one  of  the  articles.  Their  rooms  are 
destitute  of  a  single  article  that  we  would  call 
furniture.  The  universal  mat  serves  as  chair, 
couch,  table,  and  bed.  Their  food  is  served  on 
stands  or  trays  from  three  to  ten  inches  high,  and 
is  contained  chiefly  in  wooden  bowls,  lacquered. 
Porcelain  is  only  used  for  drinking  tea  and  sake 
from. 

The  bath-room  was  close  to  my  sleeping  apart- 
ment. I  had  set  apart  for  my  special  use  a  bed- 
room, sitting-room,  and  dining-room.  Mr.  Heus- 
ken's  rooms  adjoined  mine,  and  consisted  of  a  bed 
and  sitting  room.  In  addition  to  this  1  was  shown 
my  reception-rooms,  which  could  be  increased  to 
any  size  by  merely  removing  the  sliding  doors.  In 
fact,  every  Japanese  house  may  in  a  short  time  be 
converted  into  a  single  room  by  this  simple  and 
expeditious  process. 

The  building  is  very  large.     It  is  government 


THE  TRIUMPHAL  JOURNEY  TO   YEDO.     205 

property,  and  was  formerly  used  as  a  college.1  It 
is  situated  within  what  is  called  "  The  Castle  ; " 
that  is,  it  is  the  outer  one  of  four  circles,  rather 
irregular  ones,  the  centre  one  of  which  is  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Tai-kun.  My  house  stretches  to  the 
road  that  runs  along  the  ditch,  and  on  the  opposite 
side  it  fronts  on  a  wide  street.  From  my  rooms  I 
see  the  stone  wall  before  mentioned  and  the  build- 
ings occupied  by  two  of  the  brothers  of  the  Tai-kun. 
It  is  the  "  Court "  part  of  the  city,  and  none  but 
persons  of  rank  reside  in  it. 

This  over,  the  Prince  informed  me  that  the  gov- 
ernment had  been  in  a  fever  of  anxiety  all  day  for 
fear  of  some  accident ;  that  the  people  were  wild 
with  curiosity  to  see  my  entry,  and  that  had  the 
government  not  used  the  most  stringent  measures, 
the  people  would  have  rushed  to  Yedo  "  by  mil- 
lions "  (those  are  his  numbers)  to  see  me ;  and 
finally,  that  all  of  the  inner  gates  of  the  city  had 
been  closed  ever  since  the  previous  night  to  keep 

1  In  this  structure,  originally  the  "  Office  for  the  Examination 
of  Barbarian  Books,"  i.  e.,  from  Europe  and  America,  lay  the 
germ  of  the  present  magnificent  Imperial  University  of  Tokio, 
with  its  colleges  and  faculties  of  Law,  Medicine,  Engineering, 
Literature,  Science,  and  Agriculture,  the  calendar  of  which  for 
1893-94  shows  a  grand  total  of  1396  students  and  565  living  grad- 
uates. The  edifice  in  which  Mr.  Harris  lodged  was  on  the  west 
side  of  the  old  Kai-Sel-Jo  inclosure  near  the  Kudan,  fronting  the 
Castle  moat,  and  not  far  from  the  Shimidzu  gate.  Significantly, 
coming  from  Shimoda  (low  field),  the  district  in  Yedo  where  he 
lived  was  named  Kauda  (high  or  divine  field). 


206  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

away  the  crowd,  and  thus  prevent  accidents  ;  that 
they  were  all  much  rejoiced  at  my  safe  arrival,  etc. 
He  then  informed  me  that  as  I  came  as  the 
representative  of  so  great  a  nation,  the  govern- 
ment had  appointed  eight  persons  of  distinguished 
rank  as  "  Commissioners  of  the  voyage  of  the 
American  Ambassador  to  Yedo."  I  did  not  ex- 
actly understand  what  was  meant  by  this  move.  I 
was  assured  that  it  was  solely  in  honor  of  me,  and 
that  nothing  connected  with  their  duties  could  give 
me  any  umbrage,  etc.,  etc.  I  told  him  that  with  this 
explanation  I  had  no  objection  to  make  at  present. 
The  Prince  then  gave  me  a  list  of  the  commis- 
sioners, which  was  as  follows :  — 

No.  1,  Toke,  Prince  1  of   Tamba. 

"    2,  Hayashi,  Prince  of  Daigaku. 

"    3,  Tsutsu,  Prince  of  Hizen. 

"    4,  Kawase,  Prince  of  Saiydmo.  ,   , 

"    5,  Inouye*,  Prince  of  Shinano. 

"    6,  Uyedono,  Mim-bu  Shoyu. 

"    7,  Nagai,  Prince  of  Gernba. 

"    8,  Tsukagoshi,  Tosuke. 

1  The  word  Kami,  here  translated  "  Prince,"  means  lord,  ruler, 
rector.  Hayashi  was  one  of  the  regents  of  the  University  or 
Daigaku.  None  of  the  daimios  were  "  princes  "  in  any  real  sense 
of  the  word,  that  term  being  properly  reserved  to  sons  of  the 
Emperor.  Further,  very  few  of  the  daimios  were  of  any  personal 
importance,  the  power  which  they  were  supposed  to  wield  being 
in  reality  held  and  used  by  able  men  of  low  rank,  who  made  the 
public  opinion  of  the  clan  of  which  the  average  daimio  was  the 
figurehead. 


THE  TRIUMPHAL  JOURNEY  TO   YEBO.      207 

Numbers  2  and  6  were  commissioners  with  Com- 
modore Perry  at  Kanagawa  in  1854. 

I  was  then  informed  that  the  next  morning  an 
ambassador  from  the  Tai-kun  would  wait  on  me  to 
congratulate  me  on  my  arrival,  etc.,  etc. 

The  Prince  of  Shinano  having  been  informed 
by  me  that  my  first  official  step  after  my  arrival 
would  be  to  write  to  Hotta,  Prince  of  Bitchiu,  in 
forming  him  of  my  arrival  at  Yedo,  that  I  was  the 
bearer  of  a  letter  from  the  President  of  the  United 
States  to  his  Majesty  the  Tai-kun,  and  asking  when 
I  could  have  an  audience  of  his  Majesty  for  the 
purpose  of  delivering  that  letter,  etc.,  etc.,  he  now 
asked  if  I  could  send  that  letter  by  him  at  once. 
As  the  letter  had  been  previously  prepared  at  Shi- 
moda,  and  only  required  to  be  dated  and  sealed, 
that  matter  was  soon  dispatched.  A  sumptuous 
repast  after  the  Japanese  fashion  was  now  served 
to  me  and  Mr.  Heusken.  Mr.  Heusken's  stands 
or  trays  were  four  inches  high ;  the  trays  for  my 
use  were  ten  inches  high. 

After  dinner  was  over,  I  told  the  Prince  that  it 
was  my  wish  to  pay  all  the  expenses  of  my  table, 
etc.,  etc.,  and  that  such  was  the  fashion  of  all  parts 
of  the  world.  That  otherwise  I  should  not  feel  at 
liberty  to  order  such  articles  of  food  as  best  suited 
me;  that  it  would  be  a  point  of  delicacy  to  eat 
whatever  was  sent  without  making  any  remarks, 
etc.,  etc.    He  replied  that  I  could  not  be  permitted 


208  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

to  pay  for  anything  sent  to  me,  but  he  thought 
there  would  not  be  any  objection  to  my  people  buy- 
ing anything  I  might  wish  to  have  prepared  by  my 
cook  that  I  had  brought  from  Shimoda.  This  was 
just  what  I  wished,  and  gave  me  full  satisfaction. 
At  last  the  Prince  left  me  to  repose  after  the 
fatigue  and  excitement  of  this  (to  me  important 
and  eventful)  day.1 

1  While  the  Hon.  John  A.  Bingham,  of  Ohio,  was  Minister  of  the 
United  States  in  Tokio,  he  met  one  of  the  old  officers  of  the 
Bakafu,  who  communicated  a  very  pleasant  account  of  the  recep- 
tion of  Mr.  Harris  in  Yedo,  the  route  traveled,  the  preparations, 
details,  etc.  See  Foreign  Relations  of  the  United  States  for  1S79- 
80,  vol.  i.  pp.  629-636. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

THE  AMERICAN   ENVOY'S   AUDIENCE   OF  THE 
SHOGUN. 

Tuesday,  December  1,  1857.  The  "  Commis- 
sioners "  of  my  voyage  to  Yedo  paid  me  a  visit  of 
ceremony  this  morning.  Their  various  retinues 
amounted  in  the  aggregate  to  some  hundreds ;  each 
one  had  his  pikes,  or  ensigns  of  his  dignity,  borne 
before  him,  and  led  horses  followed  his  norimono. 
The  caparisons  of  the  horses  bore  the  coats  of  arms 
of  their  noble  owners.  Among  others,  each  follow- 
ing had  fan  bearers,  slipper  bearers,  cane  bearers, 
etc.,  etc.  Each  one  had  his  kami-shimo,  or  dress  of 
ceremony,  brought  with  him  in  neat  lacquered 
boxes,  and  his  portfolio  was  neatly  wrapped  up  in 
silk  and  slung  over  the  back  of  a  particular  bearer. 

After  they  arrived,  they  went  at  once  to  rooms 
where  they  put  on  their  kami-shimos,  and  then  they 
proceeded  to  the  audience  chamber.  As  soon  as  they 
were  ready  I  was  informed,  and  I  also  went  there, 
attended  by  Mr.  Heusken,  the  Prince  of  Shinano, 
and  a  long  following  of  Japanese. 

On  my  entry,  I  found  them  drawn  up  in  a  line 
and  standing.     I  took  my  place  in  front,  and  then 


210  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

we  exchanged  profound  bows.  Toke,  Prince  of 
Tamba,  was  their  spokesman.  He  began  by  say- 
ing that  to  do  proper  honor  to  me  as  the  representa- 
tive of  a  great  nation,  his  Majesty  the  Tai-kun  had 
sent  them  to  congratulate  me  on  my  arrival  at 
Yedo,  and  to  inquire  after  my  health.  To  this  he 
added  the  personal  respect  of  himself  and  of  his 
colleagues.  I  made  a  suitable  reply,  and  then  each 
of  the  Commissioners  was  separately  presented  to 
me. 

As  Hayashi,  Prince  of  Daigaku,  and  Uye*dono 
Mim-bu  Shoyu  were  presented,  I  was  told  that 
they  were  among  the  Commissioners  who  negotiated 
with  Commodore  Perry  at  Kanagawa.  The  Prince 
of  Hizen  assisted  in  making  the  Russian  treaty. 

As  soon  as  these  particular  presentations  were  over, 
I  told  them  that  I  was  happy  to  become  acquainted 
with  persons  of  their  distinguished  merit,  and  that 
I  hoped  our  intercourse  would  prove  mutually 
agreeable.  They  returned  this  compliment.  Then 
followed  more  stately  bows,  and  I  retired,  attended 
as  on  my  entry.  The  Commissioners  are  rather 
intelligent-looking  men  taken  together,  while  some 
of  them  bear  faces  that  are  capital  introductions  to 
your  respect. 

The  Prince  of  Shinano  informed  me  that  the 
arrival  of  the  "  Ambassador  "  of  the  Tai-kun  was 
delayed  by  the  wish  of  his  Majesty  to  examine  per- 
sonally the  present  which  by  the  laws  of  etiquette 


AUDIENCE  OF  THE  SHOGUN.  211 

of  Japan  was  to  be  presented  to  me  by  the  Tai- 
kun,  and  he  then  added  that  after  it  had  been  ex- 
amined in  the  palace,  it  had  to  be  taken  to  the 
Great  Council  for  their  examination.  In  answer 
to  my  inquiries,  I  was  told  that  the  Tai-kun  cannot 
make  or  receive  the  smallest  presents  until  they 
have  been  examined  and  approved  by  the  Coun- 
cil of  State ! ! !  That  single  statement  convinced 
me  that  the  Tai-kun  was  a  mere  "lay  figure"  of 
government,  and  that  he  did  not  possess  a  single 
particle  of  political  power.  He  is  even  more 
restricted  than  was  the  Doge  of  Venice  by  the 
"  Council  of  Ten." 

A  little  after  midday  I  was  told  of  the  arrival  of 
the  "  Ambassador,"  and  on  entering  the  room  of 
audience  I  found  him  to  be  Toke,  Prince  of  Tamba, 
who  is  a  person  occupying  a  high  position  at  Court, 
and,  so  far  as  I  could  understand  the  matter,  some- 
what analogous  to  the  office  of  Chamberlain  at  the 
courts  in  the  Western  world.  In  the  toko  (or 
alcove),  and  placed  on  a  tray  of  white  wood,  stood 
a  box  some  three  feet  high,  which  was  tied  with  a 
broad  green  silk  braid.  I  took  my  place  near  the 
toko,  while  Toke*  stood  opposite.  We  then  saluted 
each  other,  and  the  prince  said  that  his  Majesty, 
knowing  that  I  had  come  from  a  far  distant  land, 
had  sent  him  to  inquire  after  my  health,  and 
whether  I  had  made  my  long  journey  without  acci- 
dent.    He  then  added  that  his  Majesty  had  sent 


212  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

"  a  small  present  "  for  my  acceptance.  This  ended, 
the  Prince  went  three  steps  down  the  room,  and 
from  that  place  paid  his  personal  compliments  to 
me,  and  made  inquiries  after  my  health.  This 
over,  he  returned  to  his  first  standing,  and  I  made 
a  proper  reply  to  the  kind  message  of  his  Majesty, 
and  returned  my  thanks  for  this  mark  of  his  kind- 
ness. As  I  spoke  of  the  present,  I  turned  towards 
the  box  and  bowed.  When  I  began  to  thank  the 
prince  for  his  personal  civilities,  he  again  retreated 
the  three  steps,  so  that  he  might  occupy  a  lower 
position  when  hearing  what  I  said  in  relation  to 
himself  than  the  one  he  stood  in  while  hearing 
what  I  said  in  relation  to  the  Tai-kun.  As  soon  as 
the  interpretation  of  what  I  said  was  finished,  he 
again  returned  to  his  original  place,  and  we  ex- 
changed bows ;  and  thus  the  ceremony  ended. 

When  I  reached  my  private  apartments,  the 
present  was  brought  in.  On  opening  it,  it  was 
found  to  contain  four  trays  of  Japan  bonbons, 
made  of  sugar,  rice  flour,  fruit,  nuts,  etc.  They 
were  arranged  in  the  trays  in  a  beautiful  manner, 
and  the  forms,  colors,  and  decorations  were  all  very 
neat.  The  quantity  was  about  seventy  pounds  of 
weight.  I  am  sorry  I  cannot  send  them  to  the 
United  States,  but  they  will  not  keep  for  so  long  a 
voyage. 

In  my  conversations  with  the  Prince  of  Shinano 
to-day  he  enlarged  on  the  difficulties  that  he  had 


AUDIENCE  OF  THE  SHOGUN.  213 

overcome,  and  the  great  labor  he  had  performed 
to  enable  me  to  come  to  Yedo;  he  spoke  of  his 
anxious  days  and  sleepless  nights ;  that  care  and 
anxiety  had  taken  away  his  appetite,  so  that  he 
had  become  lean  in  his  person ;  and  that  his  blood 
had  frequently  gushed  from  his  nose,  from  his 
great  agitation ;  that  he  had  done  all  this  from  his 
friendship  for  me,  etc.,  etc. 

Something  of  this  had  been  before  hinted  at, 
but  never  so  fully  expressed  as  now.  I  replied 
that  I  was  duly  grateful  to  him  for  his  friendship 
for  me,  but  as  he  appeared  to  be  under  a  great 
error  as  regarded  my  visit  to  Yedo,  I  must  now 
fully  explain  myself  on  that  point.  I  told  him 
that  I  came  to  Yedo  as  the  representative  of  the 
United  States,  and  not  in  my  private  capacity ; 
that  the  United  States  did  not  ask  anything  from 
the  government  of  Japan  as  a  favor  ;  that  it  only 
demanded  its  rights;  and  that  nothing  would  be 
accepted  on  the  ground  of  favor  ;  that  my  mission 
had  for  its  object  the  good  of  the  Japanese  Empire  ; 
and  that  it  was  no  favor  to  me  or  to  my  country 
that  they  should  listen  to  my  advice,  but  that  it 
was  the  Japanese  who  should  feel  grateful  to  the 
President  for  the  friendship  he  had  shown  to 
Japan,  by  the  messages  with  which  I  was  intrusted  ; 
that  for  myself,  individually,  I  had  no  wish  to  come 
to  Yedo,  and  that  I  only  came  here  because  my 
official  duty  required  it ;  that  I  hoped  he  now  fully 


214  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

understood  not  only  my  object  in  visiting  Yedo, 
but  that  he  would  clearly  see  that  it  was  not  any 
favor  to  me,  either  in  my  private  or  in  my  official 
capacity,  to  receive  me  at  Yedo. 

The  Prince  was  quite  chapfallen  at  this,  as  it  was 
the  evident  wish  of  the  Japanese  that  I  should  look 
on  my  reception  here  as  an  unprecedented  favor  to 
me,  both  personally  and  officially ;  and  thus  they 
would  establish  a  claim  on  my  gratitude  which 
might  be  of  great  use  to  them  in  the  negotiations 
that  might  be  commenced  here. 

However,  the  prince  confessed  that  my  view  of 
the  matter  was  a  just  one,  and  that  he  had  only 
looked  at  the  question  from  one  point  of  view,  and 
that  point  was  on  the  Japanese  side. 

Wednesday,  December  2,  1857.  This  morning, 
at  half  past  ten,  I  felt  a  smart  shock  of  earth- 
quake, not  severe  enough,  however,  to  do  any  dam- 
age. In  the  afternoon  I  received  a  letter  from 
Hotta,  Prince  of  Bitchiu,  Minister  of  Foreign 
Affairs,  informing  me  that  he  had  received  my 
letter  and  communicated  its  contents  to  his  master 
the  Tai-kun,  and  that  his  Majesty  had  fixed  on 
Monday  next,  the  7th  instant,  for  my  public  audi- 
ence. 

The  Prince  of  Shinano  is  considered  as  my  host 
(I  do  not  know  but  keeper  would  be  a  more 
correct  term),  and  he  visits  me  daily.  To-day  he 
informs    me  that  the  great  Council  of  State  has 


AUDIENCE  OF  THE  SHOGUN.  215 

heretofore  consisted  of  five  members,  but  since  it 
had  been  determined  to  receive  me  at  Yedo,  the 
number  had  been  increased  to  six,  and  that  the 
Prince  of  Bitchiu,  in  addition  to  his  position  of 
first  member  of  the  Council,  is  now  created  "  Min- 
ister of  Foreign  Affairs,"  and  that  all  correspon- 
dence with  foreign  envoys  will  be  conducted  in  his 
name. 

Thursday,  December  3,  1857.  Wrote  to  the 
Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  inclosing  copy  and 
translation  of  the  President's  letter  to  the  Tai-kun. 
I  also  wrote  him  that  I  would  pay  him  a  visit  of 
ceremony  whenever  he  should  be  ready  to  receive 
me.  In  the  evening  I  received  an  answer  to  my 
letter,  and  he  wrote  that  he  would  be  happy  to 
receive  my  visit  to-morrow.  Had  my  usual  visit 
from  Shinano  no  Kami,  and  a  good  deal  of  conver- 
sation ensued.  He  was  very  anxious  to  have  me 
make  promises  not  to  visit  about  the  city,  saying 
that  Yedo  contained  a  great  many  bad  people,  who 
might  insult  and  maltreat  me,1  and  thus  the  gov- 
ernment of  Japan  would  be  plunged  into  serious 
difficulties  with  that  of  the  United  States. 

I  replied  that  I  could  not  make  any  promises 
that   would    circumscribe    my    undoubted    rights 

1  The  Japanese  officer  had  stronger  grounds  for  this  supposi- 
tion than  Mr.  Harris  imagined.  "  At  this  time,  two  young  men 
conspired  against  his  [Mr.  Harris's]  life,  but  they  were  arrested 
and  shortly  after  died  in  prison."  Inazo  Nitobe's  United  States 
and  Japan,  p.  65.     See  later  on  in  the  Diary. 


216  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

under  the  laws  of  nations  ;  that  I  had  no  fears  for 
my  personal  safety,  as  I  had  gone  boldly  and  freely 
through  many  cities  of  the  East  where  the  popula- 
tion was  of  a  much  worse  character  than  that  of 
Yedo,  and  where  I  had  no  official  character  to  pro- 
tect me ;  that  they  must  and  might  rely  on  my  age 
and  discretion  that  I  should  not  do  anything  to 
cause  them  any  embarrassment ;  but  I  must  be  left 
free  to  act  in  all  respects  according  to  the  dic- 
tates of  that  discretion,  and  that  I  could  not  give 
them  any  pledge  or  promise  of  any  kind  that  might 
afterwards  be  used  by  them  to  limit  me  in  my  free- 
dom of  action,  etc. 

I  also  told  him  that  exercise  in  the  open  air 
was  the  daily  practice  of  all  Western  people, 
and  was  necessary  to  the  preservation  of  health ; 
that  I  wished  the  government  to  point  out  some 
place,  either  in  the  wide  streets  or  in  a  ba-ba,1 
where  Mr.  Heusken  and  I  could  take  the  requisite 
exercise. 

This  appeared  to  cause  much  trouble,  but  it  was 
so  just  and  reasonable  that  he  could  not  urge  any- 
thing against  my  demand,  except  his  fears  of  the 
populace.  I  told  him  he  might  remember  that 
when  I  demanded  the  removal  of  the  guards  from 
my  residence  at  Shimoda  he  had  told  me  that  the 
people  of  Shimoda  were  the  worst  in  Japan,  and 
that  the  presence  of  the  Japanese  officers  at  my 

l  Horse-course,  or  place  of  military  exercises. 


AUDIENCE  OF  THE  SHOGUN.  217 

house  was  absolutely  indispensable  to  protect  me 
from  outrage  by  day  and  robbery  at  night ;  that 
notwithstanding  his  remonstrances  on  that  occasion, 
I  had  insisted,  and  the  guards  were  removed  full 
eleven  months  ago,  and  that  he  well  knew  that 
nothing  unpleasant  had  occurred  since ;  that  I  had 
no  doubt  his  fears  about  the  conduct  of  the  good 
people  of  Yedo  were  equally  unfounded.  Poor 
Shinano  looked  confused  when  I  referred  to  the 
Shimoda  affair,  and  in  his  reply  said  that  what  he 
then  told  me  was  by  express  orders  of  the  govern- 
ment, but  that  I  might  rely  on  the  truth  of  what 
he  now  stated  about  the  people  of  Yedo.  He  con- 
cluded by  saying  he  would  report  my  wishes  to 
the  government,  and  hoped  to  have  the  matter 
arranged  to  my  satisfaction. 
l/  Friday,  December  4,  1857.  I  start  on  my  visit 
to  the  Prime  Minister  at  ten  a.  m.,  the  Prince  of 
Shinano  acting  as  my  escort.  My  retinue  is  com- 
posed in  the  same  manner  as  it  was  on  my  entry 
into  Yedo,  excepting  my  luggage,  cook,  etc.,  etc. 

I  went  southwardly  over  the  same  road  that 
I  came  on  my  entry  for  about  one  mile,  when  we 
crossed  the  moat  on  a  new  bridge  about  one  hun- 
dred feet  long,  and  passed  through  a  gate  into 
a  square  of  some  fifty  or  sixty  feet  formed  by  stone 
walls  about  twenty-five  feet  high ;  a  gate  in  the  wall 
running  at  right  angles  with  the  gate  of  entrance 
gave  us  exit  from  the  quadrangle,  and  we  entered 


218  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

into  the  third  inclosure  of  the  castle  by  a  broad 
street,  having  the  outer  wall  on  our  left  and  a  line 
of  houses  on  our  right.  After  a  short  time  we 
turned  to  our  right,  or  westward,  still  proceeding 
through  fine  streets  lined  with  the  houses  of  the 
daimios  and  kami,  etc. 

These  houses  were  all  built  of  wood,  roofed  with 
tiles.  The  streets  were  unpaved  and  scrupulously 
clean.  The  street-keepers  were  the  retainers  of 
the  princes,  and  each  wore  the  arms  of  his  master. 
The  crowd  was  not  so  great  as  in  passing  through 
the  city ;  still,  vast  numbers  were  collected,  espe- 
cially when  we  came  to  the  frequent  open  spaces 
or  squares.  The  observers  were  the  servants  and 
retainers  of  the  nobles,  and  gave  a  lively  idea  of 
the  magnitude  of  the  households  of  those  person- 
ages. The  buildings  on  the  street  have  projecting 
windows  like  the  houses  at  Cairo  and  Alexandria. 

Through  the  grass  screens  to  these  openings  we 
saw  plenty  of  fair  faces,  and  it  would  appear  that 
Mother  Eve's  failing  is  fully  inherited  by  her 
daughters  in  Yedo.  Every  possible  part  of  the 
window,  from  its  sill  to  the  top,  was  plastered  with 
a  female  face.  As  no  part  of  their  dresses  could 
be  seen,  I  am  unable  to  describe  them. 

We  passed  by  a  causeway  and  short  bridge  over 
a  canal ;  here  the  water  had  a  fall  of  about  six 
feet,  and  appears  to  prove  that  the  city  is  built  on 
ground  that  rises  gradually  from  the  shore  of  the 


AUDIENCE  OF  THE  SHOGUN.  219 

bay.  We  reached  the  house  of  Hotta  Bitchiu  no 
Kami,  or  Hotta,  Prince  of  Bitchiu.  All  the  nori- 
mono,  except  mine,  were  stopped  at  the  outer  gate ; 
my  bearers  mended  their  pace  at  some  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  from  the  gate,  and  by  the  time  they 
reached  it  they  were  at  a  full  trot,  dashed  through 
the  gate,  across  the  court,  and  plumped  me  down 
close  to  the  edge  of  some  clean  mats  that  had  been 
placed  there  for  my  reception. 

On  getting  out  of  my  norimono,  my  "shoe 
bearer"  gave  me  a  new  pair  of  unsoiled  patent 
leather  shoes,  which  I  put  on.  The  Japanese  of 
all  ranks  enter  a  house  in  their  stockings  alone, 
leaving  their  straw  sandals  outside  ;  and  there  is  a 
good  reason  for  this,  for,  as  I  have  before  noted, 
the  mat  serves  as  chair,  couch,  table,  and  bed. 
In  the  vestibule,  some  thirty  persons  dressed  in 
kami-shimos  were  seated  in  Japanese  fashion,  and 
saluted  me  by  bringing  the  forehead  down  to  the 
mat.  I  passed  to  the  right,  and  soon  met  the 
Commissioners  of  my  voyage,  who  saluted  me, 
and,  through  Toke,  Prince  of  Tamba,  inquired 
after  my  health,  etc.,  etc.  I  was  now  conducted 
into  a  room  where  I  found  chairs,  made  after  our 
pattern,  for  Mr.  Heusken  and  myself,  with  comfort- 
able braziers  filled  with  burning  charcoal.  In  a 
few  moments  two  tables  were  brought  in,  on  which 
were  placed  pipes,  tobacco,  and  fire.  Soon  after- 
ward the  Japanese  great  tea-luxury  was  served  to 


220  MB.  HABBI&S  JOURNAL. 

me.  It  is  made  of  very  fine  tea  reduced  to  a 
powder,  on  which  boiling  water  is  poured,1  and 
forms  what  may  be  called  a  tea  gruel.  The  taste 
was  much  better  than  the  looks. 

As  soon  as  I  had  drunk  my  tea  I  was  asked  if  I 
would  then  see  the  Minister,  and  on  my  replying 
in  the  affirmative,  the  sliding  doors  were  opened, 
and  here  I  met  the  Minister.  We  saluted  each 
other  in  silence,  and  he  then  led  the  way  into  a 
fourth  room,  where  I  found  two  chairs  on  one  side, 
and  ten  black  lacquered  stools  on  the  other;  we 
again  saluted  each  other,  when  the  Minister  cour- 
teously motioned  to  me  to  be  seated,  and,  waiting 
until  I  was  seated,  he  sat  down  himself.  The  Com- 
missioners of  my  voyage  now  entered  the  room  and 
again  saluted  me,  after  which  they  also  took  their 
seats  on  the  black  stools. 

The  Minister  courteously  inquired  about  my 
health,  and  after  my  reply  and  the  requisite  counter- 
inquiry,  he  expressed  much  admiration  at  the  long 
voyage  I  had  made  through  so  many  different 
countries,  for  he  perfectly  understood  what  is  called 
the  overland  route  to  India.  I  made  the  proper 
answer,  adding  that  I  considered  myself  as  a  fortu- 
nate person,  as  I  was  the  first  foreigner  who  had 
ever  visited  the  great  city  of  Yedo  in  a  diplomatic 
capacity. 

Tables  were  now  brought  in  by  servants,  who 
1  Hence  the  name  cha  no  yu,  tea  of  hot  water. 


AUDIENCE  OF  THE  SHOGUN.  221 

carried  them  elevated  as  high  as  possible,  marching 
with  a  stately  step  and  with  a  measured  cadence. 
Then  followed  pipes  and  tobacco,  tea,  and  trays 
of  refreshments.  The  trays  of  the  Minister  and 
myself  were  of  the  same  height,  both  being  some 
inches  higher  than  those  served  to  the  others. 
The  Minister  courteously  urged  me  to  partake  of 
his  refreshments,  and  begged  me  to  excuse  his  not 
smoking,  as  he  never  used  tobacco.  He  afterwards 
said  he  did  not  offer  me  sake,  as  he  understood 
I  did  not  drink  wine  or  sake  when  I  could  avoid 
it.  After  some  little  conversation,  I  presented 
him  with  a  copy  of  my  intended  address  to  the 
Tai-kun  on  the  day  of  my  audience,  adding  that 
I  had  made  it  very  short  so  that  no  unnecessary 
topics  should  be  introduced.  The  Minister  re- 
quested leave  to  withdraw  for  a  short  time,  in 
order  to  have  the  paper  translated.  He  accordingly 
left  me  with  Shinano  no  Kami,  the  Commission- 
ers of  my  voyage  going  with  the  Minister.  The 
interior  of  this  house  exactly  corresponds  with  the 
one  I  occupy. 

The  agitation  of  the  Japanese  interpreter  is  be- 
yond anything  I  ever  saw;  he  trembled  all  over 
his  body  as  though  he  had  an  ague  fit,  while  large 
drops  of  perspiration  stood  like  beads  on  his  fore- 
head. 

My  seat  was  placed  nearest  the  toko,  and  I  was 
warmed  by  a  lacquer  and  copper  brazier.    In  place 


222  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

of  ashes,  the  brazier  contained  pulverized  spar  of 
a  snowy  whiteness,  neatly  formed  into  a  representa- 
tion of  the  celebrated  Fuji-Yama,  the  top  being 
opened  like  the  crater  of  a  volcano  to  admit  the 
coals. 

*  In  about  half  an  hour  the  Minister  returned  and 
told  me  that  my  address  was  quite  satisfactory,  and 
at  the  same  time  he  handed  me  the  Tai-kun's 
reply,  showing  clearly  that  his  Majesty  would  utter 
exactly  what  the  Council  should  dictate !  The 
Minister  informed  me  that,  as  the  interpreters 
could  not  be  admitted  into  the  Imperial  presence, 
he  had  furnished  me  with  a  copy  of  the  reply ;  so 
that  by  having  it  translated,  the  presence  of  the 
interpreter  would  not  be  required. 

My  business  being  ended,  I  rose,  and  we  again 
bowed,  the  Minister  following  me  to  the  same  spot 
where  we  first  met,  where  wc  again  bowed ;  beyond 
that  I  found  my  Commissioners,  who  again  saluted 
me.  The  two  who  had  made  the  treaty  with  Com- 
modore Perry  inquired  vely  kindly  after  him,  and 
requested  me  to  inform  him  of  the  fact  whenever  I 
might  write  to  him.  In  the  vestibule  I  found  the 
same  persons  seated,  who  salaamed  to  me  as  on  my 
entry,  and  from  thence  I  once  more  entered  my 
norimono. 

The  Minister  is  about  thirty-five  years  old,  short 
in  stature,  of  a  pleasant  and  intelligent  counte- 
nance, and  his  voice  is  low  and  rather  musical. 


AUDIENCE  OF  THE  SHOGUN.  223 

Sunday,  December  6,  1857.  This  is  the  second 
Sunday  in  Advent ;  assisted  by  Mr.  Heusken,  I 
read  the  full  service  in  an  audible  voice,  and  with 
the  paper  doors  of  the  house  here  our  voices  could 
be  heard  in  every  part  of  the  building. 

This  was  beyond  doubt  the  first  time  that  the 
English  version  of  the  Bible  was  ever  read,  or  the 
American  Protestant  Episcopal  service  ever  re- 
peated in  this  city.  What  a  host  of  thoughts  rush 
upon  me  as  I  reflect  on  this  event.  Two  hundred 
and  thirty  years  ago,  a  law  was  promulgated  in 
Japan  inflicting  death  on  any  one  who  should  use 
any  of  the  rites  of  the  Christian  religion  in  Japan. 
That  law  is  still  unrepealed,  and  yet  here  have  I 
boldly  and  openly  done  the  very  acts  that  the 
Japanese  law  punishes  so  severely ! 

What  is  my  protection  ?  The  American  name 
alone.  That  name,  so  powerful  and  potent  now, 
cannot  be  said  to  have  had  an  existence  then,  for 
in  all  the  wide  lands  that  now  form  the  United 
States  there  were  not  a*  that  time  five  thousand 
men  of  Anglo-Saxon  origin. 

The  first  blow  is  now  struck  against  the  cruel 
persecution  of  Christianity  by  the  Japanese,  and, 
by  the  blessing  of  God,  if  I  succeed  in  establishing 
negotiations  at  this  time  with  the  Japanese,  I  mean 
to  boldly  demand  for  the  Americans  the  free  exer- 
cise of  their  religion  in  Japan,  with  the  right  to 
build  churches,  and  I  will  also  demand  the  aboli- 


224  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

tion  of  the  custom  of  trampling  on  the  cross  or 
crucifix,  which  the  Dutch  have  basely :  witnessed 
for  two  hundred  and  thirty  years  without  a  word  of 
remonstrance.  This  custom  has  been  confined  to 
Nagasaki;  had  it  been  attempted  at  Shimoda,  I 
should  have  remonstrated  in  a  manner  that  would 
have  compelled  the  Japanese  to  listen  to  me.  I 
shall  be  both  proud  and  happy  if  I  can  be  the 
humble  means  of  once  more  opening  Japan  to  the 
blessed  rule  of  Christianity. 

My  Bible  and  Prayer-Book  are  priceless  memen- 
tos of  this  event,  and  when,  after  many  or  few 
years,  Japan  shall  be  once  more  opened  to  Chris- 
tianity, the  events  of  this  day  at  Yedo  will  ever  be 
of  interest. 

Monday,  December  7,  1857.  I  started  for  my 
audience  about  ten  o'clock  with  the  same  escort 
as  on  my  visit  to  the  Minister,  but  my  guards  all 
wore  kami-shimos  and  breeches  which  only  covered 
half  the  thigh,  leaving  all  the  rest  of  the  leg  bare. 
My  dress  was  a  coat  embroidered  with  gold  after 

1  This  custom  of  trampling  (fumi)  on  a  ye*  (engraved  copper 
plate  with  representation  of  the  crucifix)  was  abolished  by  the 
Japanese  government  in  1853,  the  year  before  Perry's  second 
arrival.  As  the  Kindai  Geppio  states,  "  From  this  year,  the  prac- 
tice of  fumi-ye*  at  Nagasaki  was  abolished."  Most  of  the  Ameri- 
can sailors  shipwrecked  on  the  Japan  coasts,  and  cared  for  by  the 
government  until  shipped  away,  seem  to  have  had  no  compunc- 
tions about  treading  on  the  copper  plate,  thereby  proving  they 
were  not  Portuguese.     See  Hildreth's  Japan,  p.  503. 


AUDIENCE  OF  THE  SHOGUN.  225 

the  pattern  furnished  by  the  State  Department, 
blue  pantaloons  with  a  broad  gold  band  running 
down  each  leg,  cocked  hat  with  gold  tassels,  and  a 
pearl-handled  dress-sword. 

Mr.  Heusken's  dress  was  the  undress  navy  uni- 
form, regulation  sword,  and  cocked  hat.  Our 
route  was  by  the  same  street  that  I  have  mentioned 
on  my  visit  to  the  Minister,  but  we  crossed  the 
moat  by  a  bridge  that  was  about  half  a  mile  from 
my  house ;  the  gateway  with  the  quadrangular 
building  was  precisely  like  those  described  in  my 
journal  of  the  4th  instant.  So  also  the  appearance 
of  the  streets,  buildings,  people,  etc.,  was  exactly 
the  same.  On  arriving  at  the  second  moat,  all 
were  required  to  leave  their  norimonos  except  the 
Prince  of  Shinano  and  myself.  We  crossed  the 
bridge,  passed  the  gate  and  quadrangle,  and  pur- 
sued our  course,  and  everything  was  so  exactly  like 
what  I  then  saw  that  nothing  but  the  assurance  of 
Shinano  could  convince  me  that  I  was  in  a  differ- 
ent quarter. 

When  we  arrived  within  about  three  hundred 
yards  of  the  last  bridge  Shinano  also  left  his  nori- 
mono ;  and  our  horses,  his  spears,  etc.,  etc.,  with  the 
ordinary  attendants,  all  remained.  I  was  carried 
up  to  the  bridge  itself ;  and,  as  they  say,  further 
than  a  Japanese  was  ever  carried  before,  and  here 
I  dismounted,  giving  the  President's  letter,  which 
I  had  brought  in  my  norimono,  to  Mr.  Heusken  to 


226  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

carry.  "We  crossed  this  bridge,  through  the  same 
quadrangle  as  before,  and  at  some  one  hundred 
and  fifty  or  two*  hundred  yards  from  the  gate 
I  entered  the  audience  hall.  Before  entering,  how- 
ever, I  put  on  the  new  shoes  I  had  worn  on  my 
visit  to  the  Minister,  and  the  Japanese  did  not 
even  ask  me  to  go  in  my  stocking-feet. 

As  I  entered  the  vestibule  I  was  met  by  two 
officers  of  the  household.  We  stopped,  faced  each 
other,  and  then  bowed;  they  then  led  me  along 
a  hall  to  a  room  where,  on  entering,  I  found  the 
two  chairs  and  a  comfortable  brazier.  I  should 
here  note  that  tobacco  is  not  served  among  the 
refreshments  of  the  palace.  I  again  drank  the 
"  tea  gruel." 

The  breeches  are  the  great  feature  of  the  dress  ; 
they  are  made  of  yellow  silk,  and  the  legs  are  some 
six  to* seven  feet  long!  Consequently,  when  the 
wearer  walks,  they  stream  out  behind  him,  and 
give  him  the  appearance  of  walking  on  his  knees, 
an  illusion  which  is  helped  out  by  the  short  stature 
of  the  Japanese  and  the  great  width,  over  the 
shoulders,  of  their  kami-shimos. 

The  cap  is  also  a  great  curiosity,  and  defies  de- 
scription; it  is  made  of  a  black  varnished  mate- 
rial, and  looks  like  a  Scotch  Kilmarnock  cap, 
which  has  been  opened  only  some  three  inches 
wide,  and  is  fantastically  perched  on  the  very  apex 
of  the  head ;  the  front  comes  just  to  the  top  edge 


AUDIENCE  OF  THE  SHOGUN.  227 

of  the  forehead,  but  the  back  projects  some  dis- 
tance behind  the  head.  This  extraordinary  affair 
is  kept  in  place  by  a  light-colored  silk  cord  which, 
passing  over  the  top  of  the  "  Coronet,"  passes  down 
over  the  temples  and  is  tied  under  the  chin.  A 
lashing  runs  horizontally  across  the  forehead,  and 
being  attached  to  the  perpendicular  cord,  passes 
behind  the  head,  where  it  is  tied. 

My  friend  Shinano  was  very  anxious  to  have  me 
enter  the  audience  chamber  and  rehearse  my  part. 
This  I  declined  as  gently  as  I  could,  telling  him 
that  the  general  customs  of  all  courts  were  so  sim- 
ilar that  I  had  no  fear  of  making  any  mistakes, 
particularly  as  he  had  kindly  explained  their  part 
of  the  ceremony,  while  my  part  was  to  be  done 
after  our  Western  fashion.  I  really  believe  he  was 
anxious  that  I  should  perform  my  part  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  make  a  favorable  impression  on 
those  who  would  see  me  for  the  first  time.  I  dis- 
covered also  that  I  had  purposely  been  brought 
to  the  palace  a  good  hour  before  the  time,  so  that 
he  might  get  through  his  rehearsal  before  the  time 
for  my  actual  audience.  Finding  I  declined  the 
rehearsal,  I  was  again  taken  to  the  room  that 
I  first  entered,  which  was  comfortably  warm  and 
had  chairs  to  sit  on.     Tea  was  again  served  to  me. 

At  last  I  was  informed  that  the  time  had  ar- 
rived for  my  audience,  and  I  passed  down  by  the 
poor  daimios,  who  were  still  seated  like  so  many 


228  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

statues  in  the  same  place ;  but  when  I  had  got  as 
far  as  their  front  rank,  I  passed  in  front  of  their 
line  and  halted  on  their  right  flank,  towards  which 
I  faced.  Shinano  here  threw  himself  on  his  hands 
and  knees.  I  stood  behind  him,  and  Mr.  Heusken 
was  just  behind  me. 

The  audience  chamber  faced  in  the  same  manner 
as  the  room  in  which  the  great  audience  was  seated, 
but  separated  from  it  by  the  usual  sliding  doors  ; 
so  that  although  they  could  see  me  pass  and  hear 
all  that  was  said  at  the  audience,  they  could  not 
see  into  the  chamber.  At  length,  on  a  signal  being 
made,  the  Prince  of  Shinano  began  to  crawl  along 
on  his  hands  and  knees,  and  when  I  half  turned 
to  the  right  and  entered  the  audience  chamber, 
a  chamberlain  called  out  in  a  loud  voice  "  Embas- 
sador Merican ! "  1  halted  about  six  feet  from 
the  door  and  bowed,  then  proceeded  nearly  to 
the  middle  of  the  room,  where  I  again  halted  and 
bowed.  Again  proceeding,  I  stopped  about  ten 
feet  from  the  end  of  the  room,  exactly  opposite  to 
the  Prince  of  Bitchiu  on  my  right  hand,  where  he 
and  the  other  five  members  of  the  Great  Council 
were  prostrate  on  their  faces.  On  my  left  hand 
were  three  brothers  of  the  Tai-kun  prostrated  in 
the  same  manner,  and  all  of  them  being  nearly 
"  end  on "  towards  me.  After  a  pause  of  a  few 
seconds  I  addressed  the  Tai-kun  as  follows :  — 

"  May  it   please  your    Majesty :    In  presenting 


AUDIENCE  OF  THE  SHOGUN.  229 

my  letters  of  credence  from  the  President  of  the 
United  States,  I  am  directed  to  express  to  your 
Majesty  the  sincere  wishes  of  the  President  for 
your  health  and  happiness,  and  for  the  prosperity 
of  your  dominions.  I  consider  it  a  great  honor 
that  I  have  been  selected  to  fill  the  high  and  impor- 
tant place  of  Plenipotentiary  of  the  United  States 
at  the  court  of  your  Majesty,  and  as  my  earnest 
wishes  are  to  unite  the  two  countries  more  closely 
m  the  ties  of  enduring  friendship,  my  constant 
exertions  shall  be  directed  to  the  attainment  of  that 
happy  end." 

Here  I  stopped  and  bowed. 

After  a  short  silence  the  Tai-kun  began  to  jerk 
his  head  backward  over  his  left  shoulder,  at  the 
same  time  stamping  with  his  right  foot.  This  was 
repeated  three  or  four  times.  After  this,  he  spoke 
audibly  and  in  a  pleasant  and  firm  voice  what  was 
interpreted  as  follows :  — 

"  Pleased  with  the  letter  sent  with  the  Ambas- 
sador from  a  far  distant  country,  and  likewise 
pleased  with  his  discourse.  Intercourse  shall  be 
continued  forever."  1 

Monday,2  December  7,  1857.  Mr.  Heusken, 
who  had  been  standing  at  the  door  of  the  audience 
chamber,  now  advanced  with  the  President's  letter, 
bowing  three  times.     As  he  approached,  the  Min- 

1  Here  ends  the  record  in  "  Journal  No.  4." 

2  Here  begins  the  record  in  "  Journal  No.  5." 


230  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

ister  for  Foreign  Affairs  rose  to  his  feet  and  stood 
by  me.  I  removed  the  silk  cover  over  the  box, 
opened  it,  and  also  raised  the  cover  of  the  letter  so 
that  the  Minister  could  see  the  writing.  I  then 
closed  the  box,  replaced  the  silk  covering  (made  of 
red  and  white  stripes,  six  and  seven),  and  handed 
the  same  to  the  Minister,  who  received  it  with  both 
hands,  and  placed  it  on  a  handsome  lacquered 
stand  which  was  placed  a  little  above  him.  He 
then  lay  down  again,  and  I  turned  towards  the 
Tai-kun,  who  gave  me  to  understand  my  audience 
was  at  an  end  by  making  me  a  courteous  bow. 
I  bowed,  retreated  backward,  halted,  bowed,  again 
retreated,  again  halted  and  bowed  again,  and  for 
the  last  time. 

So  ended  my  audience,  when  I  was  reconducted 
to  my  original  room,  and  served  with  more  tea 
gruel.  A  good  deal  of  negotiation  had  been  used 
by  the  Japanese  to  get  me  to  eat  a  dinner  at  the 
palace,  alone,  or  with  Mr.  Heusken  only.  This 
I  declined  doing.  I  offered  to  partake  of  it,  pro- 
vided one  of  the  royal  family  or  the  Prime  Minis- 
ter would  eat  with  me.  I  was  told  that  their  cus- 
toms forbade  either  from  doing  so.  I  replied  that 
the  customs  of  my  country  forbade  any  one  to  eat 
in  a  house  where  the  host,  or  his  representative, 
did  not  sit  down  to  table  with  him.  At  last  the 
matter  was  arranged  by  ordering  the  dinner  to  be 
sent  to  my  lodgings. 


AUDIENCE  OF  THE  SHOGUN.  231 

I  had  not  been  lon£  in  the  room  last  mentioned 
before  I  was  requested  to  meet  the  Council  of 
State.  I  found  them  in  the  place  where  the  dai- 
mios  had  been  seated,  but  who  had  now  left  the 
room.  Hotta,  Prince  of  Bitchiu,  spoke,  and  in  the 
name  of  the  Council  congratulated  me  on  my  arri- 
val and  audience,  and  then  said  his  Majesty  had 
ordered  a  present  to  be  offered  to  me,  which  was 
then  in  the  room,  at  the  same  time  pointing  to  three 
large  trays  each  holding  five  silk  kabiyas  thickly 
wadded  with  silk  wadding.  I  thanked  the  Coun- 
cil for  their  kind  inquiries,  and  desired  them  to 
return  my  thanks  to  his  Majesty  for  his  present. 

After  this,  bows  were  exchanged  and  I  turned 
and  left  the  room,  going  towards  the  vestibule, 
but  a  few  yards  from  it  I  halted  and  turned,  when 
the  Council  of  State  again  formed  line,  and  took 
leave  of  me  by  a  deep  bow.  At  the  vestibule, 
I  met  the  two  officers  who  had  first  received  me, 
and  I  exchanged  bows  with  them,  and  then  left 
the  palace  and  proceeded  to  my  norimono,  and 
returned  home  by  the  same  route  I  had  come  by. 

The  Tai-kun  was  seated  in  a  chair  placed  on 
a  platform  raised  about  two  feet  from  the  floor, 
and  from  the  ceiling  in  front  of  him  a  grass  cur- 
tain was  hung  ;  when  unrolled,  it  would  reach  the 
floor,  but  it  was  now  rolled  up,  and  was  kept  in  its 
place  by  large  silk  cords  with  heavy  tassels.  By 
an  error  in  their  calculation,  the  curtain  was  not 


232  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

rolled  up  high  enough  to  enable  me  to  see  his  head- 
dress, as  the  roll  formed  by  the  curtain  cut  through 
the  centre  of  his  forehead,  so  that  I  cannot  fully 
describe  his  "crown,"  as  the  Japanese  called  it. 
I  was  afterwards  told  that  this  mistake  arose  from 
their  not  making  a  proper  allowance  for  my  height, 
as  had  my  eyes  been  three  inches  lower  I  could 
have  seen  the  whole  of  his  head-dress.  This  may 
or  may  not  be  so.  The  dress  of  the  Tai-kun  was 
made  of  silk,  and  the  material  had  some  little  gold 
wove  in  with  it,  but  it  was  as  distant  from  any- 
thing like  regal  spendor  as  could  be  conceived ;  no 
rich  jewels,  no  elaborate  gold  ornaments  ;  no  dia- 
mond-hilted  weapon  appeared ;  and  I  can  safely 
say  that  my  dress  was  far  more  costly  than  his. 
The  Japanese  told  me  his  crown  is  a  black  lac- 
quered cap,  of  an  inverted  bell  shape.  The  dress 
of  the  Tai-kun  was  differently  shaped  from  those 
of  his  courtiers,  and  appeared  like  loose  robes, 
while  his  breeches  were  of  a  reasonable  length. 
The  material  was  far  inferior  to  the  glorious  "  Kin- 
cabs  "  of  the  Benares  looms. 

I  did  not  see  any  gilding  in  any  part,  and  all 
the  wooden  columns  were  unpainted.  Not  an 
article  of  any  kind  appeared  in  any  of  the  rooms, 
except  the  braziers,  and  the  chairs  and  tables 
brought  for  my  use. 

At  the  right  side  of  the  last  gate  I  entered,  a 
square  pagoda  or  tower  of  three  stories  was  erected. 


AUDIENCE  OF  THE  SHOGUN.  233 

There  was  the  same  absence  of  military  display  as 
on  my  visit  to  the  Minister. 

Soon  after  reaching  my  quarters  the  dinner  fol- 
lowed. It  was  very  handsome  according  to  Japan- 
ese rules,  and  the  centre-pieces  were  beautifully 
got  up.  Miniature  fir-trees,  the  tortoise  and  stork, 
emblems  of  longevity,  with  tokens  of  welcome  and 
respect,  were  prominently  exhibited. 

I  merely  looked  at  it,  but  was  unable  to  eat  a 
morsel,  as  I  was  seriously  ill.  I  had  taken  a  vio- 
lent cold;  had  much  inflammation  of  the  lungs, 
and  now  a  violent  ague  fit  attacked  me.  I  was 
glad  to  send  for  the  doctor *  of  the  Prince  of  Shi- 
nano,  —  a  very  intelligent  man,  that  I  had  fre- 
quently seen  at  Shimoda.  Finding  I  had  already 
taken  cathartic  medicine,  he  prescribed  tisanes,  put 
in  hot  water,  to  drink  freely  of  hot  couju  or  rice 
gruel,  and  to  put  on  as  many  clothes  as  I  could 
pile  on  my  bed,  so  as  to  promote  perspiration. 

Tuesday,  December  8,  1857.  Still  quite  ill, 
though  better  than  yesterday.  Write  to  the  Minis- 
ter for  Foreign  Affairs  that  I  have  some  important 
communications  to  make  which  deeply  concern  the 
interests  of  Japan,  which  I  will  communicate  to 
him,  or  to  the  whole  Council  of  State. 

I  omitted  to  state  yesterday  that  the  dinner  sent 

1  This  gentleman,  and  the  other  physicians  who  later  at  Shi- 
moda attended  Mr.  Harris,  had  been  trained  by  the  Dutch  sur- 
geon at  D^shima,  Nagasaki. 


234  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

to  me  was  placed  on  some  forty  to  fifty  trays  made 
of  unpainted  wood.1  These  trays  were  eleven  inches 
high  for  me,  and  about  five  inches  for  Mr.  Heus- 
ken.  The  dinner  was  served  in  the  usual  lacquered 
cups. 

I  was  told  that  the  trays  and  other  utensils, 
after  having  been  used  by  me,  could  never  be  used 
by  any  other  person,  and  therefore  they  were  made 
of  unvarnished  wood ;  this  being  the  custom  of 
Japan  when  presenting  food  to  persons  of  exalted 
rank,  etc.,  etc. 

The  fan  used  at  the  audience  differs  from  that 
used  on  ordinary  occasions ;  it  does  not  open  and 
fold  like  ordinary  fans,  but  is  permanently  fixed, 
and  is  about  three  inches  across  the  top.  The 
handle  also  is  longer  than  that  of  the  ordinary  fan. 

Gave  the  letter  for  the  Minister  to  the  Prince  of 
Shinano,  who  came  to  me  this*  afternoon  after  his 
visit  to  the  Castle.  He  told  me  that  all  who  were 
present  at  the  audience  yesterday  were  amazed  at 
my  "  greatness  of  soul,"  and  at  my  bearing  in 
presence  of  the  mighty  ruler  of  Japan ;  they  had 
looked  to  see  me  "tremble  and  quake,"  and  to 
speak  in  a  faltering  voice.  He  added  that  the 
Americans  were  a  very  different  people  from  the 

1  So  also  chop-sticks  of  unpainted  wood  are  furnished  at  din- 
ners, so  that  after  use  they  may  he  hroken  up  and  destroyed,  — a 
method  and  process  that  is  well  suited  to  fastidious  folk  who  are 
disturbed  at  unskillfully  washed  knives  and  forks. 


AUDIENCE  OF  THE  SHOGUN.  235 

Dutch.  I  insert  this  because  he  told  it  to  me,  and 
I  let  it  pass  for  what  it  is  worth,  but  I  am  hugely 
inclined  to  think  that  there  is  some  admixture  of 
"  soft  sawder." 

Thursday,  December  10,  1857.  We  had  a  shock 
of  earthquake  yesterday  at  nine  A.  M.,  quite  light. 
Better  to-day.  Show  the  presents  I  have  brought 
for  the  Tai-kun  ;  they  consist  of  the  following  arti- 
cles :  — 

Twelve  quarts  of  champagne,  twenty-four  pints 
of  champagne,  twelve  bottles  sherry,  twelve  bottles 
of  assorted  liquors,  one  rich  astral  lamp,  three  rich 
cut  globes,  with  extra  chimneys,  etc.,  etc.  Two 
very  rich  cut  glass  decanters,  one  telescope,  one 
barometer  aneroid,  two  volumes  "  Museum  of  Nat- 
ural History  "  with  one  thousand  plates,  five  Bra- 
mah's  patent  locks.  Trays  to  place  these  articles 
on  must  be  made  before  they  can  be  presented. 

The  Prince  of  Shinano  tells  me  that  the  person 
who  gave  maps  of  Japan  to  Yon  Siebold  did  not 
perform  the  hara-kiri,1  but  was  crucified,  and  that 
a  number  of  other  persons  lost  their  lives  by  their 
conduct  on  that  occasion. 

Crucifixion  is  performed  as  follows  :  The  crim- 
inal is  tied  to  a  cross,  with  his  arms  and  legs 
stretched  apart  as  wide  as  possible ;  then  a  spear  is 

1  T.  J.  p.  387.  In  1826  P.  F.  von  Siebold  accompanied  the 
Dutch  to  Yedo,  where,  after  his  companions  left,  he  remained 
until  January  18,  1830,  most  of  the  time  in  prison. 


236  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

thrust  through  the  body,  entering  just  under  the 
bottom  of  the  shoulder  blade  on  the  left  side,  and 
coming  out  on  the  right  side,  just  by  the  arm-pit. 
Another  spear  is  then  thrust  through,  from  the 
right  to  the  left  side,  in  the  same  manner.  The 
executioner  endeavors  to  avoid  the  heart  in  this 
operation.  The  spears  are  thrust  through  in  this 
manner  until  the  criminal  expires,  but  his  suffer- 
ings are  prolonged  as  much  as  possible.  Shinano 
told  me  that  a  few  years  ago  a  very  strong  man 
lived  until  the  eleventh  spear  had  been  thrust 
through  him. 

No  man  is  put  to  death  in  Japan  until  he  has 
confessed  his  guilt.  After  conviction,  if  he  asserts 
his  innocence,  he  is  put  to  the  torture  until  he 
confesses,  or  dies,  or  faints.  In  the  last  case  he  is 
removed  to  his  prison  and  brought  to  the  question 
on  another  day,  and  this  continues  until  he  either 
confesses  his  guilt  or  dies  under  the  torture.1  Had 
a  long  argument  on  the  injustice  of  the  torture  as 
a  means  of  eliciting  truth. 

1  This  is  still  the  Chinese  procedure,  as  illustrated  in  the  case 
of  the  two  Japanese  students  delivered  up  to  the  Chinese  author- 
ities by  the  American  consul  at  Shanghai  by  order  of  the  Secre- 
tary of  State.  See  Harper's  Weekly  for  December  1,  1894.  Tor- 
ture was  abolished  in  Japan  on  the  adoption  of  the  new  law  codes 
in  1877. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

PRELIMINARIES   TO   THE  TREATY-MAKING. 

Saturday,  December  12,  1857.  Again  visited 
the  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs;  everything  at- 
tending this  visit  was  so  exactly  like  my  first  visit 
that  I  have  nothing  to  note  except  what  relates 
to  the  conference  I  had  with  him.  The  Commis- 
sioners of  my  voyage  assisted  the  Minister  on  this 
occasion. 

My  private  papers  on  "  Japan "  contain  an 
exact  copy  of  what  I  said  on  this  occasion,  there- 
fore I  do  not  copy  it  here. 

It  related  to  the  changed  condition  of  the  world 
by  the  introduction  of  steam ;  that  Japan  would 
be  forced  to  abandon  her  exclusive  policy ;  that  she 
might  soon  become  a  great  and  powerful  nation 
by  simply  permitting  her  people  to  exercise  their 
ingenuity  and  industry;  that  a  moderate  tax  on 
commerce  would  soon  give  her  a  large  revenue,  by 
which  she  might  support  a  respectable  navy ;  that 
the  resources  of  Japan,  when  developed  by  the 
action  of  free  trade,  would  show  a  vast  amount  of 
exchangeable  values;  that  this  production  would 
not  in  any  respect  interfere  with  the  production  of 


238  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

the  necessary  food  for  the  people,  but  would  arise 
from  the  employment  given  to  the  actual  surplus 
labor  of  Japan,  etc.,  etc.  ;  that  foreign  nations  would, 
one  after  another,  send  powerful  fleets  to  Japan  to 
demand  the  opening  of  the  country;  that  Japan 
must  either  yield  or  suffer  the  miseries  of  war  ;  that 
even  if  war  did  not  ensue,  the  country  would  be  kept 
in  a  constant  state  of  excitement  by  the  presence 
of  these  large  foreign  armaments  ;  that  to  make  a 
concession  of  any  value,  it  must  be  made  in  due 
season ;  and  that  the  terms  demanded  by  a  fleet 
would  never  be  as  moderate  as  those  asked  by  a 
person  placed  as  I  was ;  and  that  to  yield  to  a  fleet 
what  was  refused  to  an  ambassador  would  humili- 
ate the  government  in  the  eyes  of  all  the  Japanese 
people,  and  thus  actually  weaken  its  power.  This 
point  was  illustrated  by  the  case  of  China  in  the 
war  of  1839  to  1841,  the  events  succeeding  that 
war,  and  the  present  hostilities. 

I  told  him  that  by  negotiating  with  me,  who  had 
purposely  come  to  Yedo  alone  and  without  the 
presence  of  even  a  single  man-of-war,  the  honor  of 
Japan  would  be  saved ;  that  each  point  should  be 
carefully  discussed  ;  and  that  the  country  should  be 
gradually  opened. 

I  added  that  the  three  great  points  would  be : 
first,  the  reception  of  foreign  ministers  to  reside 
at  Yedo ;  second,  the  freedom  of  trade  with  the 
Japanese,  without  the  interference  of  government 


PBELIMINABIES  TO   TREATY-MAKING.     239 

officers;  and  third,  the  opening  of  additional 
harbors. 

I  added  that  I  did  not  ask  any  exclusive  rights 
for  the  Americans,  and  that  a  treaty  that  would 
be  satisfactory  to  the  President  would  at  once  be 
accepted  by  all  the  great  Western  powers. 

I  did  not  fail  to  point  out  the  danger  to  Japan 
of  having  opium  forced  upon  her,  and  said  I  would 
be  willing  to  prohibit  the  bringing  it  to  Japan.  I 
closed  by  saying  that  my  mission  was  a  friendly 
one  in  every  respect,  that  I  had  no  threats  to 
use ;  that  the  President  merely  informed  them  of 
the  dangers  that  threatened  the  country,  and 
pointed  out  a  way  by  which  not  only  could  those 
dangers  be  averted,  but  Japan  made  a  prosperous, 
powerful,  and  happy  nation.  My  discourse  lasted 
over  two  hours,  and  was  listened  to  with  the  deep- 
est attention  and  interest  by  the  Minister.  He 
asked  some  questions  occasionally,  when  he  did  not 
fully  understand  what  was  said. 

When  I  had  finished,  the  Minister  thanked  me 
for  my  communication,  and  said  it  should  be  com- 
municated to  the  Tai-kun,  and  have  that  consider- 
ation which  it  merited,  and  that  it  was  the  most 
important  matter  ever  brought  before  the  govern- 
ment. He  added  that  the  Japanese  never  acted  as 
promptly  on  business  of  importance  as  the  Ameri- 
cans did  ;  that  many  persons  had  to  be  consulted ; 
and  therefore  I  must  give  them  sufficient  time  for 


240  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

those  purposes.  This  was  to  prepare  me  for  the 
usual  delay  of  the  Japanese  in  everything. 

I  replied  I  wished  them  to  fully  consider  all  I 
had  said,  and  that  I  should  be  very  glad  to  give 
any  explanations  of  details  whenever  it  should  be 
asked. 

Sunday,  December  13,  1857.  The  second  Sun- 
day in  Advent ;  read  the  service  with  Mr.  Heus- 
ken.  I  have  told  the  Japanese  that  I  performed 
my  religious  worship,  in  order  that  they  might  not 
say  they  had  no  knowledge  of  it. 

Monday,  December  14.  I  have  had  a  long  and 
unpleasant  debate  about  my  diplomatic  rights,  on 
the  Japanese  insisting  on  their  right  to  appoint  per- 
sons to  guard  me  from  insult,  injury,  fire,  etc.,  etc. 

I  replied  that  I  had  come  to  Yedo  alone,  there- 
fore I  wished  the  government  to  place  proper 
persons  in  the  house ;  but  that  it  must  be  done  by 
my  request,  and  not  as  their  right.  I  had  in  view 
the  great  importance  of  my  not  doing  anything 
that  might  be  quoted  as  a  precedent  whenever  for- 
eign ministers  shall  come  here  to  reside.  This 
matter  has  been  agitated  for  a  number  of  days,  and 
at  last  I  carried  my  point,  and  the  matter  was  set- 
tled as  follows.  He  wrote  me  a  letter  stating  that 
the  Japanese  government  admitted  my  full  and 
complete  control  of  the  premises  occupied  by  me, 
and  that  no  person  could  enter  the  place  without 
my  permission. 


PRELIMINARIES  TO  TREATY-MAKING.  241 
I  wrote  in  reply,  first  quoting  his  letter,  and 
added  that  I  wished  the  government  to  supply  me 
with  a  proper  number  of  persons  to  protect  me 
from  accidents,  carefully  adding,  "  But  in  so  doing 
I  do  not  admit  the  right  of  the  Japanese  govern- 
ment to  place  any  person  in  my  house,  under  any 
pretense  whatever,  without  my  consent." 

Wednesday,  December  16,  1857.  In  reply  to 
my  request  for  some  place  where  I  could  exercise 
on  horseback,  the  Japanese  offered  me  a  piece  of 
ground  adjoining  my  house,  about  five  yards  wide 
and  some  thirty  yards  long ! 

They  then  offered  me  another  spot,  about  one 
hundred  feet  long  by  seventy-five  feet  wide.  This 
I  also  rejected.  To-day  the  Prince  told  me  that 
they  had  set  apart  a  ba-ba,  not  far  distant  from  my 
place,  and  wished  me  to  send  Mr.  Heusken,  or  to 
go  myself  and  see  it.  Mr.  Heusken  examined  it, 
and  reported  that  it  was  a  regular  military  ground, 
over  three  hundred  yards  long,  and  from  fifty  to 
seventy-five  yards  wide,  and  that  it  would  answer 
my  purpose.  On  this  I  accepted  it,  and  in  the 
afternoon  I  went  to  it.  It  is  on  a  plateau  elevated 
some  fifty  feet  above  my  residence,  and  directly 
opposite  to  a  bridge  and  gate  leading  to  the  resi- 
dence of  the  brothers  of  the  Tai-kun.  It  is  in- 
closed with  a  hedge  and  large  trees.  Large  num- 
bers of  the  people  collected  around  the  hedge  and 
the  streets  by  which  I  went  to  the  place ;  they  were 


242  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

perfectly  quiet,  the  only  noise  being  that  of  the 
street-keepers  with  their  eternal  "  Satu  !  satu !  " 
"  Keep  back !  keep  back!  " 

To-day  I  sent  a  present  of  a  few  bottles  of  wines 
and  liquors  to  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs, 
with  a  copy  of  Bhent's  "  Coast  Pilot"  In  my  let- 
ter to  him  I  called  his  particular  attention  to  the 
book,  and  that  it  contained  an  accurate  account  of 
every  harbor  in  the  United  States,  West  Indies, 
and  South  America ;  that  such  books  were  printed 
by  private  individuals,  and  sold  freely  to  all  that 
wanted  them ;  that  the  government  encouraged 
such  publications,  as  they  increased  the  facilities 
of  foreign  commerce,  which  was  one  of  the  great 
elements  of  our  prosperity ;  and  that  I  considered 
it  as  a  very  proper  book  to  place  in  the  hands  of 
the  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs  in  Japan. 

Tuesday,  December  17,  1857.  A  fine  ride  in 
the  ba-ba  to-day.  The  Japanese  wish  me  to  agree 
to  go  to  the  ba-ba  only  two  days  in  the  week,  and 
that  for  a  single  hour,  as  they  require  it  every 
day  for  the  exercise  of  their  soldiers.  I  replied 
that,  if  the  place  was  wanted  for  that  purpose,  I 
must  of  course  give  it  up,  and,  as  the  times  they 
named  were  unreasonable,  I  would  hereafter  take 
my  exercise  along  the  street  running  along  the 
moat.  This  did  not  suit  at  all,  and  at  last  it  was 
settled  that  the  ba-ba  should  be  at  my  disposal  from 
three  P.  M.  every  day  of  the  week  except  Sunday. 


PBELIMINABIES  TO   TREATY-MAKING.     243 

I  may  be  said  to  be  now  engaged  in  teaching  the 
elements  of  political  economy  to  the  Japanese,  and 
in  giving  them  information  as  to  the  working  of 
commercial  regulations  in  the  West. 

This  is  attended  with  more  labor  than  can  be 
well  imagined,  for  I  not  only  give  them  ideas  for 
which,  as  they  are  new,  they  have  no  adequate 
terms,  but  the  interpreter  does  not  understand  the 
Dutch  terms  when  he  hears  them;  thus  I  am 
sometimes  employed  for  hours  in  trying  to  convey 
a  very  simple  idea.  It  requires  an  incalculable 
amount  of  patience  to  prevent  my  throwing  the 
matter  up  in  despair.  But  I  know  that  every 
word  I  utter,  every  new  idea  I  succeed  in  convey- 
ing, is  at  once  carried  to  the  Council  of  State.  So 
I  persevere  in  the  hope  that  my  labors  will  at 
last  produce  fruit,  if  not  for  me,  at  least  for  my 
successor. 

Friday,  December  18,  1857.  After  an  incredi- 
ble amount  of  talk  and  difficulty  the  Japanese 
have  given  me  a  map  of  Yedo.  I  am  not  to  give 
it  away,  or  suffer  it  to  be  copied. 

Sunday,  December  20.  The  last  Sunday  in 
Advent ;  read  service  as  usual.  Yesterday  had  an 
earthquake,  not  very  sharp.  Quite  unwell  these 
three  days. 

Monday,  December  21.  To-day  the  Commis- 
sioners of  my  voyage  call  on  me  for  the  purpose  of 
receiving  information. 


244  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

The  chief  point  of  their  inquiries  related  to  the 
object  of  sending  ministers  to  foreign  countries  ; 
their  duties  ;  their  rights  under  the  laws  of  nations. 
All  these  questions  were  as  clearly  answered  as 
possible. 

I  added  that  when  a  Minister  gave  serious 
offense  to  the  court  to  which  he  was  appointed, 
the  government  might  suspend  intercourse  with 
him,  and  order  him  to  leave  the  country ;  that  the 
usual  mode  was  to  complain  of  his  conduct  to  his 
own  government  and  to  request  his  recall.  The 
Commissioners  asked  questions  also  respecting 
commerce,  and  what  I  meant  by  trade  being  car- 
ried on  without  the  interference  of  government 
officers.  This  I  also  succeeded  in  explaining  to 
their  full  satisfaction.  They  said  they  were  in  the 
dark  on  all  these  points,  and  therefore  were  like 
children ;  therefore  I  must  have  patience  with 
them.  They  added,  that  they  placed  the  fullest 
confidence  in  all  my  statements. 

I  gave  them  a  written  paper  containing  the  basis 
of  a  commercial  treaty,  which  I  explained  to  them 
article  by  article,  and  told  them  I  wished  that 
paper  might  be  taken  into  serious  consideration. 

I  then  gave  them  champagne,  which  they  ap- 
peared to  understand  and  to  like. 

Friday,  December  25,  1857.  Merry  Christmas  ! 
I  little  thought  on  last  Christmas  to  pass  the  pres- 
ent one  in  Yedo.     If  I  could  pass  one  in  Pekin  it 


PBELIM1N ARIES   TO   TREATY-MAKING.      245 

would  make  my  different  places  of  passing  the  day 
a  remarkable  list. 

I  ask  every  day  when  I  may  expect  an  answer 
to  my  great  communications. 

The  invariable  reply  is,  that  a  great  many  per- 
sons are  to  be  consulted :  the  brothers  of  the  Tai- 
kun,  all  the  daimios,  and  some  other  great  men  ; 
that  letters  have  to  be  written,  and  answers  re- 
ceived; and  then  the  old  story,  "The  Japanese 
do  not  decide  important  affairs  until  after  long 
deliberation."  * 

Wrote  to  the  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs,  trans- 
mitting a  memorandum,  pointing  out  the  most 
obvious  articles  that  will  form  the  elements  of  for- 
eign commerce,  and  showing  how  these  articles 
may  be  increased  in  production,  etc. 

Sunday,  December  27.  Snow,  and  a  gloomy 
day.  I  cannot  get  one  word  out  of  the  Prince  of 
Shinano  as  to  my  prospects  of  success,  nor  a  hint 
as  to  the  existence  or  non-existence  of  any  obsta- 
cles. This  state  of  uncertainty,  joined  to  indiffer- 
ent health,  greatly  depresses  my  spirits. 

Thursday,  December  31,  1857.  An  earthquake 
to-day.  I  have  not  had  a  visit  for  three  days 
from  the  Prince  of  Shinano.  This,  joined  to  the 
uncertainty  that  hangs  over  my  negotiations,  causes 
me  to  pass  this  the  last  day  of  the  year  in  a  mel- 
ancholy manner. 

I  fondly  hope  that  the  year  now  about  to  com- 


246  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

mence  will  give  me  more  frequent  opportunities 
of  communicating  with  the  outer  world  than  I  have 
enjoyed  during  the  present  one  ;  in  truth,  I  was 
most  shamefully  neglected  by  the  navy  in  the 
East. 

Friday,  January  1,  1858.  I  desire  to  return 
thanks  to  Almighty  God  for  permitting  me  to  see 
the  beginning  of  a  new  year. 

With  my  poor  health,  and  over  half  a  century 
of  years,  I  cannot  promise  myself  that  I  shall  see 
another.  I  am  thankful  that  I  have  been  able  to 
accomplish  so  much  as  I  already  have  done  for  the 
honor  of  my  country  during  the  past  year,  and 
I  hope  I  shall  be  able  to  effectually  open  this  coun- 
try before  the  present  one  closes.  I  was  visited  in 
honor  of  my  New  Year's  Day  by  the  Princes  of 
Toke  and  Shinano  ;  both  came  in  dresses  of  cere- 
mony, and  brought  me  some  trifling  presents.  Had 
some  very  pleasant  conversation,  but  nothing  was 
said  on  business. 

Saturday,  January  9,  1858.  To-day  the  Prince 
of  Shinano  visited  me  for  the  first  time  in  three 
days.  I  determined  to  bring  about  a  crisis,  and 
therefore  began  by  saying  that  it  was  now  twenty- 
nine  days  since  I  had  made  some  very  important 
communications  to  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs, 
of  which  no  official  notice  had  since  been  taken  ; 
that  they  would  not  even  name  a  period  within 
which  I  should  have  a  reply.    That  such  treatment 


PRELIMINARIES  TO  TREATY-MAKING.     247 

could  not  be  submitted  to  ;  that  the  President  had 
sent  me  to  Yedo  on  a  most  friendly  mission,  having 
solely  the  benefit  of  Japan  in  view;  that  the 
United  States  asked  nothing  for  themselves  ;  that 
the  trade  of  Japan  was  no  object  to  us ;  that  all 
we  cared  for  was  that  our  ships  could  make  repairs 
and  get  supplies  in  their  harbors,  and  that  we  had 
already  got  that  point ;  that  they  must  open  their 
eyes,  and  then  they  would  see  that  I  neither  asked 
nor  would  I  accept  any  favors  from  Japan ;  that 
ten  days  ago  I  offered  to  give  them  explanations 
on  any  points  on  which  they  needed  information ; 
and  would  reply  saying  that  their  treatment  of  me 
showed  that  no  negotiations  could  be  carried  on 
with  them  unless  the  Plenipotentiary  was  backed 
by  a  fleet  and  offered  them  cannon-balls  for  argu- 
ments. I  closed  by  saying  that,  unless  something 
was'  done,  I  should  return  to  Shimoda. 

Poor  Shinano  listened  in  evident  trepidation, 
and  earnestly  assured  me  that  no  slight  to  the  Pres- 
ident or  insult  to  me  was  intended ;  that,  as  to- 
morrow was  my  Sunday,  and  I  would  not  do  busi- 
ness on  that  day,  he  could  not  answer  me  before 
the  next  day,  at  which  time  he  told  me  I  should 
be  satisfied. 

This  was  apparently  a  bold  step  on  my  part,  but 
from  my  knowledge  of  this  people  I  felt  that 
I  ran  no  kind  of  danger  of  breaking  off  my  nego- 
tiations by  what  I  did,  and  that  the  more  I  yielded 


248  MB.  HABBI&S  JOURNAL. 

and  acquiesced  the  more  they  would  impose  on  me  ; 
while  by  taking  a  bold  attitude,  and  assuming  a 
threatening  tone,  I  should  at  once  bring  them  to 
terms. 

Monday,  January  11,  1858.  A  visit  to-day 
from  the  Prince  of  Shinano.  He  began  by  saying 
that  he  had  reported  all  I  had  said  to  him,  at  our 
last  interview,  to  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs ; 
that  the  Minister  admitted  that  I  had  just  cause  of 
complaint,  but  that  the  position  of  the  government 
was  most  difficult ;  that  they  were  enlightened,  and 
knew  that  what  I  had  recommended  was  truly  for 
the  best  interests  of  Japan ;  but  their  conviction 
alone  was  not  sufficient ;  they  had  to  convince  the 
brothers  of  the  Tai-kun,  the  daimios,  the  military 
and  literary  classes,  of  the  wisdom  of  following  my 
advice ;  that  the  Minister  and  his  colleagues  had 
labored  constantly,  night  and  day,  to  secure  the 
consent  of  the  persons  referred  to  ;  and  that  a  bro- 
ther of  the  Tai-kun  was  in  Kiushiu,  and  they  had 
to  write  to  him  and  get  his  reply ;  and  finally  he 
said  that  on  Friday,  the  15th,  he  would  inform  me 
the  day  when  I  should  have  an  answer. 

This  was  much  to  my  satisfaction ;  and  I  told 
the  Prince  that,  so  long  as  I  had  specific  days 
fixed,  then  I  could  wait  with  patience.  I  endeav- 
ored to  draw  from  him  some  hints  as  to  the  proba- 
ble color  of  the  answer  I  should  receive,  but  I 
could  not  elicit  anything ;   either  he  has  "  great 


PRELIMINARIES  TO   TREATY-MAKING.     249 

powers  of  silence,"  or  he  actually  was  ignorant  of 
the  matter. 

Friday,  15th  January.  To-day,  according  to 
promise,  the  Prince  of  Shinano  visited  me.  He 
said  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  would  give  me 
an  answer  to-morrow,  or  at  a  later  day,  as  best 
suited  me ;  and,  as  the  matters  were  of  the  highest 
importance,  he  desired  to  have  a  conference  with 
me.  I  accepted  at  once  the  day  and  place  of  con- 
ference. 

Saturday,  January  16.  Again  to  the  Minister's ; 
retinue,  roads,  and  the  appearances  in  the  streets 
exactly  as  they  were  on  my  two  previous  visits  to 
him,  except  that  there  was  not  so  many  people  in 
the  streets  to  look  at  the  cortege  as  it  passed.  For- 
eigners will  soon  cease  to  excite  curiosity  here. 

I  was  received  in  the  usual  manner  by  the  [Min- 
ister], except  that  I  thought  his  smile  was  warmer 
this  morning  than  before  ;  to-day  it  was  more  than 
skin-deep.  The  Minister  soon  opened  the  confer- 
ence by  saying  that  the  communication  I  had  made 
verbally  to  him,  together  with  the  written  memo- 
randum I  had  sent  to  him  and  the  information 
I  had  communicated  to  his  princes,  had  all  been 
laid  before  his  Majesty  the  Tai-kun.  His  Majesty 
desired  first  to  thank  the  President  for  his  very 
kind  advice,  and  for  the  friendship  he  had  thus 
shown  for  Japan.  The  Minister  then  proceeded 
to  give  me  his  Majesty's  answer. 


250  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

The  demand  for  the  residence  of  a  Minister  at 
Yedo  is  admitted.  The  place  of  his  residence  and 
the  rights  he  is  to  exercise  shall  be  settled  by  ne- 
gotiation. 

The  right  of  free  trade  is  granted.  Commission- 
ers shall  be  appointed  to  settle  the  details  of  trade. 

Three  harbors  having  already  been  opened,  and 
as  Japan  is  a  small  country,  the  number  cannot  be 
increased  ;  but  as  Shimoda  is  not  found  to  be  suit- 
able as  a  harbor,  another  shall  be  given  in  place  of 
it,  but  the  number  may  not  be  increased  beyond 
three.  After  the  Minister  had  ended,  I  told  him 
I  was  much  concerned  at  his  Majesty's  decision 
about  harbors ;  that  it  was  impossible  for  me  to 
make  a  satisfactory  treaty  under  such  restrictions. 
I  pointed  out  to  him  the  west  coast  of  Japan,  bor- 
dering on  the  Japan  Sea.  From  Hakodate  to 
Nagasaki,  following  the  coast  line,  it  is  quite  four 
hundred  ri  (one  thousand  English  miles),  yet  in 
all  that  distance  not  a  single  harbor  was  opened ; 
that  many , American  whaleships  were  in  the  Japan 
Sea,  and  it  was  very  important  for  them  to  have 
a  convenient  harbor  in  that  sea ;  that  his  Majesty 
had  spoken  of  the  small  size  of  the  Empire,  but  an 
examination  of  the  maps  of  the  principal  parts  of 
the  world  would  show  that  Japan  had  a  coast  line 
far  greater  than  the  average  states.  I  therefore 
earnestly  recommended  a  reconsideration  of  that 
part  of  his  Majesty's  decision. 


PRELIMINARIES  TO  TREATY-MAKING.     251 

I  was  informed  that  the  Commissioners  to  nego- 
tiate with  me  would  be  appointed  immediately,  and 
that  the  first  interview  should  be  held  day  after 
to-morrow,  and  that  the  negotiations  should  be  con- 
ducted at  my  quarters.  I  then  handed  the  Minister 
a  copy  and  translation  of  my  full  powers,  and 
pointed  out  to  him  the  necessity  that  the  powers  of 
the  Japanese  Commissioners  should  specify  that 
they  were  appointed  to  negotiate  with  me,  and  not 
a  mere  general  power.  I  requested  that  a  transla- 
tion of  the  Japanese  full  powers  should  be  handed 
to  me  before  the  meeting. 

I  also  told  the  Minister  that,  as  soon  as  we  had 
gone  through  the  formality  of  exchanging  our  full 
powers,  I  would  hand  the  Commissioners  a  draft 
of  such  a  treaty  as  would  be  satisfactory ;  that  they 
could  have  it  translated  into  Japanese,  and  after 
having  duly  considered  it  we  could  then  proceed 
with  our  negotiations;  that  this  course  would 
greatly  facilitate  our  negotiations,  and  thus  save 
valuable  time ;  adding  that  I  had  nothing  to  con- 
ceal, no  secret  motives  or  wishes,  and  therefore 
I  could  proceed  in  this  frank  and  open  manner. 
The  Minister  said  that  my  course  was  very  praise- 
worthy, and  that  it  gave  him  much  satisfaction. 

I  have  the  draft  of  a  treaty  which  I  drew  up  be- 
fore leaving  Shimoda,  and  I  was  anxious  to  take 
the  initiative  in  presenting  a  draft,  as,  had  the 
Japanese  presented  one,  it  would  have  been  diffi- 


252  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

cult  if  not  impossible  to  reject  it  entirely,  and  to 
try  to  amend  one  of  their  performances  would  have 
made  a  piece  of  literary  or  diplomatic  patchwork 
that  would  have  excited  the  laughter  of  all  who 
might  have  the  misfortune  to  be  compelled  to  read 
it.  I  could  not  learn  the  number  or  names  of  the 
intended  Commissioners.  I  was  told  the  Prince  of 
Shinano  would  be  one,  but  nothing  further. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

THE   HERMITS   INSTRUCTED   IN  MODERN   WORLD 
LIFE. 

Monday,  January  18,  1858.  To-day  I  rigged 
out  in  full  dress,  in  honor  of  the  signatures  of  the 
President  and  Tai-kun,  which  are  to  be  exhibited 
to-day.  I  learn  to-day  that  I  am  to  have  only  two 
Commissioners  to  deal  with.  This  pleases  me,  as 
it  will  prevent  much  interruption.  Although  the 
Commissioners  will  have  full  powers,  yet  in  reality 
I  shall  be  negotiating  with  the  whole  Council  of 
State.  The  Commissioners  will  hear  my  argu- 
ments, and  then  request  time  to  consider  them. 
They  will  repeat  what  I  have  said  to  the  Council, 
who  will  consider  the  matter,  and  then  dictate  what 
the  Commissioners  shall  say.  I  feel  just  as  sure 
of  this  as  though  I  had  been  told  it  by  themselves. 
The  Commissioners  are  Inouye,  Prince  of  Shinano, 
and  Iwase*,  Prince  of  Higo. 

At  one  p.  M.  the  Commissioners  appeared ;  they 
were  attended  by  two  secretaries  to  take  down 
every  word  that  was  uttered. 

We  saluted  each  other  standing.  I  then  gave  my 
full  powers  to  Mr.  Heusken,  who  handed  it  to  the 


254  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

Prince  of  Shinano,  who  opened  it,  looked  at  the 
President's  signature  and  the  seal,  and  then  passed 
it  to  his  colleague,  who  also  examined  it  and  then 
returned  it  to  Mr.  Heusken,  who  handed  it  to  me. 
The  full  powers  of  the  Japanese  Commissioners 
were  then  given  to  the  vice-governor  of  Shimoda, 
who  handed  it  to  me.  I  opened  it  and  looked  at 
the  Imperial  seal  and  signature,  and  then  returned 
it.  Those  who  have  read  Commodore  Perry's 
account  of  his  Japanese  expedition  will  remember 
that  the  Japanese  would  not  let  their  full  powers 
go  out  of  their  hands,  pretending  the  Imperial  seal 
was  so  sacred  it  could  not  be  handled  by  any  but 
a  Japanese,  and,  of  them,  only  by  those  to  whom  it 
was  specially  directed. 

The  seal  was  in  vermilion,  about  two  and  a  half 
inches  in  diameter,  and  composed  of  the  old  Chi- 
nese "  Seal  character."  This  over,  I  handed  the 
Commissioners  a  Dutch  translation  of  my  draft  of 
a  treaty.  I  told  them  that,  as  this  treaty  might 
contain  words  not  well  understood  by  their  inter- 
preters, I  suggested  that  the  work  had  better  be 
done  in  one  of  the  rooms  of  the  house  where  we 
were,  so  that,  if  any  words  or  phrases  were  not 
understood,  they  could  at  once  have  recourse  to  Mr. 
Heusken  for  explanation,  and  thereby  not  only 
would  the  translations  be  facilitated,  but  greater 
exactness  would  be  secured.  They  assented  at 
once  to  my  suggestion  ;  they  added,  that  as  soon  as 


THE  HEBMITS  INSTRUCTED.  255 

they  had  time  to  examine  the  translation  and  con- 
sider it,  they  would  again  meet  me,  but  that  it 
would  require  some  days  to  do  both.  I  requested 
the  Commissioners  not  to  read  the  treaty  piece- 
meal, as  it  was  translated,  as  the  various  articles 
had  such  relations  with  each  other  that  they  must 
be  read  together  and  not  separately  ;  that  to  read 
it  as  it  was  translated  would  give  very  erroneous 
ideas,  and  thus  perhaps  prejudices  might  arise 
that  it  would  be  difficult  afterwards  to  remove. 
They  at  once  assented  to  this.  The  original  draft 
of  the  treaty  will  be  found  among  my  private 
"  Japan  papers." 

Saturday,  January  23.  To-day  the  translations 
were  finished.  In  order  to  be  sure  of  the  transla- 
tion being  correct,  I  had  the  Japanese  translator 
read  from  the  Japanese  copy  and  translate  orally 
into  Dutch  to  Mr.  Heusken,  who  held  the  Dutch 
version.  It  has  been  an  immense  labor,  but  my 
great  anxiety  has  been  that  the  Japanese  should 
fully  understand  what  I  proposed  to  them. 

A  visit  from  the  Prince  of  Shinano  to-day. 
Some  time  ago  I  told  him  that,  if  he  saw  a  dog  that 
had  any  white  hair  about  him,  he  might  be  sure 
the  tip  of  the  dog's  tail  would  be  white  also.  This 
he  repeated,  of  course,  at  the  Castle,  and  it  appears 
that  each  of  the  nobles  set  his  retainers  to  search 
for  a  dog  which  should  have  some  white  about  his 
body,  while  the  terminal  color  of  his  tail  should  be 


256  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

black,  or  at  least  not  white.  Many  thousands  of 
dogs  have  been  examined,  and  as  yet  no  exception 
to  my  rule  has  been  found.  This  has  given  me 
a  reputation  for  universal  wisdom  that  is  quite 
amusing  from  its  simplicity. 

I  have  omitted  to  note  that  I  made  presents  of 
wines,  cordials,  sardines,  preserved  salmon  and  lob- 
ster, and  Bramah  locks  to  all  the  Commissioners 
of  my  voyage.  These  presents  exhausted  all  the 
articles  I  brought  from  Shimoda. 

The  Tai-kun  was  much  pleased  with  my  presents, 
and  uses  the  astral  lamp  constantly.  He  sent  me 
a  return  present  of  a  very  handsome  cabinet. 

The  Commissioners  each  sent  me  a  present  of 
a  piece  of  brocade  silk,  twenty-four  inches  wide 
and  three  and  a  quarter  yards  long,  the  pattern  of 
a  pair  of  such  breeches  as  are  worn  by  the  highest 
ranks  only. 

Monday,  January  25,  1858.  To-day,  at  two 
p.  M.,  we  fairly  opened  our  negotiations. 

In  this  journal  I  shall  confine  myself  to  the 
leading  facts  of  actual  transactions,  omitting  the 
interminable  discourses  of  the  Japanese,  where 
the  same  proposition  may  be  repeated  a  dozen 
times ;  nor  shall  I  note  their  positive  refusal  of 
points  they  subsequently  grant,  and  meant  to  grant 
all  the  while ;  nor  many  absurd  proposals  made  by 
them,  without  the  hope,  and  scarcely  the  wish,  of 
having  them    accepted :  for    all  such  proceedings 


THE  HERMITS  INSTRUCTED.  257 

are  according  to  the  rule  of  Japanese  diplomacy, 
and  lie  who  shows  the  greatest  absurdity  in  such 
matters  is  most  esteemed.  They  do  not  know  the 
value  of  a  straightforward  and  truthful  policy ;  at 
least  they  do  not  practice  it.  They  never  hesitate 
at  uttering  a  falsehood,  even  where  the  truth  would 
serve  the  same  purpose. 

The  preamble  to  the  treaty  was  accepted,  as  was 
the  first  article  so  far  as  to  agree  to  receive  a  Min- 
ister and  Consuls.  They  wished  the  Minister  to 
reside  between  Kanagawa  and  Kawasaki,  and  only 
come  to  Yedo  when  he  had  business ;  nor  should 
the  Minister  or  Consuls  travel  anywhere  in  Japan 
except  on  actual  business. 

They  then  proceeded  to  read  from  a  book  what 
I  will  abridge  and  insert  merely  to  remind  me 
hereafter  of  their  mode  of  doing  business. 

They  began  by  saying  that  they  had  carefully 
considered  the  draft  of  the  treaty  I  had  given 
them.  The  Empire  being  small,  it  had  been  deter- 
mined that  not  more  than  three  harbors  should  be 
opened ;  that  Shimoda  should  be  closed,  and  a 
large  harbor  should  be  given  in  place  of  it.  The 
opening  of  any  harbors  to  Commodore  Perry  was 
a  great  concession,  and  was  made  with  much  diffi- 
culty. Thus  far,  American  ships  have  only  been 
furnished  with  supplies,  and  not  with  Japanese 
goods.  Now,  in  consequence  of  the  President's 
letter,  and  the  very  important  and  friendly  com- 


2o8  ME.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

mimications  of  the  Plenipotentiary,  it  has  been 
determined  to  open  trade  with  the  Americans  on 
the  same  terms  as  were  contained  in  the  treaties 
just  made  with  the  Russians  and  Dutch ! ! !  They 
offered  Kanagawa  and  Yokohama  in  place  of  Shi- 
moda,  and,  after  all  the  daimios  are  satisfied  with 
the  effects  of  trade,  another  harbor  should  be 
opened.  Trade  to  be  conducted  as  provided  for 
in  the  Dutch  and  Russian  treaties.  Americans 
cannot  be  allowed  to  travel  in  Japan,  and  must 
be  confined  to  strict  limits. 

They  here  paused,  and  I  replied  that,  by  the  ninth 
article  of  the  treaty  of  Kanagawa,  anything  granted 
to  other  nations  accrued  at  once  to  the  Americans, 
and  therefore  did  not  require  any  treaty  stipula- 
tions ; 1  that,  as  to  those  treaties,  the  conditions  of 
them  were  disgraceful  to  all  parties  engaged  in 
making  them ;  that,  so  far  as  trade  was  concerned, 
those  documents  were  not  worth  the  paper  on 
which  they  were  written ;  that,  were  I  to  sign  any 
such  conditions,  the  President  would  recall  me  in 
disgrace.  I  then  demanded  that  the  promise  of 
the  Tai-kun  "  that  freedom  of  trade  should  be 
granted"  should  be  made  good.  I  added  that  it 
was  mere  trifling  to  offer  to  me  conditions  that  had 
already  accrued  to  us  months  ago ;  that  the  propo- 

1  This,  the  "  most  favored  nation  "  clause,  was  inserted  in  the 
Perry  treaty  at  the  suggestion  of  Dr.  S.  Wells  Williams,  who 
stated  this  fact  in  a  letter  to  the  editor. 


THE  HERMITS  INSTRUCTED.  259 

sition  to  shut  out  the  Minister  from  residing  in 
Yedo,  or  wherever  he  pleased,  was  highly  offensive, 
and  that  it  would  be  far  better  for  them  to  refuse 
to  receive  him  than  to  couple  his  reception  with 
such  conditions  ;  and  that  the  Minister  and  Consuls 
must  have  all  the  rights  enjoyed  by  such  persons 
under  the  laws  of  nations ;  that  I  asked  nothing 
more  for  them  than  those  rights,  and  that  I  could 
not  take  any  less. 

Monday,  January  25,  1858.  The  Commission- 
ers were  not  prepared  for  this ;  it  quite  upset  their 
plan  so  nicely  prepared  for  them  by  the  Council 
of  State,  and  they  were  embarrassed  exceedingly. 
They  began  to  repeat  the  old  story :  "  Japan  has 
been  closed  for  more  than  two  hundred  years ;  the 
people  are  not  prepared  for  such  great  changes  as 
you  propose ;  they  must  be  introduced  by  degrees, 
and  as  the  people  learn  to  know  you  better,  then 
we  can  act  more  freely,"  etc. 

I  replied  that,  under  such  regulations  as  they 
proposed,  trade  was  impossible;  that  Americans 
might  be  in  Japan  for  fifty  years,  and  make  no 
advances  towards  a  better  acquaintance;  that  in- 
tercourse under  such  circumstances,  so  far  from 
removing  prejudices,  would  increase  them,  for  the 
Japanese  would  learn  to  despise  the  Americans  as 
much  as  they  do  the  Dutch. 

That,  from  all  I  had  observed  in  Japan,  I  was 
convinced  that  the  people  were  actually  anxious  to 


260  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

have  a  free  intercourse  with  us,  and,  if  objections 
existed  anywhere,  they  were  confined  to  the  daimios 
and  the  military,  two  classes  of  people  that  in  all 
countries  were  opposed  to  any  improvement  in  the 
condition  of  the  great  body  of  the  people. 

The  Commissioners  frankly  admitted  that  I  was 
right  in  my  last  statement,  adding  that  a  large 
class  called  the  literati,  or  expectants  of  office, 
being  entirely  ignorant  of  everything  out  of  their 
own  land,  were  also  opposed  to  opening  the  coun- 
try. In  explanation  of  this  I  was  told  that  every 
person  who  had  mastered  the  four  books  of  Con- 
fucius,1 and  could  pass  the  requisite  examination, 
received  a  small  pension  from  the  government, 
and  that,  as  officers  were  wanted,  they  were  selected 
from  this  class.  They  added  that  colleges  were 
established  at  Yedo,  and  in  each  of  the  provinces  of 
the  empire ;  that  the  only  books  used  were  Confu- 
cius and  the  History  of  China ;  that  no  sciences, 
arts,  history,  or  polite  literature,  or  in  fact  any- 
thing but  Confucius  and  Chinese  history,  were 
taught  in  those  institutions. 

The  Commissioners  here  had  a  long  and  ani- 
mated conversation  together. 

After  it  ended,  the  Prince  of  Shinano  asked  me 

1  On  the  Chinese  ethical  system,  Confucianism  in  its  modern 
form,  philosophy  in  Japan,  see  The  Religions  of  Japan,  New 
York,  1895,  and  Dr.  George  Win.  Knox's  papers  in  T.  A.  S.  J. 
vol.  xx. 


THE  HERMITS  INSTRUCTED.  261 

if  I  would  hear  a  private,  confidential  matter, 
which  he  wished  to  communicate  to  me.  I  replied, 
"  Most  certainly."  He  then  said  that,  of  the  sons 
and  brothers  of  military  men,  none  enjoyed  any 
rank  except  the  eldest  son ;  that  they  all  received 
a  military  education,  being  taught  the  art  of  war, 
the  use  of  weapons,  etc. ;  they  had  no  pay,  nor 
any  prospect  of  advancement  in  life ;  they  were 
supported  in  idleness  by  the  head  of  the  family, 
as  their  position  forbade  their  devoting  themselves 
to  any  useful  avocations,  and  they  had  no  hope 
of  honorable  employment.  Their  only  distinction 
consisted  in  their  right  to  wear  two  swords.  From 
these  habits  of  idleness  many  of  them  fell  into  bad 
courses,  became  dissipated,  drunken  brawlers  and 
bullies ;  and  that,  when  their  conduct  became  too 
outrageous,  they  were  disowned  and  cast  off  by 
their  families. 

In  this  condition,  they  form  a  class  called 
"  Ro-nin," :  which  corresponds  to  bravo,  bully, 
rowdy,  and  loafer.  The  government  has  just  dis- 
covered a  plot  among  these  "  Ro-nin  "  against  the 

1  Literally  wave-man.  When  the  retainer  of  a  daimio  was  set 
afloat  or  adrift,  or  even  resigned  the  service  of  his  master,  he  was 
free  to  act  as  he  pleased,  hut  there  was  not  necessarily  any  dis- 
grace in  being  a  ro-nin,  and,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  not  a  few 
ro-nin  were  peaceful  and  honorable  gentlemen.  My  own  inter- 
preter in  Fukui,  a  cultivated  scholar,  one  of  the  first  samurai 
who  gave  up  the  wearing  of  two  swords  (presenting  his  longest 
one  to  myself),  was  a  ro-nin. 


262  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

American  Ambassador  (what  they  intended  to  do 
to  me  I  could  not  learn),1  and  the  government  had 
that  morning  arrested  three  ringleaders  of  the  con- 
spirators, and  had  them  now  in  prison ;  that  it  had 
given  the  government  the  greatest  possible  anx- 
iety ;  for,  should  anything  happen  to  the  Ambas- 
sador, it  would  be  the  cause  of  serious  difficulties 
with  the  United  States,  besides  disgracing  the  gov- 
ernment of  Japan  in  the  eyes  of  all  the  civilized 
world ;  he  then  added  that  a  large  body  of  men 
was  now  employed  in  patrolling  around  my  house 
and  in  all  the  neighborhood,  and  that  at  night  they 
would  be  in  all  the  various  courts  and  open  spaces 
of  the  house.  He  then  gave  me  the  names  of  these 
three  Yedo  rowdies.     They  are  as  follows :  — 

Horeye  Yosi  Nosuke  [Hore*i  Yoshinosuke*]. 

Nobu-ta  nee  [Nobutani]  Tui-ro.     To-zo. 

The  Commissioners  now  resumed,  and  said,  from 
what  had  been  told  me,  I  must  see  that  the  resi- 
dence of  foreign  ministers  in  Yedo  would  be  cer- 
tain to  cause  disturbances,  and  therefore  it  was  far 
better  for  them  to  reside  at  Kawasaki  or  Kanagawa. 

1  Mr.  Harris's  life  was  in  real  danger,  for  the  purpose  of  these 
Ro-nin  was  nothing  less  than  to  assassinate  him.  Between  1858 
and  1870,  many  foreigners,  prohahly  several  score  in  all,  were 
wounded  or  murdered  by  these  cowardly  swashbucklers,  Mr. 
Heusken  being  one  of  the  first  victims.  See  Nitobe's  United 
States  and  Japan,  pp.  65,  75,  76.  The  soshi,  such  as  fired  at  Li 
Hung  Chang  at  Shimonos^ki  in  March,  1895,  was  the  successor  of 
the  murderous  ro-nin. 


THE  HERMITS  INSTRUCTED.  263 

I  thought  it  a  most  suspicious  circumstance  that 
these  "  Ro-nin "  should  have  remained  perfectly 
quiet  for  the  whole  fifty-five  days  I  have  been  in 
Yedo,  and  should  only  stir  at  the  very  nick  of  time 
that  the  question  of  the  residence  of  foreign  minis- 
ters in  Japan  was  to  be  agitated,  and  that  they 
should  be  arrested  on  the  morning  of  the  very  first 
day  that  the  conferences  were  to  be  opened ;  there- 
fore I  concluded  that  if  the  whole  matter  was  not 
an  actual  "  Arrowsmith,"  it  was  very  much  like 
one. 

I  replied  to  all  this  that  they  did  not  know  the 
material  of  which  foreigners  were  composed,  if 
they  supposed  that  the  acts  of  three,  or  three 
thousand  "  Ro-nin  "  would  keep  them  away  from 
Yedo ;  that  I  considered  it  as  too  trifling  a  matter 
to  call  for  any  serious  reply. 

The  Commissioners  were  again  in  a  quandary 
at  my  suggestion.  They  took  up  my  draft,  and 
gave  a  general  answer  on  each  article.  The  de- 
mand for  Americans  to  have  Japanese  coin,  or  for 
Japanese  to  receive  American  coin,  was  rejected  in 
a  most  decisive  manner. 

It  was  emphatically  declared  that  no  sales  could 
be  made  except  through  Japanese  officials.  In 
this  manner  they  went  through  the  treaty,  reject- 
ing everything  except  article  8.  This  article  I  had 
inserted  with  scarce  a  hope  that  I  should  obtain  it. 
It  provides  for  the  free  exercise  of  their  religion 


264  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

by  the  Americans,  with  the  right  to  erect  suit- 
able places  of  worship,  and  that  the  Japanese 
would  abolish  the  practice  of  trampling  on  the 
cross.  To  my  surprise  and  delight,  this  article 
was  accepted !  I  am  aware  that  the  Dutch  have 
published  to  the  world  that  the  Japanese  had 
signed  articles  granting  freedom  of  worship,  and 
also  agreeing  to  abolish  trampling  on  the  cross.  It 
is  true  that  the  Dutch  proposed  the  abolition,  but 
the  Japanese  refused  to  sign  it. 

In  the  Dutch  treaty  of  January,  1856,  an  arti- 
cle provides  that  "  within  the  buildings  at  De- 
shima  the  Dutch  may  practice  their  own  or  the 
Christian  religion."  The  extraordinary  words 
"  their  own  or  the  Christian  religion  "  are  copied 
from  the  treaty  as  sent  to  me  by  the  Dutch  Com- 
missioner, Mr.  John  Henry  Donker  Curtius,  from 
Nagasaki ;  and  it  is  also  in  the  copy  of  the  same 
treaty  which  was  furnished  me  by  the  Japanese. 

I  have  copies  of  every  article  ever  made  by  the 
Japanese  with  the  Russians,  Dutch,  and  English, 
and  the  above  is  the  only  article  that  relates  to 
religion.  I  told  the  Commissioners,  as  we  were 
about  to  adjourn  at  five  P.  M.,  that  it  was  useless 
to  proceed  with  the  further  consideration  of  the 
treaty,  until  they  would  consent  to  grant  the  Min- 
ister the  rights  he  enjoyed  under  the  laws  of 
nations. 

Tuesday,   January   26,    1858.      Commissioners 


THE  HERMITS  INSTRUCTED.  265 

come  at  half  past  two  P.  M.  They  open  the 
business  by  saying  that  I  had  misunderstood  them 
yesterday ;  that  they  did  not  refuse  the  right  of 
the  Minister  to  reside  in  Yedo,  but  only  recom- 
mended Kawasaki  or  Kanagawa  as  a  more  suitable 
place  for  his  first  residence.  They  therefore  ac- 
cepted the  article  as  it  stood,  so  far  as  it  relates 
to  the  Minister.  They  wished,  however,  that  the 
treaty  should  not  go  into  effect  until  January  1, 
1861  (it  stood  July  4,  1859,  in  my  draft).  I  re- 
plied that  to  suspend  a  treaty  for  three  years  was 
an  unheard-of  thing,  and  showed  a  most  unfriendly 
spirit  on  their  part.  They  hastily  replied  that  they 
did  not  mean  the  treaty,  only  that  the  Minister 
should  not  be  sent  before  that  time.  I  answered 
that  was  even  worse  than  the  other ;  that  the 
object  of  sending  a  Minister  was,  that  he  could 
promptly  settle  any  small  difficulties  that  might 
arise ;  whereas,  if  they  were  neglected  until  word 
could  be  sent  to  America,  they  might  grow  into 
grave  and  serious  matters.  I  added  that  the  prop- 
osition manifested  a  spirit  quite  at  variance  with 
the  preamble  of  this  treaty.  They  then  asked  me 
to  give  them  my  secret  promise  that  the  Minister 
would  not  be  sent  before  that  time.  I  told  them 
that  such  a  promise  was  beyond  my  power,  as  it 
was  the  President  and  not  the  Plenipotentiary 
that  had  that  matter  in  his  power.  They  then 
requested  me  to  write  to  the  President,  making 


266  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

known  their  wishes  on  this  head.  I  told  them  I 
would  write  to  the  Secretary  of  State,  who  would 
make  their  wishes  known  to  the  President,  and 
this  satisfied  them. 

They  then  insisted  that  the  consuls  should  not 
have  the  right  to  travel  in  Japan  "  except  on  busi- 
ness." I  pointed  out  to  them  that  to  accede  to 
such  a  clause  would  put  every  Consul  at  once  in 
the  power  of  each  local  Governor,  who  would  have 
the  right  to  inquire  into  his  business,  etc. ;  that,  if 
the  Consul  wished  to  make  a  journey  for  his  health, 
he  could  not  do  so,  with  other  objections.  They 
said  that,  as  the  treaty  was  to  be  read  by  all  the 
daimios  and  great  nobles,  they  did  not  wish  to  have 
it  appear  that  every  Consul  had  the  right  to  travel 
in  Japan;  that  the  words  "  on  business  "  were  pro- 
posed as  a  mere  cover  to  conceal  the  extent  of  the 
rights  actually  conceded ;  and  that  no  Governor  or 
other  official  should  ever  inquire  into  the  nature 
of  the  business  on  which  a  Consul  might  be  travel- 
ing. I  said  that  implied  that  the  Consul  would 
be  willing  to  tell  a  falsehood  when  he  wished  to 
travel  and  had  no  official  business ;  that  such  con- 
duct was  not  according  to  our  customs ;  that  a  liar 
was  looked  on  with  the  greatest  contempt ;  besides 
which,  it  was  a  sin  by  our  religion  for  a  man  to 
utter  a  falsehood. 

Finding  we  could  not  agree  at  present  on  this 
point,  I  requested  them  to  lay  it  aside  for  the  pres- 


THE  HERMITS  INSTRUCTED.  267 

ent  and  proceed  with  the  other  articles,  which  was 
agreed  to. 

Article  2  provides  that  the  President  will  act  as 
the  mediator  of  the  Japanese  when  asked  to  do  so,1 
and  that  American  men-of-war  and  consuls  should 
assist  Japanese  vessels  and  their  crews  so  far  as 
the  laws  of  neutrality  permitted. 

There  is  nothing  in  this  article  that  requires  a 
treaty  stipulation,  but  I  inserted  it  to  produce  an 
impression  on  the  government  and  people,  and  it 
had  that  effect.  This  article  was  accepted  without 
hesitation. 

Article  3,  the  Sebastopol  of  the  treaty,  was  now 
taken  up,  and  the  debate  continued  until  the  hour 
of  our  adjournment.  In  the  draft  as  proposed  by 
me,  I  claimed  Hakodate",  Shinagawa,  Osaka,  Naga- 
saki, another  port  in  Kiushiu  near  the  coal  mines, 
Hirado,  and  two  ports  on  the  west  coast  of  Nippon,2 
making  together  eight  harbors ;  and  I  also  claimed 
the  cities  of  Yedo  and  Miako  should  be  opened. 

They  went  over  the  old  ground  of  objections  so 
often  stated  before.  In  answer  I  said  that,  to  se- 
cure the  peace,  honor,  and  prosperity  of  Japan,  a 
satisfactory  treaty  must  be  made  ;  that  the  freedom 
of  trade  was  an  essential  part  of  such  a  treaty,  and 
without  harbors  it  was  absurd  to  talk  of  trade. 

1  The  mediation  of  the  United  States,  so  effective  in  the  Chino- 
Japanese  war  of  1894-95,  was  asked  for  hy  the  Chinese. 

2  Nippon  is  the  name  of  the  whole  Empire,  Hondo  of  the  main 
island. 


268  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

I  repeated  the  remark  I  had  made  to  the  Minis- 
ter of  Foreign  Affairs,  that  there  was  a  distance 
of  four  hundred  ri  on  the  west  coast  in  which  not 
a  harbor  was  opened.  The  discussion  continued 
until  dark,  when  the  Commissioners  said  that  my 
arguments  were  so  important  they  must  have  a  day 
to  take  them  into  consideration,  and  therefore  they 
could  not  meet  me  until  the  day  after  to-morrow, 
thus  making  good  what  I  have  before  noted,  that 
in  reality  I  am  negotiating  with  the  whole  govern- 
ment, and  that  the  Commissioners  can  only  repeat 
what  has  been  told  them,  and  report  what  I  say. 

The  two  Japanese  secretaries  are  constantly  em- 
ployed in  taking  down  every  word  that  is  uttered. 

Thursday,  January  28, 1858.  The  Commission- 
ers arrive  at  half  past  one  P.  M.  They  go  to  the 
Castle  in  the  Council  of  State  at  nine  A.  M.,  and 
leave  at  one,  eat  a  hasty  meal,  and  then  are  ready 
for  business.  They  opened  proceedings  by  saying 
that  half  the  daimios  were  at  Yedo,  and  the  other 
half  in  the  provinces,  and  that  when  the  half  in  the 
provinces  returned  to  Yedo,  the  other  half  went 
to  the  provinces  also ;  that  the  government  was 
compelled  to  consult  the  daimios  on  all  important 
matters,  and,  if  the  government  attempted  to  carry 
any  important  measure  against  their  advice,  it 
would  cause  "  confusion,  "  i.  e.  rebellion  ;  therefore 
the  government  must  defer  to  their  opinions.  The 
answer  of  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  on  har- 


THE  HERMITS  INSTRUCTED.  269 

bors  was  final.  No  doubt  more  will  be  opened  by 
and  by,  but  not  at  present.  The  merchants  and 
common  people  are  no  doubt  in  favor  of  opening 
the  country,  but  the  daimios  and  military  oppose  it. 

The  civilians  at  the  head  of  the  government 
understand  these  matters  better.  They  have  learned 
a  great  deal  since  you  have  been  in  the  country ; 
therefore  they  are  in  favor  of  a  treaty  which  they 
see  will  make  the  country  prosperous,  and  the 
government  rich  and  powerful. 

This  is  not  a  refusal  to  open  more  harbors,  it 
is  only  a  statement  of  the  condition  of  the  coun- 
try. Coals  have  been  discovered  within  three  ri 
of  Nagasaki,  so  that  the  other  harbor  asked  for  in 
the  island  of  Kiushiu  is  not  wanted.  The  island 
of  Hirado  is  small  and  poor,  and  only  produces 
porcelain;  therefore  a  port  in  that  island  is  not 
needed.  Miako  is  not  the  true  name  of  that  city ; 
it  is  Kioto.     The  meaning  of  Miako  is  "  capital." 

(This  is  another  instance  of  the  extraordinary 
secretiveness  of  the  Japanese  ;  for  more  than  three 
hundred  years  they  have  permitted  foreigners  to 
call  it  Miako  instead  of  Kioto ! :) 

Kioto  is  comparatively  a  poor  place ;  the  popu- 
lation, instead  of  being  five  hundred  thousand,  as 
stated  by  Kaempfer,  does  not  [number]  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  thousand.     It  is  merely  a  city  of 

1  The  term  miyako  is  a  common  noun,  meaning  simply  the  place 
where  the  Mikado  or  Emperor  lives ;  that  is,  the  capital. 


270  MB.  HABBI&S  JOUBNAL. 

priests  and  temples.  No  large  manufactures  are 
carried  on,  nor  any  lacquer  ware  made  there.  Silk 
is  not  woven  in  more  than  twenty  houses.  (They 
spoke  almost  contemptuously  of  the  Mikado,  and 
roared  with  laughter  when  I  quoted  some  remarks 
concerning  the  veneration  in  which  he  is  held  by 
the  Japanese.  They  say  that  he  has  neither  money, 
political  power,  nor  anything  else  that  is  valued  in 
Japan  ;  he  is  a  mere  cipher.) 

As  to  Shinagawa,  it  is  no  harbor,  as  no  large 
ship  can  come  within  two  and  a  half  ri  of  it.  Ka- 
nagawa  is  the  nearest  to  Yedo  of  any  harbor,  and 
that  is  already  opened  to  you.  The  Kanagawa 
post-house  is  seven  and  a  half  ri  from  the  Nippon 
Bashi.     Osaka  is  fifteen  ri  from  Kioto. 

To  my  surprise,  after  the  beginning  of  this 
speech  of  theirs,  they  wound  up  by  offering  me  the 
harbor  of  Niigata,  in  the  province  of  Echigo,  on  the 
west  coast  of  Nippon.  The  city  has  a  large  river 
running  through  it,  and  contains  sixty  thousand 
inhabitants.  On  further  inquiry  I  [learned]  that 
only  nine  feet  of  water  was  found  on  the  bar  of 
the  river,  and  from  their  charts  the  outer  harbor  is 
more  like  an  open  roadstead  than  a  harbor. 

They  assured  me  that  no  good  harbors,  like  Ha- 
kodate, Nagasaki,  and  Kanagawa,  could  be  found 
on  the  west  coast ; x  that  all  the  harbors  were  so 

1     The  best  harbor  on  the  west  coast  of  Hondo  is  Tsuruga,  in 
Echizen,  now  the  sea-terminus  of  the  railway  from  Kioto.     It  is 


THE  HERMITS  INSTRUCTED.  271 

filled  up  with  sand  that  vessels  of  large  size  could 
not  enter  them.  They  added  that,  if  a  better  har- 
bor than  Niigata  could  be  found  on  the  west  coast, 
it  should  be  given  in  exchange  for  it.  On  these 
terms  I  took  Niigata.  I  then  told  them  that  my 
way  of  doing  business  was  plain  and  straightfor- 
ward, and  to  give  them  proof  of  my  friendly  feel- 
ing and  to  facilitate  our  business,  I  would  with- 
draw the  claim  to  Hirado,  one  harbor  on  the  west 
coast,  another  in  Kiushiu,  making  three  harbors 
withdrawn. 

That,  to  give  ample  time  to  prepare  for  these 
changes,  I  would  fix  the  opening  of  the  various 
places  as  follows  :  Yedo  to  be  opened  January  1, 
1863    (with  Shinagawa)  ;    Osaka,  July  4,  1861 
Niigata,  July  4,  1860 ;  Kanagawa,  July  4,  1859 
and  Shimoda   should  be  closed  January  1,  1860 
Nagasaki  to  be  opened  July  4,  1859. 

In  answer  to  their  often-repeated  assertion  that 
all  these  places  would  be  opened  "  by  and  by," 
I  replied  that  between  nations  verbal  assurances 
had  no  value ;  that  it  was  written  stipulations 
alone  that  were  considered  as  of  any  value ;  that 
a  written  promise  to  open  a  harbor  in  four  years 
would  be  far  more  satisfactory  than  a  verbal  prom- 
ise to  open  it  in  two  years. 

The  Commissioners  said  they  did  not  see   how 

the  seaport  of  the  city  of  Fukui,  and  has  a  population  of  twelve 
thousand.     M.  E.  pp.  418,  419. 


272  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

the  difficulties  to  Yedo  and  Osaka  could  be  over- 
come ;  they  thought  it  impossible  ;  they  therefore 
required  a  day  to  think  of  it,  and  would  meet  me 
on  Saturday. 

Saturday,  January  30,  1858.  Meet  at  the  usual 
hour.  They  promptly  offer  to  open  Yedo  and 
Shinagawa,  but  the  Americans  to  reside  at  Kana- 
gawa  and  Yokohama  ;  the  Americans  only  to  pur- 
chase articles  in  a  small  way  at  Yedo.  They  have 
a  class  of  large  merchants  called  Toyas,  who  keep 
immense  establishments,  and  are  ready  to  buy  any- 
thing and  to  any  amount.  These  merchants  will 
open  establishments  at  Kanagawa  where  the  Ameri- 
cans can  buy  and  sell  what  they  desire.  They  have 
entered  into  a  long  argument  showing  that  the  res- 
idence of  Americans  in  Yedo  for  the  purpose  of 
trade  was  unnecessary  ;  and  then  to  my  great  sur- 
prise they  added  that  the  American  may  buy  where 
he  can  best  suit  himself  as  to  quality  and  price, 
and  sell  to  whom  he  pleases  without  the  interven- 
tion of  any  government  officer.  This  is  a  complete 
abandonment  of  the  leading  principle  of  the  Dutch 
and  Russian  treaties,  and  is  one  of  the  chief  points 
which  I  have  so  long  contended  for. 

I  now  entered  into  arguments  tending  to  show 
that  to  expect  Americans  to  go  to  Yedo  from  Ka- 
nagawa and  to  return  the  same  day  (thirty-seven 
and  a  half  miles),  and  to  do  business  in  Yedo,  was 
a  physical  impossibility  ;    that   such  a  regulation 


THE  HERMITS  INSTRUCTED.  213 

would  prevent  their  selling  anything  in  Yedo ; 
that  to  limit  their  sales  to  the  Toyas  was  in  fact 
creating  a  monopoly  in  favor  of  that  class ;  that 
every  person  of  rank  and  wealth  resided  a  part  of 
every  year  in  Yedo,  while  the  families  of  all  these 
classes  resided  there  ;  that  the  quantity  of  foreign 
articles  sold  at  Yedo  alone  would,  at  the  beginning 
of  the  trade,  be  more  than  [in]  all  the  rest  of  the 
Empire ;  that  most  of  the  articles  were  not  even 
known  by  name  to  the  Japanese ;  that  they  must 
first  see  them,  learn  their  use,  etc.,  and,  after  one 
person  had  purchased  a  thing,  it  would  be  the 
means  of  inducing  others  to  buy  the  same  article  ; 
that  to  do  this  the  Americans  must  bring  their 
goods  to  Yedo  to  show  them,  and  this  of  course 
involved  the  necessity  of  their  having  their  ware- 
houses and  residences  in  Yedo ;  that  it  was  idle  to 
think  of  trying  the  experiment  of  free  trade,  so 
long  as  the  Americans  were  excluded  from  Yedo 
and  Osaka,  two  of  the  greatest  cities  of  the  Em- 
pire, etc.  I  offered  to  withdraw  Shinagawa  as  a 
port,  and  that  American  ships  should  not  go  above 
the  harbor  of  Kanagawa ;  but  for  this  I  must  have 
Yedo  and  Osaka  open  for  trade. 

Monday,  February  1,  1858.  Meet  the  Commis- 
sioners at  the  usual  hour.  They  open  business  by 
the  following  proposition :  "  The  permanent  resi- 
dence of  Americans  shall  be  at  Kanagawa ;  and 
after  1st  January,  1863,  one  street  shall  be  opened 


274  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

in  Yedo  for  the  temporary  residence  of  Americans 
to  buy  and  sell."  Nearly  three  hours  were  occu- 
pied in  making  and  discussing  various  propositions 
regarding  Yedo,  the  Japanese  making  strenuous 
resistance  to  any  concessions  beyond  the  above. 
I  finally  made  them  the  following  proposition  :  — 

"  On  the  1st  [of]  January,  1863,  the  city  of 
Yedo  shall  be  opened  to  Americans  for  the  pur- 
poses of  business  ;  the  place  they  shall  occupy  for 
their  business  shall  be  settled  by  the  American 
diplomatic  agent  and  the  government  of  Japan." 
The  Japanese  take  until  to-morrow  to  consider 
this  proposition. 

Tuesday,  February  2.  Meet  at  the  usual  hour. 
The  Commissioners  object  to  the  word  "  business," 
and  wish  the  word  "trade  "  inserted  in  lieu  of  it. 
As  this,  in  its  literal  sense,  would  deprive  the 
American  of  cook,  clerk,  medical  aid,  and  in  fact 
of  all  assistance,  I  objected  to  it ;  at  the  same  time 
I  told  them  the  word  used  by  me  would  not  justify 
the  residence  in  Yedo  of  any  persons  who  were  not 
either  directly  engaged  in  trade,  or  in  the  employ 
of  such  persons.  After  a  vain  attempt  to  come  to 
an  understanding,  I  propose  to  lay  Yedo  aside  for 
the  present  and  to  take  up  Kioto  and  Osaka. 
They  produce  a  map  of  Kioto  (the  map  in  Kaemp- 
fer  is  an  exact  copy). 

The  Commissioners  said  that  there  were  insur- 
mountable objections  to  opening  Kioto  to  the  Amer- 


THE  HEBMITS  INSTRUCTED.  275 

icans  as  a  place  of  residence,  which  were  connected 
with  their  religion  ;  that,  if  it  were  only  extremely 
difficult,  they  would  say  so,  but  in  reality  what 
I  asked  was  impossible ;  that  it  was  no  place  of 
business,  as  the  American  Minister  could  satisfy 
himself  whenever  he  should  visit  the  city ;  to 
attempt  to  open  the  place  for  the  permanent  resi- 
dence of  foreigners  would  excite  a  rebellion  ;  that 
they  were  sure,  when  I  reported  this  to  the  Presi- 
dent, that  he  was  too  good  a  friend  to  Japan  to 
insist  on  a  thing  which  was  of  no  real  value,  and 
would  at  the  same  time  introduce  anarchy  and 
bloodshed  into  Japan.  They  made  the  most  solemn 
asseverations  that  what  they  said  was  true. 

They  then  offered  to  open  Sakai,  a  town  contain- 
ing one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  souls,  situated 
on  the  Bay  of  Settsu,  and  distant  by  land  only 
three  ri  from  Osaka,  the  second  city  of  the  Empire. 
Osaka  lies  on  a  river,  and  by  that  route  it  is  five 
ri  from  the  bay.  Ships  going  to  Sakai  or  Osaka 
anchor  nearly  at  the  same  spot ;  but,  owing  to 
shoals  or  mud -banks,  ships  like  the  Americans' 
cannot  come  nearer  than  one  and  a  half  ri  to  Sa- 
kai, or  two  ri  of  the  mouth  of  the  river  leading  up 
to  Osaka.  Osaka  has  never  been  opened  to  for- 
eigners as  a  residence,  and  its  proximhty  to  Kioto 
renders  the  opening  of  it  to  them  very  objection- 
able to  the  Japanese.  If  I  do  not  like  Sakai,  they 
offer  me  Hiogo  on  the  same  bay,  and  lying  ten  ri  to 


276  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

the  westward  of  Osaka  River ;  it  is  about  the  same 
size  as  Sakai,  but  it  has  a  bold  shore  and  a  good 
artificial  harbor,  built  many  hundreds  of  years  ago 
at  a  vast  expense. 

I  insisted  on  having  Osaka  opened  for  the  per- 
manent residence  of  Americans.  A  long  time  was 
passed  in  debating  a  proposition  of  theirs  that 
Americans  should  reside  at  Sakai,  but  have  the 
right  to  visit  Osaka,  to  buy  and  sell  there,  and  to 
rent  houses  for  that  purpose,  etc.,  but  not  to  sleep 
in  Osaka.  I  strongly  insisted  on  the  unfriendly 
and  inhospitable  appearance  such  an  article  would 
bear,  and  told  them  I  could  not  understand  why 
they  should  have  greater  objections  to  opening 
Osaka  than  they  had  to  opening  Yedo.  I  said  that 
difficulties  would  constantly  arise  under  such  an 
arrangement,  and  gave  as  an  illustration  that,  sup- 
pose an  American  late  in  the  day  should  be  taken 
suddenly  and  violently  ill,  and  quite  unable  to 
return  to  Sakai,  the  authorities  of  Osaka,  acting 
under  stringent  orders,  would  place  the  sick  man 
in  a  norimono  and  send  him  off  to  Sakai.  On  the 
road  the  man  dies ;  the  Americans,  indignant  at 
such  inhumanity,  would  make  a  very  strong  and 
possibly  exaggerated  statement  of  the  transaction  ; 
this  would  be  sent  to  the  Minister,  and  copies  to 
the  United  States  ;  a  very  serious  difficulty  might 
thus  arise  between  the  two  nations.  As  to  the 
vicinity  to  Kioto,  I  was  willing  to  let  the  lines  run 


THE  HERMITS  INSTRUCTED.  277 

at  the  full  distance  from  that  city,  so  that  difficulty 
was  imaginary. 

I  also  told  them  to  remember  that  the  seventh 
article  of  the  treaty  claimed  for  every  well-con- 
ducted American  who  had  resided  one  year  in  Japan 
the  right  to  travel  as  freely  as  the  Japanese.  The 
Commissioners  told  me  that  the  seventh  article  and 
the  opening  of  Kioto  were  two  impossibilities ;  that 
they  could  not  be  granted  without  producing  re- 
bellion. Many  other  propositions  of  the  treaty 
were  excessively  difficult,  but  still  might  be  carried 
into  effect,  but  the  two  points  were  absolutely 
impossible,  and  here  they  made  a  very  sensible 
remark :  they  said,  if  foreign  nations  would  go  to 
war  with  them  on  account  of  those  two  points,  they 
must  make  the  best  they  could  of  the  calamity; 
but  under  no  circumstances  was  war  from  abroad 
so  much  to  be  feared  as  intestine  commotion. 

Lamps  had  been  introduced  by  me,  and  as  we 
had  been  steadily  at  work,  the  Commissioners  told 
me  I  had  fairly  beaten  them  out  in  my  powers 
of  endurance,  and  they  must  therefore  beg  to  be 
excused  for  the  evening.  I  urged  them  to  reflect 
seriously  on  what  I  had  laid  before  them,  remark- 
ing that  the  present  was  the  turning-point  of  the 
treaty,  and  that  one  false  step  might  utterly  de- 
stroy our  labors.     No>  meeting  to-morrow. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

THE   STRUGGLE   FOR  THE   OPENING   OF  THE  PORTS. 

Wednesday,  February  3,  1858.  This  morning, 
at  an  early  hour,  the  Prince  of  Shinano  called  to 
have  some  private  conversation.  He  said  there 
was  an  intense  excitement  among  the  old  party  at 
the  Castle ;  that  the  concessions  already  made  had 
greatly  exasperated  them,  and  he  feared,  if  I  per- 
sisted in  insisting  on  Kioto  being  opened,  and  on 
the  right  of  the  Americans  to  travel  in  the  coun- 
try, I  should  run  a  great  risk  of  losing  the  whole 
treaty ;  that  what  had  already  been  conceded  ex- 
cited his  wonder,  for  when  I  arrived  at  Yedo  he 
did  not  dream  that  I  could  use  any  arguments 
that  would  secure  so  much.  He  said,  "  Better  secure 
what  you  have  obtained  than  wish  for  the  attainment 
of  what  is  of  little  or  no  value,  even  if  you  do  get 
it."  He  said  that  if  we  would  be  patient,  and  let  the 
present  treaty  work  its  work  quietly  among  the  peo- 
ple, he  had  no  doubt  the  two  disputed  points  would 
be  granted  without  difficulty  by  the  time  named 
for  the  opening  of  Yedo ;  that  the  two  points  were 
not  refused  by  the  government,  but  merely  post- 
poned to  await   a   favorable  period  for  carrying 


THE  OPENING  OF  THE  PORTS.  279 

them  into  effect.  He  closed  by  saying  that  he  was 
very  unhappy,  and  implored  me  to  consider  the 
wisdom  of  following  his  advice. 

I  gave  him  to  understand  that,  if  all  the  other 
parts  of  the  treaty  were  arranged  to  my  satisfac- 
tion, I  should  try  to  suit  them  on  the  two  points. 

Meet  at  eleven  a.  m.  A  long  debate  on  the  seventh 
article.  At  last  I  offer  to  withdraw  the  objection- 
able clause  provided  they  would  open  Osaka  as  a 
place  for  the  permanent  residence  of  Americans. 
I  also  offered  to  limit  the  boundaries  at  Osaka  in 
the  direction  of  Kioto  to  two  ri. 

The  Commissioners  inform  me  that  my  request 
to  have  a  salute  fired  in  honor  of  the  birthday  of 
Washington  had  been  acceded  to,  and  that  I  should 
be  conducted  to  the  battery  on  the  22d  inst.,  when 
a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns  should  be  fired. 

They  added  that  Commodore  Perry  had  made 
them  a  present  of  a  brass  howitzer  gun  ;  that  they 
had  made  many  after  that  model;  and  that  the 
salute  should  be  fired  from  their  copies  of  the 
American  gun. 

Meet  again  at  two  P.  M.,  and  take  up  the  articles 
seriatim;  3  and  4  accepted.  Article  5  relates  to 
the  currency,  and  contained  a  clause  giving  the 
Japanese  government  an  agio  of  six  per  cent,  on 
all  foreign  coin  paid  to  them,  and  prohibited  the 
exportation  of  Japanese  coin.  To  my  utter  aston- 
ishment they  gave  up  the  six  per  cent.,  and  per- 


280  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

mitted  the  free  exportation  of  their  coin ! !  and 
also  declared  that  all  foreign  coins  should  pass 
freely  in  Japan.     They  did  astonish  me. 

Wednesday,  February  4,  1858.  Article  4  gives 
to  the  United  States  government  [the  right]  to 
land,  free  of  duty,  stores  for  the  use  of  its  fleet  at 
Kanagawa,  Hakodate",  and  Nagasaki.  By  this  I 
have  secured  the  choice  of  three  good  harbors  for 
our  naval  depot  in  the  East,  in  a  country  that  has 
the  most  salubrious  climate  in  the  world,  where  the 
men  cannot  desert,  and  with  a  power  that  is  suffi- 
ciently civilized  to  respect  our  rights ;  and,  above 
all,  not  a  power  with  whom  we  might  have  a 
rupture,  like  England.  I  consider  this  clause  of 
immense  importance,  as  now  the  depot  can  be  re- 
moved from  that  wretched  place,  Hong-Kong,  and 
the  stores  out  of  the  power  of  England.  We  fin- 
ished our  day's  work  with  article  5,  and  adjourned 
until  the  6th  inst. 

Saturday,  February  6,  1858.  We  take  up  arti- 
cle 3.  To  my  surprise,  they  proposed  to  build  a 
lazaretto  outside  the  walls  of  Osaka  for  the  use  of 
any  Americans  that  might  suddenly  be  taken  sick 
while  on  a  visit  to  Osaka  from  Sakai,  and  still  ex- 
cluded Americans  from  a  residence  in  the  city. 
I  was  indignant.  I  have  noted  the  terms  on  which 
I  agreed  to  withdraw  the  two  difficulties  in  the 
way  of  the  treaty,  and  it  was  fully  understood  that 
was  the  basis  on  which  the  matter  was  to  be  ar- 


THE  OPENING   OF  THE  POETS.  281 

ranged.  I  told  them  that  their  proposition  was  so 
very  offensive  that  I  would  not  consent  to  have  it 
again  interpreted  to  me.  I  taxed  them  roundly 
with  bad  faith,  and  gave  them  notice  that  I  re- 
newed the  clause  in  article  7  (right  to  travel), 
and  also  the  claim  for  Kioto.  The  Commissioners 
stammered  and  boggled  for  some  time,  partially 
admitting  that  the  proposal  was  none  of  their 
making,  and  that  they  would  consult  over  it 
(i.  e.  report  its  rejection  at  the  Castle)  ;  they 
then  proposed  to  take  up  the  articles  of  the 
treaty. 

Article  6  agreed  to. 

Article  7  postponed  until  article  3  is  settled. 

Articles  3  to  15,  inclusive,  all  agreed  to,  with 
some  slight  verbal  alterations  not  calling  for  any 
remark. 

Article  16.  The  family  name  of  the  Tai-kun 
is  Minamoto1  Iyesada.  The  article  provides  for 
the  exchange  of  ratifications,  and  they  proposed, 
if  I  were  willing,  to  send  an  ambassador  in  their 
steamer  to  Washington  via  California  for  that 
purpose !  I  told  them  nothing  could  possibly 
give  me  greater  pleasure ;  that,  as  the  United 
States  was  the  first  Power  that  Japan  ever  made  a 

1  All  the  Shoguns,  from  the  first  Minamoto  Yoritomo,  have 
been  of  Minamoto  name  or  stock.  Iyesada  took  the  first  sylla- 
ble of  his  name  from  the  founder  of  the  Tokugawa  dynasty, 
ly^yasti  (1542-1616),  who  was  made  Shogun  in  1603. 


282  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

treaty  with,  I  should  be  much  pleased  that  the  first 
Japanese  Ambassador  should  be  sent  to  the  United 
States.  The  article  was  accordingly  altered,  and 
also  amended  so  as  to  make  the  treaty  go  into 
effect  if,  from  any  unforeseen  accident,  the  ratifica- 
tions should  not  be  exchanged  by  that  time.  The 
regulations  of  trade,  except  the  tariff,  were  infor- 
mally accepted.  I  gave  them  notice  that  I  wished 
to  introduce  a  clause  giving  the  right  to  American 
ships  to  employ  Japanese  as  seamen  on  board 
American  ships,  giving  bonds  to  return  the  men  to 
Japan  within  three  years,  except  in  cases  of  death 
or  desertion.  The  Commissioners  agree  to  meet 
me  on  Monday  at  eight  A.  m.,  and  to  work  the 
whole  day.     Adjourn  at  seven  P.  M. 

Monday,  February  8,  1858.  Meet,  according  to 
agreement,  at  eight  A.  M.  The  Commissioners 
propose  various  articles  on  the  subject  of  Osaka, 
and  at  last  the  following  is  agreed  on :  "  On  the 
1st  of  January,  1863,  the  city  of  Yedo,  and  on  the 
day  of  ,18  ,x  the  city  of  Osaka,  shall  be 
opened  to  Americans  for  residence  and  trade.  The 
special  place  within  which  they  may  hire  houses  in 
each  of  these  two  cities,  and  the  distance  they  may 
walk,  shall  be  settled  by  the  American  diplomatic 
agent  and  the  government  of  Japan."  The  Jap- 
anese showed  me  maps  of  Sakai  and  Osaka. 

1  The  blanks  are  in  the  MS.  record.     Osaka  was  not  opened 
until  January  1,  1868. 


THE  OPENING   OF  THE  POETS.  283 

Sakai  produces  twenty-two  articles,  among  which 
are  metal  work,  silk  stuff,  arms,  rattan  work,  etc., 
etc. 

I  inform  them  [that]  I  wish  both  Sakai  and 
Hiogo,  the  latter  for  its  good  harbor,  and  the 
former  from  its  proximity  to  Osaka.  They  posi- 
tively refuse  both  places.  I  then  claim  Hiogo, 
according  to  their  original  offer  to  me  of  either. 
They  reply  that  [  that]  offer  was  made  by  them  in 
lieu  of  Osaka,  and  that  I  did  not  include  Sakai  or 
Hiogo  in  my  original  draft.  After  much  debate, 
I  tell  them  I  shall  withdraw  the  claim,  as  they  will 
be  quite  willing  to  open  Hiogo  by  the  time  Osaka 
is  opened.  We  at  last  fix  the  dates  on  which  the 
various  places  shall  be  opened  :  — 

Kanagawa,  July  4,  1859. 

Nagasaki  the  same. 

Niigata,  January  1,  1860. 

Yedo,  January  1,  1862. 

Sakai,  January  1,  1863. 

Osaka,  January  1,  1863. 

Adjourned  at  one  p.  M.  for  their  dinner,  and  meet 
again  at  two  p.  M.  The  whole  of  this  [afternoon] 
was  spent  in  a  vain  attempt  to  fix  the  boundaries  of 
the  various  places.  They  were  so  unreasonable  and 
so  inconsistent  that  I  could  not  help  suspecting  the 
champagne  which  I  sent  to  them  had  not  operated 
favorably.  Adjourned  at  five  P.  M.  to  meet  to- 
morrow at  eight  a.  m. 


284  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

Tuesday,  February  9,  1858.  Meet  at  nine  A.  M. 
Take  up  articles  regulating  trade.  In  the  treaty 
with  the  Russians,  the  regulations  were  imperfect 
and  oppressive.  Fines  of  the  most  outrageous 
character  were  imposed,  and  ship  and  cargo  both 
were  confiscated  for  light  offenses,  and  the  inno- 
cent were  thus  punished  for  offenses  in  which  they 
neither  participated,  nor  had  any  knowledge  of,  or 
power  of  preventing.  I  pointed  out  the  injustice 
of  such  laws  to  the  Commissioners,  and  they  ad- 
mitted the  force  of  my  objections.  They  said  they 
were  entirely  in  the  dark  on  the  subject,  not  hav- 
ing any  experience  to  guide  them. 

They  said  I  had  evidently  taken  much  pains  in 
drawing  up  the  new  code  now  before  them,  that 
they  thanked  me  for  my  kindness,  and,  as  they  had 
perfect  confidence  in  my  integrity,  they  would  ac- 
cept it. 

They  then  examined  the  figures  of  some  fines 
that  had  been  changed,  at  their  request,  from 
kobangs  to  dollars ,  and  found  them  all  right.  I 
now  took  up  the  tariff. 

I  began  by  stating  the  objections  to  all  tonnage 
dues,  and  showed  that  they  only  served  to  check 
commerce,  were  unequal  in  their  operation,  and 
injurious  to  revenue. 

I  then  stated  the  objections  to  export  duties, 
saying  that  it  was  a  burden  on  the  industry  of 
their  own  people,  was  vexatious  to  the  merchant, 


THE  OPENING   OF  THE  POETS.  285 

led  to  great  expense  to  prevent  smuggling,  and  was 
not  of  much  benefit  to  the  revenue.  I  then  quoted 
the  example  of  England  and  the  United  States, 
two  of  the  greatest  commercial  nations  in  the 
world,  neither  of  which  levied  tonnage  dues  or 
export  duties.  I  closed  by  saying  that  commerce 
could  bear  a  certain  burden  and  no  more,  and, 
whether  that  was  collected  under  one  or  three 
forms,  only  a  certain  tax  could  be  paid ;  and  con- 
cluded this  branch  by  urging  the  simplicity  and 
economy  of  collecting  their  revenue  from  imports 
alone.  I  then  took  up  the  tariff  and  explained  the 
various  classes,  and  my  reasons  for  making  differ- 
ent rates  of  duties,  etc.,  etc.  They  say  the  tariff 
is  out  of  their  province,  and  must  be  submitted  to 
the  Chamber  of  Accounts.  They  also  inform  me 
that  the  14th  instant  is  their  New  Year,  and  they 
cannot  meet  me  again  before  the  17th ;  that  they 
usually  take  seven  days  for  these  holidays,  but  on 
account  of  my  long  detention  here  they  will  only 
take  three. 

It  was  agreed  that  clean  copies  of  the  treaty 
should  in  the  interim  be  drawn  out,  and  the  amend- 
ments and  alterations  translated  into  Japanese. 

Friday,  February  12,  1858.  The  Prince  of  Shi- 
nano  visited  me  to-day.  He  said  they  were  all 
very  busy  in  preparing  their  annual  reports  for  the 
close  of  the  year,  but  that  he  would  pay  me  a  short 
private  visit. 


286  MB.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

He  soon  after  introduced  the  boundaries  of  the 
opened  places,  and  the  right  of  consuls  to  travel  in 
the  country,  and,  from  his  frequent  mention  of  the 
daimios,  I  am  prepared  to  have  difficulties  with 
them  on  these  subjects. 

Saturday,  February  13.  Busy  in  writing.  I 
find  I  have  omitted  any  notice  of  the  "  Ro-nin " 
since  the  25th  of  January.  On  that  and  the  fol- 
lowing night  I  was  much  annoyed  by  the  noise 
kept  up  by  the  "grand  rounds"  who  patrolled 
every  half  hour.  As  soon  as  the  point  of  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Minister  in  Yedo  was  settled,  the 
rounds  and  noise  ceased.  This  adds  to  the  belief 
always  held  by  me  that  the  whole  matter  was  a 
mere  "  Arrowsmith  "  got  up  to  frighten  me,  and, 
failing  of  its  purpose,  it  was  then  abandoned. 

Sunday,  February  14,  1858.  Japanese  New 
Year's  Day.  The  streets  are  filled  with  the  long 
trains  of  the  daimios  and  nobles  going  to  the  Cas- 
tle to  pay  their  compliments  and  carry  presents. 
This  reminds  me  of  the  New  Year's  festivities  in 
New  York. 

Monday,  February  15.  The  Tai-kun  sends  pres- 
ents of  boiled  cakes  on  New  Year's  Day  to  all 
those  he  wishes  to  honor ;  but  hearing  I  did  not  eat 
those  cakes,  he  sent  me  a  large  basket  of  oranges 
from  Kiishiu.1     The  present  came  yesterday,  but  I 

1  Kiishiu,  or  the  province  of  Kii,  is  the  great  orange  orchard 
of  the  Empire. 


THE  OPENING  OF  THE  POETS.  287 

declined  receiving  it  on  that  day,  it  being  Sunday, 
and  I  was  glad  of  an  opportunity  of  showing  the 
Japanese  that  not  even  for  the  Tai-kun  would  I 
alter  my  strict  rule  for  that  day.  I  receive  pres- 
ents of  fans  from  Higo  no  Kami  and  others. 

Ash  Wednesday,  February  17.  The  Commis- 
sioners, instead  of  meeting  at  noon,  as  they  had 
appointed,  did  not  arrive  until  near  five  P.  M. 
They  commenced  by  giving  a  history  of  my  negoti- 
ations from  the  day  of  my  audience  up  to  the  9th 
instant,  repeating  many  parts  three  or  four  times, 
and  constantly  referring  to  the  daimios,  and  their 
opposition  to  any  change  in  the  ancient  customs  of 
the  land  by  permitting  the  residence  of  foreigners 
in  Japan,  etc. ;  this  lasted  for  more  than  an  hour 
without  their  giving  me  any  information  as  to 
what  they  desired.  I  plainly  saw  there  was  a  hitch 
somewhere. 

They  then  proceeded  to  say  that  on  the  11th  in- 
stant the  treaty  as  it  then  stood  had  been  submit- 
ted to  the  daimios,  and  instantly  the  whole  Castle 
was  in  an  uproar;  some  of  the  most  violent  de- 
clared that  they  should  sacrifice  their  lives  before 
they  would  permit  such  great  changes  to  be  made ; 
the  Council  of  State  had  labored  incessantly  to 
enlighten  these  men,  —  had  pointed  out  to  them  not 
only  the  policy  but  necessity  there  was  to  make 
the  treaty,  if  they  would  avert  the  ruin  of  the  king- 
dom, etc. ;  they  had  brought  over  some,  but  others 


288  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

still  remained  obstinate  ;  that  the  government  could 
not  at  once  sign  such  a  treaty  except  at  the  ex- 
pense of  bloodshed ;  that  they  were  sure  the  Presi- 
dent did  not  wish  to  bring  any  such  evil  on  Japan. 

I  at  last  discovered  that  they  wished  to  delay 
the  signing  of  the  treaty  until  a  member  of  the 
Council  of  State  could  proceed  as  "Ambassador 
to  the  Spiritual  Emperor  "  at  Kioto  and  get  his 
approval ;  that  the  moment  that  approval  was  re- 
ceived, the  daimios  must  withdraw  their  opposition  ; 
that  they  were  content  to  take  the  treaty  substan- 
tially as  it  stood,  having  only  some  slight  verbal 
alterations  to  suggest,  and  solemnly  pledged  their 
faith  that  the  treaty  should  be  executed  as  soon  as 
the  ambassador  returned  from  Miako,  which  would 
require  about  two  months. 

Having  concluded  this  extraordinary  conversa- 
tion, I  asked  them  what  they  would  do  if  the  Mi- 
kado refused  his  assent.  They  replied,  in  a  prompt 
and  decided  manner,  that  the  government  had 
determined  not  to  receive  any  objections  from  the 
Mikado. 

I  asked  what  is  the  use,  then,  of  delaying  the 
treaty  for  what  appears  to  be  a  mere  ceremony. 
They  replied  that  it  was  this  solemn  ceremony 
that  gave  value  to  it ;  and,  as  I  understood,  that 
being  known  that  the  Mikado  [had  been]  thus 
gravely  appealed  to,  his  decision  would  be  final, 
and  that  all  excitement  would  subside  at  once. 


THE  OPENING   OF  THE  PORTS.  289 

They  proposed  that  we  should  go  on  with  the 
treaty  until  it  was  completed  and  engrossed  ;  that 
I  should  amuse  myself  by  going  about,  and,  if  I 
wished  to  make  a  trip  to  Shimoda,  the  government 
would  send  me  down  and  bring  me  back  in  their 
steamer.  In  answer  I  said  that  what  they  had 
told  me  was  unprecedented  in  the  history  of  nego- 
tiations ;  that  it  was  much  like  the  acts  of  children, 
and  unworthy  of  wise  statesmen  like  those  who 
ruled  Japan  ;  and  that  it  was  trifling  with  a  seri- 
ous matter ;  that  it  would  be  sure  to  give  the  Presi- 
dent great  concern  ;  that  it  would  have  been  far 
better  not  to  have  negotiated  with  me  at  all  than 
to  refuse  to  sign  a  treaty,  which  had  cost  so  much 
labor,  for  so  very  trifling  a  reason,  etc. 

I  added  that  the  mere  act  of  signing  the  treaty 
might  be  kept  as  secret  as  they  chose,  as  I  should 
not  divulge  it  in  Japan.  They  replied  that  it  was 
impossible  to  keep  anything  secret  that  passed  be- 
tween us  (and  I  have  no  doubt  they  spoke  truly)  ; 
that  they  were  acting  in  good  faith,  and  I  might 
rely  that  the  treaty  should  be  executed.  I  finally 
told  them  that  I  had  no  power  to  compel  them  to 
execute  the  treaty,  that  I  could  not  then  give  them 
an  answer  to  their  proposition,  but  I  proposed  to 
put  that  matter  aside  for  the  present  and  proceed 
to  complete  the  treaty,  but  they  must  clearly  under- 
stand that  I  did  not  agree  to  accept  the  delay 
asked  for. 


290  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

This  was  agreed  to,  and  they  opened  the  treaty 
with  the  first  article,  over  which  they  wasted  time 
(and  with  an  evident  intent  to  do  so)  until  eight 
o'clock,  when  they  said  they  were  weary,  and 
begged  to  adjourn  until  day  after  to-morrow. 

Their  plan  evidently  is,  to  spin  out  the  time, 
until  I  either  assent  to  their  wish,  or  the  ambassa- 
dor has  returned  from  Yedo. 

I  have  before  noted  that  they  had  agreed  to  fire 
a  salute  on  Washington's  birthday.  They  now  in- 
formed me  the  salute  would  be  fired  between  Shi- 
nagawa  and  Kawasaki,  some  eight  miles  from  my 
residence,  adding  that  was  the  nearest  place  where 
cannon  could  be  fired.  In  answer  I  said  I  could 
not  go  so  far  as  that ;  that,  if  they  had  any  objec- 
tions to  firing  the  salute,  I  would  withdraw  my 
request;  that  a  salute  under  such  circumstances 
would  be  anything  but  an  honor  ;  that  I  had  heard 
howitzers  fired  every  week  since  I  had  been  in 
Yedo ;  that  I  was  so  accustomed  to  such  sounds 
that  I  could  very  well  judge  of  the  distance ;  and 
that  the  firing  had  frequently  been  within  sixteen 
streets  of  my  residence,  one  mile.  They  said  that 
must  have  been  the  guns  of  the  daimios.  They 
then  said  they  could  themselves  fire  the  salute.  I 
replied  they  of  course  could  fire  when  they  pleased, 
but  I  should  not  consider  it  as  being  fired  in  honor 
of  the  day.  They  then  proposed  that  Mr.  Heus- 
ken  should  ride  to  the  place.     I  answered  that  he 


THE  OPENING   OF  THE  POETS.  291 

was  not  the  representative  of  the  United  States. 
They  said  the  discount  of  six  per  cent,  was  to  be 
paid  by  me  until  the  new  treaty  went  into  effect. 

Thursday,  February  18,  1858.  I  have  no  entries 
in  my  journal  of  my  having  gone  out  of  my  house 
for  any  purpose,  except  on  official  business,  since 
December  17,  1857.  In  fact  I  have  not  gone  out 
of  the  inclosure  of  the  premises  but  once  since  that 
date,  and  that  was  on  the  occasion  of  my  visit  to 
the  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  on  the  16th  of  last 
month.  My  reasons  for  this  seclusion  have  been 
twofold. 

I  have  frequently  referred  to  the  fact  that  the 
Japanese  connect  the  idea  of  seclusion  with  high 
rank,  and  that  the  one  is  the  measure  of  the  other. 
The  government  had  proclaimed  me  to  be,  from 
my  official  position,  a  person  of  exalted  rank,  as 
they  termed  it,  and  caused  all  the  ceremonies  of 
my  journey  from  Shimoda  here  to  correspond  with 
that  idea.  I  felt  that  my  influence  with  this  sin- 
gular people  greatly  depended  on  my  maintaining 
that  opinion. 

I  also  knew  that  a  large  majority  of  the  daimios 
were  violently  opposed  to  the  object  of  my  mission, 
and  that  some  were  exceedingly  violent.  I  appre- 
hended that,  were  I  to  go  out  frequently  for  rec- 
reation, I  should  meet  the  trains  of  some  of  these 
persons,  and  that  difficulties  might  arise  from 
their  claiming  from  me  some  acknowledgment  of 


292  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

their  rank  that  I  might  not  be  willing  to  concede  ; 
or  that,  from  my  ignorance  of  their  complicated 
etiquette,  I  might  unwittingly  give  umbrage  that 
might  create  much  angry  feeling  among  this  class, 
who,  from  an  esprit  du  corps,  would  embrace  the 
cause  of  their  brother  daimios,  whom,  they  might 
suppose,  I  had  wantonly  insulted,  thereby  creating 
difficulties  to  the  object  of  my  mission,  give  power 
to  the  opposition,  and  embarrass  the  government  of 
Japan.  I  have  taken  exercise  by  walking  some 
miles  every  day  in  the  court  on  which  my  rooms 
open.  I  walk  from  three  to  eight  miles  per  diem, 
yet  my  health  has  sensibly  suffered  and  I  am  be- 
come exceedingly  thin.  I  also  feel  the  want  of 
food  properly  prepared,  as  my  Japanese  cook  is 
extremely  deficient  in  many  points. 

The  Prince  of  Shinano  visited  me  to-day,  and  we 
had  a  long  talk  over  business.  He  says  that  I  may 
rely  that  the  government  is  acting  in  good  faith, 
and  is  anxious  to  make  a  treaty  with  me ;  that 
the  mission  to  Miako  will  be  successful  in  obtain- 
ing the  assent  of  the  Mikado  ;  and  that,  when  that 
assent  is  promulgated,  the  opposition  of  the  daimios 
will  instantly  cease.  The  prince  informed  me  that, 
of  the  eighteen  great  daimios,  four  were  in  favor 
and  fourteen  opposed  to  the  treaty ;  that,  of  the 
three  hundred  daimios  created  by  Iyeyasu,1  thirty 

1  The  Japan  of  Tokugawa  days  (1614-1868,  or  from  the  cap- 
ture of  the  Castle  of  Osaka  by  Iyeyasu  to  the  seizure  of  the  Impe- 


THE  OPENING   OF  THE  PORTS.  293 

out  of  every  hundred  were  in  favor,  and  the  re- 
mainder opposed;  that  the  government  was  con- 
rial  palace  and  person  in  Kioto  by  the  coalition  of  progressive 
clans)  was  one  of  the  most  curious  composites  of  feudalism  in  the 
much-feudalized  Old  World.  When,  in  1192  and  later,  the  mili- 
tary classes  dispossessed  the  kuge\  or  court  nobles,  of  their  land, 
offices,  and  titles,  in  whole  or  in  part,  the  clan-leaders  or  daimios 
made  the  courtly  titles  their  own,  whether  these  titles  had  any 
real  significance  or  not.  Usually  the  daimios  who  had  the  ancient 
court  titles  (sixty  or  more  in  number  in  Mr.  Harris's  time),  such  as 
"  no  Kami,"  "  Taiyu,"  "  Daibu,"  etc.,  after  their  names  and  terri- 
torial titles,  had  no  actual  duties  corresponding  to  these  empty 
sounds.  According  to  the  Yedo  Manual,  the  number  of  daimios 
"  created  by  Iy^yasu,"  as  Mr.  Harris  says,  was  two  hundred  and 
sixty-five,  of  whom  eighteen  were  province  lords,  independent  in 
domestic  matters  of  the  Tycoon,  or  overlord  in  Yedo ;  thirty-two 
were  rulers  of  districts ;  and  two  hundred  and  twelve  were  lords 
of  castles.  The  richest  of  the  daimios  was  Ma£da,  the  lord  of 
Kaga,  the  next  being  Shimadzu  of  Satsuma.  Their  "  revenue  " 
was  stated  in  terms  of  the  rice  product  of  which  their  domains 
were  supposed  to  be  capable,  and  on  the  basis  of  which  they  levied 
taxes ;  that  of  Kaga  being  1,027,000,  Satsuma  710,000,  Choshiu 
369,000,  Datte  350,000,  Echizen  325,600;  and  of  "the  three 
titular  brothers  "  of  the  Shogun  (Go  San  Ke*),  Owari  610,500, 
Kii  550,000,  and  Mito  350,000  koku  respectively.  A  koku  of  rice, 
usually  contained  in  two  hio  or  straw  bags,  amounts  to  5.13  bush- 
els. To  be  a  daimio,  or  "  big  name,"  one  must  have  a  revenue  of 
10,000  koku.  The  personal  retainers  of  the  Shogun  receiving 
land  assessed  under  10,000  koku  were  called  shomio,  or  "  little 
names."  In  the  first  class  of  shomio  were  those  who  rallied  around 
the  flag,  or  hata-moto,  whose  incomes  were  over  300  or  less  than 
10,000  koku.  In  the  second  grade  were  the  go  kenin,  or  honor- 
able retainers,  whose  income  varied  from  100  koku  to  that  of 
those  poor  fellows  (many  of  whom  the  writer  knew  personally) 
whose  annual  stipend  out  of  the  local  rice-stores  was  but  fifteen 


294  MB.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

stantly  working  on  these  men,  and  when  they  could 
get  them  to  listen  they  frequently  convinced  them ; 

hio,  or  less  than  three  koku.  The  Yedo  Manual  groups  the  dai- 
mios into  thirty-nine  clans  or  families,  allied  by  blood,  or  by  a 
very  free  system  of  adoption  that  deranges  all  our  Western  no- 
tions of  propriety,  —  as  Mr.  Harris  noticed.  In  the  Legacy  of 
Iytyasu,  a  document  of  uncertain  date,  authenticity,  and  value, 
the  daimios,  beside  being  classed  as  kokushiu,  rioshiu,  and  joshiu, 
are  called  tozama  and  fudai,  or  outer  and  vassal  rulers  of  terri- 
tory, the  former  having  declared  their  adherence  to  Iy^yasu  only 
after  the  fall  of  Hid^yori  and  Osaka  in  1614.  The  tozama  lords 
ruled  their  own  fiefs,  while  the  fudai  could  be  ordered  on  and  off 
each  other's  domains  like  pieces  of  chess  by  the  Tycoon  or  over- 
lord at  Yedo.  To  the  great  Tokugawa  clan  belonged  the  "  three 
princely  families  "  (Go  San  K£)  and  eighteen  other  fudai  daimios. 
Nearly  all  the  offices  under  the  Bakafu  were  held  by  hata-moto 
or  go  kenin,  though  the  roju,  or  elders  in  the  Council  of  State, 
and  the  higher  offices  were  from  the  class  of  fudai  daimios. 
Furthermore,  there  were  thirty  grades  of  court  rank,  one  of  which 
was  attached  to  every  office,  real  or  imaginary.  The  highest  could 
be  given  only  after  death.  In  the  province  and  daimiate  of  Echi- 
zen,  in  which  the  writer  saw  the  feudal  system  during  a  residence 
of  ten  months,  these  divisions  of  land,  offices,  titles,  illustra- 
tions of  the  power  or  of  the  limitations  of  the  overlordship  at 
Yedo,  were  strikingly,  often  dramatically,  and  even  ludicrously, 
manifested.  The  general  term  for  the  civil  nobles  of  the  old  Im- 
perial court  was  kuge\  while  that  of  the  military  classes  was  buk£, 
the  pure  Japanese  word  being  samurai.  The  literal  meaning  of 
this  latter  term,  which  included  all  persons  eligible  to  the  honor 
of  wearing  two  swords,  is  "  servant  of  the  Emperor."  By  the 
Imperial  Rescript  of  June  6,  1884,  the  orders  of  nobility  were 
reformed,  and  out  of  the  kuge\  daimio,  and  samurai  was  formed 
the  general  class  of  kwazoku,  or  "  flowery  nobility,"  in  which  are 
five  grades,  princes,  marquises,  counts,  viscounts,  and  barons.  In 
this  nobility,  besides  the  old  names  and  houses,  is  a  large  number 


THE  OPENING  OF  THE  PORTS.  295 

but  many,  like  the  obstinate  of  more  enlightened 
countries,  refused  to  listen  to  a  word  of  reason, 
argument,  or  explanation.  This  last  class  will 
only  yield  to  the  opinion  of  the  Mikado  when  it 
shall  be  promulgated. 

I  made  the  following  suggestion  to  Shinano  : 
Let  us  proceed,  and  complete  the  treaty  as  soon 
as  possible,  and  have  it  engrossed  and  ready  for 
signature.  Then  let  the  Council  of  State,  or  the 
Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs,  write  me  a  letter  say- 
ing that  the  Commissioners  appointed  to  negotiate 
with  me  a  commercial  treaty  between  the  United 

of  men,  once  of  low  rank,  who  for  signal  ability  or  meritorious 
services  have  been  ennobled.  The  gentry  have  been  renamed 
shizoku.  The  common  people  are  helmin.  In  December,  1888, 
there  were  eleven  princes,  thirty  marquises,  eighty-two  counts, 
three  hundred  and  sixty-four  viscounts,  and  ninety-six  barons. 
In  the  Upper  House  of  the  Imperial  Diet,  created  in  1889, 
thirty-seven  members  of  the  nobility  sit  by  hereditary  right; 
while,  out  of  the  remaining  five  hundred  and  forty-four,  a  limited 
number,  not  exceeding  one  fifth  of  the  whole,  may  be  chosen  to 
serve  seven  years.  In  the  list  of  eleven  princes  are  four  represen- 
tatives of  the  old  daimio  families,  two  of  Satsuma,  one  of  Taka- 
tsukasa,  and  one  of  Tokugawa.  Among  the  marquises  are  a  few 
old  huge*  families,  but  most  of  them  are  from  the  old  territo- 
rial feudal  nobility.  It  would  not  be  difficult  to  show  that,  from 
the  first  attempt  of  the  Bakafu  in  1853  to  sound  public  opinion 
by  consulting  the  daimios  concerning  the  question  of  making  a 
treaty  with  the  Americans,  the  evolution  of  representative  insti- 
tutions has  gone  steadily  forward.  Out  of  the  roju,  or  Council  of 
Elders,  in  Yedo  has  grown  by  steady  progress  the  Imperial  Diet 
of  to-day,  which  the  Liberals  insist  shall  be  transformed  still 
further  from  the  German  to  the  English  type. 


296  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

States  and  Japan  had  completed  their  labors,  and 
that  the  treaty  was  now  ready  for  signature ;  but, 
for  certain  important  reasons,  the  signing  of  the 
treaty  must  be  postponed  for  sixty  days,  on  or 
before  the  expiration  of  which  time  the  treaty  as 
it  now  stood  should  be  signed. 

Thereupon  I  would  return  to  Shimoda  to  prepare 
my  dispatches  for  my  government ;  that  at  the 
end  of  fifty  days,  if  not  before,  the  government 
should  send  their  steamer  to  Shimoda  for  bringing 
me  again  to  Yedo,  for  the  purpose  of  executing 
the  treaty.  The  Prince  was  much  pleased  with 
the  idea,  and  told  me  he  would  communicate  it 
to  the  government  at  once,  and  speak  to  me  about 
it  to-morrow.  I  do  not  see  what  I  can  do  better 
under  the  peculiar  circumstances  in  which  I  am 
placed.  If  I  can  get  the  written  promise  of  the 
government  that  the  treaty  (not  a  treaty)  shall  be 
signed  by  a  certain  day,  I  do  not  see  but  it  is  as 
binding  on  them  as  the  signature  of  the  Commis- 
sioners to  the  treaty  itself. 

Friday,  February  19,  1858.  Toke,  Prince  of 
Tamba,  sent  me  a  beautiful  present  of  a  plum-tree 
in  full  bloom,  having  more  than  one  thousand  blos- 
soms !  The  stock  is  four  inches  diameter  at  the 
bottom,  and  eighteen  inches  high.  Nearly  thirty 
grafts  have  been  inserted  in  the  stock,  and  these 
have  grown  up  some  twenty-four  to  thirty  inches 
high,    and,  branching   out,  give   more   than  fifty 


THE  OPENING   OF  THE  PORTS.  297 

sprays.  Not  a  green  leaf  is  visible,  but  all  the 
sprays  are  covered  from  end  to  end  with  fragrant 
white  blossoms. 

At  two  P.  M.  the  Prince  of  Shinano  visited  me, 
and  brought  a  beautiful  china  pot  of  bulbs  of  the 
daffodil  family,  in  bloom;  the  Japanese  name  is 
"  Happy  Longevity,"  and  it  is  a  favorite  New 
Year's  gift.  He  tells  me  that  their  laws  regarding 
mourning  have  been  greatly  modified  during  the 
last  two  hundred  years.  Formerly,  an  officer  on 
the  death  of  his  father  resigned  his  employments, 
and  lived  retired  for  three  years.  Now,  he  does 
not  resign,  and  mourns  for  fifty  days  full  mourn- 
ing; that  is,  does  not  attend  to  any  business,  or 
shave  his  head  or  beard  during  that  time :  after  the 
fifty  days  are  expired  he  resumes  his  duties,  and 
shaves,  etc.,  but  for  one  year  he  must  not  attend 
any  festivities. 

The  daimios,  who  have  sovereign  rule  in  their 
dominions,  are  seven  or  eight  of  the  original  eigh- 
teen of  that  rank.  The  Prince  of  Kaga  has  the 
largest  principality,  and  is  the  most  powerful  and 
wealthy  of  any  of  his  class.  Not  even  the  Tai-kun 
may  send  a  person  into  the  dominions  of  these 
daimios  without  their  consent  "first  had  and  ob- 
tained." The  Japanese  pretend  that  any  officer  of 
the  Imperial  government  intruding  without  such 
leave  would  instantly  be  put  to  death. 

Did  not  meet  the  Commissioners  until  nearly 


298  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

five  P.  M.  They  informed  me  that  the  proposition 
I  made  to  Shinano  no  Kami  yesterday  was  accepted 
by  the  government,  and  that  the  letter  pledging  the 
faith  of  the  government  that  the  treaty  should  be 
executed  within  sixty  days  from  this  date  would  be 
signed  by  Hotta,  Prince  of  Bitchiu,  Minister  of 
Foreign  Affairs,  and  that  the  steamer  should  be 
sent  to  Shimoda  ten  days  before  that  time  to  bring 
me  to  Yedo.1 

We  then  took  up  the  treaty  for  final  considera- 
tion, and  after  much  consideration  the  preamble 
was  accepted.  A  long  debate  arose  on  the  [clause]  : 
"  All  diplomatic  and  consular  officers  shall  have  the 
right  to  travel  freely  in  any  part  of  the  Empire 
of  Japan."  After  much  time  wasted  over  it,  I 
offered  to  strike  out  the  whole  clause,  and  leave 
those  officers  to  claim  their  rights  under  the  laws 
of  nations.  This  they  also  objected  to,  wishing  to 
restrain  consuls  to  their  consular  districts,  which  I 
as  strongly  refused  to  do,  or  to  insert  any  clause 
which  might  deprive  them  of  a  right  they  could 
claim  under  the  laws  of  nations. 

I  had  at  one  time  serious  [fears]  that  the  whole 
treaty  might  be  wrecked  on  this  point.  They  went 
over  the  old  ground  of  objections,  the  claims  of  the 
daimios  to  exclusive  jurisdiction  in  their  own  prin- 
cipalities, then  furious  objections  to  any  infringe- 

1  All  these  promises  were  fulfilled  to  the  letter,  as  Mr.  Harris's 
letters  and  dispatches  show. 


THE  OPENING   OF  THE  POETS.  299 

ment  of  their  ancient  rights,  and  the  certainty  that 
serious  difficulties  would  arise  from  the  clause.  At 
last  they  said  that  they  would  consent  to  insert 
that  the  Minister  and  Consul-General  should  have 
that  right,  but  to  exclude  other  consuls.  I  at  last 
consented  to  accept  their  proposition,  but  not  to 
insert  the  words  "  other  consular  officers."  At  last 
they  accepted  it,  after  a  struggle  to  get  the  inser- 
tion of  a  clause  requiring  the  Minister  and  Consul- 
General  to  give  notice  to  the  government  of  their 
intention  to  travel,  etc.,  etc.,  and  also  to  strike  out 
the  word  "  freely  "  from  the  connection  "  may  freely 
travel  in  any  part,"  etc.  Both  propositions  were 
rejected  by  me,  and  finally  the  clause  was  accepted 
as  above  amended.  The  counterpart  for  "  Japan- 
ese Diplomatic  Agent,  etc.,  in  the  United  States," 
was  made  to  correspond  with  the  grant  to  us.  The 
whole  article  was  now  finally  accepted. 

Article  2.  After  an  attempt  to  strike  out  the 
word  "request"  from  the  first  paragraph,  " The 
President  of  the  United  States  will  at  the  request 
of  the  Japanese  government  act  as  a  friendly  me- 
diator," on  inquiry,  I  found  they  had  translated 
the  Dutch  word  "versoek"  "to  beg."  After  an 
explanation  of  the  true  meaning  of  "  request,"  they 
consented  to  take  the  clause  as  it  stands  in  the 
original  draft.  The  Commissioners  now  wished 
to   adjourn,   promising   to    meet   me   at  noon   to- 


morrow. 


300  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

I  am  told  that  formerly,  on  the  death  of  one 
of  the  daimios,  numbers  of  his  domestics  or  offi- 
cers performed  the  hara-kiri,  i.  e.  ripping  them- 
selves up  ;  but  that  custom  has  been  abolished.1 

Earthquake  at  11.30  p.  M. 

Saturday,  February  20,  1858.  Snow  this  morn- 
ing. I  am  told  the  Prince  of  Kaga  "goes  on" 
like  a  lunatic  about  the  treaty.  He  says,  while  the 
Tai-kun  governs  by  the  ancient  laws  he  will  be  his 
subject ;  but  when  he  departs  from  them  his  alle- 
giance ceases.  I  do  not  by  any  means  place  full 
faith  in  what  the  Japanese  tell  me  about  these 
matters.  I  know  enough  of  them  to  be  aware  that 
to  lie  is  the  rule,  to  tell  the  truth  is  the  exception. 

I  am  told  the  Tai-kun  is  in  favor  of  the  treaty, 
saying  that  he  is  convinced  it  is  for  the  good  of  the 
country.  The  smaller  daimios  dare  not  openly 
oppose  the  government,  but  they  shield  themselves 
under  the  opinions  of  the  greater  daimios.  They 
say  that  two  papers  will  be  presented  to  the  Mi- 
kado, one  in  favor  of  the  proposed  treaty  and  the 
other  against  it ;  that,  after  examining  both,  he 
will  approve  of  one,  and  that  approval  is  binding 
on  all ;  that  even  those  most  violently  opposed  to 
the  treaty  will  say,  if  he  decides  in  favor  of  the 
treaty,  "  God  has  spoken :  I  submit."     This  do'es 

1  The  custom  of  jun-shi,  or  dying  with  the  master,  was  a  very 
ancient  one  in  Japan,  but  was  abolished  only  gradually.  See 
M.  E.  T.  «/".,  Religions  of  Japan,  etc. 


THE  OPENING   OF  THE  PORTS.  301 

not  agree  very  well  with  the  almost  contemptu- 
ous manner  in  which  the  Japanese  speak  of  this 
potentate. 

I  am  told  that  large  sums  of  money  have  already 
been  distributed  among  the  officers  of  the  Mikado, 
and  that  still  larger  sums  will  be  applied  in  the 
same  manner. 

Meet  the  Commissioners  at  two  P.  m.,  and  con- 
tinue until  seven.  A  very  discouraging  meeting  ; 
the  whole  time  was  passed  in  noting  down  their 
proposed  amendments  to  the  first  eight  articles. 
Many  of  these  are  absurd,  others  childish,  and  some 
fatal  to  the  working  of  the  treaty. 

Sunday,  February  21,  1856.  The  first  Sunday 
in  Lent,  and  a  lovely  day.  I  am  quite  disheart- 
ened and  low-spirited  about  the  treaty.  I  greatly 
fear  that  I  shall  altogether  fail  in  making  a  treaty 
that  will  be  acceptable  to  the  President. 

To  add  to  my  difficulties,  their  Dutch  interpreter 
is  very  imperfectly  acquainted  with  the  idioms  of 
that  language,  while  his  self-sufficiency  is  in  the 
exact  ratio  of  his  ignorance.  The  Japanese  lan- 
guage does  not  possess  either  singular  or  plural, 
has  no  relative  pronoun,  nor  is  the  use  of  the  ante- 
cedent known ;  neither  has  it  any  possessive  case. 
These  defects  require  the  constant  repetition  of 
nouns  and  verbs,  and  at  all  times  make  the  mean- 
ing vague  and  obscure. 

I  never  shall  get  to  the  bottom  of  the  deceptions 


3 


302  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

of  the  Japanese.  I  now  learn  that  the  "  three 
brothers  of  the  Tai-kun  "  are  merely  titular  bro- 
thers ; *  they  are  of  the  family,  but  the  removes  by 
birth  carry  them  beyond  the  list  of  parentage  as 
known  by  us.  They  are  the  Princes  of  Owari, 
Kii,  and  of  Mito.  These  men  are  called  the  "  first 
brothers  "  of  the  Tai-kun,  and  he  also  has  three 
"  second  brothers,"  who  are  also  merely  titular 
relations. 

Monday,  February  22, 1858.  Meet  at  nine  A.  M. 
Only  Shinano  no  Kami  present.  I  note  the  pro- 
posed amendments  to  the  treaty  offered  by  him, 
but  do  not  enter  into  any  discussions  about  the 
merits  of  them. 

They  are  of  various  classes.  Some  are  absurd, 
others  mischievous,  and  not  one  that  is  of  the  least 
benefit  to  Japan  by  adding  to  her  security  or  honor. 
The  insertion  of  some  would  make  obscure  what  is 
now  clear,  and  many  would  excite  laughter.  The 
tone  of  all  the  amendments  is  unfriendly  and 
haughty,  and  calculated  to  make  the  treaty  unac- 
ceptable. 

They  have  not  as  yet  decided  on  the  tariff ;  con- 
sequently the  subject  of  tonnage  dues,  import  and 
export  duties,  and  fines  was  all  passed  over,  they 
promising  an  answer  to  those  points  on  the  24th. 
The  next  meeting  is  to  be  to-morrow  at  two  p.  M., 

1  There  is  no  simple  term  for  "  brother  "  in  the  Japanese  lan- 
guage.    See  The  Religions  of  Japan. 


THE  OPENING   OF  THE  POUTS.  303 

when  both  Commissioners  are  to  be  present.  They 
promise  to  give  me  an  amended  copy  of  the  letter 
which  is  to  be  written  to  me  by  Hotta,  Prince  of 
Bitchiu,  after  the  negotiations  are  closed. 

Tuesday,  February  23.  Met  both  the  Commis- 
sioners at  one  p.  m.  I  opened  the  discussion  by 
saying  that  I  had  carefully  considered  all  their 
proposed  amendments;  that  some  were  a  mere 
change  of  words,  others  rendered  the  meaning 
obscure ;  that  many  will  open  the  door  for  disputes 
and  difficulties ;  that  the  change  of  a  word  in  one 
article  sometimes  required  the  alteration  of  many 
articles,  as  all  must  agree ;  that  many  of  the  amend- 
ments showed  a  very  unfriendly  spirit ;  and  that 
the  insertion  of  what  they  proposed  would  cause 
the  treaty  to  be  rejected.  I  closed  by  saying  that 
such  amendments  as  were  reasonable  or  necessary 
should  be  adopted. 

We  then  took  up  article  7,  concerning  the  limits 
of  the  various  ports,  and  to  my  agreeable  sur- 
prise they  accepted  my  proposal  for  Hakodate* 
and  Nagasaki ;  they  now  give  me  Hiogo  for  Sakai, 
and  the  boundaries  are  arranged.  Niigata  is  post- 
poned until  it  is  determined  whether  that  port,  or 
another  on  the  west  coast  of  Nippon,  shall  be  ac- 
cepted ;  and,  lastly,  we  settle  on  the  Nagasaki  boun- 
daries. The  treaty  must  be  referred  to  for  the 
particulars.  We  then  took  up  their  proposals  in 
the  order  in  which  they  relate  to  the  articles,  and 


304  MR.  HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

rapidly  disposed  of  them,  so  that  at  five  P.  M.  the 
treaty  was  agreed  on. 

The  regulations  were  then  taken  up.  They 
accepted  the  penalties,  and  agreed  that  tonnage 
duties  should  not  be  levied  ;  but  they  gave  me  no- 
tice that  they  should  levy  export  and  import  duties. 
I  then  informed  them  that  the  levying  of  export 
duties  would  require  an  alteration  of  article  10, 
and  the  striking  out  of  article  11  of  the  treaty, 
which  they  assented  to. 

They  informed  me  that  the  report  on  the  tariff 
and  export  duties  could  not  be  ready  before  the 
25th  instant.  On  the  morning  of  which  day  they 
would  hand  me  the  tariff  as  they  propose  it,  and 
meet  me  at  one  P.  M.  Thus  closes  this  journal 
with  an  account  of  the  most  satisfactory  day's  busi- 
ness I  ever  had  with  them.  They  seemed  to  be 
in  earnest,  and  acted  promptly  and  reasonably. 

Thursday,  February  25,  1858.  The  Commission- 
ers sent  me  their  proposition  for  duties.  With  the 
exception  of  a  few  articles,  they  propose  an  im- 
port duty  of  twelve  and  a  half  per  cent,  and  an 
export  duty  of  the  same  amount  on  all  articles  ex- 
ported, whether  of  Japanese  or  foreign  production. 
Such  an  export  duty  would  crush  anything  like 
prosperous  trade. 

Met  the  Commissioners  at  two  P.  M.  Stated  my 
objections  to  their  tariff.  I  have  been  anxious  not 
to  have  any  export  duties,  but  am  forced  to  aban- 


THE  OPENING   OF  THE  POBTS.  305 

don  the  idea.  We  at  last  agreed  on  export  duty, 
at  five  per  cent.,  on  all  articles  of  Japanese  pro- 
duction exported  as  cargo.  The  import  duty  is  to 
be  five  per  cent,  on  all  articles  required  for  ships, 
whalers,  etc.,  and  some  other  articles,  including 
living  animals  of  all  kinds,  bread  and  breadstuff^, 
and  salted  productions,  etc. 

Intoxicating  drinks  of  all  kinds,  thirty-five  per 
cent.1  All  other  articles  (except  as  below),  twenty 
per  cent.  Gold  and  silver,  coined  or  uncoined, 
with  the  clothing,  books,  furniture,  etc.,  of  persons 
who  come  to  reside  in  Japan,  are  duty  free. 

The  duties  are  to  be  subject  to  revision,  if  the 
Japanese  desire  it,  five  years  after  Kanagawa  has 
been  opened. 

I  informed  them  that  ministers,  consuls -gen- 
eral, etc.,  did  not  pay  duty  on  any  articles  for 
their  own  use.  They  agree  to  write  to  the  Gov- 
ernor of  Hakodate  to  act  with  Mr.  Rice  in  select- 
ing the  place  where  Americans  shall  erect  their 
buildings,  etc.,  at  that  place,  also,  that  Mr.  Eice 
is  to  be  furnished  with  Japanese  money.  I  gave 
them  Mr.  Rice's  complaints  about  high  prices  at 
Hakodate,  and  they  promised  to  inquire  into  it. 

They  still  wish  me  to  write  to  my  government, 
asking  that  a  Minister  shall  not  be  sent  to  Japan 
before    January  1,  1861.     They   gave    me  notice 

1  See  closing  words  of  the  final  chapter  of  this  book,  showing 
how  this  proviso  was  later  altered. 


306  MR.   HARRIS'S  JOURNAL. 

they  should  write  me  a  letter  requesting  that  copies 
of  the  treaty  should  be  transmitted  to  the  English 
and  Russians  by  the  Secretary  of  State. 

We  made  some  slight  verbal  amendments,  and 
then  agreed  that  a  fair  copy  should  be  made  for 
examination,  prior  to  its  being  engrossed. 

They  still  stick  to  the  six  per  cent,  discount  on 
money  in  my  case  ;  rather  small  for  a  government 
that  professes  to  have  such  a  contempt  for  money. 

Saturday,  February  27,  1858.  Last  evening, 
gave  clean  copy  of  treaty  to  the  Japanese.1  To-day 
the  Commissioners  send  me  word  they  will  require 
until  Tuesday  next,  March  2,  to  examine,  with 
the  Council  of  State,  the  final  draft  of  the  treaty. 
If  any  doubt  had  existed  in  my  mind  that  I  was 
in  reality  negotiating  with  the  Council,  and  that 
the  Commissioners  had  no  real  full  powers,  this 
significant  circumstance  would  remove  it. 

They  tell  me  it  will  take  the  steamer  two  days 
to  run  from  Kanagawa  to  Shimoda  (not  over 
seventy  nautical  miles).  If  this  be  true,  it  must 
be  a  very  poor  affair,  and  will  hardly  take  their 
ambassador  to  San  Francisco. 

Busy  yesterday  and  to-day  in  writing  letters,  — 

1  For  the  text  of  this  treaty,  with  the  appended  regulations, 
as  well  as  of  the  Convention  of  June  17,  1857,  and  subsequent 
treaties  between  Japan  and  the  United  States,  see  pp.  597-628  of 
Treaties  and  Conventions  between  Japan  and  Other  Powers. 
Washington,  1887. 


THE  OPENING   OF  THE  PORTS.  307 

one  to  Mr.  Rice,  one  to  Mr.  Donker  Curtius,  and 
other  private  letters  to  my  friends  in  America. 

Since  the  16th  instant,  when  the  snow  fell  so 
deeply,  the  weather  has  been  remarkably  cold  for 
the  latitude  of  36°  until  to-day.  The  thermometer 
has  never  risen  above  33°,  although  the  days  have 
been  generally  fine.  A  fresh  wind,  N.  W.,  bring- 
ing the  frosty  air  from  Kamchatka,  has  constantly 
blown.1 


Note. — Mr.  Tsuda  Sen,  who  is  well  known  to  many  Ameri- 
cans, and  whose  daughter,  Miss  Ume*,  was  educated  in  Washing- 
ton, D.  C,  in  a  letter  dated  May  27,  1892,  writes  :  — 

"  I  knew  Mr.  Harris  personally.  When  he  first  came  to  Yedo, 
one  of  the  Japanese  phrenologists,  named  Yamaguchi  Chiydda, 
desired  very  much  to  meet  him  and  see  his  physiognomy,  but  he 
could  not  meet  him  easily.  One  day,  hearing  that  the  Consul- 
General  was  to  visit  the  temple  at  Asakusa,  he  disguised  himself 
as  one  of  the  servants  of  the  tea-house  there.  He  saw  Mr.  Har- 
ris's physiognomy  and  said  with  wonder,  '  There  is  no  such  man 
as  he  in  Japan.  He  is  an  honest  and  virtuous  man ;  and  if  we 
follow  his  opinion,  it  will  profit  the  country  much.  He  is  a 
saint.'  Every  one  hearing  the  words  of  the  phrenologist  felt 
very  strangely,  but  I  see  that  his  words  were  true. 

"  At  that  time  I  served  as  an  officer  in  the  Foreign  Department, 
and  I  often  met  Mr.  Harris.  I  admired  him  because  he  did  not 
change  his  views  frequently,  for  he  always  spoke  deliberately." 

1  Here  ends  Mr.  Harris's  Journal. 


PART  III. 

SUCCESS,  REPOSE,  AND  HONORS. 


Heaven's  ordination  baffles  the  human. 

Prince  Kitashirakawa. 

Baron  Ii  was  the  man  called  to  face  these  great  problems  (of 
foreign  intercourse).  Confident  in  the  wisdom  of  his  policy,  he 
bravely  opposed  public  opinion,  and  was  hated  even  by  his  own 
kin.  The  result  was  the  sacrifice  of  life  to  conviction.  Yet  this 
sad  event  not  only  saved  our  country  from  the  misfortune  that 
befell  our  neighbor  China,  but  opened  the  pathway  of  civilization 
in  our  own  land.  This  merit  is  attributable  to  none  but  to 
Baron  Ii.  Count  Field-Marshal  Yamagata. 

As  beats  the  ceaseless  wave  on  Omi's  strand, 
So  breaks  my  heart  for  our  beloved  land. 

Poem  by  Ii  Kamon  No  Kami. 

The  reason  why  we  treat  the  United  States  as  our  good  neigh- 
bor is  because  she  has  good  will  to  our  country,  but  also,  as  we 
believe,  that  the  future  queens  on  the  Pacific  are  not  to  be  found 
anywhere  else  except  in  the  United  States  and  Japan.  We  do 
not  expect  her  to  be  our  political  ally ;  we  only  want  to  run  with 
her  in  the  race  of  civilization,  as  our  beneficial  friend,  toward 
social  and  commercial  enterprise.  Tokutomi. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

JAPAN   OPENED   TO   THE  WORLD. 

Mr.  Harris's  journals  end  with  the  record  of 
February  27,  1858.  Our  brief  story  of  his  life 
from  this  time  forth  is  made  up  out  of  his  letter- 
books  and  from  Japanese  documents. 

In  those  days  the  Japanese  people  understood 
very  little  of  the  nature  of  treaties.  To  most  na- 
tives the  Americans'  demands  for  commercial  priv- 
ileges were  interpreted  to  mean  territorial  invasion 
and  ultimate  occupation.  Coming  so  soon  after 
Great  Britain's  conquest  of  India,  and  the  Ameri- 
can humiliation  of  Mexico,  this  was  nothing  won- 
derful. The  Japanese  nobles  and  samurai  were 
quickly  divided  into  Exclusionists  and  Progression- 
ists. The  former,  in  vast  majority,  were  led  by  the 
powerful  daimio  of  Mito  ;  the  latter  had  as  yet  no 
conspicuous  leader  to  dare  the  assassin's  sword. 

The  gravity  of  the  situation  was  felt  so  keenly 
by  the  Shogun  and  his  Senators  that  an  envoy 
was  dispatched  to  Nikko  to  lay  a  copy  of  the 
American  treaty  upon  the  mausoleum  of  Iyeyasu, 
and  make  inquiry  of  his  august  spirit.  The  learned 
professor  Hayashi  was  sent  to  Kioto  to  gain  the 


312         SUCCESS,   REPOSE,   AND  HONORS. 

Mikado's  consent  to  the  treaty.  After  a  month's 
loss  of  time,  he  returned  to  Yedo  to  report  failure. 
Meanwhile  the  political  cauldron  began  to  boil  as 
never  before. 

Mr.  Harris,  while  in  Yedo,  refrained  from  corre- 
spondence with  the  Dutch  Commissioner  at  Naga- 
saki, Mr.  J.  H.  D.  Curtius,  until  March  8,  when, 
the  treaty  negotiations  being  over,  he  wrote  :  — 

"  The  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs  and  President 
of  the  Council  of  State  has  written  me  a  letter 
positively  pledging  the  signatures  to  the  treaty  on 
or  before  the  21st  of  April." 

■s  To  the  same  effect  Mr.  Harris  had  written, 
March  4,  to  the  Hon.  Lewis  Cass,  Secretary  of 
State,  inclosing  a  Dutch  copy  and  an  English  trans- 
lation of  Hotta's  letter  for  the  archives  in  Wash- 


ington. 


Leaving  Yedo  in  the  Japanese  government 
steamer  March  10,  Mr.  Harris  reached  Shimoda  on 
the  12th.  Exhausted  nature  giving  way,  he  sank 
unconscious  into  a  nervous  fever,  which  lasted  for 
weeks.  The  idea  of  losing  their  friend  at  this  crisis 
of  affairs  so  alarmed  the  statesmen  in  Yedo  that  the 
Tycoon's  own  physicians,  graduates  of  the  unincor- 
porated but  efficient  Dutch  school  of  medicine  at 
Nagasaki,  were  dispatched  to  Shimoda.  It  was  in- 
timated to  them  that  their  own  lives  would  be  in 
peril  if  the  American's  were  lost.  As  on  a  former 
occasion  in  Yedo,  the  chief  lady  of  the  city,  the 


JAPAN  OPENED   TO   THE   WORLD.         313 

Tycoon's  wife,  sent  Mr.  Harris  tempting  delicacies 
prepared  by  her  own  hands.  With  a  sword  sus- 
pended, as  it  were,  over  their  bowels,  and  possible 
,  seppuku  in  view,  the  doctors,  aided  by  nature, 
saved  their  patient.  The  threatened  symptoms  of 
putrid  fever  passed  away,  and  by  April  1  the  treaty- 
maker  began  to  think  of  his  return  to  Yedo,  which 
was  fixed  for  the  15th.  Despite  the  remonstrances 
of  his  physicians,  and  so  weak  that  he  had  to  be 
carried  on  board  the  steamer,  he  made  the  journey 
by  water.  Arriving  in  the  great  city  on  the  17th, 
he  found  disappointment  awaiting  him.  Hotta  was 
still  in  Kioto. 

Long  before  this  time,  Mr.  Harris,  though  stnK 

/    much  puzzled,  began  to  suspect  that  the  Yedo  gov-  \ 

j      ernment  was  an  empty  sham,  and  that  the  real 

I      ruler  of  Japan  was  the  Mikado,  whose  approval  of 

\the  treaty  must  be  obtained  in  order  to  calm  the 

country.     Hotta,  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs, 

had  departed  for  the  "  Blossom  Capital,"  and  was 

still  laboring  to  obtain  the  true  Imperial  signature. 

In  over  two  hundred  years,  only  two  missions  from 

the   Yedo   government    had    been    dispatched   to 

Kioto,  success  in  both  instances  following  within 

ten  days.     In  this  case  Hotta  waited,  negotiated, 

exhausted  all  his  resources,  for  fifty  days,  in  vain. 

In    the   native  histories  the    story   is  a  long   one 

about  the  vacillations  of  politics  at  the  Court ;  one 

day,  the  Emperor's   premier,   declaring   by  edict 


314  SUCCESS,   REPOSE,   AND  HONORS. 

"that  full  powers  were  given  to  the  Bakafu  to 
deal  with  the  foreign  question,"  and  the  next 
"  the  opinion  of  the  Court  undergoing  a  profound 
change."  Of  Mr.  Harris,  the  native  historian  says 
that,  rendered  impatient  by  long  waiting,  "he 
threatened  that,  if  his  time  was  to  be  wasted  in 
this  way,  he  would  proceed  forthwith  to  Kioto  and 
arrange  it  [the  treaty]  himself."  Hotta  returned 
to  Yedo  June  1,  and  on  the  5th  Mr.  Harris  had 
an  interview  with  him. 

All  this  time  Mr.  Harris  had  used  no  menace  or 
threats  of  force,  though  he  had  not  failed  to  hint 
at  contemporaneous  events  in  India  and  China,  and 
at  the  presence  of  large  British  and  French  fleets 
in  neighboring  waters.  He  showed  how  much  the 
Japanese  would  gain  by  inaugurating  foreign  inter- 
course by  a  commercial  treaty  granted  reasonably 
and  freely,  before  they  were  compelled  by  force  to 
make  disastrous  concessions.  So  far  was  this  civil- 
ian, alone  in  Yedo,  successful  that,  before  leaving 
for  Kioto,  Hotta,  in  the  name  of  the  government, 
had  given  in  writing  the  pledge  demanded  by  Mr. 
Harris,  and  in  his  letter  of  February  17,  1858, 
after  stating  "  the  necessity  of  delaying  the  signing 
of  the  treaty,"  promised  "  it  should  be  executed 
before  the  expiration  of  sixty  days." 

On  June  6,  the  day  after  his  interview  with 
Hotta,  the  two  treaty  Commissioners  visited  Mr. 
Harris,  who,  in  his  letter  from  Shimoda,  July  8, 
to  Mr.  Cass,  the  Secretary  of  State,  writes :  — 


JAPAN   OPENED   TO   THE   WORLD.         315 

"  The  Commissioners  assured  me  that  the  Ty- 
coon and  Council  of  State  were  fully  resolved  to 
carry  the  treaty  into  effect ;  that  they  did  not  ask 
any  alteration  of  its  conditions,  but  required  time 
to  bring  the  daimios  to  reason.  They  said  the  gov- 
ernment had  the  power  to  crush  the  opposition  by 
force ;  that  they  shrunk  with  horror  from  the  idea 
of  bloodshed  ;  that  the  time  they  asked  for  accom- 
plishing their  purpose  was  until  the  27th  of  the 
seventh  month  (September  4,  1858)  ;  that  if  I 
would  agree  to  this  delay,  the  Council  of  State 
would  write  me  a  letter,  in  which  they  would  pledge 
their  faith  and  that  of  the  Tycoon  that  the  treaty 
should  positively  be  signed  on  the  date  named 
above,  no  matter  what  might  be  the  state  of  public 
opinion  at  that  time." 

Mr.  J.  H.  D.  Curtius,  the  Dutch  superintendent 
of  trade  at  Nagasaki,  had  arrived  in  Yedo  six  days 
after  Mr.  Harris,  April  23,  and,  after  an  audience 
of  the  Shogun,  May  8,  expressed  himself  ready 
to  make  such  a  commercial  treaty  as  would  be 
acceptable  to  the  daimios. 

Mr.  Harris  knew  this,  and  knowing  also  that 
after  his  treaty  should  have  been  made  the  Dutch 
would  gain  all  advantages  under  the  "  favored  na- 
tion "  clause,  wrote  in  the  same  letter  of  July  8 :  — 

"After  mature  deliberation,  I  determined  to 
accede  to  the  request  of  the  Japanese,  provided 
they  would  also  pledge  themselves  in  writing  not 


316  SUCCESS,   REPOSE,   AND  HONOBS. 

to  sign  any  treaty  or  convention  with  any  power 
until  the  expiration  of  thirty  days  after  the  sign- 
ing of  the  American  treaty. 

"  This  proposition  was  accepted  by  the  Council 
of  State,  who  subsequently  wrote  me  a  letter  ex- 
pressing the  conditions  already  stated.  I  transmit 
herewith  a  copy  of  the  Dutch  version  of  that  letter 
with  an  English  translation  of  the  same. 

"  This  document  may  fairly  be  considered  as  a 
virtual  execution  and  ratification  of  the  treaty. 

"  The  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  also  delivered 
to  me  a  large  box  containing  a  letter  from  the 
Tycoon  addressed  to  the  President  of  the  United 
States.  I  was  assured  that  no  letter  had  been 
addressed  by  the  Tycoon  to  any  foreign  power  for 
more  than  two  hundred  and  forty  years,  and  that 
the  answer  to  the  letter  of  the  King  of  Holland  had 
been  written  by  the  Council  of  State." 

With  such  documents  in  his  pocket  the  treaty 
was  practically  won,  and  Mr.  Harris  returned  to 
Shimoda  June  18.  Not  since  the  great  Iyeyasu, 
founder  of  the  Tokugawa  dynasty  of  Shoguns  in 
Yedo,  had  in  1613  addressed  through  Captain  Saris 
letters  to  King  James  I.  of  England,  and  later  to 
the  Stadtholder  of  the  United  Netherlands,  had 
the  Tycoon  ever  sent  an  autograph  letter  or  his  sig- 
nature to  a  foreign  power.  Harried  out  of  his 
dominions  by  the  royal  pedant,  the  Pilgrims,  after 
political  training  in  Holland,  had,  with  other  Eng- 


JAPAN   OPENED   TO   THE   WORLD.  317 

lishmen  and  the  republican  Dutchmen,  founded 
the  great  nation  whose  representative  again  set  the 
Tycoon's  pen  in  motion. 

The  Shogun  Iye*sada,  who  had  thus  written  to 
President  Buchanan,  had  already  resolved  to  sum- 
mon to  the  helm  a  fearless  soul  who  would  quail  at 
no  storm.  Two  days  after  Hotta's  return,  the 
baron  of  Hikone,  better  known  as  Ii  Kamon  no 
Kami,  was  appointed  premier.  With  fierce  patri- 
otism, joined  to  an  iron  will  and  tireless  energy, 
this  able  statesman  girded  himself  to  grapple  with 
the  two  problems  which  confronted  the  Bakafu. 
The  first  was  the  choice  of  an  heir  to  the  childless 
Iyesada;  the  second  was  the  question  of  foreign 
intercourse.  The  first  was  a  vital  matter  in  Jap- 
anese politics,  but  does  not  concern  us  except  to 
note  that  the  choice  fell  on  Iyemochi,  son  of  the 
daimio  of  Kii. 

Mr.  Harris,  though  still  a  lonely  exile,  without 
a  man  or  a  ship  at  hand  to  back  his  claims,  could 
not  long  remain  a  quiet  hermit  in  Shimoda.  Great 
events  were  happening  in  China,  and  so  important 
have  these  been  in  the  eyes  of  Englishmen  that 
most  European  writers  on  the  history  of  Japan 
utterly  ignore  the  great  labors  of  Townsend  Harris 
in  the  education  of  a  nation.  His  work  and  his 
moral  influence  are  alike  unknown  to  them  and  to 
the  encyclopaedias  and  dictionaries  of  biography. 
To  most  historians,  so  called,  the  four  years  from 


318  SUCCESS,   REPOSE,  AND  HONORS. 

the  time  of  Perry  to  Lord  Elgin  form  a  vacuum, 
and  the  historic  page  has  a  blank.  The  publica- 
tion of  Mr.  Harris's  own  journals,  written  on  the 
spot,  and  day  by  day,  reveals  both  the  facts  and 
the  truth. 

Let  it  be  noted,  then,  that  Mr.  Harris's  success 
had  been  already  substantially  won  before  news 
of  the  humiliation  of  China  by  the  allied  forces 
reached  Japan,  even  as  it  had  been  begun  and  was 
well  on  its  way  before  even  the  European  squadrons 
had  gathered  in  this  part  of  the  world.  To  this 
day  the  unenlightened  Englishman  believes  that 
the  unique  success  of  Mr.  Harris,  "not  a  diplo- 
matist, but  a  plain,  honest-hearted  gentleman," 
was  "  due  to  the  influence  he  obtained  over  the 
Taikoon  at  a  time  when  the  Taikoon  and  Council 
in  Yedo  were  agitated  and  alarmed  by  our  second 
war  in  1857,  as  well  as  the  subsequent  opportune 
arrival  of  Lord  Elgin  with  a  British  squadron  at 
Yedo  in  1858."  1 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  Japan  was  already  bound 
by  the  written  promise  of  the  Yedo  government  as 
early  as  February  17  to  execute  the  treaty,  nor  was 
any  attempt  made  to  evade,  revoke,  or  modify  the 
instrument.     It  was  only  for  the  peace  of  the  coun- 

1  This  conjecture  of  Captain  S.  Osborne  in  Japanese  Fragments, 
reechoed  in  the  British  Blue  Books  and  by  Sir  Rutherford  Al- 
cock  thirty  years  ago,  is  reaffirmed  in  the  Life  of  Sir  Harry 
Parkes,  vol.  ii.  pp.  20,  21,  24-26,  43.  The  Japanese  historians 
do  not  agree  with  the  English  writers. 


JAPAN   OPENED   TO   THE    WORLD.         319 

try,  and  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  the  Mikado's 
signature  (which,  however,  came  not  until  1868), 
that  the  Tycoon's  officers  asked  even  for  delay. 

On  July  23,  1858,  the  U.  S.  S.  S.  Missis- 
sippi arrived  at  Shimoda 1  with  the  news  of  peace 
in  China,  the  suppression  of  the  Sepoy  mutiny  in 
India,  the  capture  of  the  Pei-ho  forts  by  the 
British  and  French  forces,  and  the  coming  of  the 
allied  fleets  to  Japan.  In  his  brief  letter  to  Hotta, 
July  24,  Mr.  Harris,  after  epitomizing  the  news, 
urged  uthe  very  great  importance  of  having  the 
treaty  signed  without  the  loss  of  a  single  day." 
On  the  25th,  Commodore  Tatnall  appeared  in  the 
U.  S.  S.  S.  Powhatan.  On  the  27th,  at  one  P.  M., 
Mr.  Harris  reached  Kanagawa,  and  delivered  his 
letter  of  the  24th. 

For  the  first  time,  the  Yedo  government  acted 
promptly  and  with  independence,  for  the  simple 
reason  that  there  was  a  man  at  the  helm  who  dared 
for  his  country's  good.  The  memory  of  Ii  Kamon 
no  Kami  (assassinated  March  23,  1861),  so  long 
desecrated,  is  now  cleansed  from  stain  by  the  schol- 
arly labors  of  Shimada  Saburo.2  Unwilling  to 
risk  his  country's  becoming  like  India  or  China, 
Ii,  the  regent   and   premier,   dispatched    the  two 

1  See  Life  of  Matthew  Calbraith  Perry,  pp.  414,  415. 

2  A  digest  of  the  contents  of  Mr.  Shimada's  learned  and  judicial 
work,  Kaikoku  Shimatsu  (Opening  of  the  Country),  or,  The  Life  of 
Nawosuke'  (Ii  Kamon  no  Kami),  has  been  given  by  the  writer  in 
The  Literary  World,  Boston,  May  6,  1893. 


320  SUCCESS,   REPOSE,  AND  HONORS. 

Commissioners,   Shinano   no  Kami  and   Higo  no 
Kami,  to  Kanagawa  by  a  steamer,  which  anchored 

Cnear  the  Powhatan  at  midnight  of_July  28.     De^_. 
s^ite-the  Tllle  against^s,alutes  after  sundown.  Com- 
modore Tatnall  received  the  two  envoys  on  his  ship 
with  a  salute  of  seventeen  guns. 

In  a  private  interview  with  Mr.  Harris,  they 
conveyed  to  him  the  thanks  of  the  Council  of  State 
for  communicating  important  news.  They  urged 
that  to  sign  the  treaty  now,  after  notification  of  its 
execution  by  September  4  had  been  sent  to  the 
daimios,  would  cause  confusion,  while  by  that  time 
all  opposition  would  probably  cease. 

Mr.  Harris  writes  to  Secretary  Cass  :  "I  replied 
that  I  did  not  demand  any  new  arrangement ;  that 
I  had  merely  informed  them  of  the  approaching 
danger,  and  had  given  them  my  candid  advice  as 
to  the  best  course  they  could  pursue ;  that  if  they 
did  not  agree  with  me  I  had  only  to  return  to  Shi- 
moda,  and  quietly  wait  the  day  fixed  on  for  the 
termination  of  the  business. 

"The  Prince  of  Higo  then  proposed  that  I 
should  write  a  letter  to  the  Council  of  State,  in 
which  I  was  to  pledge  myself  that  the  French  and 
English  would  accept  the  American  treaty,  and 
that,  if  it  was  refused,  I  would  act  as  a  friendly 
mediator  on  their  behalf." 

Mr.  Harris  declined  to  do  this,  as  proposed,  but 
he  wrote  a  letter  to  the  Council  of  State  "  stating 


JAPAN  OPENED   TO   THE   WORLD.         321 

my  [his]  belief  that  the  American  treaty  would 
be  accepted  by  the  English  and  French,  and  that 
I  [he]  was  willing  to  act  as  a  friendly  mediator 
should  any  difficulties  arise.  This  proposition  was 
accepted,  and  a  letter  to  the  foregoing  effect  writ- 
ten, a  copy  of  which  is  herewith  transmitted. 

"The  Commissioners  went  to  their  steamer  for 
the  purpose  of  translating  the  letter,  which  being 
complete,  they  returned  to  the  Powhatan  at  three 
p.  m.,  and  the  treaty  was  then  signed.  After  the 
signatures  had  been  affixed,  Commodore  Tatnall 
hoisted  the  Japanese  and  American  flags  together 
at  his  port,  and  saluted  them  with  twenty-one 
guns." 

This  was  joyful  music  to  Townsend  Harris.  The 
guns  were  as  many  as  had  been  his  months  of 
mental  strain.  The  treaty  was  dated  July  29  in- 
stead of  September  4.  On  the  2d  of  August  he 
wrote  to  Sir  John  Bowring  of  Hong-Kong :  — 

"Lord  Elgin  and  Baron  Gros  will  find  their 
work  all  done  to  their  hands  when  they  arrive,  and 
that  a  large  fleet  was  not  required  as  a  demon- 
stration." 

With  mighty  squadrons,  the  British,  French,  and 
Russians  came  later  and  made  treaties,  and  these 
were  flowed  by  twenty  nations;  but  the  treaty 
negotiated  by  Townsend  Harris  is  the  basis  of  them 
all.  Mexico  was  the  first  country  (November  30, 
1888)  to  treat  with  Japan  on  equal  terms. 


322  SUCCESS,   REPOSE,   AND  HONORS. 

Returning  to  Shimoda,  and  later  making  a  voyage 
for  a  few  weeks  of  recreation  to  China,  Mr.  Harris 
found  himself  by  unanimous  vote  of  the  Senate, 
January  7,  1859,  on  President  Buchanan's  nomi- 
nation, Minister  Resident  of  the  United  States  to 
Japan. 

On  the  30th  of  June,  the  Consulate  was  removed 
from  Shimoda  to  Kanagawa,  where  the  American 
flag  was  hoisted  July  1,  1859.  On  the  7th  of 
July,  accompanied  by  a  party  of  twenty  -  three 
fellow  Americans  from  the  U.  S.  S.  S.  Missis- 
sippi, Mr.  Harris  established  the  American  Lega- 
tion at  the  Shin  Shiu  Buddhist  Temple,  Zempu- 
kuji  [Shrine  of  Virtue  and  Happiness],  which 
had  been  founded  A.  D.  1232  by  the  famous  teacher 
and  missionary  Icho.  Here  Mr.  Harris  remained 
during  his  whole  stay  in  the  city  during  the  troub- 
lous times  that  followed  the  opening  of  the  ports. 

In  Yedo,  as  American  Minister,  amid  murders, 
assassinations,  and  incendiarisms,  when  all  his  col- 
leagues had  struck  their  fla^s  and  retired  to  Yoko- 
hama,  Mr.  Harris  held  his  position  alone,  and  kept 
the  American  colors  flying.  To  him  the  only  proper 
place  for  an  envoy  was  in  the  nation's  capital,  as 
he  believed  Yedo  to  be.  He  assisted  generously, 
and  lent  his  interpreter,  Mr.  Heusken,  to  Lord 
Elgin  and  to  Count  Eulenberg,  when  the  British 
and  Prussian  treaties  were  in  course  of  negotia- 
tion.    He  felt  keenly  the  murder  of  Mr.  Heusken, 


JAPAN  OPENED   TO  THE  WORLD.         323 

which  took  place  on  January  14,  and  the  slaugh- 
ter on  March  23,  1860,  of  the  Premier  Ii,  who  in 
a  large  sense  of  the  word  was  a  martyr. 

At  Mr.  Harris's  suggestion  and  advice,  an 
embassy1  left  Japan  for  Washington  via  San 
Francisco,  February  13,  1860,  in  the  U.  S.  S.  S. 
Powhatan,  to  exchange  ratifications  of  the  Harris 
and  to  obtain  a  fresh  copy  of  the  Perry  treaty. 
The  company  of  seventy-one  persons  was  headed 
by  Shimmi.  Their  welcome  in  the  United  States 
was  enthusiastic,  and,  after  their  final  audience 
of  President  Buchanan,  gold,  silver,  and  bronze 
medals  were  struck  in  honor  of  their  visit.  They 
recrossed  the  Pacific  in  a  Japanese  steamer  com- 
manded by  Katsu  Awa,  who  still  lives  as  the  ven- 
erable first  organizer  and  historian  of  the  modern 
Japanese  navy. 

Despite  all  alarms,  Mr.  Harris  "stood  on  the 
burning  deck,"  because  he  felt  that  his  duty  was  in 
Yedo.  As  indemnity  for  the  assassination  of  Mr. 
Heusken  he  demanded  and  obtained  the  sum  of  ten 
thousand  dollars,  which  was  duly  paid  to  the  sor- 
rowing mother  in  Amsterdam.  With  intensest 
sympathy  for  the  brave  men  of  the  Bakafu,  who 
had  to  suffer  and  fall  with  the  hoary  system  to 
which  their  loyalty  was  pledged,  he  helped  with  his 
kindly  advice  the  Tycoon's  ministers  as  he  was  able. 

1  See  account  in  Nitobe's   The  United  States  and  Japan,  pp. 
159-162. 


324  SUCCESS,   REPOSE,  AND  HONORS. 

Mr.  Harris's  letter  of  resignation  to  President 
Lincoln  is  dated  July  10,  1861.  He  pleads  ill- 
health  and  advancing  years,  and  insists  on  retire- 
ment from  public  duty.  In  spite  of  the  formal 
request  of  the  Japanese  to  the  American  govern- 
ment that  Mr.  Harris  might  be  kept  in  office,  and 
of  Mr.  Seward's  personal  wishes  that  he  should 
continue  to  represent  his  country,  Mr.  Harris  per- 
sisted. In  his  answer  of  October  21,  1861,  Mr. 
Seward  wrote :  — 

"  You  will  do  me  the  justice,  therefore  [in  view 
of  his  recommendation  of  Mr.  Harris  to  President 
Pierce  in  1855],  to  believe  that  I  sincerely  sympa- 
thize with  you  in  your  suffering  from  ill-health,  and 
that  I  regard  your  retirement  from  the  important 
post  you  have  filled  with  such  distinguished  ability 
and  success  as  a  subject  of  grave  anxiety,  not  only 
for  this  country,  but  for  all  the  Western  nations." 

Before  leaving  Japan,  Mr.  Harris  made  a  gift  of 
one  thousand  dollars  for  the  erection  of  the  Amer- 
ican Union  Church  at  Yokohama,  built  in  1875, 
and  standing  on  part  of  the  old  Perry  treaty 
ground.  In  due  time  he  handed  the  Legation 
of  the  United  States  of  America,  at  the  temple 
of  Zempukuji,  to  his  able  successor,  the  Hon. 
Robert  H.  Pruyn,  who  held  his  post  during  the 
trying  times  of  our  Civil  War.  Mr.  Harris  left 
Japan  when  Americans  felt  almost  like  men  with- 
out a  country. 


JAPAN  OPENED  TO  THE  WOULD.         325 

It  was  while  returning  home,  in  an  agony  of  fear 
for  the  safety  of  the  Union,  that  the  loyal  Amer- 
ican, Townsend  Harris,  was  directly  and  person- 
ally insulted  by  the  captain  of  the  British  mail 
steamer  flying  the  Confederate  flag.  Englishmen 
often  wonder  whether  Americans  "hate"  them, 
and  why. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

HOME    AGAIN.  —  SOCIAL    JOYS.  —  PEACEFUL   END. 

At  home  in  his  beloved  country  and  State,  Mr. 
Harris  paid  a  visit  to  his  boyhood's  home  at  Sandy 
Hill,  N.  Y.  Then,  returning  to  the  metropolis,  he 
found  repose  and  honors.  The  polished  and  courtly 
gentleman  was  a  favorite  in  New  York  society. 
Eegaining  the  vigor  of  health,  he  enjoyed  richly 
the  hospitalities  showered  upon  him.  Among  his 
especial  intimates  were  General  Prosper  M.  Wet- 
more,  Judge  C.  P.  Daly,  General  George  W. 
Cullum,  and  Mr.  T.  Hooker  Hamersly.  Amid  the 
darkest  days  of  the  Civil  War,  his  faith  in  the 
ultimate  success  of  the  Union  arms  was  unshaken. 
Judge  Daly  says :  — 

"  Townsend  Harris  was  a  far-seeing  War  Demo- 
crat. He  believed  from  the  first  that  the  Union 
would  be  maintained.  His  reply  after  every 
defeat  of  the  Federal  army  was,  '  We  '11  whip 
them  yet.'  He  considered  that  our  men  had  poor 
leaders." 

He  hailed  with  joy  the  appointment  of  Grant 
as  general  of  all  the  armies  of  the  Union.  At 
Judge  Daly's  house,  Mr.  Harris  presented  to  the 


HOME  AGAIN.  327 

hero  the  superb  Japanese  sword  which  the  Shogun 
had  given  him  at  his  farewell  audience  in  Yedo. 
The  note  offering  the  gift,  and  the  reply,  are  repro- 
duced from  Mr.  Harris's  papers :  — 

Union  Club,  New  York,  November  15,  1865. 
General,  —  On  the  occasion  of  my  audience  of 
leave,  his  Majesty  the  Tycoon  of  Japan  presented 
me  with  a  sabre  d'honneur,  which  gift  President 
Lincoln  kindly  permitted  me  to  retain. 

It  is  my  desire  to  transfer  it  to  one  of  the  bravest 
and  worthiest  of  my  countrymen,  and  the  united 
voice  of  the  whole  world  unmistakably  points  to 
you  as  the  man  I  seek. 

I  pray  you,  sir,  to  accept  this  sword  as  a  small 
mark  of  my  deep  sense  of  the  great  debt  of  grati- 
tude which  I  (in  common  with  all  my  countrymen) 
owe  to  you  for  your  eminent  services  in  saving  my 
beloved  country  from  the  ruin  that  threatened  her. 
I  have  the  honor  to  be, 

With  profound  respect, 

Your  obedient  and  humble  servant, 
Townsend  Harris. 

Lieutenant-General  Grant. 

Headquarters  of  the  Army  of  the  United  States, 
Washington,  D.  C,  November  23,  1865. 

Hon.  Townsend  Harris  : 

Dear  Sir,  —  I  have  received  the  sabre  d'honneur 
presented  to  you  by  his  Majesty  the  Tycoon  of 


328         SUCCESS,  BEPOSE,   AND  HONOBS. 

Japan,  together  with  your  note  of  the  15th  inst. 
accompanying  it.  This  present  under  ordinary 
circumstances  would  be  highly  appreciated;  but 
coming  with  the  assurances  it  does,  not  only  of  the 
intense  loyalty  of  one  of  our  country's  foreign  min- 
isters during  the  darkest  days  ever  any  country 
passed  through,  but  with  the  compliment  paid  to 
myself  in  that  note,  it  will  not  only  be  appreciated 
by  myself,  but  will  be  handed  down  to  my  children 
and  their  children  with  the  note  itself. 

I  am  not  vain  enough  to  assume  that  you  have 
selected  the  right  person  to  become  the  recipient  of 
this  gift  or  token,  but  feel  complimented  to  know 
that  you  should  think  so. 

With  assurances  of  my  best  wishes  for  your 
future  welfare,  permit  me  to  sign  myself, 

Very  truly  and  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

U.  S.  Gkant, 

Lieutenant-  General, 

Professor  Brander  Matthews,  Mr.  Harris's 
nephew,  writes  as  follows  :  — 

"  He  was  at  Rome  with  us  in  1867,  and  in  Paris 
at  the  Exposition.  .  .  .  After  his  return  to  New 
York,  in  1867,  he  settled  down  and  lived  quietly, 
spending  most  of  his  time  at  the  Union  Club.  .  .  . 
He  disliked  the  noisy,  fast,  stock-exchange  element 
of  the  Union  Club.     He  used  to  say  that  he  and 


HOME  AGAIN.  329 

two  or  three  others  *  talked  sense '  at  one  end  of 
the  room,  and  the  rest  of  the  club  'talked  dol- 
lars '  at  the  other  end.  He  it  was  who  started  the 
library  of  the  Union  Club.  He  told  me  once  that 
Mr.  E>  H.  House x  had  been  to  see  him,  and  I 
believe  they  corresponded  while  Mr.  House  was 
in  Japan." 

It  was  at  the  Union  Club  building,  corner  of 
Twenty-Second  Street  and  Fifth  Avenue,  that  the 
writer  of  this  biographical  sketch  called  on  Mr. 
Harris  in  the  autumn  of  1875,  meeting  him  for  the 
first  time.  In  this  his  seventy-first  year  he  was  in 
failing  health,  though  still  of  imposing  presence. 
Some  of  the  younger  and  less  reverent  members  of 
the  club  referred  pleasantly  to  him  as  "  the  Old 
Tycoon."  Faultless  in  dress,  he  wore  in  his  button- 
hole the  tiny  blue  ribbon  of  the  Order  of  the  Black 
Eagle,  which  he  had  received  from  Prussia.  He 
had  been  spending  the  winters  in  Florida,  but 
suffered  so  much  from  the  lack  of  comforts  and 
conveniences  of  life  in  the  land  of  oranges  (those 

1  Mr.  E.  H.  House  was  correspondent  of  the  New  York  Tribune 
in  Japan  from  1870  to  1875,  and  from  1877  to  1880  was  the  pro- 
prietor and  able  editor  of  The  Tokio  Times.  He  also  wrote  valua- 
ble historical  pamphlets  on  The  Shimonose'ki  Affair,  The  Kag-o- 
shima  Affair,  and,  after  accompanying-  the  army,  The  Japanese 
Expedition  to  Formosa.  In  his  Japanese  Episodes,  and  his  arti- 
cles in  Harpers  Magazine,  The  New  Princeton  Review,  and  espe- 
cially in  The  Atlantic  Monthly,  he  earnestly  pleaded  for  justice  to 
the  Japanese,  which  he  has,  despite  long-  sickness,  lived  to  see 
done,  or  at  least  in  course  of  inauguration. 


330         SUCCESS,  BEPOSE,   AND  HONOBS. 

being  the  days  before  palace  hotels)  that  he  hence- 
forth resolved  to  winter  in  New  York.  He  in- 
quired eagerly  as  to  how  the  Japanese  regarded 
him,  for  he  grieved  heartily  over  the  non-revision 
of  the  treaties,  which,  when  making,  he  had  ex- 
pected to  see  revised  in  half  a  decade.  I  gave 
him  two  copies,  one  plain  and  one  colored,  of  my 
Map  of  Tokio,  with  names,  and  notes,  historical  and 
explanatory,  in  English.  These  he  thankfully  ap- 
preciated. 

Mr.  Harris  was  one  of  the  founders  of  the  New 
York  Society  for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty  to 
Animals.  He  held  also  honorary  membership  in 
various  European  and  American  learned  and  sci- 
entific societies. 

He  died,  after  a  short  illness,  February  25, 1878, 
and  was  buried  in  Greenwood  Cemetery,  Brooklyn, 
three  days  later. 

Townsend  Harris  intended  the  treaty  he  made 
with  the  Japanese  to  be  just,  honorable,  fair ;  to 
protect  them  in  their  ignorance ;  to  remain  in  force 
only  during  their  childhood  of  experience,  but  to 
be  revised  after  July  1,  1872,  "  if  desired  by  either 
party." 

How  Japan  has  for  twenty  years  suffered  "  op- 
pression by  treaty,"  how  the  provisions  have  been 
altered  in  the  interests  of  European  nations  and 
to  the  detriment  of  Japan,  how  her  efforts  at  either 
revision   or  redress  have   been   steadily  repulsed, 


PEACEFUL  END.  331 

how  her  rights  have  been  trampled  upon  and  her 
wrongs  multiplied  by  a  delay,  every  hour  of  which 
is  injustice,  has  been  already  told  by  able  writers. 
Let  now  the  Japanese  speak  for  themselves  through 
the  editor  of  the  "  Tokumin  no  Tomo  "  (The  Na- 
tion's Friend).  In  a  recent  number  of  this  Tokio 
magazine  a  native  writer  says  :  — 

"  Why  is  the  United  States  the  true  friend  of  our 
nation  ?  We  do  not  need  to  repeat  the  story  of  Com- 
modore Perry  at  Uraga.  Then,  his  procedure  in- 
volved or  manifested  not  a  few  elements  of  disturb- 
ance and  confusion.  We  dare  not  give  our  gratitude 
to  Commodore  Perry  for  everything  he  did.  We 
cannot  do  that.  But  let  us  consider  the  commer- 
cial treaty,  which,  though  not  in  any  sense  perfect, 
yet  contains  the  guaranties  of  our  national  inter- 
ests, which  restrict  the  English,  Russian,  German, 
and  French  powers  so  that  they  cannot  go  further 
in  their  arbitrariness  than  the  limits  specified  in 
the  treaty.  In  all  this  matter,  who  is  the  influen- 
tial one?  However  many  patriots  there  be  who 
demand  the  revision  of  the  treaties,  they  ought  to 
shed  tears  of  gratitude  for  Townsend  Harris,  the 
author  of  the  Anse'i  (a.  d.  1854-59)  treaty.  Is  it 
not  a  fact  that  he  gave  us  more  freedom  than  we 
find  in  the  treaties  to-day,  even  when  we  have  the 
National  Diet,  in  which  the  nation's  voice  is  heard  ? 
Though  the  present  tariff  is,  on  the  average,  less 
than  five  per  cent.,  yet  in  the  document  drawn  up 


332         SUCCESS,  EEPOSE,  AND  HONORS. 

by  Mr.  Harris  this  five  per  cent,  tariff  was  limited 
to  steam-machinery,  lumber,  ships'  supplies,  coal, 
flour,  zinc,  and  lead.  All  kinds  of  liquors  were  to 
be  charged  thirty-five  per  cent.,  while  all  other 
things  were  to  pay  twenty  per  cent.  These  gener- 
ous arrangements  were  made  by  our  benefactor. 
Whether  a  high  tariff  is  still  necessary  to  our 
country  or  not  is  not  now  our  question.  At  this 
moment,  we  desire  only  to  express  our  satisfaction 
with  his  generous  proposition  at  such  a  time,  when 
the  Shogun's  officers  were  effeminate  and  ignorant. 
Had  he  chosen,  he  could  have  done  us  a  most  ter- 
rible injury,  like  a  lion  ravaging  sheep.  Such  an 
instinct  the  honest  spirit  of  Townsend  Harris  com- 
manded him  to  repress. 

"  Moreover,  he  said  (in  later  years)  concerning 
the  fiction  of  law  called  jlgwai-hoken :  '  The  extra- 
territoriality given  to  the  people  of  the  United 
States  who  are  in  Japan  is  against  my  conscience. 
Ah !  am  I  not  to  see  the  day  when  these  unjust 
treaties  shall  be  abrogated  before  I  die?'  His 
deep  sorrow  in  the  bottom  of  his  heart  may  be 
imagined.  When  we  think  of  those  ministers  of 
European  powers  who  have  indulged  their  covet- 
ousness,  taking  advantage  of  a  crisis  in  our  national 
history  as  their  opportunity;  when  we  think  of 
their  selfishness  and  thoughtlessness  in  availing 
themselves  of   the   alarm   of  our  people  and  the 


PEACEFUL  END.  333 

timidity  of  the  Shogun's  officers ;  when  we  think 
of  their  making  our  extremity  their  gain  by  over- 
reaching us,  —  we  know  not  what  to  say.  All 
the  more  can  we  see  the  abounding  friendship 
of  the  United  States  for  the  Land  of  the  Eising 
Sun." 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

JAPAN  AT  THE  END  OF  THE  CENTURY. 

On  the  8th  day  of  May,  1895,  we  pen  a  final 
chapter.  Two  coincident  events  compel  contrast 
between  the  hermit  nation  of  Townsend  Harris's 
day  and  the  new  Asiatic  power  of  our  own  times. 
Then,  deception  and  weakness  hobbled  behind  a 
fence  of  shams.  Now,  truth  and  strength  walk 
together  in  the  highway.  On  this  day,  triumphant 
Japan  and  humbled  China,  at  Chi-fu,  ratify  a 
treaty  of  peace.  At  this  date,  also,  lies  on  our 
table  Japan's  ninth  annual  revelation  of  facts.  The 
Imperial  government  now  openly  publishes,  to  the 
full  measure  of  its  ability  to  furnish,  what  once  was 
wholly  concealed.  The  "  Resume  Statistique  de 
l'Empire  du  Japan,"  issued  yearly  by  the  Emper- 
or's Cabinet,  is  a  manual  of  statistics  that  delights 
alike  the  critical  student  and  the  lover  of  truth. 
It  is  a  storehouse  of  facts  and  a  revelation  of  the 
national  resources,  such  as  Townsend  Harris  craved. 

The  presence  of  the  alien  on  the  soil  of  Japan 
shattered  anarchy,  and  compelled  national  unity. 
In  Kioto,  February  3,  1868,  the  era  of  Meiji  and 
of  united  Nippon  began.     We  may  freely  trans- 


AT  THE  END  OF  THE  CENTURY.  335 

late  the  chronological  term  Meiji  as  "enlightened 
appropriation  "  of  the  ideas  and  arts  of  Christen- 
dom. Yet  neither  by  native  genius  and  energy, 
nor  by  alien  pressure  and  importation,  were  those 
results  of  peace,  war,  and  diplomacy,  which  to-day 
astonish  the  world,  attained ;  but  rather  by  intelli- 
gent union  of  the  two. 

There  is  no  actual  mystery  in  this  marvelous 
transformation  of  a  nation.  Japan  has  never  ceased 
borrowing  religions,  arts,  sciences,  weapons,  and 
instruments,  despite  the  fact  that  her  powers  of 
assimilation  amount  to  positive  genius,  while  her 
ability  to  improve  is  marked.  Two  hundred  years 
of  Dutch  leaven,  the  work  of  Townsend  Harris,  the 
presence  of  a  small  army  of  American  teachers, 
missionaries,  and  engineers,  numbering  possibly 
twelve  hundred,  with  "  hired  foreigners "  from 
many  lands,  are  facts  in  history  which  neither  the 
admiring  rhapsodist  from  afar,  nor  the  conceit- 
swollen  son  of  the  soil,  must  forget.  Under  Divine 
Providence,  Japan,  with  both  natives  and  aliens  as 
instruments,  seems  to  have  been  chosen  to  recon- 
cile in  one  the  Oriental  and  Occidental  civilizations. 

In  this  end  of  the  century,  the  Japanese  do  not 
like  to  be  called  in  English  "  natives  "  even  of  their 
own  country.  This  is  owing  to  the  bad  transla- 
tions and  wrong  associations  of  the  word,  which, 
in  their  first  dictionaries,  are  those  akin  to  ours  of 
"  aborigines  "  and  "  heathen."     Similar  other  fool- 


336         SUCCESS,  BEPOSE,  AND  HONORS. 

ish  notions  will  be  corrected  when  they  know  the 
English  language  better,  just  as  some  of  ours  will 
be  when  we  and  the  Japanese,  who  can  teach  us . 
many  things,  shall  have  been  better  acquainted. 

Even  the  title  "  Mikado  "  is  obsolete  in  popular 
speech  and  writing.  Instead  of  a  hermit  inside  of 
a  walled  garden  in  secluded  Kioto,  the  chief  ruler 
of  the  Empire  is  the  active  governor  of  his  people. 
They  speak  of  him  as  "  the  Emperor."  We  who 
talk  English  shall  continue  to  honor  him  by  his 
ancient  title.  The  word  "  Mikado  "  separates  the 
chief  magistrate  and  the  greatest  servant  of  Japan 
from  the  crowds  of  "crowned"  heads  that  are 
found  in  all  continents  except  America. 

In  a  thousand  ways  the  Japanese  have  come  to 
know  their  power,  —  artistic,  manufacturing,  com- 
mercial, political,  and  military.  They  are  the  one 
aesthetic  nation  of  Asia.  All  the  world  knows  that 
they  love  things  beautiful,  and  especially  the  fine 
art  of  good  manners.  The  Centennial  year  of  1876, 
at  Philadelphia,  first  revealed  to  the  American 
people  the  genius  of  their  trans-Pacific  neighbors. 
At  the  "World's  Columbian  Exposition  at  Chicago, 
in  1893,  the  former  glory  was  eclipsed.  In  1876, 
these  islanders,  who  were  so  far  east  of  us  as  to 
come  from  the  west,  sent  seventeen  hundred  and 
thirty  tons  of  products  to  show  and  sell.  In  1893, 
six  thousand  tons  were  sent  to  what  was  their 
fourteenth  exhibition  abroad  since  that  at  Vienna 


AT  THE  END  OF  THE  CENTURY.  337 

in  1873.  At  Philadelphia  we  saw  a  collection,  at 
Chicago  a  selection.  The  American  people  were 
given  fresh  surprises. 

The  Japanese  left  on  Wooded  Island,  in  Jack- 
son Park,  one  of  the  few  existing  memorials  of  the 
White  City.  On  a  small  scale,  three  styles  of 
architecture  and  as  many  epochs  of  national  taste 
are  represented  in  the  edifice.  The  ground-plan 
follows  that  of  the  Phoenix  Temple  in  Kioto.  The 
right  wing  shows  how  a  Court  noble's  palace  looked 
when  the  great  cathedrals  of  Europe  were  rising, 
between  1000  and  1200  a.  d.  Nails,  metal  hinges, 
sliding  partitions,  and  matting  were  not  yet  in  use. 
In  the  left  wing  we  see  the  advance  of  luxury  in 
the  times  of  Ashikaga,  1300-1600  A.  D.  Then  pa- 
pered walls,  matting-covered  floors,  partitions,  and 
ornamental  building  hardware  had  come  into  vogue. 
The  main  portion  represents  a  typical  nobleman's 
dwelling  in  Tokugawa  days,  from  A.  D.  1600  to 
1850.  The  decorations  on  ceiling  and  wall,  with 
most  of  the  interior  details,  are  historically  correct. 
The  splendid  and  varied  products  of  the  soil  and 
waters,  the  art  and  handicraft  of  Japan,  astonished 
all  visitors.  A  new  and  more  intelligent  interest 
was  awakened  in  the  minds  of  Americans  concern- 
ing the  people  who  were  hermits  only  a  generation 


The  ambition  of  the  Japanese  is   not   only  to 
secure  recognition  of  equality  with   civilized   na- 


338         SUCCESS,   REPOSE,  AND  HONORS. 

tions,  but  to  take  a  place  in  the  very  front  rank. 
With  any  inferior  place  they  will  not  be  content. 
Yet,  except  those  who  had  personally  aided  them 
to  win  the  secrets  of  the  West,  few  foreigners  were 
prepared  for  the  exhibition  which  Japan  gave  the 
world  of  her  commercial  and  military  power  in 
1894.  The  struggle  of  modern  times  is  a  fight  for 
trade.  In  this,  with  brains  and  pen,  machinery  and 
bayonets,  the  Japanese  have  won  and  are  winning. 

Cotton  is  still  one  of  the  kings.  Almost  the 
only  muslin  woven  under  Tai-kun  or  Mikado,  until 
1875,  was  by  women  on  hand-looms  at  home.  Now 
in  fifty  mills,  working  by  steam  or  water  power, 
millions  of  spindles,  plus  brain  and  hands,  weave 
acres  of  snowy  cotton  cloth.  Sending  out  their 
ships,  wares,  and  consuls  in  every  direction,  the 
Japanese  are  now  competing  with  the  British  for  a 
lion-like  share  of  the  world's  trade.  They  have  al- 
ready made  vast  progress  in  Korea,  China,  India, 
and  Australia.  Over  one  half  of  their  commerce 
is  with  English-speaking  nations.  American  raw 
cotton  is  now  imported  by  thousands  of  bales.  In 
bulk  of  trade  with  Japan  the  United  States  still 
leads  all  nations,  but  England  still  sells  most  goods. 
The  island  Empire,  which  was  once  poor  and 
"  hardly  worth  trading  with,"  enjoyed  in  1894  a 
total  foreign  trade  of  230,000,000  yen,  or  about 
$185,000,000  in  gold. 

Old  Japan  of  Mr.  Harris's  days   has  vanished, 


AT  THE  END   OF  THE  CENTURY.  339 

and  in  New  Japan  life  is  more  than  worth  living 
for  the  average  man.  Such  popular  freedom  and 
advantages  were  never  before  known.  Instead 
of  the  caste,  monopoly,  cramping  laws,  repressive 
customs,  and  cruel  government  of  former  days, 
the  common  people  live  in  a  new  world  of  rights, 
privileges,  and  possibilities.  New  institutions, 
codes,  and  ideals  have  come  in.  The  land  is  for 
the  most  part  owned  by  the  men  who  till  the 
soil.  The  courts  are  open  to  every  one,  and  justice 
is  cheap  and  easy  to  obtain.  Schools  invite  all  to 
enter.  Once  only  samurai  could  be  soldiers  ;  now 
the  army  and  navy  are  filled  without  regard  to 
class  by  enthusiastic  conscripts.  The  men  are  well 
fed,  well  paid,  well  taught,  and  well  nursed  in 
time  of  sickness.  The  old  sectional  jealousies,  sec- 
tarian bigotries,  and  political  hatreds  are  vanish- 
ing. Wealth,  comfort,  happiness,  national  unity, 
and  population  are  steadily  on  the  increase.  With 
over  two  thousand  miles  of  railway,  with  tele- 
graphs, lighthouses,  post-offices,  newspapers,  sav- 
ings banks,  hospitals,  and  most  of  the  appliances 
of  modern  civilization,  life  seems  very  rich  and  full 
to  the  lad  and  lass  born  in  this  "  era  of  Meiji " 
(1868-1895 +  ). 

Japanese  travelers  and  enterprising  adventurers 
are  now  found  in  many  countries.  Immigrants  by 
thousands  dwell  in  Hawaii,  the  United  States,  Aus- 
tralia, Mexico,  Korea,  China,  and  in  British,  Rus- 


340         SUCCESS,  BEPOSE,   AND  HONOBS. 

sian,  Dutch,  Spanish,  and  French  Asia.  With  her 
population  increasing  at  the  rate  of  over  half  a  mil- 
lion a  year,  it  is  necessary  for  Japan  to  expand  and 
colonize.  Her  desire  and  ability  to  do  both  are 
manifest.  These  facts  explain  in  part  also  why  so 
small  a  nation  did  not  hesitate,  when  peace  seemed 
no  longer  possible,  to  go  to  war  with  colossal 
China. 

When  in  1870  the  Japanese  abolished  feudalism, 
they  rejected  also  most  of  the  ideas  of  government 
and  society  borrowed  from  China  and  from  Confu- 
cius and  his  commentators,  and  adopted  those  of 
the  Western  World.  China,  her  pride  deeply  in- 
jured, and  disapproving  of  the  change  in  her  former 
pupil,  at  once  became  sulky,  jealous,  and  hostile. 
Furthermore,  with  Great  Britain,  Russia,  and 
France  so  earth-hungry  and  ambitious,  and  busily 
engaged  in  swallowing  up  Asia,  and  refusing  to 
revise  the  odious  treaties,  it  was  necessary  for 
Japan  to  arm  for  defense.  Quietly  and  steadily, 
forts,  arsenals,  and  dockyards  were  built  and  fur- 
nished. The  finest  arms  and  ships  were  bought  in 
Europe,  and  hundreds  of  young  men  educated  in 
the  military  and  naval  schools  abroad.  A  truly 
national  army  was  raised  by  conscription.  All  eli- 
gible male  subjects  were  enrolled  in  the  active 
or  reserve  forces. 

With  modern  tactics,  strategy,  camps,  and  actual 
movements  in  the  field,  a  high  state  of  military 


AT  THE  END  OF  THE  CENTURY.         341 

efficiency  was  obtained.  By  1893,  it  was  possible 
and  safe  to  dismiss  foreign  assistants,  for  steel  war- 
ships could  be  built  and  armies  drilled,  equipped, 
provisioned,  and  led  by  natives.  In  1894,  two 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  experienced  soldiers 
and  sailors,  burning  with  patriotism,  were  at  the 
service  of  the  Mikado  to  resist  robber  nations,  and 
to  compel  the  respect  of  the  Powers. 

No  cloud-sign  of  war,  however,  even  as  big 
as  a  man's  hand,  rose  above  the  horizon  in  1893. 
Industry  thrived,  literature  bloomed  afresh,  and 
in  politics  progress  was  made  toward  true  na- 
tional unity.  On  the  9th  of  February,  1894,  the 
silver  wedding  of  the  Emperor  and  Empress  was 
celebrated  with  national  rejoicings.  Flowers, 
arches,  processions,  festivals,  and  congratulations 
made  a  picture  of  joy  like  that  in  the  fairy  tales. 
Two  new  postage-stamps  were  issued  to  commemo- 
rate the  happy  day.  Both  were  of  unusual  size. 
They  bore  as  symbols  of  felicity  a  pair  of  phoenix 
birds,  the  cherry-blossom  or  national  flower,  and 
the  imperial  chrysanthemum.  The  legend,  "  Im- 
perial Wedding,  25th  Anniversary,"  was  printed 
in  English  and  Chinese  letters.  Pink  (2  sen)  and 
blue  (5  sen)  were  the  colors  chosen.  For  the  first 
time  the  Imperial  husband  and  wife  rode  side  by 
side  in  an  open  carriage.  By  this  public  act  Chi- 
nese prejudices  were  shocked,  and  advance  was 
made  toward  Christian  ideas  of  honor  to  woman. 


342         SUCCESS,   REPOSE,   AND  HONORS. 

The  Mikado's  son,  Yoshihito,  is  the  crown  prince, 
born  August  31,  1877.  He  is  a  bright  and  prom- 
ising young  man,  who  is  likely  to  continue  his 
father's  policy  of  progress. 

It  was  not  a  new  thing  in  Asiatic  history  when 
China  and  Japan  began  hostilities  in  the  summer 
of  1894,  but  it  was  in  a  wholly  novel  way.  Each 
published  a  formal  declaration,  and  appealed  to 
the  sympathies  of  Christendom.  Japan  proceeded 
according  to  international  law,  and  with  scientific 
and  Christian-like  methods.  A  superb  hospital 
corps,  trained  nurses,  the  Red  Cross  Society,  and 
the  absence  of  privateers  were  noticed.  In  old 
Japanese  times  the  wounded  in  battle  committed 
suicide,  were  left  to  die  on  the  field,  or  received 
only  blacksmith  surgery.     These  days  are  over. 

What  caused  the  war  ?  Which  side  began  it  ? 
Why  was  China  so  ready  to  provoke  while  so 
poorly  prepared  for  war?  Why  was  Japan  so 
alert,  eager,  well  prepared,  and  so  quickly  and 
steadily  successful  ? 

The  bone  of  contention  was  Korea.1  Japan 
first,  followed  by  the  United  States  and  the  other 
Powers,  made  treaties  with  Cho-sen,  recognizing 
her  as  an  independent  and  sovereign  state.  Not- 
withstanding this,  the  Peking  government  at- 
tempted to  keep  Korea  under  Chinese  influence 
and  power.     Early  in  1894,  a  widespread  rebellion 

1  So  all  scholars  now  spell  the  name. 


AT  THE  END  OF  THE  CENTURY.  343 

broke  out  in  the  southern  provinces  of  Korea, 
which  the  King  was  unable  to  put  down.  The 
pro-Chinese  faction  in  Seoul  asked  for  Chinese  aid 
to  help  suppress  the  rebels,  called  Tong  Haks. 
China  was  only  too  ready  to  do  so ;  but,  by  sending 
troops  before  notifying  Japan,  the  Chinese,  in  the 
first  place,  broke  the  treaty  of  1885.  By  speaking 
of  Korea,  in  the  dispatch  to  Tokio,  as  "  our  subject 
state,"  the  Peking  government  struck  at  the  treaties 
and  at  Korean  sovereignty.  The  Mikado  at  once 
sent  his  envoy,  Mr.  Otori,  to  Seoul,  accompanied 
by  General  Oshima's  mixed  brigade,  to  inquire  of 
the  King  in  person  whether  Korea  was  an  indepen- 
dent state.  The  answer  was  "  Yes."  The  Japan- 
ese now  made  a  proposition  to  the  Chinese  govern- 
ment to  undertake  jointly  the  reform  of  Korean 
finance  and  polity.  Pending  the  peaceful  settle- 
ment of  this  and  other  questions  long  in  debate, 
notice  was  given  that  the  dispatch  of  any  more 
Chinese  troops  into  Korea  would  be  considered  an 
act  of  war. 

China  refused  the  proposition  of  Japan,  de- 
manded the  recall  of  her  soldiers,  and  began  to 
send  on  more  ships  and  men.  The  Japanese,  not 
to  be  surprised  or  outnumbered,  hurried  forward 
an  army  corps.  The  Naniwa  sunk  the  Chinese 
transport  Kow-shing  because  her  crew  refused  to 
surrender.  The  first  land  battle  was  fought  on 
the   27th  of   July,   when    the   Japanese   infantry, 


344         SUCCESS,  REPOSE,   AND  HONORS. 

after  victory  in  the  open  field,  drove  the  Chinese 
out  of  A-san. 

War  was  declared  by  both  Sons  of  Heaven  on 
either  side  of  the  Yellow  Sea,  August  1.  Rein- 
forcements from  both  countries  were  poured  in, 
meeting  at  Ping-yang.  In  the  great  battle  fought 
September  16  the  Chinese  were  routed.  The  naval 
trial  of  valor  and  skill  between  steel-clad  men-of- 
war,  in  which  the  Japanese  were  victorious,  took 
place  the  next  day.  When  the  sun  rose  on  Korea 
the  first  day  of  October,  it  shone  on  no  Chinese. 
One  of  the  finest  of  modern  armies  was  pursuing  a 
mob  in  Manchuria.  The  war  soon  became  a  monot- 
onous and  one-sided  story  of  the  success  of  "  pig- 
mies "  against  "  tigers  "  and  "  giants."  The  sun- 
banner  waved  in  Continental  Asia  over  a  territory 
larger  than  the  Japanese  Empire. 

For  twenty  years  China  had  been  draining  her 
treasury  to  fortify  the  sea-gates  leading  to  her  cap- 
ital. Hundreds  of  millions  of  dollars  had  been 
spent  in  building  and  arming  the  forts  at  Port 
Arthur,  W£i-hai-w£i,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Taku 
River.  While  the  First  Army  of  Japan  was  fight- 
ing in  Manchuria,  the  Second  Army  captured  Port 
Arthur. 

The  Third  Army  took  Wei-hai-wei.  The  Fourth 
Army  occupied  Pescadores  Islands  and  Formosa  in 
March  and  April.  The  Chinese  sued  for  peace. 
By  the  treaty  made  at  Shimonoseki,  Premier  Ito 


AT  THE  END   OF  THE  CENTURY.  345 

and  Li  Hung  Chang,  acting  as  plenipotentiaries, 
Formosa  becomes  part  of  the  Japanese  Empire; 
and  Korea  promises  to  follow,  according  to  her 
ability,  the  example  of  Japan  in  improvement  and 
reform.  Will  China  now  accept  that  one  civiliza- 
tion before  which  all  others  must  fall  ? 

Japan,  one  of  the  great  powers  of  the  world, 
is  now  recognized  in  the  fraternity  of  civilized 
nations.  The  two  English-speaking  peoples  led 
the  way  in  treaty  revision.  After  twenty-two  years 
of  protest  and  discussion,  the  Japanese  have  won 
their  case.  On  the  26th  of  August,  Lord  Kim- 
berly  and  Viscount  Mutsu  in  London,  and  on 
November  22,  1894,  Secretary  Gresham  and  Min- 
ister Kurino  at  Washington,  signed  the  new  trea- 
ties. These  abolish  what  is  called  extra-territori- 
ality.  What  the  Japanese  at  first  granted  so 
quickly  and  gladly  they  repented  of  longest  and 
most  bitterly ;  but  soon  consular  courts  in  Japan 
will  be  no  more.  The  Senate  of  the  United  States, 
on  the  8th  of  December,  1894,  ratified  the  Ameri- 
can treaty,  which  will  go  in  force  before  the  open- 
ing of  the  twentieth  century.  How  Mr.  Harris, 
whom  the  Japanese  called  "  The  Nation's  Friend," 
would  have  rejoiced  to  see  this  act  of  .justice 
done! 


INDEX. 


Abe,  Ise*  no  Kami,  112,  1G5. 

Adams,  Will,  33. 

Agriculture,  67,  72,  156,  158. 

Alcock,  Sir  Rutherford,  318. 

Amagi  San,  186,  190. 

Ambassador,  32,  206. 

American  influence  in  Japan,  2,  32, 

223,  310. 
Ansei  era,  43,  115,  319. 
Architecture,  77,  116,  118,  218. 
Armstrong,   Commodore,   21,  22,  35, 

36,  49,  50-52,  56,  146,  149,  152,  157, 

163,  167, 168,  169. 
Army,  344. 

Art  and  handiwork,  27,  154, 159,  175. 
Ashikaga,  191. 
Aston,  Mr.  W.  G.,  30,  151. 
Audience  of  the  Tai-kun,  228-230. 
Audience  question,  161,  162,  163,  172, 

173,  178,  179,  221,  222. 

Bakufu,  118, 121,  208,  294,  295,  323. 

Balestier,  Mr.,  18,  25. 

Banriu,  193. 

Bathing  customs,  80,  159,  185. 

Beggars,  74-76,  193. 

Bedell,  Bishop  G.  F.,  12. 

Bell,  Captain,  21,  22,  36,  39,  40,  41, 

57,  168. 
Bingham,  Hon.  John  A.,  208. 
Bittinger,  Rev.  E.  C,  180. 
Bolivar,  8. 

Books,  121,  143,  146,  242,  260. 
Bowring,  Sir  John,  321. 
Bryce,  James,  Prof.,  32. 
Buchanan,  President,  23, 135,  317,  323. 
Buddhism,  23,  322. 
Burgoyne,  General  John,  1. 

Calendar,  100. 
Cannibals,  14,  16. 
Cannon,  74,  90,  94,  111,  143,  279. 
Casembroot,  Admiral,  69. 
Cass,  Hon.  Lewis,  312,  314. 
Cats,  26,  27,  72. 
Cemeteries,  37,  43,  60. 
Cha  no  yu,  110,  111,  220,  230. 
Chamberlain,  Prof.   B.  H.,  30,  151, 
198. 


Charts,  82. 

Cheese,  37. 

Chicago,  27. 

Children,  76,  196. 

China,  15,  117,  236,  238,  310,  317. 

Chinese,  90,  91,  96,  100,  109,  173,  174, 

236,  238,  260. 
Chop-sticks,  234. 
Christianity,  61,  120,  223,  224. 
Christmas,  14,  98-100,  120,  244. 
Chronology,  117. 
Clarke,  Judge,  23. 
Cleanliness,  41. 
Clothes,  55,  98, 106, 183,  184,  209,  219, 

224-232,  256. 
Coal,  27,  267,  269. 
Coinage,  113,  114,  128,  132. 
College  of  the  City  of  New  York,  10. 
Commissioners,  206. 
Confucius,  260. 

Consular  courts,  124,  150,  160. 
Consuls,  124,  138,  148,  266,  298. 
Cotton,  78,  79,  148,  155,  156. 
Council  of  State,  142,  164,  165,  211, 

215,  228,  243,  287,  306,  314. 
Cross,  224,  235,  264. 
Crucifixion,  235,  236. 
Cullum,  Gen.  Geo.  W.,  326. 
Currency  question,  105,  113,  114,  129, 

132,  136,  138,  150,  160. 
Curtius,  Mr.  H.  Donker,  178,  264,  307, 

312,  315. 

Daimios,  206,  292-295,  296,  297. 

Daley,  Judge  C.  P.,  326. 

De  Graeff,  Governor,  144. 

De  Quincey,  Miss,  23. 

De  Witt,  Rev.  Thomas,  20. 

Decoration  Day,  148. 

D^shima,  125, 126,  137,  141,  181,  233, 

264. 
Dewa  no  Kami,  178. 
Diana,  Russian    frigate,  60,    86,    90, 

143. 
Dierst,  Rev.  W.  F.,  149. 
Diet,  Imperial,  295. 
Doctors,  195,  196,  233,  312. 
Dogs,  255,  266. 
Dougherty,  Mr.,  133,  147,  176. 


348 


INDEX. 


Droppers,  Prof.  Garret,  76. 

Dutch,  20,  30,  34,  08,  69,  74,  75,  121, 
125-128,  136,  142,  144,  151,  161,  178, 
181,  188,  196,  224,  233,  243,  255,  272, 
301,  312,  315,  316. 

Earthquakes,  34,  43,  73,  78,  214,  300. 

Easter,  141,  142. 

Echizen,  293,  294. 

Elgin,  Lord,  318,  321,  322. 

Emperor,  336. 

English,  87,  88. 

English  language,  2,  120,  148,  151. 

Etiquette,  49,  50,  55,  56,  211,  212,  219, 
230 

Eulenberg,  Count,  322. 

Extra-territoriality,  124.  See  Consu- 
lar Courts. 

Fabius,  Captain,  69,  89,  125,  137. 

Fankwei,  26,  152. 

Fans,  185,  234. 

Fauna.     See  Natural  History. 

Favored  nation,  258,  315. 

Feudal  system,  50,  118-120,  292-295. 

Fireworks,  74. 

Flag  of  Japan,  33,  94,  194. 

Flag  of  the  United  States,  22,  26,  58, 

60,  94,  167,  182,  200. 
Flowers,  73,  79,  149,  296,  297. 
Food,  37,  55,  66,  67,  71,  106,  109,  212. 
Foote,  Rear  Admiral  A.  H.,  168-172. 
Formosa,  16,  27,  71,  329. 
Franklin,  Doctor  Benj.,  29. 
Fraser,  General,  1. 
French,  5,  87,  88,  321. 
Fuji  San,  2,  30,  67,  187,  197,  222. 
Fujisawa,  193-196. 
Fuji-Yama.    See  Fuji  San. 
Fukui,  261,  271. 

Goats,  37. 
Gold,  154,  155. 
Golownin,  75. 

Grant,  General  U.  S.,  326-328. 
Gregg,  Hon.  David  F.,  135. 
'Gresham,  Secretary  W.  Q. ,  236. 

Habersham,  Lieut.  S.  W.,  81. 

Hakodate-,  133,  134,  162,  169,  176, 
305. 

Hakone-,  189-191. 

Hakuzan,  30. 

Hall,  Mr.  Edward  F.,  135,  136,  138. 

Hamersly,  Mr.  T.  H.,  326. 

Hara-kiri,  82,  92,  235,  300,  313. 

Harbors,  33,  250,  267,  270,  271,  280. 

Harris  family,  3,  4. 

Harris,  Townsend,  ancestry,  3,  4 ; 
birth,  4 ;  early  life,  5 ;  his  mother, 
6,  7  ;  political  opinions,  6 ;  unmar- 
ried, 8  ;  life  in  New  York,  8-12,  91 ; 
Free  Academy,  10 ;  religious  views, 
11 ;    trading  voyages,   12,    13,   16 ; 


travel  homewards,  17 ;  personal 
habits,  23 ;  his  temperance,  23 ; 
treaty  with  Siam,  25,  26 ;  exposes  a 
sham,  26 ;  emotions  on  seeing  Japan, 
28;  his  Sundays,  38,  40,  51,  93; 
hints  at  use  of  force,  130  ;  birth- 
day, 175  ;  starts  for  Yedo,  182  ;  as- 
serts his  dignity,  190 ;  in  Yedo,  201  ; 
treaty  made,  312;  leaves  Yedo  for 
Shimoda,  312 ;  sickness,  313 ;  re- 
turn to  Yedo,  313 ;  threatens  to 
go  to  Kioto,  314 ;  returns  again  to 
Shimoda,  316 ;  trip  to  China,  322  ; 
appointed  Minister  Resident,  322  ; 
sticks  to  his  post  in  Yedo,  322  ;  as- 
sists Lord  Elgin,  322  ;  resigns  his 
office,  324 ;  return  home,  325 ;  in 
New  York,  326-330. 

Hayashi,  Professor,  206,  210,  222,  311. 

Hemp,  79. 

Heusken,  Mr.  C.  J.,  20,  21,  30,  56,  65, 
92,  98,  164,  169,  174,  183,  199,  204, 
225,  262,  323. 

Hildreth,  2,  224. 

History  of  Japan,  115-122. 

Ho-jo,  188,  191. 

Holland,  20,  70. 

Hondo,  61,  117,  267,  270. 

Hong-Kong,  27,  169,  280. 

Horses,  71,  91,  92,  98,  194,  195,  209, 
216,  225,  241. 

Hosmer,  Captain,  135,  137,  138. 

House,  Mr.  E.  H.,  329. 

Hotta,  Bitcliiu  no  Kami,  112,  207,  214, 
215,  217-222,  228,  231,  249,  298,  312, 
314,  317. 

Hydrography,  82,  242. 

Idzu,  30,  36,  158,  192. 

Ii,  Kamon  no  Kami,  310,  317, 320,  321, 

323. 
India",  17,  23, 156,  187,  193,  194,  220, 

311. 
Infanticide,  76. 

Interpreters,  20,  34,  35,  42,  221,  301. 
Iwase",  Higo  no  Kami,  253,  320,  321. 
Iye"mochi,  317. 
Iy^sada,  316,  317. 
Iy<5yasu,  119,  190,  281,  292-295,  311, 

316. 

Japanese  embassy  to  America,  323. 
Japanese  language,  151,  301. 
Japanese  moral  traits,  105,  111,  115, 

117. 
Japanese  physical  traits,  108, 158,  159, 

198. 
Japanese  servants,    61,  62,    67,  146, 

220. 
Japanese  simplicity  of  life,  154,  204, 

232  234 
Japanese  social  traits,  180,  189,  198, 

199,  204,  303. 
Junks,  30,  95,  192. 


INDEX. 


349 


Kaempfer,  65,  66,  188,  192,  193,  197, 

269. 
Kaga,  297,  300. 
Kamakura,  118,  188. 
Kami,  75,  206,  218,  293. 
Kanagawa,   197,   206,   207,  322.     See 

Treaty  of. 
Katsu  Awa,  323. 
Kawasaki,  180,  197-200. 
Kii,  286,  293,  303,  317. 
Kikuna,  182. 
Kimberly,  Lord,  345. 
Kioto,  19,  27,  118,  120,  269,  274,  275, 

313,  314. 
Kitashirakawa,  Prince,  310. 
Kiushiu,  27,  29. 
Knox,  Dr.  Geo.  Wm,  119,  260. 
Korea,  28,  81,  84,  109,  116,  156,  179. 
Kow-shing,  343. 
Kudan,  205. 
Kug(5,  293,  294. 
Kurino,  Minister,  345. 

Laws  of  Japan,  54,  75,  76. 
Lease  of  grounds,  125. 
Leeches,  195. 

Legation  in  Yedo,  322-325. 
Licentiousness,  109,  115. 
Lighthouses,  27,  33,  82. 
Li  Hung  Chang,  262. 
Lincoln,  President,  18,  324. 
Lingas,  194. 
Linschoten,  28. 
Literature  of  Japan,  143,  146. 
Luhdorf,  Mr.,  162. 

Lying,  17,  63,"  132,  133,  136,  156,  158, 
257,  300. 

Machinery,  79,  156. 

Malay  influence,  82,  108,  116. 

Manchuria,  344. 

Maps,  66,  235,  243. 

Marcy,  Hon.  Wm.  L.,  17,  18,  33,  177. 

Matthews,    Professor    Brander,   328, 

329. 
Mattoon,  Mr.,  171. 
McDonald,  Mr.  Ronald,  2,  171. 
Mediation  of  the  United  States,  299. 
Medicines,  90,  91,  195,  233. 
Medusa,  Dutch  frigate,  68,  69,  70,  126, 

M&ji,  era  of,  77,  339. 

Messenger  Bird,  135-139. 

Mexico,  322. 

Miako,  267,  269,  288. 

Michelet,  2. 

Mikado,  117,  121,  122,  270,  288,  292, 

300,  313,  319. 
Minamoto,  281. 
Mint,  128,  132. 
Mishima,  188,  189,  192. 
Missionaries,  160. 
Mississippi,  U.  S.  S.  S.,  319,  322. 


Mito,  293,  302,  311. 

Money,  59,  65,  105,  113,  114,  143,  150, 

263,  279. 
Morals,  105. 
Moriyama  Yenosuke\  59,  61-63,  128, 

130,  140-142. 
Morse,  Prof.  E.,  109,  173,  178. 
Mosquitoes,  58. 
Mourning,  297. 
Mutsu,  Count,  345. 

Nagasaki,  2,  124,  125,  150,  159,  188, 

196,  224,  233,  271,  303,  312. 
Nakamura,  D6wa  no  Kami,  159,  180, 

181. 
Naniwa,  22. 
Natives,  335. 
Natural  history,  24,  26,  27,  36,  37,  59, 

60,  71,  72,  73,  79,  157. 
Navy  of  Japan,  33,  69,  197,  237. 
Neesima,  Dr.  Joseph,  193. 
New  Year's  Day,  99,   100,  104,  106, 

246,  284. 
Niigata,  270,  271,  303. 
Nishiki-ye\  176. 
Nitobe,   Dr.   Inazo,  2,   32,   215,   262, 

323. 
Nobility,  292-295. 
Norimono,  50,  108,  183,  184,  190,  191, 

200,  209,  219. 

Odawara,  191,  192. 

Ogiso,  188. 

Oiso,  193. 

Okubo,  Ichio,  32. 

Oliphant,  Laurence,  151. 

Opium,  90,  91. 

Osaka,  22,  267,  270,  275,  276,  280,  282, 

292. 
Osborne,  Captain  S.,  318. 
Oshima,  72,  151,  152,  186. 
Ota  do  Kuan,  2. 
Otori,  Minister,  343. 
Owari,  302. 

Parkes,  Sir  Harry  S.,  25,  152,  318. 

Penang,  14,  24,  195. 

Perry,  Commodore  M.  C,  15,  18,  19, 
35,  40,  42,  92,  102,  111,  116,  120, 
121,  133,  145, 192,  197,  206,  222,  254, 
257,  279,  318,  323. 

Phallic  worship,  194. 

Philadelphia,  336. 

Phrenologist,  307. 

Pierce,  President,  17,  18,  19,  177,  178. 

Ping-yang,  344. 

Policemen,  198,  202,  203. 

Pontaitine,  Admiral,  86. 

Population,  66,  76,  197. 

Port  Arthur,  344. 

Portman,  Mr.,  158. 

Ports,  267,  271,  275,  283. 

Portsmouth,  U.  S.  S.  S.,  167,  171,  172. 

Portuguese,  144,  145. 


350 


INDEX. 


Possiet,  Commodore,  84-88. 
Postage  stamps,  341. 
Powhatan,  U.  S.  S.  S.,  319,  322,  323. 
Presents,   25,  56,  175,  212,  235,  242, 

256. 
President's  letter,  162,  172,  174,  207, 

225  230. 
Preto'rinm,  118,  120,  121. 
Printing,  176. 
Prisons,  75,  76. 
Proverbs,  55. 
Pruyn,  Hon.  Robert,  324. 
Punishments,  75,  76. 

Rats,  60,  72. 

Reed,  Mr.,  133,  147,  176. 

Regents  in  Yedo,  140,  141. 

Representative  institutions,  295. 

Residence  of  aliens,  150. 

Resume"   Statistique  de  l'Empire  du 

Japan,  198. 
Rice,  Mr.  E.  E.,  162,  163,  165,  305. 
Richardson,  Mr.,  197. 
Roads,  185,  189,  190,  194,  199. 
Roberts,  Mr.  Edmund,  25. 
Rodgers,  Rear  Admiral  John,  81,  133, 

134. 
Roman  history,  118. 
Ro-nins,  261,  262,  286. 
Russians,  60,  61,  84-96,  272,  284,  306, 

321. 

Saint  Eustatius,  144. 

Sakai,  275,  280,  283. 

Sake",  91,  107,  110,  221. 

Salutes,  144,  148,  163,  169,  170,  279, 

290,  322,  323. 
Samurai,  98,  260,  261,  294. 
Sandy  Hill,  4,  326. 
San  Francisco,  171. 
San  Jacinto,  U.   S.  S.  S.,  21,  22,  24, 

56,  58,  64,  146,  152,  167,  168,  170. 
Saris,  Captain,  316. 
Satow,  Mr.  E.  M.,  30,  146. 
Satsuma,  142,  197,  293. 
Scenery,  72,  77,  156. 
Sebastopol,  87,  88. 
Seoul,  343. 

Seward,  Hon.  Win.  H.,  2,  18,  19,  324. 
Seymour,  Admiral,  169. 
Shimada,  Saburo,  Mr.,  319. 
Shimoda,  19,  33,  42,  46,  53,  64,  68,  78, 

86,  116,  185,  192,  205,  216,  257,  312, 

319. 
Shimonos6"ki,  Mr.,  141. 
Shimonos<5ki  battle,  68,  329. 
Shimonos^ki  treaty. 
Shinagawa,  200. 
Shinano  no  Kami,  173,  204-207,  213- 

215,  225,  228,  245,  247,  253,  278,  320, 

321 
Shintb,  37,  46,  47,  64,  194. 
Ship-building,  33,  69,  143,  197. 


Shogun,  118-120,  140-142,  179,  281. 
Siain,  18,  19,  25,  26,  85,  112,  121,  139, 

171,  176,  177. 
Sinall-pox,  196. 
Soshi,  262. 

Spaulding,  Mr.  J.  W.,  61. 
Spies,  99,  139,  241. 
Star  Spangled  Banner,  26. 
Statistics,  95,  141,  156,  198. 
Sumptuary  laws,  154. 
Sundays,  38,  40,  51,  93,  139,  180,  198, 

199,  223,  240,  301. 
Surveys,  81,  82. 
Swords,  107,  155,  261,  326-328. 
Symbolism,  50,  64,  106,  109,  110,  174, 

184,  233,  297. 

Tai-kun,  179,  229-232,  248,  293,  297, 

318 
Tariff,  284,  285,  304,  305. 
Tatnall,  Commodore,  319,  320,  321. 
Tea-making,  110,  111. 
Temples,  38,  39,  46,  64,  185,  189,  322. 
Things  Japanese,  80. 
Tigers,  27. 

Times,  New  York,  177. 
Tokaido,  188-199. 
Toke",  Tamba  no  Kami,  206,  210-212, 

219,  246. 
Tokio,  21,  78. 
Toko-no-ma,  109,  211,  221. 
Tokugawa,  281,  292,  294. 
Tokutomi,  310. 
Tonnage  of  Japan,  95,  284. 
Torture,  236. 
Transactions  of  the  Asiatic  Society  of 

Japan,  67,  72,  76,  119. 
Trays,  211,  212,  221,  231,  234,  235. 
Treaties,  75,  85,  86,  94,  123-130,  159, 

160,  315,  322,  323.     See  Siam. 
Treaty  of  Kanagawa,  125,  126,   133, 

134,  147,  158,  206,  258.    See  Perry. 
Tsuda  Sen,  Mr.,  307. 
Tsuruga,  270. 
Tycoon,  19,  27,  179,  211. 
Typhoon,  67,  68,  71,  189,  196. 

Union  Club,  329. 
United  States,  32,  310. 
University  of  Tokio,  205. 
Uy^dono,  206, 210. 

Vaccination,  196. 

Von  Siebold,  27,  30,  235. 

War  with  China,  33,  176. 

Washington,  290. 

Weasel,  72. 

W6i-Hai-we"i,  344. 

Wetmore,  Hon.  Prosper  M.,  177,  326. 

Whales,  2,  165. 

Whitman,  Mr.  C.  O.,  195. 

Williams,  Dr.  S.  Wells,  36,  40,  258. 


INDEX. 


351 


Wood,  Surgeon  W.  M.,  22,  26,  30,  48, 
53. 

Yalu  River,  33. 
Tamabushi,  74,  75. 
Yamagata,  Count,  310. 


Yedo,  2,   66,  118,  201-206,  243,  249, 

268,  274. 
Yokohama,  197,  322,  324. 
Yokosuka,  33. 

Yoritomo,  118,  179,  193,  281. 
Yoshihito,  342. 


BOOKS  ON  THE  FAR  EAST. 


Glimpses  of  Unfamiliar  Japan. 

By  Lafcadio  Hearn.     Third  Edition.    2  vols.  8vo,  gilt  top, 

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It  is,  without  doubt,  the  most  delightful  book  of  its  kind.  None  of  the 
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Out  of  the  East. 

By  Lafcadio  Hearn.     i  vol.  i6mo,  gilt  top,  $1.25. 

Contents:  The  Dream  of  a  Summer  Day;  With  Kyushu  Students;  At 
Hakata ;  Of  the  Eternal  Feminine ;  Bits  of  Life  and  Death ;  The  Stone 
Buddha;  Jujutsu ;  The  Red  Bridal;  A  Wish  Fulfilled;  In  Yokohama; 
Yuko:  a  Reminiscence. 

This  book  is  not  so  full  a  presentation  of  Japanese  life  and  thought  as  Mr. 
Hearn's  previous  work,  but  is  marked  by  the  same  remarkable  familiarity 
•with  them  and  by  the  same  marvelous  charm  of  style. 

Occult  Japan:  The  Way  of  the  Gods. 

By  Percival  Lowell.     With  4  Illustrations.     Crown  8vo, 

gilt  top,  $1.75. 

Mr.  Lowell's  book  illuminates  Japanese  character  and  explains  Japanese 
action,  not.  indeed,  better  than  Mr.  Hearn's  "Unfamiliar  Japan,"  for  that 
•would  be  impossible,  but  differently,  from  a  different  point  of  view,  and  quite 
as  well.  —  New  York  Times. 

Noto  :  An  Unexplored  Corner  of  Japan. 

By  Percival  Lowell.     i6mo,  gilt  top,  $1.25. 

He  contrives  to  make  the  most  ordinary  incidents  delightful.  We  can  rec- 
ommend the  volume  in  the  most  unhesitating  manner  to  all  readers  who  like 
good  things  of  this  class.  —  The  Athenceum  (London). 

The  Soul  of  the  Far  East. 

By  Percival  Lowell.     i6mo,  gilt  top,  $1.25. 

An  original  and  fascinating  contribution  to  our  knowledge  of  the  extreme 
Orient.  —  The  Nation. 

Choson :  The  Land  of  the  Morning  Calm. 

A  Sketch  of  Korea.      By  Percival  Lowell.      Splendidly 

illustrated  from  Photographs  by  the  Author.      4to,  gilt  top, 

$5.00;  half  calf,  $9.00;  tree  calf,  $12.00. 

New  Library  Edition.    With  many  of  the  above  Illustrations. 

8vo,  gilt  top,  $3.00 ;  half  calf,  $6.00. 

A  great  deal  more  than  a  mere  narrative  of  residence  in  Korea.  It  goes 
to  the  bottom  of  the  whole  question  of  the  main  characteristics  of  the  three  far- 
Eastern  nations,  China,  Japan,  and  Korea,  mixing  philosophical  views,  new 
information,  personal  recollections,  and  witty  remarks,  in  such  fashion  as  to 
conciliate  the  tastes  of  all  classes  of  readers.  .  .  .  The  extreme  beauty  of  the 
illustrations." —  Japan  Gazette  (Yokohama). 

Japanese  Girls  and  Women. 

By  Alice  M.  Bacon.     i6mo,  $1.25. 


A  Japanese  Interior. 

By  Alice  M.  Bacon.     i6mo,  $1.25. 

Miss  Bacon's  opportunities  were  unequaled,  and  she  has  used  them  to  a 
result  calling  for  the  highest  praise.  .  .  .  We  have  no  space  to  follow  Miss 
Bacon  in  her  charming  description  and  stories  of  upper-class  Japanese  life, 
which  she  has  seen  so  weil.  We  can  only  say  how  charming  they  are.  —  Pall 
Mall  Gazette. 

Japan  :  In  History,  Folk-Lore,  and  Art. 

By  William  Elliot  Griffis,  D.  D.     i6mo,  75  cents. 

His  opportunities  for  gaining  knowledge  were  exceptionally  good,  for  he 
was  upon  the  ground  before  old  Japan  had  retired  from  the  stage,  and  he  saw 
much  of  the  struggle  between  the  old  order  of  things  and  the  new.  —  Boston 
Transcript. 

An  American  Missionary  in  Japan. 

By  Rev.  Dr.  M.  L.  Gordon.     i6mo,  $1.25. 

With  a  directness,  frankness,  and  clearness  that  charm,  Dr.  Gordon  tells 
the  story  of  his  twenty  years'  experience  as  missionary,  evangelist,  helper, 
servant,  and  friend  of  the  Japanese.  There  are  no  "  natives  "  or  "  heathen  " 
in  his  lexicon.  His  book  is  sure  to  be  widely  read.  —  New  York  Evening 
Post. 

Joseph  Hardy  Neesima.' 

A  deeply  interesting  account  of  this  most  famous  Japanese 
of  modern  times.  By  Arthur  Sherburne  Hardy,  author 
of  "  But  Yet  a  Woman,"  etc.  With  portraits  of  Mr.  Neesima 
and  Hon.  Alpheus  Hardy.  Crown  8vo,  $2.00. 
The  biographies  of  great  and  good  men  are  the  best  kind  of  reading, 
and  this  is  one  of  the  best  of  its  kind.  —  New  York  Observer. 

A  Glimpse  at  the  Art  of  Japan. 

By  James  Jackson  Jarves.  Illustrated  from  Japanese  de- 
signs.    i2mo,  $2.50. 

This  is  the  best  book  yet  printed  on  the  subject.  —  Mr.  Natalie,  sub- 
Librarian  of  Windsor  Castle. 

A  Muramasa  Blade. 

A  Story  of  Feudalism  in  Old  Japan.  By  Louis  Wer- 
theimber.  With  a  great  number  of  curious  Illustrations 
by  Japanese  artists.  Royal  8vo,  gilt  top,  $3.00;  red  Kioto 
silk  brocade,  $5.00. 

The  Pictorial  Arts  of  Japan. 

By  William  Anderson,  late  of  the  British  Legation  in 
Japan.  Illustrated  with  eighty  Plates,  executed  by  Chromo- 
lithography,  Photogravure,  and  Native  Engravings  on  Wood 
and  Copper,  and  a  large  number  of  Woodcuts,  etc.,  printed 
in  the  body  of  the  work.  With  general  and  descriptive  Text. 
Edition  limited  to  1,000  copies.  In  four  sections,  each  in 
portfolio  (measuring  12  X  19  inches).  The  set,  $50.00,  net. 
{Sold  by  Subscription!) 

HOUGHTON,  MIFFLIN  &  CO.,  Boston. 
11  East  17TH  Street,  New  York. 


NEW  BIOGRAPHIES. 

John  Greenleaf  Whittier. 

Life  and  Letters.     By  Samuel  T.  Pickard.     With  seven  portraits 

and  views.     Second  edition.     2  vols,  crown  8vo,  gilt  top,  $4. 00. 
A  model  of  biography  and  of  careful  editing  of  the  papers  left  by  the  greatest  of 
New  England  poets,  the  poet  who  far  beyond  any  other  interpreted  the  New  Eng- 
land thought,  life,  and  conscience  of  his  time.  —  Boston  Advertiser. 

George  William  Curtis. 

By  Edward  Cary.    With  a  portrait.     Third  edition.     i6mo,$i.25. 

Mr.  Curtis,  as  traveler,  author,  lecturer,  editor,  and  reformer,  filled  most  honor- 
ably a  conspicuous  place  in  the  history  of  the  closing  century.  His  biographer  has 
performed  his  task  excellently.  —  The  Congregationalist  (Boston). 

Lucy  Larcom. 

Life,  Letters,  and  Diary.  By  the  Rev.  Daniel  D.  Addison. 
With  fine  new  portrait.     Third  edition.     i6mo,  $1.25. 

The  book  is  deeply  interesting,  and  her  correspondence  with  Whittier,  Holmes, 
Longfellow,  Phillips  Brooks,  and  other  eminent  persons,  is  delightful  reading.  — 
Portland  Press. 

Familiar  Letters  of  Thoreau. 

Edited,  with  an  Introduction  and  Notes,  by  Frank  B.  Sanborn. 

With  a  full  index.     Second  edition.     Crown  8vo,  gilt  top,  $1.50. 
This  volume  is  an  admirable  supplement  to  the  complete  edition  of  Thoreau  *s 
writings.  ...  As  an  addition  to  his  biography,  this  work  is  a  revelation  which  all 
his  friends  will  greatly  prize.  —  The  Oiitlook  (New  York). 

Frances  Power  Cobbe. 

Her  Autobiography.  With  a  portrait  and  a  picture  of  her  home. 
Second  edition.     2  vols,  crown  8vo,  gilt  top,  $4.00. 

It  is  distinctly  charming  as  it  is  exceptional  to  come  upon  a  writer  who  has  lived  a 
long  life,  and  joyfully  acknowledges  that  it  has  been  a  happy  one.  —  London  Tele- 
graph. 

Maria  Edgeworth. 

Life  and  Letters.     By  A.  J.  C.  Hare.     With  a  portrait  and  view 

of  her  home.     2  vols,  crown  8vo,  gilt  top,  $4.00. 
Merely  to  read  her  letters  is  to  tidy  up  one's  mind.  —  London  Speaker. 

Pushing  to  the  Front, 

Or,  Success   Under   Difficulties.     By  Orison    Swett   Marden. 
With  24  excellent  portraits  of  Famous  Persons.     Fifth  thousand. 
Crown  8vo,  $1.50. 
We  wish  it  might  be  placed  in  every  library,  every  school,  and  every  home  in  the 
land.     It  must  arouse  in  every  one  who  reads  it  aspirations  for  a  better,  more  suc- 
cessful, more  useful  life.  —Home  Journal  (New  York). 

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